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NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 04:41 AM
Hey guys, I haven't seen a thread like this here, so I would like to post it up...if the higher powers find it useful enough, I think it should be a sticky, as a very innocent move can cause HAVOC on your entire cooling system/motor.....THIS IS BECOMING A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND WILL ONLY GET WORSE...DEALERS DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING AND ARE JUST DUMPING IN WHATEVER COOLANT IS ON-HAND.

Ok, first thing is first...there are two types of coolants used on the JK....HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology,) and OAT (Organic Additive Technology.)

The first thing you need to tattoo in your brain is this.....THESE TWO COOLANTS DO NOT MIX, AND A CHEMICAL REACTION WILL CAUSE IT TO GEL (more on this later.)

JK's 2012 and down use HOAT coolant and 2013+ use OAT coolant. DO NOT COUNT ON THE DEALER KNOWING WHICH COOLANT YOUR RIG TAKES. CHANCES ARE THEY WILL PUT IN THE WRONG ONE, SO IF GETTING SERVICE, MAKE CERTAIN THE CORRECT COOLANT IS USED!

How to tell the difference...For whatever reason, chrysler doesnt label them as HOAT/OAT so you need to know the signs to make sure you are getting the correct one....

60695

The first thing you are going to notice is the color....OAT (13+) is purple and HOAT (12-) is orange. The second thing you'll notice is that the HOAT coolant is rated for 5 years and 100K miles while the OAT is rated at 10 years 150K miles. The third thing you need to know is that the cap on the OAT is black while the cap on the HOAT is blue.

UPDATE, CURRENTLY, BOTH BOTTLES NOW USE BLACK CAPS, SO DO NOT RELY ON THIS BEING AN INDICATOR. I LEFT THE ABOVE IN IN CASE SOMEONE GETS A LEFTOVER BOTTLE FROM A THIRD PARTY

The fourth thing you will know (not from the pic) is that OAT is priced like gold. It is $50-$60 a gallon (yes you read that right) so unless you have an emergency, buy it online, where it goes from $29 a gallon or so. If you go to the dealer to buy OAT, and the price is too cheap, they gave you the wrong one.

A little background on the color so that the next part makes sense to you guys....As we know, FIAT is with Chrysler now. Fiat has been using orange colored OAT for years. When Chrysler switched to OAT, they didn't want dealers/people getting confused, so to differentiate the new OAT coolant with the chrysler original orange HOAT, they added a purple dye. As a result, due to a weird light refraction, the purple OAT looks weird (even orange) when looked at certain angles. You can even pop open your radiator cap on your 14 and the coolant looks so orange you'd bet me your jeep that it's orange....but it isn't.

You saw the pic above, now compare it to this pic....(same purple OAT)
60704

Don't believe me yet? Check this out...open the overflow bottle, and you might see this....
60707

Orange? You would definitely bet me your PR44 that it's orange right?

Now lets take a pic by moving the lightsource and changing the angle....
60709

Still think it's orange? ;)

The reason why it looks orange isn't too complicated...the actual coolant is Fiat's orange OAT with chrysler's added purple dye. When it is put into a container that isn't see-through or well lit, the sheen from the original orange coolant comes through which is why it looks orange on the surface. If you
suck a little out using a turkey baster, you will quickly see that it's purple. Think of it as a VERY ANNOYING optical illusion.

Now, why you should care....mixing the two yields to catastrophic results...if you catch it early enough, you may be able to squeak by with a quick and painful flush...however, if you run it for a little while (a month+) you can completely destroy your system by completely clogging it up.

This is what happens when you mix glycol based coolant (HOAT, 99% of coolant in stores, etc) with OAT....

60711

The part number for OAT is 68163849AA (http://amzn.to/2CQwOnl)

Here is a TSB from Chrysler:


TSB - 07-004-12 REV. A
SUBJECT:
Attention! Release Of New Engine Coolant Organic Additive Technology (OAT)
MODELS:
2013 (D2) Ram Truck (3500 Pick Up)
2013 (DD) Ram Truck (3500 Chassis Cab)
2013 (DJ) Ram Truck (2500 Pick Up)
2013 (DP) Ram Truck (4500 / 5500 Chassis Cab)
2013 (DX) Ram Truck (Mexico)
2013 (DS) Ram Truck (1500)
2013 (FF) Fiat 500
2013 (JC) Journey
2013 (JK) Wrangler
2013 (JS) Avenger/200
2013 (LC) Challenger
2013 (LD) Charger
2013 (LX) 300
2013 (MK) Compass/Patriot
2013 (PF) Dart
2013 (RT) Town & Country/Grand Caravan
2013 (WD) Durango
2013 (WK) Grand Cherokee
2013 (ZD) Viper
NOTE: This bulletins applies to all vehicle listed above for every engine application
EXCEPT the 2013 MK equipped with the 2.2L Diesel engine (sales code ENE)
and the JC vehicle equipped with the 2.0L Diesel engine (sales code EBT).
NUMBER:
07-004-12 REV. A

GROUP:
Cooling

DATE:
November 03, 2012

DISCUSSION:
Chrysler Corporation LLC. has released a new engine coolant for the 2013 model year
vehicles and beyond, for all engine applications except the ones listed in the note above.
This new coolant is an Organic Additive Technology (OAT) (
Fig. 1). OAT coolants have a
service interval of 10 years or 150,000 miles. For heavy duty truck and extreme duty cycle
applications refer to the Service Information or Owner's Manual for proper maintenance
schedules.

CAUTION: Vehicle Damage may occur if dissimilar coolants are mixed!
Coolants of different technologies are not compatible nor interchangeable (OAT, HOAT or
IAT).
Mixing these coolants could result in:
• accelerated corrosion within the engine and cooling systems.
• the coolant having an ammonia smell.
• debris (particles) floating in the coolant.
Further inspection by the technician may find corrosion in the system. This could show up
as aluminum pipes turning black in the coolant system, engine overheat, or leaks in the
coolant system.
NOTE: If OAT (MOPAR P/N 68163848AA Purple) has been Mixed with HOAT (MOPAR
P/N 68048953AB Pink Or Factory Fill HOAT Orange (
Fig. 2) or (Fig. 3)) or any
other coolants have been mixed, it will be necessary to flush the cooling

system.

To sum up....

If you own a 2012 and DOWN...you can run Chrysler HOAT coolant or any other Chrysler approved HOAT. There aren't many on the market, and the price is basically the same as chrysler's, so for warranty sake, run the OEM stuff. You need to make sure that if you buy from the dealer, you are getting HOAT coolant (blue cap, 100K mile, orange, $14 pricetag) and if the dealer is refilling yours for free, make SURE you tell them to use HOAT....OAT is your only kryptonite.

If you own a 2013 and up, you MUST USE Chrysler OAT coolant. If you are out on the trail, and need to top off, use distilled water to limp you home, do NOT use coolant from your buddy's truck, etc. If you are the kind of wheeler that carries spare fluids, carry a bottle of OAT with you. If you absolutely MUST use glycol based coolant, flush it out ASAP as soon as you get back home, and refill with the correct coolant. When at the dealer purchasing, make sure you are walking home with the correct bottle (black cap, purple, 10 year 150K label and expensive) and if they are topping off, inform them that you want to make sure they use OAT coolant.


I hope this post helps some members along the way!

Dave

Army_Vet
12-18-2013, 04:52 AM
Hell ya! this is good info to know! Good Job Dave.

NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 04:54 AM
Hell ya! this is good info to know! Good Job Dave.

Thanks brother! With the constant incompetence I always find at dealerships, this will be a big enough headache (replacing the entire cooling system, warranty claim denial, etc) that people need to be aware of the issue and monitor the situation, especially if someone else is going to touch your rig. :thumb:

Tigrcky
12-18-2013, 05:01 AM
dang good info!! didnt know this glad i do thank you very much for posting this!!! :thumb::beer:

NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 05:08 AM
Here are a few more pics of what happens when HOAT and OAT are mixed (these pics are from a Land Rover Freelander that required OAT, but was mixed with HOAT.)

The Waterpump:

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss215/rover_driver/Land%20Rovers/Repairs/Engine/D90-waterpump.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/user/rover_driver/media/Land%20Rovers/Repairs/Engine/D90-waterpump.jpg.html)

The head:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss215/rover_driver/Land%20Rovers/Repairs/Engine/D90-head.jpg

Reading up on the issue, it seems that mixing the two causes a weird reaction, creating flakes of some sort of a plastiky substance, completely clogging up and destroying everything.

This is on a NIssan (member said this happened in under 5000 miles...ignore the rust, look at those little white balls of crap)
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/Cobrabill/Mechanical%20things/DSC01712.jpg


Anywho, you guys get the point.... :D Don't mix em!

Brankz
12-18-2013, 05:24 AM
What happens if u mix green coolant and the orange hoat one?

Tigrcky
12-18-2013, 05:26 AM
What happens if u mix green coolant and the orange hoat one?

you will either gel up or ruin the seals

Brankz
12-18-2013, 05:28 AM
you will either gel up or ruin the seals

Seals? What do u mean?

BigBoy
12-18-2013, 05:28 AM
Just brought home a 2014 over the weekend. Thank you for this info, it will be very good to know.

Tigrcky
12-18-2013, 05:30 AM
Seals? What do u mean?

ok a lot of these coolants have a special lubricant in them to keep the seals that touch the cooling system nice and firm and supple, you start taking that lubricant away and the rubber type seals harden crack and start leaking, one example is the seals for the bearings for your water pump which could potentially cause it to lock up the pulley

Brankz
12-18-2013, 05:36 AM
From what I understand, the HOAT (orange) coolant is glycol based, which is the same as most coolants on the market. There should be no issues but the way chrysler handles warranties, I would rather play it safe (unless it's an emergency) and buy the mopar coolant. The HOAT coolant isn't expensive, so there's no reason not to run OEM. You can get it for less than $10 a gallon online.

When I changed my water pump they added green coolant, but I still had orange in the reservoir, I flushed the radiator but I don't know if I have gel in my engine. :thinking:

thanks, I feel better when you say It doesn't matter green and orange. :beer:

Btw where can I get it for less than 10 bucks?

10frank9
12-18-2013, 05:37 AM
Great job! Thanks for sharing this information.

NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 05:43 AM
When I changed my water pump they added green coolant, but I still had orange in the reservoir, I flushed the radiator but I don't know if I have gel in my engine. :thinking:

thanks, I feel better when you say It doesn't matter green and orange. :beer:

Btw where can I get it for less than 10 bucks?

I take my previous post back. Chrysler does indeed say not to mix HOAT with the "green stuff."




Coolant recommendations and cautions:
The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water.

Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion.

CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling.

I will edit my posts above to eliminate confusion. If your dealer put in green coolant, I'd go back and demand a flush.

Tigrcky
12-18-2013, 05:50 AM
I take my previous post back. Chrysler does indeed say not to mix HOAT with the "green stuff."



I will edit my posts above to eliminate confusion. If your dealer put in green coolant, I'd go back and demand a flush.

:thumb::thumb::thumb:

aldaman
12-18-2013, 07:14 AM
Great info, thanks for sharing :thumb:

aldaman :beer:

CrazyLarry
12-18-2013, 02:28 PM
Here are a few more pics of what happens when HOAT and OAT are mixed (these pics are from a Land Rover Freelander that required OAT, but was mixed with HOAT.)

The Waterpump:

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss215/rover_driver/Land%20Rovers/Repairs/Engine/D90-waterpump.jpg (http://s577.photobucket.com/user/rover_driver/media/Land%20Rovers/Repairs/Engine/D90-waterpump.jpg.html)

The head:
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss215/rover_driver/Land%20Rovers/Repairs/Engine/D90-head.jpg

Reading up on the issue, it seems that mixing the two causes a weird reaction, creating flakes of some sort of a plastiky substance, completely clogging up and destroying everything.

This is on a NIssan (member said this happened in under 5000 miles...ignore the rust, look at those little white balls of crap)
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/Cobrabill/Mechanical%20things/DSC01712.jpg


Anywho, you guys get the point.... :D Don't mix em!

looks just like the gonorrhea i had last summer

wayoflife
12-18-2013, 03:12 PM
I take my previous post back. Chrysler does indeed say not to mix HOAT with the "green stuff."



I will edit my posts above to eliminate confusion. If your dealer put in green coolant, I'd go back and demand a flush.

Glad you added this as I would not recommend mixing HOAT with old school "green stuff".

Great post - I'll be sure to stick it after it starts to fall from page 1 :yup:

NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 03:18 PM
Glad you added this as I would not recommend mixing HOAT with old school "green stuff".

Great post - I'll be sure to stick it after it starts to fall from page 1 :yup:

Edited all my posts referencing the green stuff, so the info is all correct now. :thumb:

If you completely flush your system, you can run whatever coolant you want, but I suspect that if you have corrosion issues down the line, Chrysler will blame it on your coolant, so it's not worth saving a few bucks for that headache.

wayoflife
12-18-2013, 03:20 PM
Edited all my posts referencing the green stuff, so the info is all correct now. :thumb:

Good deal. While it may not react the same way as HOAT and OAT getting mixed together, I'm pretty sure Chrysler doesn't recommend adding green stuff to HOAT as it degrades the benefits of it.

NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 03:25 PM
Good deal. While it may not react the same way as HOAT and OAT getting mixed together, I'm pretty sure Chrysler doesn't recommend adding green stuff to HOAT as it degrades the benefits of it.

