Lockers - What did you go with and why?

redpatchjeff

redpatchjeff

New member
NON-Rubi guys - I've been looking at locker options for my JK.

On my last TJ, I had an aussie locker up front and a detroit locker in the rear - while they worked phenomenally, I hated that they weren't selectable.

What's your opinion? ARB, OX, or Eaton? Pros and cons of each would be great.

Thanks in advance! :beer:
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
i went with ARB because it is a proven locker

Pro's- proven time and time again so worth every $, easily hook right up to existing air compressor via manifold kit, selectable like mentioned.
Con- price because of how proven they are.
 
1BAMFR

1BAMFR

New member
Auburn Ected in the rear
Eaton in the front

Both electronic lockers...Both work awesome!
They engage instantly and disengage instantly

Never have had an issue...I run the switches on my pillar for easy access.

This is what I run and it's a proven set-up.
 
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dhughes

dhughes

Banned
I'm a Rubicon guy but the rear locker broke. I went with the ox locker. I did the short cable with the electric actuator. The like the idea that if the actuator or cable breaks I can use the manual screw in tool I got for around 30.00 and I still can use the locker.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 
NFRs2000NYC

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
I don't want to create a new thread for this question, but is it possible to replace a factory locker with a quality aftermarket ELECTRONIC locker AND use the OEM switchgear to active them?
 
Tcdawg

Tcdawg

New member
NFRs2000NYC said:
I don't want to create a new thread for this question, but is it possible to replace a factory locker with a quality aftermarket ELECTRONIC locker AND use the OEM switchgear to active them?
Click to expand...

Edit: scratch that, didn't read a previous reply
 
1BAMFR

1BAMFR

New member
NFRs2000NYC said:
I don't want to create a new thread for this question, but is it possible to replace a factory locker with a quality aftermarket ELECTRONIC locker AND use the OEM switchgear to active them?
Click to expand...

Thats a really good question...What do the Rubi's come with from the factory?
 
suicideking

suicideking

New member
I wanted 35's and lockers. I have a Sport and ended up doing an axle swap for a Rubi D44 up front frist, then ARB rear about a year later.

Now that I have the ARB in the rear, I want one up front. The most noticeable difference between the ARB and factory Rubi locker is that the ARB locks and unlocks instantly. The Rubi front, you have to turn it on, roll a little bit. Then the same when you turn it off, takes a few feet to disengage. This sucks if you need to turn it off to steer.

If I had to do it over again, I might lock the rear with an ARB, slap on the 35's, then save up for an aftermarket front Axle with ARB.

My second choice would be Eaton. They're not as strong as the ARB, but it's nice that they turn on and off with a button. The ARB needs an air source. So if you want OBA, the Eaton and ARB end up being about the same price.

For the D30, don't waste money with an expensive locker. I'd say lock the rear and either do a cheap locker up front, or start saving for an axle swap.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
suicideking said:
If I had to do it over again, I might lock the rear with an ARB, slap on the 35's, then save up for an aftermarket front Axle with ARB.

For the D30, don't waste money with an expensive locker. I'd say lock the rear and either do a cheap locker up front, or start saving for an axle swap.
Click to expand...

thats what i did. i locked my rear with an ARB and left my front d30 open for when i (hopefully) have enough for a PR44
 
redpatchjeff

redpatchjeff

New member
I know the old saying about polishing a turd - but is the JK D30 really that bad if you sleeve and gusset it? I mean, I'm not going to be running anything bigger than a 37"...
 
A

Army_Vet

Banned
redpatchjeff said:
I know the old saying about polishing a turd - but is the JK D30 really that bad if you sleeve and gusset it? I mean, I'm not going to be running anything bigger than a 37"...
Click to expand...

Once you make the outside bomb proof... you still have the week innereds... and there is no room to beef them up...
 
David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
^you can beef up the shafts too, but ultimately the r&p is the weak point... The teeth get too small and the pinion gets tiny with lower ratios..

It really depends on what kind of wheeling you do and how low Of a gear ratio you need... Lower than 4:88 (numerically higher) on a dana 30 is not good, and hard or fast wheeling is not good either..

It really is best to save your money for a swap because 37s are just too much for that little axle.. It can be done, but it's just a matter of time before it takes a crap on you.. You could go really easy on it and maybe surprise everyone by how long you can make it last, but you just need to be ready to deal with a broken axle in the middle of nowhere..

There was a guy on here running 40s on his dana 30, but he is in the process of building up a 44.. So it "can be done" but it REALLY should not be done.. Good luck whichever way you go!


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
redpatchjeff

redpatchjeff

New member
David1tontj said:
^you can beef up the shafts too, but ultimately the r&p is the weak point... The teeth get too small and the pinion gets tiny with lower ratios..

