If I swapped my D30 for a JK Rubi 44, What would I need to get the E-locker to Work

jorgelrod

Hooked
I know that the E-lockers on the rubi are connected to the computer to determine if you're on 4LO and how fast you're going. A Pro Rock or a Teraflex are not really an option as Shipping to Puerto Rico puts them WAY OUT of my price range for a while so looking for a Junkyard Rubi 44 is a possibility. I know there is an ARB Locker option for it but, if I want it to keep my costs down and in all truth I don't see myself going beyond 33"s in the foreseeable future. What Would I need to do to get that locker working in my Sport.

Thanks in advance for the replies,


Jorge
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
All you would need to do is get the wiring harness and the factory switch panel and you should be able to plug both in and just get it to work.
 

jorgelrod

Hooked
All you would need to do is get the wiring harness and the factory switch panel and you should be able to plug both in and just get it to work.

So there is no connection via the computer then? it would be like any run of the mill selectable locker? I would then be able to use it as I see fit wether 4HI or LO?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
So there is no connection via the computer then? it would be like any run of the mill selectable locker? I would then be able to use it as I see fit wether 4HI or LO?

The wiring harness you need to get from the dealership will plug into your TIPM/PCM. If I recall, you will need to have your dealership flash your computer to make it work. I can't recall for sure but, there may be some issues if you don't have a rear e-locker as you need to have it engaged before you can make the front work.
 

Holeshot

Banned
The wiring harness you need to get from the dealership will plug into your TIPM/PCM. If I recall, you will need to have your dealership flash your computer to make it work. I can't recall for sure but, there may be some issues if you don't have a rear e-locker as you need to have it engaged before you can make the front work.

this is interresting! didn't know we could do that.

In my case, I made my own harness with switches in the dash. Visit this thread, could give you low cost ideas.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?...Locker-Wiring&highlight=rubicon+locker+wiring
 

jorgelrod

Hooked
Thanks a lot guys for all the great responses, I plan to see if I can get a front 44, the rear 44 on the sport gives me a lot of options and I am looking at a Detroit auto locker for the rear. I'll keep everyone updated on what I find.
 
So if I get the wiring harness and the rubicon switch it's a straight plug and play? Re flash possibly?

I have a 2013 sport, swapping in rubicon axles.

This would be an easy thing to do if think
 

Alex909

New member
I did the front rubi 44 swap on my 2012. I bought an AEV procal to program the new gear ratio. 2012+ will go into limp mode.
 
I did the front rubi 44 swap on my 2012. I bought an AEV procal to program the new gear ratio. 2012+ will go into limp mode.

I should have been more clear... I have a 2013 sport with 6 speed manual transmission I have a procal to calibrate the new gear ratio. Manuals don't go into limp mode

I want to know if I use a harness and rubicon switch. Does the harness plug into the TIPM and work just like it is a Rubicon. Or does a re flash work? Or is it not possible ? If it's not possible I'll just buy an sPod. But I'd really prefer the factory look
 

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
Is this upgrade worth it? Would 37s on a Dana 44 with 5.13 gears be to much?

I am in the process of upgrading to 37" Nittos and plan on regearing to 5.13s. My axles are stock 2014 Rubi axles with the exception of EVO C Gussets on the front axle.

I have done quite a bit of reading and 5.13s with 37s seem to be the sweet spot for the D44s. 5.38s are just a bit too short and the performance gain isn't worth the strength sacrifice.

As Frank mentioned, all of this is objective. I personally think it's worth it until the time presents itself to upgrade to a ProRock.
 

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
To get it to work you just need to make a wire harness. Switch, relay, plug. Not to hard to do. I believe mopar actually sells the wiring if you don't want to do it yourself. Don't remember the part number though.

My friend that bought my Rubi axles made his and I helped wire up the jeep Wasn't to bad at all.

Sent from my Samsung S5 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

KingCopperhead

New member
I used mopar's wiring harness for upgrading a sport to a rubi axle. Part number P5155359

Can be found online for around 40 dollars. (jeep dealership has it also but it'll be more expensive.

This part differs from the factory Rubicon wiring harness. It is very simple. One end plugs into the factory axle housing. The other end is open and you can use your own connectors to hook it to a switch setup of your choice. Also comes with the wire loom to keep the wires protected which is nice.
 
To get it to work you just need to make a wire harness. Switch, relay, plug. Not to hard to do. I believe mopar actually sells the wiring if you don't want to do it yourself. Don't remember the part number though.

My friend that bought my Rubi axles made his and I helped wire up the jeep Wasn't to bad at all.

Sent from my Samsung S5 using WAYALIFE mobile app

I used mopar's wiring harness for upgrading a sport to a rubi axle. Part number P5155359

Can be found online for around 40 dollars. (jeep dealership has it also but it'll be more expensive.

This part differs from the factory Rubicon wiring harness. It is very simple. One end plugs into the factory axle housing. The other end is open and you can use your own connectors to hook it to a switch setup of your choice. Also comes with the wire loom to keep the wires protected which is nice.

Thanks for the help guys... I do appreciate your input, and I'm aware that I can use the harness to hook into any switch. That's not my question though...

My question IS, can I get the Jeep harness from the dealer, and the Rubicon E-disco/Locker switch from the dealer and PLUG IT IN. and Work?

I'm going for a factory look. I.E the Rubicon switch, not a sPod or daystar switch. I'd really like to do it this way if possible, otherwise wiring to a switch is easy enough... but I really want the factory setup. Call me crazy.... but that's what I'd like to do.

Thanks!!!!
 
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