I agree. Coolant isn't like oil (where you change it all the time) so once in a while, it's worth spending a few bucks to use the OEM stuff. Also, since chrysler uses crazy colors, if you ever had a cooling issue, and they popped the cap, they would see green, and immediately have something (you) you blame the problem on. No need to give em any more ammo than they already have.

JKFlyer
12-18-2013, 03:46 PM
thank you!!! so our jeeps hoses are really like artieries! need to feed them the right "foods"

rdreng
12-18-2013, 03:48 PM
Thanks for the info. The Wrangler is in at the dealer for what appears to be casting sand in the coolant system. First thing I'll do is check the work order receipt when I pick it up to verify the correct part number was used for the coolant refill.

NFRs2000NYC
12-18-2013, 03:53 PM
Thanks for the info. The Wrangler is in at the dealer for what appears to be casting sand in the coolant system. First thing I'll do is check the work order receipt when I pick it up to verify the correct part number was used for the coolant refill.

Well, you would be less susceptible to the damage since will should flush your entire system to get rid of the sand, but you still want to know which one was used. Wouldn't be surprised if the dealer tries to save a few bucks on parts and used HOAT to refill your system. Since you bought yours with OAT, might as well demand it.

jkuone
12-20-2013, 04:20 AM
WOW after reading all this I went right out and drew some coolant out of radiator. About 2 inches in clear glass, looks orange. My wife and her dad both said orange too. Jeep was built in Jan 2013 !!....

NFRs2000NYC
12-20-2013, 04:23 AM
WOW after reading all this I went right out and drew some coolant out of radiator. About 2 inches in clear glass, looks orange. My wife and her dad both said orange too. Jeep was built in Jan 2013 !!....

Interesting...maybe you got a REALLY early 13 before they switched over.....If possible, can you post a pic? If it is indeed the orange HOAT, that's fine, just make sure that you only use that, and be extra careful now, since a dealer might see that you have a 13 and assume you have the purple stuff.

jkuone
12-20-2013, 04:32 AM
Interesting...maybe you got a REALLY early 13 before they switched over.....If possible, can you post a pic? If it is indeed the orange HOAT, that's fine, just make sure that you only use that, and be extra careful now, since a dealer might see that you have a 13 and assume you have the purple stuff.

Kinda worried thou, jeep was just in the dealer for bad oil pressure sensor. Hope they didn't top coolant off to !.. ( with wrong stuff )....

NFRs2000NYC
12-20-2013, 04:34 AM
Kinda worried thou, jeep was just in the dealer for bad oil pressure sensor. Hope they didn't top coolant off to !.. ( with wrong stuff )....

Thats why I wanted to see a photo. If it looks like the orange in the glass above, it wasn't mixed. I also doubt they added anything when you had an oil related issue.

sean.m.adams33
12-20-2013, 04:36 AM
Great info. Thanks for sharing!!

jkuone
12-20-2013, 04:44 AM
Thats why I wanted to see a photo. If it looks like the orange in the glass above, it wasn't mixed. I also doubt they added anything when you had an oil related issue.

Iam going to double check this tomorrow. I want to see what it looks like in sunlight ok...

Army_Vet
12-20-2013, 09:44 AM
Thanks for the info. The Wrangler is in at the dealer for what appears to be casting sand in the coolant system. First thing I'll do is check the work order receipt when I pick it up to verify the correct part number was used for the coolant refill.

I wonder; with how many of these "casting sand" cases I have heard of lately how many might possibly be this mixed coolant issue:thinking:

NFRs2000NYC
12-20-2013, 02:28 PM
I wonder; with how many of these "casting sand" cases I have heard of lately how many might possibly be this mixed coolant issue:thinking:

I doubt one has to do with another. Casting sand is pretty apparent and obviously can't come from incorrect coolant. When then fix the issue, they need to flush the system anyway (they are supposed to at least) so it's shouldn't be a problem.

eeftw
12-20-2013, 02:34 PM
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/hoat-oat-one-for-the-record-books-258369.html


...

jkuone
12-21-2013, 09:14 PM
So I took another coolant sample from radiator early today. It's nice and sunny out, antifreeze still looks orange,but when looked at from side there is a slight purple color to it. Went to the dealer this morn to get a jug of OAT antifreeze 36.00 bucks. Service mgr looked at the coolant in jeep and said it was the right stuff, and that I bought the right type to. So all good here. He said there have been some issues with mixing of coolants in a couple cases.

JKRandall
12-23-2013, 08:46 AM
Thanks for all the info on the coolant.

Rottenbelly
12-23-2013, 10:38 AM
Glad I saw this. Jeep overheated coming over vail pass and puked out a bunch of fluids.
Needed to top it off before I go home. Now I know what to look for.

Army_Vet
12-23-2013, 10:54 AM
So I took another coolant sample from radiator early today. It's nice and sunny out, antifreeze still looks orange,but when looked at from side there is a slight purple color to it. Went to the dealer this morn to get a jug of OAT antifreeze 36.00 bucks. Service mgr looked at the coolant in jeep and said it was the right stuff, and that I bought the right type to. So all good here. He said there have been some issues with mixing of coolants in a couple cases.


I doubt one has to do with another. Casting sand is pretty apparent and obviously can't come from incorrect coolant. When then fix the issue, they need to flush the system anyway (they are supposed to at least) so it's shouldn't be a problem.

This is what I was referring to Dave... Dealers doing a whoopsie; and blaming it on casting sand... If it happened a few times at this dealer, its a good chance that it happened a few times at most every dealer

Mallard8767
12-23-2013, 11:05 PM
Let me start by saying Son Of A Bitch!!!

I am currently on my way home, getting a ride from the dealer as I have to leave my jeep overnight to get the coolant system flushed. I have a 2013 and ~5 months ago when I had the jeep into the dealer they topped off my OAT with HOAT! I am so pissed that due to this simple mistake I now have to worry about the future reliability of my engne. Anyone else with issues? How are you farring?

I am going to make the dealer note that they caused this issue on my receipt and vehicle history in case I have future issues but I am wondering if I should ask for more (water pump, radiator etc.)?

Keep ya posted. :banghead:

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Jaydoc1
12-29-2013, 05:52 AM
Shortly after I purchased my '13 and was headed to Moab I stopped in the dealership to buy a bottle. They handed me the wrong stuff and argued with me when I told them so. Fortunately I had the correct item number with me and made the guy behind the counter go look again. There was a lot of whispering going on between him and another shop guy. They clearly had no idea that there was a difference in the coolants. I'm guessing a lot of Jeeps around here got theirs mixed.

NFRs2000NYC
12-29-2013, 06:06 AM
Let me start by saying Son Of A Bitch!!!

I am currently on my way home, getting a ride from the dealer as I have to leave my jeep overnight to get the coolant system flushed. I have a 2013 and ~5 months ago when I had the jeep into the dealer they topped off my OAT with HOAT! I am so pissed that due to this simple mistake I now have to worry about the future reliability of my engne. Anyone else with issues? How are you farring?

I am going to make the dealer note that they caused this issue on my receipt and vehicle history in case I have future issues but I am wondering if I should ask for more (water pump, radiator etc.)?

Keep ya posted. :banghead:

Sent from my SCH-I535 using WAYALIFE mobile app

A receipt that states they made the error is a must. Then, a free full flush, and then contact chrysler for a 150K cooling system warranty.

NFRs2000NYC
12-29-2013, 06:07 AM
Shortly after I purchased my '13 and was headed to Moab I stopped in the dealership to buy a bottle. They handed me the wrong stuff and argued with me when I told them so. Fortunately I had the correct item number with me and made the guy behind the counter go look again. There was a lot of whispering going on between him and another shop guy. They clearly had no idea that there was a difference in the coolants. I'm guessing a lot of Jeeps around here got theirs mixed.

Yup. The fact that most of them don't know what they are doing and don't know their own product really boggles the mind.

JKWrang
12-29-2013, 06:56 AM
What about water wetter?

Sent via secret squirrel underground network.

mrmet1983
12-29-2013, 07:04 AM
That's nuts I always knew never to mix diff coolants but wow


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.

munstie
12-29-2013, 07:16 AM
Great info to know. . Thank you for posting this:thumbup:

Sent from the"Zone of Influence"

Skid_Kid
12-29-2013, 07:39 AM
Wow this is really good to know!!!!

NFRs2000NYC
12-29-2013, 06:48 PM
What about water wetter?

Sent via secret squirrel underground network.

There is absolutely no reason to run water wetter in a wrangler.

JK-JOHN-E
12-30-2013, 03:09 AM
Glad I just read this...Good job guys, great info:2thumbsup:

MrHooah04
12-30-2013, 04:58 AM
Extremely useful info here Dave, well done!

RUBINOT
12-30-2013, 06:29 AM
Thanks, excellent article. Great info

Sent from my SPH-L710 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Jeep_Dawg08
12-30-2013, 07:38 AM
Well now... if it wasnt 1:30am and 20 out my ass woild be checking mine. Ive had it for too long not with no cooling issues. But I can't for the life of me recall what I have in there. Getting kinda nervous right about now... :banghead:

●|||||●

fdnytj06
12-30-2013, 02:09 PM
What about tj owners ? I'm new to this sorry if it's a dumb question lol

bl17z90
12-30-2013, 02:28 PM
I wonder if doing a complete flush and filling it with the correct stuff would help my overheating issue I have sometimes on really hot summer days.

I added 50/50 awile back and am not sure what kind it was that I put in...It wasn't MOPAR thats for sure.

eddy
01-05-2014, 10:20 PM
Hell ya! this is good info to know! Good Job Dave.

Thank you I'm checking mine ASAP!

warrkill
01-30-2014, 07:39 PM
Thanks for taking the time to post this very useful info!

chuckt62
02-16-2014, 01:59 PM
Has anyone checked pricing at a Fiat dealer?

TeamFaust
02-17-2014, 02:08 AM
Thanks for this info and making it a sticky

MTG
02-17-2014, 03:16 AM
Not sure how I missed this before. Great write up!

One word of caution...

Don't only rely on the color of the cap. Obviously mopar didn't always put the blue caps on the HOAT.

69615

captk9
02-26-2014, 12:17 AM
Thumbs up to you. Thank you for your time and great info. I would of never know if i did not read this.

mallaki
04-04-2014, 10:20 AM
What about this? -- looks like HOAT, Mopar 68048953AB:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51212_0030.htm?sgsc=C6Z06ZR1C6Z06ZR1&utm_medium=compshop&utm_source=googlemerchant&gclid=CJ6l3PLMxr0CFaVxOgodj1wAQg

-- Quadratec says its good for 2007-14, priced at 21.99 with black cap?

and here is OAT - Mopar 68163849AA COOLANT ANTIFREEZ priced at 25.98
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68163849aa.html


so the price is almost the same as Amazon sells HOAT at $30.00 a bottle!

luggw1
04-05-2014, 09:55 PM
Thanks for the info!

This is good to know since my 2010 JKU just went to Wrangler heaven due to someone driving out in front of me when I'm running at 60 mph. I'm now waiting for our 2014 JKU Rubi X to come in.

On another note, I"ve also got a 76 CJ-5 that I've always used the green stuff in. Would it be advisable to flush it out the next time I work on the cooling system and move to one of these newer formulas?

Thanks again
Bill Lugg

NFRs2000NYC
04-05-2014, 10:28 PM
Thanks for the info!

This is good to know since my 2010 JKU just went to Wrangler heaven due to someone driving out in front of me when I'm running at 60 mph. I'm now waiting for our 2014 JKU Rubi X to come in.

On another note, I"ve also got a 76 CJ-5 that I've always used the green stuff in. Would it be advisable to flush it out the next time I work on the cooling system and move to one of these newer formulas?

Thanks again
Bill Lugg

Nah, if you are running the green stuff, I'd just keep running it. You can get quality green stuff for dirt and it does the job. You can if you want to of course, but for an older vehicle, I don't see the point of using more expensive fluid.

OBgrnRUBI
04-15-2014, 10:53 PM
Thanks for the knowledge, this makes me reflect on when the dealership installed a new motor in my 08 rubi then had to fix the head. Then about 6 months later my jeep stated to over heat a lot causing me to have to replace the pump that was gummed up on the beach... lucky me that I was meaning to camp there

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compton94
04-21-2014, 10:22 PM
Thanks for the write up, I will be going home and checking mine out as I had dealer service done in late december and I just noticed my fan running high the last week...:eek::doh:>:(

M_Savage
05-15-2014, 07:41 PM
Thank you so much for this info!

Last summer i drove with some friends from Tennessee to Utah going Through Las Vegas in 2013 Chevrolet Cruze and we overheated in New Mexico. we were stranded for awhile until i was able to get to a gas station and buy extra coolant that held us over until we found a dealership that could assist with the issue (which ended up being the thermometer as well as no coolant). This has nothing to do with mixing coolants but has made me realize how shitty of a situation that was which makes it that more important to know what needs to be used on your vehicle.

NFRs2000NYC
05-15-2014, 08:04 PM
Thank you so much for this info!

Last summer i drove with some friends from Tennessee to Utah going Through Las Vegas in 2013 Chevrolet Cruze and we overheated in New Mexico. we were stranded for awhile until i was able to get to a gas station and buy extra coolant that held us over until we found a dealership that could assist with the issue (which ended up being the thermometer as well as no coolant). This has nothing to do with mixing coolants but has made me realize how shitty of a situation that was which makes it that more important to know what needs to be used on your vehicle.

Well, as I stated earlier, if you are stranded or something, add whatever coolant you want but as soon as you get back home, do a full thorough flush.