It really depends on what kind of wheeling you do and how low Of a gear ratio you need... Lower than 4:88 (numerically higher) on a dana 30 is not good, and hard or fast wheeling is not good either..

It really is best to save your money for a swap because 37s are just too much for that little axle.. It can be done, but it's just a matter of time before it takes a crap on you.. You could go really easy on it and maybe surprise everyone by how long you can make it last, but you just need to be ready to deal with a broken axle in the middle of nowhere..

There was a guy on here running 40s on his dana 30, but he is in the process of building up a 44.. So it "can be done" but it REALLY should not be done.. Good luck whichever way you go!


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
Click to expand...

in my TJ, I had an aussie locked 30 with 4.88 gears and never had an issue, other than breaking axle shafts - but I used to just keep a bunch of junkyard shafts around - I got pretty good at replacing them :cheesy:

now if someone wants to gift me a PR44, I'm all for it! Until then, I'll just have to take my chances. It's definitely on my list, but way down there - too many other things to do first.
 
N

nbruno

New member
NFRs2000NYC said:
I don't want to create a new thread for this question, but is it possible to replace a factory locker with a quality aftermarket ELECTRONIC locker AND use the OEM switchgear to active them?
Click to expand...

The jk factory locker is electronic, it is activated by grounding out the solenoid. I'm not sure any other locker is activated in this manner as well, the one switch controls both lockers and the rear has to be activated for the front to activate. Meaning you cannot use just the front locked without a minor mod.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
suicideking

suicideking

New member
redpatchjeff said:
I know the old saying about polishing a turd - but is the JK D30 really that bad if you sleeve and gusset it? I mean, I'm not going to be running anything bigger than a 37"...
Click to expand...

Even running 35's on a D30 is pushing it a bit. With 37's, if you wheel it hard, something will break eventually. Depending on your area though, might not be that hard to find a used D30. I sold mine to someone who broke his. I think it went for around $400.
 
David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
redpatchjeff said:
in my TJ, I had an aussie locked 30 with 4.88 gears and never had an issue, other than breaking axle shafts - but I used to just keep a bunch of junkyard shafts around - I got pretty good at replacing them :cheesy:

now if someone wants to gift me a PR44, I'm all for it! Until then, I'll just ?have to take my chances. It's definitely on my list, but way down there - too many other things to do first.
Click to expand...

What size tires were you running? 4:88s should keep the weak spot in the shaft.. What I was saying was that that weak spot moves to the ring and pinion when you move up to 5:13s or 5:38s.. I hear ya with the axle donations! Sometimes you gotta just wheel what you got! It sounds like you know your way around an axle, so I would think you can make a good decision on what's best for your situation.. As long as you're not in denial about it having weaknesses, then you should be alright


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
rcdude3

rcdude3

New member
My X is an 08' so it came from the factory with a Rubi axle so I had the factory rear locker but an open D30 up front. I ran this set up for 3 years. When I went to 37's I re-geared my rear 44 and removed my front DS so I could drive the Jeep still. Then I finally saved up enough for a PR44 which I ordered with an ARB and gears to match the rear from NR4x4. Then I got a few more pennies and sold the rear Rubi locker and got a ARB in the rear. I'm also running the ARB mini compressor, but now I wish I would of gone with the normal sized ARB compressor. I'm happy with my purchases of the ARB's though. :thumb:
 
redpatchjeff

redpatchjeff

New member
David1tontj said:
What size tires were you running? 4:88s should keep the weak spot in the shaft.. What I was saying was that that weak spot moves to the ring and pinion when you move up to 5:13s or 5:38s.. I hear ya with the axle donations! Sometimes you gotta just wheel what you got! It sounds like you know your way around an axle, so I would think you can make a good decision on what's best for your situation.. As long as you're not in denial about it having weaknesses, then you should be alright


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say I know my way around an axle, I just figured running 4.88's as opposed to 5.13s is a smarter move with 35"s since it does keep the weak spot in the shaft. It's much easier and cheaper to replace a shaft than a R&P - not to mention I don't know how to set R&P gears (side note - if anyone in the CHI area does, and can assist, I'd be more than willing to throw a couple bucks your way....).

My jeep is stock - just bought this one -but I am getting ready to start my build. I'm just getting opinions about which lockers in general people are using - I know the d30 isn't the greatest axle on the market - but when I was in the market for a new (to me) jeep, rubicons were just out of my price range. So, I figure I can build it up and make the d30 sturdy enough to wheel somewhat hard until I can afford to upgrade to a rubi d44 or a PR44.

I appreciate all of the input, guys!
 
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