Front DANA 60 axle swap

JK's JK · Nov 27, 2013

Hi Guys,

I'm looking into changing out the front stock Dana 44 to a Dana 60. I've seen on shows people swaping front and back axles on all different types of vehicles and trying to narrow down what people, if anyone, are using to swap out the front axle. I know you can buy a brand new spanken axle from Prorock but I would think a swap from a junk yard would be a cheaper way to go. If this is due able, what is the desired front axle of choice that can be used?

OverlanderJK · Nov 27, 2013

Do a search on here. You will fid people who have done the junkyard swaps that said they wish they would have just bought new. It's not as cheap as you think.

hinrichs · Nov 27, 2013

OverlanderJK said:
Do a search on here. You will fid people who have done the junkyard swaps that said they wish they would have just bought new. It's not as cheap as you think.

x2 on this, it come out usually to right around the same price or more to go with a used one since junkyards know which ones you would need and what are worth the money. I think one article said if you can do all the work yourself it can be done kinda cheap, but upgrades and other things make the good deal go away fast.

JK's JK · Nov 27, 2013

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?10303-Junkyard-axle-swap&highlight=dana+junk+yard

This is what I found about the topic that has already been brought up.

Junk yard axle swaps are not easy. They also are not cheap. Just in the front Dana 60 Ihave:
Junk yard axle: $800
Gears n such 300
Machine knuckle and add high steer arm $350
Locker $600
New ball joints $200
Custom tie rod $200
New break pads and turn rotors $100
Brackets $500
Have the front unit bearings milled for 35 spline axles $200
35 spline outer stub shafts$ 300
Drive flanges or warn hubs $250

About $3800 in parts and 40 or so hours of labor. I may have left something out but thats close. It's amazing all of the little problems you run into. Just having to move the frame side track bar forward 1.5 inches is a real pain when you have already spent 35 hours working, cutting, grinding and welding. If you are not capable of doing it yourself I'm sure a shop would charge 80 bucks an hour it might only take them 30 hours but that's another 2400 bucks. Look for a rubicon take off axle and save some $$$ not to mention you can do the swap in your garage in about 3 hours.

Oh did I mention I also had to buy new wheels....

Army_Vet · Nov 28, 2013

JK's JK said:
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?10303-Junkyard-axle-swap&highlight=dana+junk+yard

This is what I found about the topic that has already been brought up.

Junk yard axle swaps are not easy. They also are not cheap. Just in the front Dana 60 Ihave:
Junk yard axle: $800
Gears n such 300
Machine knuckle and add high steer arm $350
Locker $600
New ball joints $200
Custom tie rod $200
New break pads and turn rotors $100
Brackets $500
Have the front unit bearings milled for 35 spline axles $200
35 spline outer stub shafts$ 300
Drive flanges or warn hubs $250

About $3800 in parts and 40 or so hours of labor. I may have left something out but thats close. It's amazing all of the little problems you run into. Just having to move the frame side track bar forward 1.5 inches is a real pain when you have already spent 35 hours working, cutting, grinding and welding. If you are not capable of doing it yourself I'm sure a shop would charge 80 bucks an hour it might only take them 30 hours but that's another 2400 bucks. Look for a rubicon take off axle and save some $$$ not to mention you can do the swap in your garage in about 3 hours.

Oh did I mention I also had to buy new wheels....

I don't think its fair to add wear items. Or options like a locker. I think only things like price for the unit, and whatever was needed to bolt it in.
If you bought new hubs cause you wanted them. Or new stub shafts cause old ones were worn out. In my opinion that is not an accurate representation of a swap price.

Sent from my XT907 using WAYALIFE mobile app

OverlanderJK · Nov 28, 2013

Army_Vet said:
I don't think its fair to add wear items. Or options like a locker. I think only things like price for the unit, and whatever was needed to bolt it in.
If you bought new hubs cause you wanted them. Or new stub shafts cause old ones were worn out. In my opinion that is not an accurate representation of a swap price.