Cajun JK
05-16-2014, 02:09 AM
I have been hearing about waterless coolant. I believe it's from evanscooling. Anybody ever heard or used this stuff?

Brent W
05-23-2014, 07:31 AM
Cajun, In response to your post Evans Cooling does make a good water less coolant. However it does have a few things associated with it you may want to consider. First you vehicle has to be "converted" so to speak in order to use it. First you have to use their flush to remove as much of the old anti-freeze/water from the system. Second thing to consider, if by some chance your out on the trail or anywhere for that matter and you do have any cooling system related issues. You just can't add water if you have a leak. Water and the Evans coolant are not really compatible. You would need to carry extra Evans coolant in the event of any issues. If it is something you are considering check your warranty first.

CombatDiver
06-11-2014, 08:56 PM
Great thread! I just did my sixth oil change on my 2009 Sahara and was looking at flushing the coolant due to living in a hotter/humid climate. This little bit of insight will certainly be helpful. Thanks OP and subsequent commenters!

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Snsrubicon
06-14-2014, 03:55 AM
Hey guys, I haven't seen a thread like this here, so I would like to post it up...if the higher powers find it useful enough, I think it should be a sticky, as a very innocent move can cause HAVOC on your entire cooling system/motor.....THIS IS BECOMING A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND WILL ONLY GET WORSE...DEALERS DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING AND ARE JUST DUMPING IN WHATEVER COOLANT IS ON-HAND.

Ok, first thing is first...there are two types of coolants used on the JK....HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology,) and OAT (Organic Additive Technology.)

The first thing you need to tattoo in your brain is this.....THESE TWO COOLANTS DO NOT MIX, AND A CHEMICAL REACTION WILL CAUSE IT TO GEL (more on this later.)

JK's 2012 and down use HOAT coolant and 2013+ use OAT coolant. DO NOT COUNT ON THE DEALER KNOWING WHICH COOLANT YOUR RIG TAKES. CHANCES ARE THEY WILL PUT IN THE WRONG ONE, SO IF GETTING SERVICE, MAKE CERTAIN THE CORRECT COOLANT IS USED!

How to tell the difference...For whatever reason, chrysler doesnt label them as HOAT/OAT so you need to know the signs to make sure you are getting the correct one....

60695

The first thing you are going to notice is the color....OAT (13+) is purple and HOAT (12-) is orange. The second thing you'll notice is that the HOAT coolant is rated for 5 years and 100K miles while the OAT is rated at 10 years 150K miles. The third thing you need to know is that the cap on the OAT is black while the cap on the HOAT is blue. The fourth thing you will know (not from the pic) is that OAT is priced like gold. It is $50-$60 a gallon (yes you read that right) so unless you have an emergency, buy it online, where it goes from $29 a gallon or so. If you go to the dealer to buy OAT, and the price is too cheap, they gave you the wrong one.

A little background on the color so that the next part makes sense to you guys....As we know, FIAT is with Chrysler now. Fiat has been using orange colored OAT for years. When Chrysler switched to OAT, they didn't want dealers/people getting confused, so to differentiate the new OAT coolant with the chrysler original orange HOAT, they added a purple dye. As a result, due to a weird light refraction, the purple OAT looks weird (even orange) when looked at certain angles. You can even pop open your radiator cap on your 14 and the coolant looks so orange you'd bet me your jeep that it's orange....but it isn't.

You saw the pic above, now compare it to this pic....(same purple OAT)
60704

Don't believe me yet? Check this out...open the overflow bottle, and you might see this....
60707

Orange? You would definitely bet me your PR44 that it's orange right?

Now lets take a pic by moving the lightsource and changing the angle....
60709

Still think it's orange? ;)

The reason why it looks orange isn't too complicated...the actual coolant is Fiat's orange OAT with chrysler's added purple dye. When it is put into a container that isn't see-through or well lit, the sheen from the original orange coolant comes through which is why it looks orange on the surface. If you
suck a little out using a turkey baster, you will quickly see that it's purple. Think of it as a VERY ANNOYING optical illusion.

Now, why you should care....mixing the two yields to catastrophic results...if you catch it early enough, you may be able to squeak by with a quick and painful flush...however, if you run it for a little while (a month+) you can completely destroy your system by completely clogging it up.

This is what happens when you mix glycol based coolant (HOAT, 99% of coolant in stores, etc) with OAT....

60711

The part number for OAT is 68163849AA

Here is a TSB from Chrysler:



To sum up....

If you own a 2012 and DOWN...you can run Chrysler HOAT coolant or any other Chrysler approved HOAT. There aren't many on the market, and the price is basically the same as chrysler's, so for warranty sake, run the OEM stuff. You need to make sure that if you buy from the dealer, you are getting HOAT coolant (blue cap, 100K mile, orange, $14 pricetag) and if the dealer is refilling yours for free, make SURE you tell them to use HOAT....OAT is your only kryptonite.

If you own a 2013 and up, you MUST USE Chrysler OAT coolant. If you are out on the trail, and need to top off, use distilled water to limp you home, do NOT use coolant from your buddy's truck, etc. If you are the kind of wheeler that carries spare fluids, carry a bottle of OAT with you. If you absolutely MUST use glycol based coolant, flush it out ASAP as soon as you get back home, and refill with the correct coolant. When at the dealer purchasing, make sure you are walking home with the correct bottle (black cap, purple, 10 year 150K label and expensive) and if they are topping off, inform them that you want to make sure they use OAT coolant.


I hope this post helps some members along the way!

Dave

Due to the dealer putting green coolant and stop leak in my new jk, because he cracked the radiator...lol I now have a 2014 motor in my 2012 jk...so I really need to ask that magic question....

Great info thanks so much

ttfhell
06-14-2014, 09:02 AM
Due to the dealer putting green coolant and stop leak in my new jk, because he cracked the radiator...lol I now have a 2014 motor in my 2012 jk...so I really need to ask that magic question....

Great info thanks so much

Times 2. I have a 2012 with a 2014 engine. Stick with the 2012 recommendations?

Jeep_Dawg08
06-17-2014, 07:47 PM
87779

Been running hot lately so I decided to see what was up...
Pulled this outta the overfill tank..
Something tells me the last owner wasnt so cautious or didnt know.
I have an 08, and going by this post I should be Orange not Purple..
Honestly, do I have an issue here? I suppose I will add water for now til I get this figured out.
●|||||||●

Jeep_Dawg08
06-18-2014, 03:02 AM
Anyone got a easy way tp check if there is now gel in the motor as well, before I start taking things apart?
Radiator or hose be easier than the water pump for sure.
May just replace the pump and thermostat as well in all this. Not sure what else could be the problem really.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

●|||||||●

chuckt62
06-18-2014, 07:09 PM
The anti freeze in the pic looks pretty clean. It's possible someone (dealer) my have flushed it and added the OAT after chasing the underlying overheating issue you're experiencing this summer.

How long have you had the '08?

c

Jeep_Dawg08
06-18-2014, 07:17 PM
I've had it going on 2yrs.. this yr traul riding (mud and woods)
Just started having over heat issues this yr.
●|||||||●

labbayk
07-01-2014, 08:54 PM
interesting. ty for explaining. won't be using cheap coolant from anywhere anymore. shes getting up there in mileage and I'm paying closer attn.

HighwayTrout
07-01-2014, 09:03 PM
So for you '14 and some '13 year owners with the EVIC system.
What temps are you seeing? It seems my jk runs hot. 230+ if I'm off road going slow.

JEEPnGEO
08-31-2014, 08:59 AM
Update that price LOL.

I went to the dealer today and bought 2 gallons of the Black lid stuff. The dealer gave me the right one.. I paid 51.24 for the two gallons with tax.. Just FYI...

Clem319
08-31-2014, 04:07 PM
So for you '14 and some '13 year owners with the EVIC system.
What temps are you seeing? It seems my jk runs hot. 230+ if I'm off road going slow.

I have a '13 and run pretty hot on the trails. Not enough to make me stop but a lot higher than regular road driving.

Also just checked mine and it had orange 😳. Ugh, now what97993

JLSilerJK
08-31-2014, 05:14 PM
Thanks for this info. Very good to know. I did so much research before I started shopping around and this is the first I heard of it. Just bought a used '09 and am freaking out, man! I havent seen any changes in engine temp on or off road so that is easing my mind. Good luck to the guys in here flushing engines I hope you caught it soon enough.

JLSilerJK
09-01-2014, 08:52 PM
after basting and a lil show and tell survey says orange. phew!

gingerchocolate
09-17-2014, 03:57 AM
Thanks for this thread. I'm about due for a flush so I'm glad I read this.

H8ROADS
09-22-2014, 11:18 PM
Super useful thread, thanks for the heads up!

wwood
09-27-2014, 07:52 PM
I have a 2013 JKUR purchased July 2013. Spotted this thread months ago when the Jeep had about 2,500 miles. Checked but did not see any sludge in the coolant overflow bottle. Checked the bottle recently at about 7,500 miles and saw about an inch or so of brown sludge at the bottom. Stuck a long stick in the bottle but no sludge came out on the stick, so it must be pretty watery, not thick like I saw in other posts.

Made a service appointment with Airpark Dodge in Scottsdale. They said the sludge was "barleak" (factory applied stop leak) and agreed to flush cooling system under warranty. I agreed. Had to wait about 2 hours but was happy to get that gunk out of my Jeep.

Labor: 8748 Flush out cooling system and overflow bottle 0.80 hrs - Completed
Parts: 1 P/N 68163848AA Antifreez-Coolant

As to the sludge being factory applied stop leak...... barleak??
Why would a new vehicle need stop leak applied at the factory? They can't make engines that don't leak coolant?

Never heard of barleak so I looked it up. To my surprise, I found an actual company with a long successful history called Bar's Leaks that makes coolant stop leak and other products that really are used on OEM assembly lines by major US auto makers:

http://barsproducts.com/company/history

So it appears the dealer was correct when they told me the sludge was factory applied stop leak and that, having flushed it out, I should not have any problems or see any further build up in the overflow bottle.

Anyway, my dealer let me examine the sludge before they did the system flush. The brownish gunk is pretty watery, too thin to clog up the heater core or anything else. I smelled it and rubbed it between my fingers. The stuff is soft, smooth, no grit, no sand. Smells funny, not bad, nothing it reminds me of. I have had some of it sitting in a cup for a week or so and it is still soft, not hardening up at all. Definitely not a clogging risk so I feel the flush would have removed any of it still inside the cooling system. Don't know exactly what a cooling system flush consists of but I feel confident this stuff is not a problem.

Couple of other things....

1) 2013 Mopar coolant is sold under 2 part numbers 68163848AA for concentrate (not diluted with water) and 68163849AA for pre-diluted 50/50 with water.

2) As stated in the original post, the coolant can be orange or purple depending on the light. When you open the radiator cap and shine a flashlight in the hole the stuff looks orange. But if you dip a Q-tip or paper towel in the liquid and hold it up it looks purple. If you look at the overflow bottle it looks purple but if you shine a flashlight through the bottle it looks orange. Weird.

Bottom line: if you see sludge in your overflow bottle, stick a long stick in there and stir the sludge a little while shining a flashlight through the bottle. If nothing comes out on the stick and you can see through the bottom of the bottle, the sludge is watery and probably won't cause any problem. Not a bad idea to get dealer to flush system if under warranty or do it yourself if not. If the sludge is thick like pudding as shown in earlier posts, then you have a totally different problem and I would definitely want the dealer to correct it which might mean replacing the radiator and heater core.

Incidentally if you want to remove the coolant overflow bottle, mine came off with no tools, simply pulled it straight up, it hooks into 2 slots.

Here is a pic of the sludge, coolant overflow bottle, 2013 new coolant jug, and the odd color variations:

WranglerJack
10-04-2014, 05:47 PM
I found this interesting .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

wwood
10-05-2014, 02:45 AM
I found this interesting .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

Yes very interesting. Here is the part I did not like about Evans coolant according to the following quote from their own tech info on their website: http://www.evanscooling.com/

"Engines filled with Evans usually run 3 - 10C hotter than those using water-based coolants, but the overall heat transfer and engine efficiency is improved through the elimination of steam-vapour pockets. The lube-oil temperature also runs 3 10C hotter with Evans but >500,000 successful conversions confirm this has no detrimental effect."

3 deg C is 37.4 deg F
10 deg C is 50 deg F

I don't like the idea of my coolant or lube oil running anywhere from 37-50 degrees F hotter than normal. I also don't like the fact that Evans uses Centigrade on their website instead of Fahrenheit which makes the temp differences look small. Some people might not notice this little trick.

Plus I immediately wonder why the major US auto makers don't use Evans coolant if it is better than traditional antifreeze. Maybe its because of the higher running temps.

Sc741
10-05-2014, 02:53 AM
They don't use it because of cost.

wwood
10-05-2014, 03:16 AM
They don't use it because of cost.

Could be but according to the Jay Leno video above, Evans is only $39/gal.
I think I paid that much or more for the gal of factory antifreeze I bought for my Jeep and my Ford truck.
Plus according to Evans their coolant never needs to be flushed out and replaced or even topped off.

Jaydoc1
10-05-2014, 03:33 AM
Could be but according to the Jay Leno video above, Evans is only $39/gal.
I think I paid that much or more for the gal of factory antifreeze I bought for my Jeep and my Ford truck.
Plus according to Evans their coolant never needs to be flushed out and replaced or even topped off.

That's about what I paid for the OEM coolant from the dealership as well. :yup:

Sc741
10-05-2014, 01:38 PM
Manufactures by in bulk. That company may also be too small to support everything else that goes with working with a man. Like auto debit if your company can't deliver, product is late and the fines involved because of rework costs etc. There is a lot more behind the scenes that is involved.

hogtyed
10-05-2014, 02:24 PM
Holy Crap!!! I had no idea, thanks for the great info...:2thumbsup::rock::thumb:

Zstairlessone
10-06-2014, 03:19 AM
Yes very interesting. Here is the part I did not like about Evans coolant according to the following quote from their own tech info on their website: http://www.evanscooling.com/

"Engines filled with Evans usually run 3 - 10C hotter than those using water-based coolants, but the overall heat transfer and engine efficiency is improved through the elimination of steam-vapour pockets. The lube-oil temperature also runs 3 – 10C hotter with Evans but >500,000 successful conversions confirm this has no detrimental effect."

3 deg C is 37.4 deg F
10 deg C is 50 deg F

I don't like the idea of my coolant or lube oil running anywhere from 37-50 degrees F hotter than normal. I also don't like the fact that Evans uses Centigrade on their website instead of Fahrenheit which makes the temp differences look small. Some people might not notice this little trick.

Plus I immediately wonder why the major US auto makers don't use Evans coolant if it is better than traditional antifreeze. Maybe its because of the higher running temps.

Ok, for actual temperature 3 C is equal to 37 F, but 3 C hotter than a given temperature is only 5.4 F hotter, not 37 F hotter and 10 C hotter is 18 F hotter.

Thing is the oil temp getting hotter is ridiculous (but true), if you transfer more heat out of the engine then you need to transfer more out of the radiator or the water heats up, raising efficiency, but causing block and component temps to rise which puts a load on the oil to cool more. Oil temp goes up and oil life goes down (by half I think for every 10 C rise in operating oil temp.

Plus I think the design of these engines will have the engine temp rise with a rise in coolant temp so the efficiency may not go up (based on a differential temp) and if both go up.....

Engine efficiency goes up because the heat sink temp is higher (more energy into power, less into heat loss) but there are things to consider, like the effect on oil quality and life, the trade off is getting efficiency within the design of the components of the engine and all it's interrelated systems.

Edit: I may be wrong (and have been many times before) but there is probably a ME or two here that can really answer this.

wwood
10-07-2014, 09:35 PM
Ok, for actual temperature 3 C is equal to 37 F, but 3 C hotter than a given temperature is only 5.4 F hotter, not 37 F hotter and 10 C hotter is 18 F hotter.



Z, you are correct, I said the temp differences wrong.
A 1 deg C difference (rise or fall) in temp is equal to 1.8 deg F. So, as you said, a temp increase of 3 deg C is 5.4 deg F and a 10 deg C increase is 18 deg F.
My point is the same - Evans used C to make the temp increase look smaller. They should have used F since we are in the US or given both numbers.
Having our engine and oil temps run 5 to 18 deg F higher than normal cannot be good. They say it does no harm but they are trying to sell their product......
The coolant now sold by Mopar for 2013+ Jeeps is rated for 10 years, 150k miles. Pretty much covers the life of the vehicle. Don't see a reason to switch to Evans.

BenoA
10-14-2014, 05:53 PM
Thanks to the OP, great post! Haven't read the 80+ replies but how do I make sure what coolant I have in my 2013? Thanks in advance


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cozdude
10-14-2014, 05:56 PM
Thanks to the OP, great post! Haven't read the 80+ replies but how do I make sure what coolant I have in my 2013? Thanks in advance


Envoy de mon iPhone l'aide de Tapatalk

according to this you should have OAT (purple). you could look at your over flow container and check to make sure the right one is in there if you had your coolant flushed since you first picked up your jeep. if you got it fresh off the lot you should have the right one in there from the factory.

sierra141
10-15-2014, 12:58 AM
I have a brand new 2014 and its orange.

sierra141
10-15-2014, 01:07 AM
I also checked a few new jeeps on the dealer lot a 2015 and a 2014 and they are all orange
Little skeptical on this don't know

cozdude
10-15-2014, 03:21 AM
I have a brand new 2014 and its orange.

If you go back to the original post by the op he states that the purple looks orange at different angles and provides pics. I would bet that this is what your noticing

wwood
10-15-2014, 05:45 AM
Yes, if you look at my post a few back you can see my pics, the 2013 and up coolant looks orange when you remove the radiator cap and shine a flashlight in but purple when you shine a flashlight through the coolant bottle.

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BnC
10-15-2014, 06:43 AM
Thanks for the great post. You surely have saved myself and others from great heartache.

Brendon
11-22-2014, 11:47 PM
Just stuck a stick down into the bottom of the coolant reservoir, I definitely have about a "1-1/2 of light brown sludge, like a previous post stated,
Any thoughts???

NFRs2000NYC
11-23-2014, 02:38 AM
Just stuck a stick down into the bottom of the coolant reservoir, I definitely have about a "1-1/2 of light brown sludge, like a previous post stated,
Any thoughts???

Supposedly the sludge is perfectly normal. Chrysler apparently adds stopleak to radiators to make sure the system is sealed. If you pull some sludge out, you will see it's almost 100% liquid. You can demand your dealer do a flush, I don't like my dealer doing anything not necessary. If you are under warranty, leave it alone. If you want, take some pics so you have some backup proof.

Brendon
11-25-2014, 06:31 AM
Supposedly the sludge is perfectly normal. Chrysler apparently adds stopleak to radiators to make sure the system is sealed. If you pull some sludge out, you will see it's almost 100% liquid. You can demand your dealer do a flush, I don't like my dealer doing anything not necessary. If you are under warranty, leave it alone. If you want, take some pics so you have some backup proof.

Got it, thanks!

Hooz
11-30-2014, 05:29 PM
I was checking fluids this morning in our JKs (both 2007) and saw that I needed to top my coolant off a bit. Good thing I found this thread!

I didn't have a dealership handy, but one of the local parts stores carries Zerex G-05 (gold jug), which I found is the same as the HOAT/orange coolant required for our years of JK. I think it was about $18 for the (non-pre-mixed) gallon, and then it cost me $1.57 for a gallon of distilled water at the CVS next door. So for less than $20, I got 2 gallons of coolant. :)

NAPA supposedly carries the pre-mixed Zerex, but they're closed on Sundays.

BillTheCat
12-04-2014, 03:39 PM
My "new" 2013 JK Rubi thanks you as I do!

Templar
12-18-2014, 04:06 AM
Wow I had no clue about this. Thank you so much for this post / thread.

Nattier237
01-12-2015, 09:16 PM
Very informative. Thanks for taking the time to share!

RjSkippy
01-14-2015, 02:34 AM
Great information... thanks for posting! The color test was interesting.:crazyeyes:

chronicjk
02-05-2015, 03:47 PM
Good post. About 2-3 months ago I noticed my coolant was low on my 2014 so I quickly stopped by the dealer to get it topped off.

They told me to take it through their oil change bay and have it topped off, here's hoping they put the right stuff in!

EZ-E
02-12-2015, 08:40 PM
Not sure if this has been brought up: I went to get some HOAT for my '12 today and it no longer has a blue cap. It just says "5 year 100,000 mile" with a black cap. I confirmed its orange and had them double check part numbers.

BigJeschke
02-14-2015, 09:04 PM
Needed coolant to add a little to the recovery bottle on my '14, but really wasn't wanting to pay $60 for a gallon. Stopped by the dealership, no bulk fluid, so I had to buy some. It HAS gotten cheaper by about 50%. I had the parts counter triple check the part number and paid $21 plus tax for a gallon of concentrate.:rock:

Riley Moss
02-19-2015, 09:36 AM
Well just discovered that the dealership have me a bottle of HOAT instead of OAT fortunately I have only put a little in before this thread mainly just a top off so barely any but now I will be going to the dealer to make sure they give me the right stuff and to flush my system cause apparently the dumbass at the counter cannot figure the difference between coolants. I wish I would have seen this thread sooner...

maragon5
03-13-2015, 07:24 PM
Thanks for this info! Very informative.

JKDriver07
03-30-2015, 12:54 AM
Great post...just had to top off my coolant

Shantz
03-30-2015, 01:28 AM
Thank you for the info... gonna be doing a drain and fill soon.

tyscty
04-03-2015, 07:22 PM
You ever feel like you got some really good news a little too late. So I'm sitting here at the shop in VA on my way to CA reading this really useful article about the different types of coolant as they flush my system because a dealer along the way decided to sabotage my coolant. $350 and several hours later... FML😡

"Great Article"

tkjeep
05-16-2015, 02:03 AM
87779

Been running hot lately so I decided to see what was up...
Pulled this outta the overfill tank..
Something tells me the last owner wasnt so cautious or didnt know.
I have an 08, and going by this post I should be Orange not Purple..
Honestly, do I have an issue here? I suppose I will add water for now til I get this figured out.
●|||||||●

I had to top off my coolant due to a sporadic leak (puddle appears under my vehicle once every couple of weeks) that runs down the backside of the motor. I had stumbled across this thread as I was trying to find how to repair the leak, so when I went to the dealership I made sure to purchase the correct part number and made sure it was MS-9769G and the description on their computer screen read HOAT. I was initially concerned because the lid was black and not blue like what was pictured at the beginning of the thread. When I started mixing it with water, it wasn't orange, but it wasn't purple either. It is the pinkish-purple color like what you have pictured. So before I topped off my coolant, I spent about an hour on the internet trying to determine if I had misread the part number. I found some other threads that confirmed that one of the color options now is pink.

Riley Moss
05-18-2015, 06:27 PM
I have a '13 and run pretty hot on the trails. Not enough to make me stop but a lot higher than regular road driving.

Also just checked mine and it had orange 😳. Ugh, now what97993

So did you 2013 JK come from the factory with the orange coolant?

Clem319
05-18-2015, 07:28 PM
So did you 2013 JK come from the factory with the orange coolant?

I would imagine yes since I bought it at 12k miles. But, read through the entire first post and do the tests to ensure the correct coolant is in there. I think I jumped the gun because the dealer said it was the correct one. Had it flushed and confirmed what went in it. Still looks orange at first sight.

got2know
06-05-2015, 05:09 PM
Took my 2013 Wrangler back to the Jeep dealer for an oil change. They said the coolant level was low and they added 2 quarts. Guess what...... They added the orange stuff. Told the guy that it should be purple and he said that was not the case. Called Chrysler and they verified that they added the wrong stuff and now the dealer has to flush out my system. >:( The Service Manager did not know that the 2013 used OAT. Told him about the TSB -07-004-12 REV A and he seemed shocked. He said it was safe to drive since they can't get to it until Monday. Do you think it is ok to drive a few hundred miles? How many vehicles have they done this to.

NFRs2000NYC
06-05-2015, 07:31 PM
Took my 2013 Wrangler back to the Jeep dealer for an oil change. They said the coolant level was low and they added 2 quarts. Guess what...... They added the orange stuff. Told the guy that it should be purple and he said that was not the case. Called Chrysler and they verified that they added the wrong stuff and now the dealer has to flush out my system. >:( The Service Manager did not know that the 2013 used OAT. Told him about the TSB -07-004-12 REV A and he seemed shocked. He said it was safe to drive since they can't get to it until Monday. Do you think it is ok to drive a few hundred miles? How many vehicles have they done this to.

Sorry for the headache brother. You should be fine for the short amount of time. Just make sure you get documentation that the dealer screwed up just in case you ever have cooling system problems down the road, you have some ammo.

JamesWyatt
06-05-2015, 11:07 PM
This happened to my 2014 a few months ago at a quick lube place. They topped off the overflow reservoir as I was yelling, "Noooooo..." in my head from inside. I got the usual "this stuff is fine BS". They finally agreed and sucked the overflow tank out clean, rinsing it with water.

It's sad to say but always have your fluid levels where they should be before getting your oil changed anywhere.

wcarlson40
06-05-2015, 11:19 PM
It's sad to say but always have your fluid levels where they should be before getting your oil changed anywhere.

All the more reason to change your oil yourself.

MarkW13
06-06-2015, 02:48 AM
This happened to my 2014 a few months ago at a quick lube place. They topped off the overflow reservoir as I was yelling, "Noooooo..." in my head from inside. I got the usual "this stuff is fine BS". They finally agreed and sucked the overflow tank out clean, rinsing it with water.

It's sad to say but always have your fluid levels where they should be before getting your oil changed anywhere.

I take mine to the dealership. If they put the wrong fluid in, its on them.

NFRs2000NYC
06-06-2015, 03:57 AM
This happened to my 2014 a few months ago at a quick lube place. They topped off the overflow reservoir as I was yelling, "Noooooo..." in my head from inside. I got the usual "this stuff is fine BS". They finally agreed and sucked the overflow tank out clean, rinsing it with water.

It's sad to say but always have your fluid levels where they should be before getting your oil changed anywhere.

You bring your beloved Jeep to a quick lube place? C'mon dude. My dealership charges $24.99 for an oil change....you can't be saving that much at a quick lube (they use garbage oil btw) and if you really want to save money, do it yourself (although you won't save much.)

JamesWyatt
06-06-2015, 04:05 AM
You bring your beloved Jeep to a quick lube place? C'mon dude. My dealership charges $24.99 for an oil change....you can't be saving that much at a quick lube (they use garbage oil btw) and if you really want to save money, do it yourself (although you won't save much.)