Sent from my XT907 using WAYALIFE mobile app

But it is very accurate when comparing it to a we axle. Sure you can swap in a 60 for the cost of it but it doesn't mean it'll be safe to drive around on.

Hinrich and myself were comparing apples to apples. You are not. Your not going to buy a brand new axle and put used shafts or hubs or gears in it are you? Nope.

JK's JK · Nov 28, 2013

Army_Vet said:
I don't think its fair to add wear items. Or options like a locker. I think only things like price for the unit, and whatever was needed to bolt it in.
If you bought new hubs cause you wanted them. Or new stub shafts cause old ones were worn out. In my opinion that is not an accurate representation of a swap price.

Sent from my XT907 using WAYALIFE mobile app

I would assume this would be the list that would be needed

-axle - 800
-new brackets - 400
-locker - 1150
-compressor - 170
-gears - 250
-pinion yoke - 100
-35 spline shafts - 2250 (RCV)
-seal - 50
-ball joints - 300
-knuckles - 700
-brakes - 200
-rotors - 200
-brake lines - 100
-labor - ??? say 2000

=$8,400 (I dont think it's worth it after looking at the numbers!!!)

I would be replacing all the parts in the axle with all new stuff

A new prorock 60 is between 8k - 10.5k

bl17z90 · Nov 28, 2013

You could get a pro rock 44, which is a good option if you don't plan on running larger than 37's. These only cost around 4500

Sent from my phone?

hinrichs · Nov 28, 2013

What about a hybrid 44/60 or however those are built

And the last item...labor is the big one in used axles unless you could find a used prorock 60

JK's JK · Nov 28, 2013

bl17z90 said:
You could get a pro rock 44, which is a good option if you don't plan on running larger than 37's. These only cost around 4500

Sent from my phone?

I want to eventually go to 40".

hinrichs said:
What about a hybrid 44/60 or however those are built

And the last item...labor is the big one in used axles unless you could find a used prorock 60

I haven't looked at one of those.

Army_Vet · Nov 28, 2013

OverlanderJK said:
But it is very accurate when comparing it to a we axle. Sure you can swap in a 60 for the cost of it but it doesn't mean it'll be safe to drive around on.

Hinrich and myself were comparing apples to apples. You are not. You're not going to buy a brand new axle and put used shafts or hubs or gears in it are you? Nope.

Your not understanding me, Can you buy a new pro rock 60 without a locker. Anddddddddd! does the cost of a new pro rock 60 include the gears you want?

So saying a swap cost XXXXX amount because you will need a locker, and new gear set is incorrect. You want a locker because its a good upgrade, and if you can't find a used 60 with your ratio then you need to change them.

What im also saying is, brake pads are wear items, the price of those should not be included. Neither should an air compressor.

bl17z90 · Nov 28, 2013

JK's JK said:
I want to eventually go to 40".

I haven't looked at one of those.

You can run 40's on a 44 if you are carefull but who wants to do that :bleh:

The hybrid 44/60 is a pro rock 44 with the 60 outters i beleive. Its what vengence has up front because the smaller housing allowed for more up travel and ground clearance.

Sent from my phone?

David1tontj · Nov 28, 2013

Army_Vet said:
Your not understanding me, Can you buy a new pro rock 60 without a locker. Anddddddddd! does the cost of a new pro rock 60 include the gears you want?

So saying a swap cost XXXXX amount because you will need a locker, and new gear set is incorrect. You want a locker because its a good upgrade, and if you can't find a used 60 with your ratio then you need to change them.

What im also saying is, brake pads are wear items, the price of those should not be included. Neither should an air compressor.

The 60 that I bought supposedly had 513 gears, and I foolishly trusted the guy.... That was an extra expense I hadn't planned on!! I was pissed!