I'm not cheap, just lazy. The lube place is close. And I always waste money getting Pennzoil full synthetic. From the stories I read it sounds like the dealer is just as likely to screw up (overfill the oil, wrong coolant, etc) as the little guys. Doing it myself was the best advice, but I'd refer that back to the lazy point I made. Hell, if I changed my oil, pretty soon I'd be washing it myself, too ;-P I changed my own oil and washed/vacuumed my own vehicles from age 15 to about my early 30s, and at some point I was like that cartoon of the business guy throwing his papers in the air, with the quote, "And not a single f--- was given."

NFRs2000NYC
06-06-2015, 04:11 AM
I'm not cheap, just lazy. The lube place is close. And I always waste money getting Pennzoil full synthetic. From the stories I read it sounds like the dealer is just as likely to screw up (overfill the oil, wrong coolant, etc) as the little guys. Doing it myself was the best advice, but I'd refer that back to the lazy point I made. Hell, if I changed my oil, pretty soon I'd be washing it myself, too ;-P I changed my own oil and washed/vacuumed my own vehicles from age 15 to about my early 30s, and at some point I was like that cartoon of the business guy throwing his papers in the air, with the quote, "And not a single f--- was given."

But if the dealer screws up, you have recourse with chrysler. If a quick lube place screws up, they'll tell you to pound sand and chrysler to shaft you as well. ;)

JamesWyatt
06-06-2015, 04:12 AM
But if the dealer screws up, you have recourse with chrysler. If a quick lube place screws up, they'll tell you to pound sand and chrysler to shaft you as well. ;)

Good point - if they own up to it.

Riley Moss
06-06-2015, 06:54 AM
The only place I will go to change my oil if for some god awful reason I'm unable is oil can Henry's cause those guys actually let me see what they are doing under my rig and under the hood. The ass hats a jiffy lube did their however many point safety inspection and cracked my air box and didn't put the filter back in right.

Kartyman550
06-19-2015, 02:15 AM
Question: going through this right now with a totally collapsed upper rad hose. It totally rectifies when the engine is hot. So I thought of maybe swapping.

Question being: why can we not just use anything. I mean aluminum block compatible. Dealer quoted for $594 for 12L of this coolant. Why not just prestone long life?

Patmasterflash
06-23-2015, 05:23 PM
That seems insane high. You can do better. Try searching Mopar distributors or outlets online.

Jaydoc1
07-18-2015, 10:17 PM
So I'm not really sure how this can possible still be happening this far in to the model cycle.

I have used a local dealer for years with excellent results. I actually used to take my Dodge Viper there. Well I took my '13 in for a bunch of stuff and some running-hot funny smell trouble-shooting and it was also due for a coolant flush. So I had them do that.

Today I went to grab some coolant for the trail kit as we are going on a wheeling trip next week. The coolant they handed me? The HOAT. When I pointed out that it was the wrong fluid and gave them the part number I started to wonder, what had they flushed my system with? I had them look it up. Sure enough they flushed it with the wrong shit! :doh: Goes back Tuesday for the right fluid. People should get fired for this kind of thing. All they did was basically say, "Our bad", and that was it. Not even an apology.

Now I have been extremely careful with the coolant I put in it but I'm wondering, with my recent running hot issues, if at some point in the past they already screwed up and I've been adding small amounts of correct fluid here and there to a cooling system full of the INCORRECT fluid?!

Brent McCartney
07-18-2015, 10:35 PM
So I'm not really sure how this can possible still be happening this far in to the model cycle.

I have used a local dealer for years with excellent results. I actually used to take my Dodge Viper there. Well I took my '13 in for a bunch of stuff and some running-hot funny smell trouble-shooting and it was also due for a coolant flush. So I had them do that.

Today I went to grab some coolant for the trail kit as we are going on a wheeling trip next week. The coolant they handed me? The HOAT. When I pointed out that it was the wrong fluid and gave them the part number I started to wonder, what had they flushed my system with? I had them look it up. Sure enough they flushed it with the wrong shit! :doh: Goes back Tuesday for the right fluid. People should get fired for this kind of thing. All they did was basically say, "Our bad", and that was it. Not even an apology.

Now I have been extremely careful with the coolant I put in it but I'm wondering, with my recent running hot issues, if at some point in the past they already screwed up and I've been adding small amounts of correct fluid here and there to a cooling system full of the INCORRECT fluid?!

I just bought my 2015, I noticed fairly quickly the coolant is a purple color, is that not the case on earlier years? Haven't had a Jeep in a few years so coming off 15 years of Chevy Red coolant.

PapasPuncher
07-21-2015, 12:22 AM
So I can't seem to find any good data on how to properly flush the JK coolant from the system, entirely? Can anyone point me in the right direction I am taking a 3,000K trip this coming weekend and want to flush prior. Specifically what I can't find is how to get the coolant out of the block. Searching through this forum and reading all the posts in this thread have not revealed anything also searching on other sites I didn't find anything...

NFRs2000NYC
07-21-2015, 12:39 AM
So I can't seem to find any good data on how to properly flush the JK coolant from the system, entirely? Can anyone point me in the right direction I am taking a 3,000K trip this coming weekend and want to flush prior. Specifically what I can't find is how to get the coolant out of the block. Searching through this forum and reading all the posts in this thread have not revealed anything also searching on other sites I didn't find anything...

You have a 2013 10A according to your sig......why are you flushing your coolant?

PapasPuncher
07-21-2015, 02:13 AM
You have a 2013 10A according to your sig......why are you flushing your coolant?

Because I was a poor sap that had filled the reserve reservoir with HOAT prior to reading this thread about 6 months ago and just want to flush it clean... Also I figured this would be the best place to post up a link or instructions on a full flush due to the importance of the nature of the thread.

Theboogyman3.14
08-25-2015, 03:25 AM
Hey guys, I haven't seen a thread like this here, so I would like to post it up...if the higher powers find it useful enough, I think it should be a sticky, as a very innocent move can cause HAVOC on your entire cooling system/motor.....THIS IS BECOMING A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND WILL ONLY GET WORSE...DEALERS DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING AND ARE JUST DUMPING IN WHATEVER COOLANT IS ON-HAND.

Ok, first thing is first...there are two types of coolants used on the JK....HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology,) and OAT (Organic Additive Technology.)

The first thing you need to tattoo in your brain is this.....THESE TWO COOLANTS DO NOT MIX, AND A CHEMICAL REACTION WILL CAUSE IT TO GEL (more on this later.)

JK's 2012 and down use HOAT coolant and 2013+ use OAT coolant. DO NOT COUNT ON THE DEALER KNOWING WHICH COOLANT YOUR RIG TAKES. CHANCES ARE THEY WILL PUT IN THE WRONG ONE, SO IF GETTING SERVICE, MAKE CERTAIN THE CORRECT COOLANT IS USED!

How to tell the difference...For whatever reason, chrysler doesnt label them as HOAT/OAT so you need to know the signs to make sure you are getting the correct one....

60695

The first thing you are going to notice is the color....OAT (13+) is purple and HOAT (12-) is orange. The second thing you'll notice is that the HOAT coolant is rated for 5 years and 100K miles while the OAT is rated at 10 years 150K miles. The third thing you need to know is that the cap on the OAT is black while the cap on the HOAT is blue. The fourth thing you will know (not from the pic) is that OAT is priced like gold. It is $50-$60 a gallon (yes you read that right) so unless you have an emergency, buy it online, where it goes from $29 a gallon or so. If you go to the dealer to buy OAT, and the price is too cheap, they gave you the wrong one.

A little background on the color so that the next part makes sense to you guys....As we know, FIAT is with Chrysler now. Fiat has been using orange colored OAT for years. When Chrysler switched to OAT, they didn't want dealers/people getting confused, so to differentiate the new OAT coolant with the chrysler original orange HOAT, they added a purple dye. As a result, due to a weird light refraction, the purple OAT looks weird (even orange) when looked at certain angles. You can even pop open your radiator cap on your 14 and the coolant looks so orange you'd bet me your jeep that it's orange....but it isn't.

You saw the pic above, now compare it to this pic....(same purple OAT)
60704

Don't believe me yet? Check this out...open the overflow bottle, and you might see this....
60707

Orange? You would definitely bet me your PR44 that it's orange right?

Now lets take a pic by moving the lightsource and changing the angle....
60709

Still think it's orange? ;)

The reason why it looks orange isn't too complicated...the actual coolant is Fiat's orange OAT with chrysler's added purple dye. When it is put into a container that isn't see-through or well lit, the sheen from the original orange coolant comes through which is why it looks orange on the surface. If you
suck a little out using a turkey baster, you will quickly see that it's purple. Think of it as a VERY ANNOYING optical illusion.

Now, why you should care....mixing the two yields to catastrophic results...if you catch it early enough, you may be able to squeak by with a quick and painful flush...however, if you run it for a little while (a month+) you can completely destroy your system by completely clogging it up.

This is what happens when you mix glycol based coolant (HOAT, 99% of coolant in stores, etc) with OAT....

60711

The part number for OAT is 68163849AA

Here is a TSB from Chrysler:



To sum up....

If you own a 2012 and DOWN...you can run Chrysler HOAT coolant or any other Chrysler approved HOAT. There aren't many on the market, and the price is basically the same as chrysler's, so for warranty sake, run the OEM stuff. You need to make sure that if you buy from the dealer, you are getting HOAT coolant (blue cap, 100K mile, orange, $14 pricetag) and if the dealer is refilling yours for free, make SURE you tell them to use HOAT....OAT is your only kryptonite.

If you own a 2013 and up, you MUST USE Chrysler OAT coolant. If you are out on the trail, and need to top off, use distilled water to limp you home, do NOT use coolant from your buddy's truck, etc. If you are the kind of wheeler that carries spare fluids, carry a bottle of OAT with you. If you absolutely MUST use glycol based coolant, flush it out ASAP as soon as you get back home, and refill with the correct coolant. When at the dealer purchasing, make sure you are walking home with the correct bottle (black cap, purple, 10 year 150K label and expensive) and if they are topping off, inform them that you want to make sure they use OAT coolant.


I hope this post helps some members along the way!

Dave

When you posted this, many douchebag mechanics silently wept because there is no telling how many engines and coolant systems you saved from annihilation. Kudos to you man

RubiDon
09-16-2015, 08:22 PM
You can count mine as one of the engines saved by your post!!! I had a minor coolant issue shortly after buying my 2014 Rubicon in November 2014, and picked up some of what I thought was the correct coolant. Someone in the parts department at my local dealer SOLD ME THE WRONG COOLANT, and I actually added a VERY small amount to my reservoir just to top off what was really unnecessary in the first place. I read your post a couple of weeks ago and the dealer exchanged it for the proper coolant at no extra charge, and realized what could have happened. Fortunately that employee is no longer working there or I would have had a few words for him!!! I have had no issues since, but literally added only an ounce or two of the wrong coolant at best.

Thank you so much for posting this information - you LITERALLY SAVED MY JEEP!!!

RubiDon
Castle Rock, CO

bekel
09-29-2015, 03:24 AM
just got my first service done, they topped of coolant and thank to this thread I asked them what they put in it and it was the wrong one they flushed out the system an reinstalled b4 I ever left the dealer ;)

Shantz
09-29-2015, 08:43 PM
Something stupid to help remember... Hall & Oats = HOAT & OAT... Hall came before Oats = HOAT before OAT... 2012 and older comes before 2013 and newer.

Gadget
09-29-2015, 09:07 PM
I just took a picture of the correct bottle with my phone so I can reference that.

JamesWyatt
10-02-2015, 03:24 AM
Something stupid to help remember... Hall & Oats = HOAT & OAT... Hall came before Oats = HOAT before OAT... 2012 and older comes before 2013 and newer.

This is awesome. I was trying to remember which was which the other day without looking it up, but now I'll never forget, lol.

Shantz
10-05-2015, 10:29 PM
This is awesome. I was trying to remember which was which the other day without looking it up, but now I'll never forget, lol.

Haha nice, glad I could help.

Soylent
10-10-2015, 06:18 PM
I have been noticing an antifreeze smell lately and ran hot giing up the grape vine. Found some dried residue at the hose connection on the block. Pulled some out of the radiator. Both look orange. WTF!? Does OAT dry orange?

Forgot to add, build date 4/2013.

ELBRAVO
10-16-2015, 09:56 PM
Hello Dave,

I am just an old aircraft technician/Mechanic. I worked for National Airlines and consequently Pan Am in Aircraft Overhaul here in Miami.

Thank you very much for taking the time to educate us Jeep owners.

My very first Jeep was an Awesome CJ-5 Renegade.

This is a very IMPORTANT TOPIC. Would it hurt to actually put in via a permanent marker the CORECT Part Number and Name on the Cooling System Refill or service area?

I have a 2013 10th Anniversary 2 door Rubicon and want to keep it in great condition.

Sometimes when I an in a hurry, I stop by the local (Mobil 1) and get my engine serviced.

I just looked up the price of the cost for an oil filter and 5-6 quarts of synthetic oil and the markup is amazing.

Please advise about my suggestion of labeling your Jeep accordingly.

Thank you once again!

Rocky




Hey guys, I haven't seen a thread like this here, so I would like to post it up...if the higher powers find it useful enough, I think it should be a sticky, as a very innocent move can cause HAVOC on your entire cooling system/motor.....THIS IS BECOMING A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND WILL ONLY GET WORSE...DEALERS DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING AND ARE JUST DUMPING IN WHATEVER COOLANT IS ON-HAND.

Ok, first thing is first...there are two types of coolants used on the JK....HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology,) and OAT (Organic Additive Technology.)

The first thing you need to tattoo in your brain is this.....THESE TWO COOLANTS DO NOT MIX, AND A CHEMICAL REACTION WILL CAUSE IT TO GEL (more on this later.)

JK's 2012 and down use HOAT coolant and 2013+ use OAT coolant. DO NOT COUNT ON THE DEALER KNOWING WHICH COOLANT YOUR RIG TAKES. CHANCES ARE THEY WILL PUT IN THE WRONG ONE, SO IF GETTING SERVICE, MAKE CERTAIN THE CORRECT COOLANT IS USED!

How to tell the difference...For whatever reason, chrysler doesnt label them as HOAT/OAT so you need to know the signs to make sure you are getting the correct one....

Hello

60695

The first thing you are going to notice is the color....OAT (13+) is purple and HOAT (12-) is orange. The second thing you'll notice is that the HOAT coolant is rated for 5 years and 100K miles while the OAT is rated at 10 years 150K miles. The third thing you need to know is that the cap on the OAT is black while the cap on the HOAT is blue. The fourth thing you will know (not from the pic) is that OAT is priced like gold. It is $50-$60 a gallon (yes you read that right) so unless you have an emergency, buy it online, where it goes from $29 a gallon or so. If you go to the dealer to buy OAT, and the price is too cheap, they gave you the wrong one.

A little background on the color so that the next part makes sense to you guys....As we know, FIAT is with Chrysler now. Fiat has been using orange colored OAT for years. When Chrysler switched to OAT, they didn't want dealers/people getting confused, so to differentiate the new OAT coolant with the chrysler original orange HOAT, they added a purple dye. As a result, due to a weird light refraction, the purple OAT looks weird (even orange) when looked at certain angles. You can even pop open your radiator cap on your 14 and the coolant looks so orange you'd bet me your jeep that it's orange....but it isn't.

You saw the pic above, now compare it to this pic....(same purple OAT)
60704

Don't believe me yet? Check this out...open the overflow bottle, and you might see this....
60707

Orange? You would definitely bet me your PR44 that it's orange right?

Now lets take a pic by moving the lightsource and changing the angle....
60709

Still think it's orange? ;)

The reason why it looks orange isn't too complicated...the actual coolant is Fiat's orange OAT with chrysler's added purple dye. When it is put into a container that isn't see-through or well lit, the sheen from the original orange coolant comes through which is why it looks orange on the surface. If you
suck a little out using a turkey baster, you will quickly see that it's purple. Think of it as a VERY ANNOYING optical illusion.

Now, why you should care....mixing the two yields to catastrophic results...if you catch it early enough, you may be able to squeak by with a quick and painful flush...however, if you run it for a little while (a month+) you can completely destroy your system by completely clogging it up.

This is what happens when you mix glycol based coolant (HOAT, 99% of coolant in stores, etc) with OAT....

60711

The part number for OAT is 68163849AA

Here is a TSB from Chrysler:



To sum up....

If you own a 2012 and DOWN...you can run Chrysler HOAT coolant or any other Chrysler approved HOAT. There aren't many on the market, and the price is basically the same as chrysler's, so for warranty sake, run the OEM stuff. You need to make sure that if you buy from the dealer, you are getting HOAT coolant (blue cap, 100K mile, orange, $14 pricetag) and if the dealer is refilling yours for free, make SURE you tell them to use HOAT....OAT is your only kryptonite.

If you own a 2013 and up, you MUST USE Chrysler OAT coolant. If you are out on the trail, and need to top off, use distilled water to limp you home, do NOT use coolant from your buddy's truck, etc. If you are the kind of wheeler that carries spare fluids, carry a bottle of OAT with you. If you absolutely MUST use glycol based coolant, flush it out ASAP as soon as you get back home, and refill with the correct coolant. When at the dealer purchasing, make sure you are walking home with the correct bottle (black cap, purple, 10 year 150K label and expensive) and if they are topping off, inform them that you want to make sure they use OAT coolant.


I hope this post helps some members along the way!

Dave

noroad
10-20-2015, 07:09 PM
So side note I bought some the other day and it was a black cap (I have a 2012) part #68048953AB and it is the right type for a full gallon. Not sure what color cap a full gallon of the other stuff is?(13+) But just figured I would put it out there, as I almost freaked out after putting some in and a friend telling me it was the wrong type because of the black cap(but it was 12- and pink/orange)

Soylent
10-20-2015, 07:27 PM
Took mine into the dealer and they replaced the thermostat housing and hose. No leak now. Regarding the HOAT versus OAT. They said that they checked with Chrysler and said that many of the early 2013s came with the orange HOAT and that it will be fine. I guess the important think is to know what is in your system and watch anybody that comes near it like a hawk.

Devallee
10-21-2015, 01:07 AM
I have an 09 and would like to know a good way to flush the cooling system. I can't find anything too informative online and I think I might have messed up. I had orange in there and had a serious coolant leak (that's now resolved) and put the green prestone in as an emergency (also my first time using anything other than orange) so I want to flush it and top it off with the right stuff

uberc4
12-19-2015, 12:58 PM
Awesome info! Thank you for taking the time to write it up. Would have figured they took the same coolant. I will keep this in mind when I need to add coolant next time or on the trail. :thumb:

Supertav
12-26-2015, 10:23 PM
I just joined this forum today 12/26/2015 and started reading some tech forums, and the information provided here has saved me from potential mistake using the wrong coolant for my JKRU and for possible engine failure! These type of information is so important to Jeep owners and other Chrysler owners a like that you would think Chrysler Corp's consumer responsiblity is to notify Chrysler owners about this critical info, but I do not recall ever receiving such information from Chrysler or from my local dealership. Again, thank you for such valuable information.
If you are interested in finding other safety information about your Jeep, you can visit the National Highway and Safety Administration website at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues.

Again, thank you for sharing!

SullivanM08
01-04-2016, 11:17 PM
Hey guys, I haven't seen a thread like this here, so I would like to post it up...if the higher powers find it useful enough, I think it should be a sticky, as a very innocent move can cause HAVOC on your entire cooling system/motor.....THIS IS BECOMING A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND WILL ONLY GET WORSE...DEALERS DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING AND ARE JUST DUMPING IN WHATEVER COOLANT IS ON-HAND.

Ok, first thing is first...there are two types of coolants used on the JK....HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology,) and OAT (Organic Additive Technology.)

The first thing you need to tattoo in your brain is this.....THESE TWO COOLANTS DO NOT MIX, AND A CHEMICAL REACTION WILL CAUSE IT TO GEL (more on this later.)

JK's 2012 and down use HOAT coolant and 2013+ use OAT coolant. DO NOT COUNT ON THE DEALER KNOWING WHICH COOLANT YOUR RIG TAKES. CHANCES ARE THEY WILL PUT IN THE WRONG ONE, SO IF GETTING SERVICE, MAKE CERTAIN THE CORRECT COOLANT IS USED!

How to tell the difference...For whatever reason, chrysler doesnt label them as HOAT/OAT so you need to know the signs to make sure you are getting the correct one....

60695

The first thing you are going to notice is the color....OAT (13+) is purple and HOAT (12-) is orange. The second thing you'll notice is that the HOAT coolant is rated for 5 years and 100K miles while the OAT is rated at 10 years 150K miles. The third thing you need to know is that the cap on the OAT is black while the cap on the HOAT is blue. The fourth thing you will know (not from the pic) is that OAT is priced like gold. It is $50-$60 a gallon (yes you read that right) so unless you have an emergency, buy it online, where it goes from $29 a gallon or so. If you go to the dealer to buy OAT, and the price is too cheap, they gave you the wrong one.

A little background on the color so that the next part makes sense to you guys....As we know, FIAT is with Chrysler now. Fiat has been using orange colored OAT for years. When Chrysler switched to OAT, they didn't want dealers/people getting confused, so to differentiate the new OAT coolant with the chrysler original orange HOAT, they added a purple dye. As a result, due to a weird light refraction, the purple OAT looks weird (even orange) when looked at certain angles. You can even pop open your radiator cap on your 14 and the coolant looks so orange you'd bet me your jeep that it's orange....but it isn't.

You saw the pic above, now compare it to this pic....(same purple OAT)
60704

Don't believe me yet? Check this out...open the overflow bottle, and you might see this....
60707

Orange? You would definitely bet me your PR44 that it's orange right?

Now lets take a pic by moving the lightsource and changing the angle....
60709

Still think it's orange? ;)

The reason why it looks orange isn't too complicated...the actual coolant is Fiat's orange OAT with chrysler's added purple dye. When it is put into a container that isn't see-through or well lit, the sheen from the original orange coolant comes through which is why it looks orange on the surface. If you
suck a little out using a turkey baster, you will quickly see that it's purple. Think of it as a VERY ANNOYING optical illusion.

Now, why you should care....mixing the two yields to catastrophic results...if you catch it early enough, you may be able to squeak by with a quick and painful flush...however, if you run it for a little while (a month+) you can completely destroy your system by completely clogging it up.

This is what happens when you mix glycol based coolant (HOAT, 99% of coolant in stores, etc) with OAT....

60711

The part number for OAT is 68163849AA

Here is a TSB from Chrysler:



To sum up....

If you own a 2012 and DOWN...you can run Chrysler HOAT coolant or any other Chrysler approved HOAT. There aren't many on the market, and the price is basically the same as chrysler's, so for warranty sake, run the OEM stuff. You need to make sure that if you buy from the dealer, you are getting HOAT coolant (blue cap, 100K mile, orange, $14 pricetag) and if the dealer is refilling yours for free, make SURE you tell them to use HOAT....OAT is your only kryptonite.

If you own a 2013 and up, you MUST USE Chrysler OAT coolant. If you are out on the trail, and need to top off, use distilled water to limp you home, do NOT use coolant from your buddy's truck, etc. If you are the kind of wheeler that carries spare fluids, carry a bottle of OAT with you. If you absolutely MUST use glycol based coolant, flush it out ASAP as soon as you get back home, and refill with the correct coolant. When at the dealer purchasing, make sure you are walking home with the correct bottle (black cap, purple, 10 year 150K label and expensive) and if they are topping off, inform them that you want to make sure they use OAT coolant.


I hope this post helps some members along the way!

Dave

2015 JKUR W/5500 on the odometer...
Noticed fluids were getting low for engine coolant was gonna top them off, noticed purple/orange color before I went into store to buy a jug... quickly reverted to Fourms just in case it mattered, never cared in the past always went with 50/50...
After seeing this I have been to two stores including auto zone to find me some OAT. I walked in there with a conversation of HOAT vs. OAT they completely thought I was messing with them. I told them to look up what my model called for and their system had no recommendations for what was on the shelf. Have plenty to hold me off quite a while but am defently curious to why they are clueless on this topic. The jugs say nothing about HOAT vs. OAT besides jug description above. They thought this was a good prank to call another store on lol! Will be going with the Molar to play it safe. Jk fourm and WF fourm were "kinda" clueless too btw might need to push this their way get a sticky! Unless I didn't search hard enough.

Thanks for the info guys!

Tks66
01-16-2016, 12:49 AM
Don't know if mine was from dealer topping off with wrong coolant, but I'm really happy I decided to go with the lifetime warranty ( got it for a little over cost from a dealer on another forum ) The heat on my 13 JKU 77k miles has been not so hot lately, so took it in and notified them regarding the HOAT/OAT issue as well Sure enough the system is full of sludge and I am getting a new heater core, radiator, oil cooler etc. Hope not too much damage has been done, but really glad it's getting taken care of

JeepJeep75
01-16-2016, 01:35 AM
Don't know if mine was from dealer topping off with wrong coolant, but I'm really happy I decided to go with the lifetime warranty ( got it for a little over cost from a dealer on another forum ) The heat on my 13 JKU 77k miles has been not so hot lately, so took it in and notified them regarding the HOAT/OAT issue as well Sure enough the system is full of sludge and I am getting a new heater core, radiator, oil cooler etc. Hope not too much damage has been done, but really glad it's getting taken care of

That's awesome Tks66. Glad your warranty paid for itself already. Welcome to WAL. Stop by the Give Us A Wave section and introduce yourself.

Sola_Christos
02-27-2016, 06:08 AM
Thank you for the info my good man!

DELIVERANCE
03-15-2016, 06:41 PM
My sons Nat Geo Kids magazine has this little article that I thought fit this thread pretty well.
193200

jeep670
03-15-2016, 10:09 PM
Thanks OP. Amazing info!

Brutuss
05-12-2016, 03:11 PM
I have a 2012 with the newer 3.6L VVT motor and I thought the motor was the same 12-14? This thread says 2012 and older take the orange fluid. So the 3.6L and the 3.8L use the same fluid? I would think they are different. The auto parts place gave me basic 50/50 fluid which I am going to return. I just want to be sure I have the correct coolant.

So I just went to the Dealership and they sold me the Orange stuff. They said eventually all the cars will use the purple in the future. I asked if there was any difference in the motor that would change which fluid you used (since 2012-13 had same motor but different fluids) He said nope. He also told me that I could use either orange or purple as long as the entire system is flushed and changed.

13_gecko_rubi
05-12-2016, 03:13 PM
What they told you in all regards is correct.

NFRs2000NYC
05-13-2016, 10:03 PM
I have a 2012 with the newer 3.6L VVT motor and I thought the motor was the same 12-14? This thread says 2012 and older take the orange fluid. So the 3.6L and the 3.8L use the same fluid? I would think they are different. The auto parts place gave me basic 50/50 fluid which I am going to return. I just want to be sure I have the correct coolant.

So I just went to the Dealership and they sold me the Orange stuff. They said eventually all the cars will use the purple in the future. I asked if there was any difference in the motor that would change which fluid you used (since 2012-13 had same motor but different fluids) He said nope. He also told me that I could use either orange or purple as long as the entire system is flushed and changed.