And why on earth would you want a 60 without a locker??? That's like having a nascar engine with a 2000 rpm rev limiter

05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

StrizzyChris · Nov 28, 2013

Mostly HD trucks used for towing, but agree no D60 without a locker belongs near a Jeep!

Army_Vet · Nov 28, 2013

David1tontj said:
The 60 that I bought supposedly had 513 gears, and I foolishly trusted the guy.... That was an extra expense I hadn't planned on!! I was pissed!

And why on earth would you want a 60 without a locker??? That's like having a nascar engine with a 2000 rpm rev limiter

05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

Both of these points are besides the point...

The point im making is.... Yes it is expensive to do a swap on your own, but certain things should be labeled as optional or wear items. Not well i wanted a locker so you can count on that expense.

OverlanderJK · Nov 28, 2013

Army_Vet said:
Your not understanding me, Can you buy a new pro rock 60 without a locker. Anddddddddd! does the cost of a new pro rock 60 include the gears you want?

So saying a swap cost XXXXX amount because you will need a locker, and new gear set is incorrect. You want a locker because its a good upgrade, and if you can't find a used 60 with your ratio then you need to change them.

What im also saying is, brake pads are wear items, the price of those should not be included. Neither should an air compressor.

And your not understanding me or anyone else in this thread. He is talking about a solid/built axle. Not something he pulls straight out of the junkyard and swaps in. Add up the costs on both and it'll be pretty close to the same.

10frank9 · Nov 28, 2013

OverlanderJK said:
And your not understanding me or anyone else in this thread. He is talking about a solid/built axle. Not something he pulls straight out of the junkyard and swaps in. Add up the costs on both and it'll be pretty close to the same.

I agree with Overlander here.....

David1tontj · Nov 28, 2013

Army_Vet said:
Both of these points are besides the point...

The point im making is.... Yes it is expensive to do a swap on your own, but certain things should be labeled as optional or wear items. Not well i wanted a locker so you can count on that expense.

Ok then.... Most of the "wear items" on a junkyard axle are shot.... Believe me, I thought I could get away with keeping the old ones, and I couldn't... And a new axle would come with new wear items, so I don't see why that doesn't matter..

As for the locker, if you don't want one, you are still paying for an open carrier.. Something has to hold the gears, so why not make it what you want.

05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

Army_Vet · Nov 28, 2013

OverlanderJK said:
And your not understanding me or anyone else in this thread. He is talking about a solid/built axle. Not something he pulls straight out of the junkyard and swaps in. Add up the costs on both and it'll be pretty close to the same.

Yes I am reading everything fine. I am not talking about just bolting up a JY 60... I guess we are at an impasse. But See if you can follow my logic here. And to reiterate; it is simply my opinion on how things should be described.

Here is my logic.

Reading this thread it seems that it would be safe to infer the following;

It makes no sense to buy a jeep from a dealership because you will just have to spend 2k on bumpers, 1k on a winch 4k on tires and wheels 1k on lights 3k on a lift and so on and so on.... so it makes no sense, you should only buy ones that were pro built from "Such and Such"

So anyways, its an extreme example but its just to try and make you see my point.

OverlanderJK · Nov 28, 2013

Army_Vet said:
Yes I am reading everything fine. I am not talking about just bolting up a JY 60... I guess we are at an impasse. But See if you can follow my logic here. And to reiterate; it is simply my opinion on how things should be described.

Here is my logic.

Reading this thread it seems that it would be safe to infer the following;

It makes no sense to buy a jeep from a dealership because you will just have to spend 2k on bumpers, 1k on a winch 4k on tires and wheels 1k on lights 3k on a lift and so on and so on.... so it makes no sense, you should only buy ones that were pro built from "Such and Such"

So anyways, its an extreme example but its just to try and make you see my point.

I understood your point from the beginning. It just doesn't make any sense. And considering everyone else in this thread is agreeing ill stick with that.

Front DANA 60 axle swap

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