Correct...you can run EITHER coolant, you just need to make sure it's flushed 100% and they are never mixed.

HoneyBadger420
05-14-2016, 06:47 PM
203248

2015 JKUS - The picture above is the coolant I pulled to check color from the reserve tank before refilling. Based off what's being said here I would assume that is the purple / purple pink OAT from factory. My jeep only has 10k miles so I would assume that is original to the Jeep and not added at the last oil change by the dealership.

To fill up the engine coolant would you all agree that getting the MOPAR factory coolant from the dealer or online to be the best for the Jeep?

Would you not trust anything from Autozone or Advanced Auto?

Thanks again!!

JonJon99
05-14-2016, 07:20 PM
Hello! New member here!

I have a 2015 JKUR HR. I bought it used with about 8k miles 3 months ago. I have been noticing that it is running a bit hotter than usual sine last week. I checked the coolant reservoir this morning and it is an inch above the minimum level. I wanted to top it off but decided to check the forums to find the best coolant for it. Thank god I did! After checking the type of coolant I have. It is definately orange when drawing and putting in a clear container. How acute is the reaction when HOAT and OAT are mixed? I do not see any sludge or anything unusal in both radiator and reservoir. Is it a good idea to get the system flushed? Thanks for this informative thread.

NFRs2000NYC
05-14-2016, 10:11 PM
203248

2015 JKUS - The picture above is the coolant I pulled to check color from the reserve tank before refilling. Based off what's being said here I would assume that is the purple / purple pink OAT from factory. My jeep only has 10k miles so I would assume that is original to the Jeep and not added at the last oil change by the dealership.

To fill up the engine coolant would you all agree that getting the MOPAR factory coolant from the dealer or online to be the best for the Jeep?

Would you not trust anything from Autozone or Advanced Auto?

Thanks again!!

No, get the OEM stuff from a Jeep dealer.

NFRs2000NYC
05-14-2016, 10:13 PM
Hello! New member here!

I have a 2015 JKUR HR. I bought it used with about 8k miles 3 months ago. I have been noticing that it is running a bit hotter than usual sine last week. I checked the coolant reservoir this morning and it is an inch above the minimum level. I wanted to top it off but decided to check the forums to find the best coolant for it. Thank god I did! After checking the type of coolant I have. It is definately orange when drawing and putting in a clear container. How acute is the reaction when HOAT and OAT are mixed? I do not see any sludge or anything unusal in both radiator and reservoir. Is it a good idea to get the system flushed? Thanks for this informative thread.

Have the dealer top it off and tell them to verify which fluid is in there, so that the responsibility is on them IF your cooling system develops issues. Don't do it yourself otherwise they will just blame you.

JonJon99
05-15-2016, 07:39 PM
Have the dealer top it off and tell them to verify which fluid is in there, so that the responsibility is on them IF your cooling system develops issues. Don't do it yourself otherwise they will just blame you.

Thanks for the quick reply! I'll do that.

Ozon8r
05-27-2016, 09:36 PM
FYI...Just picked up some coolant from the jeep dealer for my '14 jk and they gave me OAT 10 year 150,000 mile coolant part # 68163848AB. I asked three times if this was the right coolant and the parts guy new without me saying why I was concerned. Paid $35 with sales tax.

8POUND
06-02-2016, 07:25 PM
Stopped bt the dealer to buy a lower hose and coolant for my rig. OAT type, 10 yr/150K miles, black cap and purple color verified. Thanks for the heads up everyone. Paid $25 for the gallon of concentrate. Will do a 50/50 mix with distilled water.

scottmcwms
06-11-2016, 07:10 PM
Just FYI, I just bought a bottle of the HOAT (orange) PN #68048953AB from the dealer and it had a black cap. So that doesn't match with what the OP said. I guess they ran out of blue caps! Oh and by the way, this is what the parts guy at the dealer gave me for my 2013 Wrangler. In his defense he opened the radiator cap to check the color and it looked orange so he gave me the HOAT. After researching a little further it looks like he gave me the wrong stuff.
207754

Zerofaith
06-12-2016, 03:30 AM
Great information thanks !

Clutch
06-14-2016, 09:20 PM
I'm seeing alot of discussion about coolant colors being misleading due to light infractions, maybe a good test would be draw a small sample and mix your OAT or HOAT coolant and watch for reaction.

However, if this is done how long would it take to see gel form if different coolants were mixed?

utiadam
06-14-2016, 09:40 PM
Stopped bt the dealer to buy a lower hose and coolant for my rig. OAT type, 10 yr/150K miles, black cap and purple color verified. Thanks for the heads up everyone. Paid $25 for the gallon of concentrate. Will do a 50/50 mix with distilled water.

Awesome! Last time i flushed mine they didn't have concentrate. I was forced to buy 3 gallons of 50/50.

Frydaddy
06-14-2016, 10:11 PM
I'm seeing alot of discussion about coolant colors being misleading due to light infractions, maybe a good test would be draw a small sample and mix your OAT or HOAT coolant and watch for reaction.

However, if this is done how long would it take to see gel form if different coolants were mixed?

This is a good idea! Autozone suggested to me Pentofrost A4, but the description contradicts itself further...


Pentofrost A4 is a phosphated organic acid technology (phosphated OAT); which is categorized as HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) in the US market. Pentofrost A4 is suitable for all Asian vehicles using pink Antifreeze/Coolant.

8POUND
06-14-2016, 11:05 PM
Awesome! Last time i flushed mine they didn't have concentrate. I was forced to buy 3 gallons of 50/50.

I was lucky when I picked mine up. I had the service consultant, a technician and the parts guy all come out to my rig to verify it was the right coolant. I didn't want any issues. Plus, they pulled a sample of my coolant to make sure.

Wittys-JK
06-15-2016, 06:39 PM
Big thank you to the OP and all of the different feed back that was shared in this thread. I recently had to replace my radiator due to it being cracked and I happened along this thread just before the swap and avoided a lot of confusion and mix-ups later. All went well and I ended up buying the HOAT (orang-ish) coolant from the dealer at $15 each for the 50/50 HOAT mix from Mopar. :thumb:

208364208365208366

mls0780
06-28-2016, 04:03 PM
Just FYI, I just bought a bottle of the HOAT (orange) PN #68048953AB from the dealer and it had a black cap. So that doesn't match with what the OP said. I guess they ran out of blue caps! Oh and by the way, this is what the parts guy at the dealer gave me for my 2013 Wrangler. In his defense he opened the radiator cap to check the color and it looked orange so he gave me the HOAT. After researching a little further it looks like he gave me the wrong stuff.
207754

Bought the same today for my 07. I asked a couple of times about the cap color since they don't label it as HOAT or OAT anywhere on the bottle. He verified the part number and showed me on the computer as well. This is the concentrate though, correct?

OSCAR82AA
07-07-2016, 09:44 PM
Have to get some coolant for my 2015 Sahara tomorrow and I am so glad I found and read this first.
Had no idea so it would have been a 50/50 chance on getting it wrong and hurting my engine.
Thanks very much

dpowell5523
08-11-2016, 05:33 PM
I have a 13 and did a flush and made sure all the old coolant was out and put in the orange Prestone coolant recommended by Oreilly's. Do I need to switch, or am I ok since I did a flush first.

TrainWreck618
08-11-2016, 05:38 PM
I have a 13 and did a flush and made sure all the old coolant was out and put in the orange Prestone coolant recommended by Oreilly's. Do I need to switch, or am I ok since I did a flush first.

Just curious, Why did you do a flush?

Stotch
08-11-2016, 07:02 PM
I just topped mine of with some Prestone coolant that I already had. It says. "Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant is compatible with ANY antifreeze/ coolant regardless of color for use in ALL makes and models of cars and light duty trucks."

Then I saw this thread... Did I screw up?

NFRs2000NYC
08-15-2016, 03:29 PM
You have a 2009?

Stotch
08-15-2016, 04:41 PM
You have a 2009?

Yeah, I've checked it since and I don't see any signs of a bad reaction...

NFRs2000NYC
08-16-2016, 02:30 AM
Yeah, I've checked it since and I don't see any signs of a bad reaction...

Signs wouldn't appear for a while, but you're fine.

madstiles
09-04-2016, 08:41 PM
Thanks for the great info!

Kilroy
09-05-2016, 01:23 AM
I just topped mine of with some Prestone coolant that I already had. It says. "Prestone[emoji768] Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant is compatible with ANY antifreeze/ coolant regardless of color for use in ALL makes and models of cars and light duty trucks."

Then I saw this thread... Did I screw up?

That uses a compatible between hoat and oat it's fine.

Kilroy
09-05-2016, 01:27 AM
I have a 13 and did a flush and made sure all the old coolant was out and put in the orange Prestone coolant recommended by Oreilly's. Do I need to switch, or am I ok since I did a flush first.

As long as it is a full flush you can change and use oat or hoat.

SPOOOBY
10-18-2016, 01:12 AM
I heard they do not have the blue caps anymore,all there antifreze now has black caps so know the part numbers,if i heard wrong please correct me

SPOOOBY
10-18-2016, 01:21 AM
[attach=config]227536

tanmanjk
10-19-2016, 01:59 AM
Glad I came across this post. I'm gonna look at my overfill res tomorrow.

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10abadilla/jk
10-19-2016, 04:55 AM
Great write up. Thank you.

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tanmanjk
10-19-2016, 10:48 AM
Was reading this morning not sure that it's true or not, but that the new zerex dexcool is in fact oat and compatible for 2013+ jk motors.
From a warranty standpoint I get the need for them to see purple coolant in your vehicle, but if it's the same thing minus the dye, no harm no foul, right?

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Frydaddy
10-19-2016, 10:21 PM
Was reading this morning not sure that it's true or not, but that the new zerex dexcool is in fact oat and compatible for 2013+ jk motors.
From a warranty standpoint I get the need for them to see purple coolant in your vehicle, but if it's the same thing minus the dye, no harm no foul, right?

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The purple dye was a half-arsed idea. Yea, it distinguishes the different fluids... but not always.

If you shine a light down into the reservoir, the dye won't reflect, and you will see orange. If you shine a light THROUGH the coolant, the dye will work then.
This is brand new OAT full concentrate. As it is used, the purple hue begins to look a dirty pink, almost orange as well.
227792

OSCAR82AA
10-19-2016, 11:12 PM
I read this like a year ago and that post saved my butt too. Hope this saves alot more Jeep lovers now. Thanks

sparks
10-24-2016, 01:11 PM
Thanks for the info. Picked up a '14 Sahara and planned on changing fluids (oil, trans/transfer, diff, coolant) this weekend so I can make sure the correct stuff is in there... and changed on a regular basis



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SPOOOBY
10-24-2016, 08:12 PM
Id drain then dexcool if it were me,save you 50$


If your not living and having fun,your dead already

Frydaddy
10-24-2016, 10:04 PM
Id drain then dexcool if it were me,save you 50$
If your not living and having fun,your dead already

There could be more to it though. If you are going for a full drain, you cant. short of pulling freeze plugs, even pulling the lower coolant hose will only remove half of the coolant.

If you want to start fresh, you have to flush it multiple times to get all the old coolant out of it. Use distilled water and run it up to temperature so the thermostat opens as well. Some may also run their heater as well.

SPOOOBY
10-24-2016, 10:51 PM
Your rite[emoji115]


If your not living and having fun,your dead already

mastrcruse
11-20-2016, 09:20 PM
Had a bad radiator in my 14 and the dealership replaced it. It tells me to use item # 68163849AB and this is what the same dealership sold me several months back when I was low on coolant. Fast forward to the radiator replacement and they put in 68163848AB. Not sure the difference between 49AB and 48AB but they seem to both be OAT. Looks like they might just be UOM sold.

Can anyone verify this for me?

WJCO
11-20-2016, 09:30 PM
Had a bad radiator in my 14 and the dealership replaced it. It tells me to use item # 68163849AB and this is what the same dealership sold me several months back when I was low on coolant. Fast forward to the radiator replacement and they put in 68163848AB. Not sure the difference between 49AB and 48AB but they seem to both be OAT. Looks like they might just be UOM sold.

Can anyone verify this for me?

I would check with the parts department at the dealer. A lot of times, parts can be updated and the part number will be superseded by another number.

mastrcruse
11-21-2016, 01:05 AM
I would check with the parts department at the dealer. A lot of times, parts can be updated and the part number will be superseded by another number.

Ah good idea...didn't think of that. During a search, both seem to come up as OAT.

Frydaddy
11-21-2016, 04:19 PM
Ah good idea...didn't think of that. During a search, both seem to come up as OAT.

The 48AB is full concentrate, the 49AB is 50/50 premix.

If you even need to buy more, get the full concentrate and use distilled water from any grocery store of your choosing.

mastrcruse
11-22-2016, 03:07 AM
The 48AB is full concentrate, the 49AB is 50/50 premix.

If you even need to buy more, get the full concentrate and use distilled water from any grocery store of your choosing.

Thanks...appreciate it.

ELBRAVO
11-28-2016, 08:34 PM
Great Post! I own a 2013 JK 10A Rubicon. I went to my dealer's part department and put in my VIN number to make sure it was the correct part number. They may charge you more than expected but it is worth to have peace of mind.

I utilize the (left over fluid) to maintain the proper level. I also utilized a Silver permanent marker and put the OAT reference / reminder on the top of my radiator.

Stay safe,


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RioGrandeJK
03-24-2017, 06:44 PM
Great info, this is why I went to the dealer's parts dept and asked them to look up what my particular vehicle takes. Always save receipts if there is a problem down the road you have a record. They gave me the 150K (purple-ish) stuff for my 2014. Pretty sure it was only $25 bucks or so, not sure where the OP got that price info.

Frydaddy
03-24-2017, 07:49 PM
Great info, this is why I went to the dealer's parts dept and asked them to look up what my particular vehicle takes. Always save receipts if there is a problem down the road you have a record. They gave me the 150K (purple-ish) stuff for my 2014. Pretty sure it was only $25 bucks or so, not sure where the OP got that price info.

Well it was four years ago, when this stuff was new to the market.

Rocksalt
03-24-2017, 08:59 PM
very important! thanks for sharing!


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Clark Griswold
04-22-2017, 05:36 PM
254568
I got the dreaded loss of heat on the drivers side, went to Chrysler and they said my coolants been mixed and I need a new radiator, heater core and oil cooler for the sum of $2k plus the unknowns of having your Jeep ripped apart. The only place I ever had coolant added was Valvoline and they advised me their Maxlife coolant mixed with everything except BMW. It certainly didn't appear there was any gelling or corrosion evident in the system so to be safe I had the whole system flushed and filled with Maxlife, still no heat on drivers side. Today I reverse flushed the heater core (line to water pump is where you hook up hose) and in the picture you can see what came out of the initial flush, once the coolant was all flushed out I continued to flush in both directions with hot water a few times, blew out the water and refilled the core with Maxlife, burped the system and for now I have full heat again. There might have been more crap in there but I didn't have any more containers. Hope this helps anyone if they have the same issue, I will post up again if I lose heat again, hoping this is it.

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HighwayTrout
04-22-2017, 05:40 PM
I got the dreaded loss of heat on the drivers side, went to Chrysler and they said my coolants been mixed and I need a new radiator, heater core and oil cooler for the sum of $2k plus the unknowns of having your Jeep ripped apart. The only place I ever had coolant added was Valvoline and they advised me their Maxlife coolant mixed with everything except BMW. It certainly didn't appear there was any gelling or corrosion evident in the system so to be safe I had the whole system flushed and filled with Maxlife, still no heat on drivers side. Today I reverse flushed the heater core (line to water pump is where you hook up hose) and in the picture you can see what came out of the initial flush, once the coolant was all flushed out I continued to flush in both directions with hot water a few times, blew out the water and refilled the core with Maxlife, burped the system and for now I have full heat again. There might have been more crap in there but I didn't have any more containers. Hope this helps anyone if they have the same issue, I will post up again if I lose heat again, hoping this is it.

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Glad it all worked out for you. I've been needing to do this for a long time. I haven't had heat on my drivers side for awhile.

Clark Griswold
04-22-2017, 06:10 PM
Glad it all worked out for you. I've been needing to do this for a long time. I haven't had heat on my drivers side for awhile.
I went for the better part of 2 winters as well, just did a lot of research before I dug in too deep, hope it stays this way!!

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TomDabb
05-08-2017, 01:46 AM
I have a 2013 / great advise and thanks for reposting.
Purple color - black cap - $$$.
Got it!


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Mybadjk
05-08-2017, 02:39 AM
Does this affect any running problems? I looked and I have orange coolant and I have a 13' jk


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Mybadjk
05-08-2017, 02:50 AM
Does this affect any running problems? I looked and I have orange coolant and I have a 13' jk


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Locosims
05-18-2017, 04:05 PM
Just bought the HOAT coolant MS - 9769G (part # 68048953AB) . Cap is black... Just a heads up....

Rocksalt
05-18-2017, 04:17 PM
I heard they do not have the blue caps anymore,all there antifreze now has black caps so know the part numbers,if i heard wrong please correct me

I purchased Gallon of the OAT and it had a black cap. I poured some into a glass just to be sure it is purple.


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deezus
05-31-2017, 11:35 PM
Almost had a heart attack, called the dealership these are the same!
69163848aa
69163848ab

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naysjp
06-09-2017, 02:49 AM
Almost had a heart attack, called the dealership these are the same!
69163848aa
69163848ab

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Just experienced this today. The 69163848ab supersedes the first number. I read this article AGAIN, had two different people check the part number. I purchased this part number which is a 50/50 blend for $23.00/gal at the dealership here in San Diego. I was first told by another Jeeper that it was $60 from a dealership so I was prepared to pay that. Very grateful that she told me I had to get Mopar coolant for this JK as I grew up in a household that used Prestone. Nice it was available locally while I waited for an oil change.

deezus
06-09-2017, 05:18 AM
Just experienced this today. The 69163848ab supersedes the first number. I read this article AGAIN, had two different people check the part number. I purchased this part number which is a 50/50 blend for $23.00/gal at the dealership here in San Diego. I was first told by another Jeeper that it was $60 from a dealership so I was prepared to pay that. Very grateful that she told me I had to get Mopar coolant for this JK as I grew up in a household that used Prestone. Nice it was available locally while I waited for an oil change.
Its actually concentrated. That means you have to mix it with water.

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Frydaddy
06-09-2017, 03:20 PM
The last letter is the revision. It applies to most of Mopar. The first 8 numbers are what to look at.



2013+ Wranglers 3.6L
68163848AB is full concentrate OAT
68163849AB is 50/50 premix OAT

2012- Wranglers 3.8L
68048953AB Full Concentrate HOAT
68051212AB 50/50 HOAT


I would recommend full concentrate, and cut it yourself with distilled water from the grocery store, to save some cash.

naysjp
06-11-2017, 06:00 AM
The last letter is the revision. It applies to most of Mopar. The first 8 numbers are what to look at.



I would recommend full concentrate, and cut it yourself with distilled water from the grocery store, to save some cash.

I got the premix - 68163849AB (OAT) for my 2014. It was $21 plus tax so I just purchased it. Seems easier to just pour than mixing stuff. I am even going to write OAT on my fill bottle.

Frydaddy
06-12-2017, 03:24 PM
I got the premix - 68163849AB (OAT) for my 2014. It was $21 plus tax so I just purchased it. Seems easier to just pour than mixing stuff. I am even going to write OAT on my fill bottle.

If only they could put those THREE FUCKING LETTERS (sometimes four) on the side of the damn bottle from the factory! Gosh i hate big business.

naysjp
06-15-2017, 03:01 AM
If only they could put those THREE FUCKING LETTERS (sometimes four) on the side of the damn bottle from the factory! Gosh i hate big business.

You are so right. Then again, that makes too much sense. LOL

ditterdame
06-21-2017, 09:44 AM
264500

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ditterdame
06-21-2017, 09:51 AM
264501

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ditterdame
06-21-2017, 09:54 AM
Ooops..not sure how to use this format.. I need to delete one. Sorry.
But I felt this was great info...so thought I would buy some... and this is what Amazon says.... so not sure of myself

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Frydaddy
06-22-2017, 01:27 AM
Ooops..not sure how to use this format.. I need to delete one. Sorry.
But I felt this was great info...so thought I would buy some... and this is what Amazon says.... so not sure of myself

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The 150,000 mile stuff is the OAT. This is one of the few things i would be caught dead at the dealership for. They always have it available, and somewhat reasonably priced. Just get it from them.

Clifford33
06-22-2017, 02:02 PM
Wow very helpful thread. Now I have a few questions. So I'm low on coolant in my 2009 unlimited JK. And as described I would use the blue cap HOAT coolant ORANGE color. Now there is orange coolant in it now it's just low so I would like to top it off but being i bought the jeep used Idk if it's factory coolant or not will it be best to flush it all out and replace with factory coolant so I know for sure or just top it off with the orange coolant. Also is there a difference from gm orange coolant and mopars HOAT orange coolant would it be bad to mix the 2?


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Frydaddy
06-23-2017, 12:20 AM
Wow very helpful thread. Now I have a few questions. So I'm low on coolant in my 2009 unlimited JK. And as described I would use the blue cap HOAT coolant ORANGE color. Now there is orange coolant in it now it's just low so I would like to top it off but being i bought the jeep used Idk if it's factory coolant or not will it be best to flush it all out and replace with factory coolant so I know for sure or just top it off with the orange coolant. Also is there a difference from gm orange coolant and mopars HOAT orange coolant would it be bad to mix the 2?


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The cap colors were a short-lived thing. The original post needs updated to reflect the current situation.

Don't just look down into the rad to see the color, you need to shine light THROUGH it to see its true color, but yea, yours should be orange HOAT.

Not sure about GM orange stuff, Im just too afraid of this new stuff to risk ruining everything on a hunch.

ditterdame
06-24-2017, 06:37 PM
The 150,000 mile stuff is the OAT. This is one of the few things i would be caught dead at the dealership for. They always have it available, and somewhat reasonably priced. Just get it from them.
Thanks. Will do [emoji2]

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kirlax09
09-05-2017, 05:45 PM
The 150,000 mile stuff is the OAT. This is one of the few things i would be caught dead at the dealership for. They always have it available, and somewhat reasonably priced. Just get it from them.

I totally agree and thank you for this thread. I just went to the dealer and picked up the OAT stuff for $22 (pretty much the same price as it was on Amazon) for my 2016 JK. I didn't want to second guess anything because my owner's manual says to get "OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032". I couldn't find that anywhere online. The dealer said the same thing as others online that MS-12106 was the same thing. They said it was the purple fluid.

wanderer
10-17-2017, 10:51 PM
What would happen if You had an 08 as I do. and you had a new radiator put in a year ago and they switched you coolant from Hoat, to OAT ? I am wondering about this as the dealer did a radiator flush then a a few months later my Jeep sated to run just a bit hotter during the winter and now in the summer is seeming to run even hotter> see mother posts."RUNNING HOT"

NFRs2000NYC
10-18-2017, 04:19 AM
Original post updated to reflect change in caps. Both types now use black caps.

wv14jk
10-19-2017, 09:30 PM
Great info, this is why you join a reputable site.

NevadaZielmeister
11-18-2017, 05:29 PM
This is great to know. I am buying some coolant today and I am glad to know which one is right. Thank you.

sipafz
11-18-2017, 08:46 PM
Im glad that this was brought back to the top. I bought some coolant last week for our 2011 Liberty, Mopar 5 (HOAT). I knew that our 2016 Wrangler was different, Mopar 10 (OAT), but didnt realize how different. Thanks for the heads up NFRs!

14JKURX88
11-30-2017, 05:18 PM
Has anyone had the dealership put incorrect coolant? Im having an issue and when I looked at my history record back in 2016 incorrect coolant was put in and then in 2017 they put in the correct coolant. The dealer now wants to charge me for a new heater core claiming it is clogged. Any suggestions on what to do?


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timberwoof
12-27-2017, 11:16 PM
Can a coolant flush be done and it changed over to the green stuff?


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19YJ94
12-27-2017, 11:27 PM
I just stopped at the dealership today, and priced full strength at $22 per gallon, and 50/50 at $15 per gallon. Didn't know they had 50/50. Going to pick up a couple, just to keep around.

vicaven
01-11-2018, 04:43 PM
awesome info. glad I found it. almost topped off with 50/50 green peak from advance. used water instead. I got confused when I looked in the reservoir bottle and it looked orange. SO GLAD I FOUND THIS FIRST. thanks.

Clark Griswold
01-17-2018, 11:22 AM
Update, after flushing the heater core and the rest of the coolant in the system with Valvoline I still have heat like when it was new so guess I got lucky with minimal sand. Just recently replaced HVAC control as well as it was kind of out of control, all is perfect now.

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Clutch
01-23-2018, 01:07 AM
I just went to check out the HOAT vs OAT thing and it is really hard to tell which one is used. Like really hard. Early its mentioned that a 2013 must use OAT, why is that? What is different about the 12 vs 13?


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frogmaster34
02-02-2018, 11:01 PM
i am in process of changing out my thermostat 2012 wrangler for the p0128 fault, and then of course the ECTS. ZEREX G05 now has 5yr/150k on the label 50/50 prediluted and say HOAT on the back label, along with the fact that is approved OEM replacement for 2002-2012 jeeps.

timberwoof
02-03-2018, 12:44 AM
Quick question: I just tore the motor apart on my 09 JKU, and the coolant was all green. My guess is, one of the previous owners switched it over.

Should I stay with the green or should I flush and go back to the stock coolant?


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TRLJNKY
02-03-2018, 01:49 AM
Quick question: I just tore the motor apart on my 09 JKU, and the coolant was all green. My guess is, one of the previous owners switched it over.

Should I stay with the green or should I flush and go back to the stock coolant?


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Id flush it really good and go back OEM. I believe the new stuff has additives to help with corrosion on all the aluminim components. Better safe than sorry. You already drained the coolant at this point if your all torn down

brah
02-26-2018, 10:10 PM
My thermostat housing blew over the weekend, I pulled over to a gas station and my coolant tank was empty. I poured in some Peak coolant/antifreeze and limped it home. Mechanic said water pump is leaking now (probably from it overheating after the housing bursted). Im tying to figure out what caused this...did I use the wrong coolant?

Previous to this, I was topping off with Prestone every once in a while. I figured some fluid probably leaked out while wheeling.

So now in my tank I have a mix of Mopar, Prestone and Peak. Any idea if these mix?

WJCO
02-26-2018, 10:12 PM
My thermostat housing blew over the weekend, I pulled over to a gas station and my coolant tank was empty. I poured in some Peak coolant/antifreeze and limped it home. Mechanic said water pump is leaking now (probably from it overheating after the housing bursted). Im tying to figure out what caused this...did I use the wrong coolant?

Previous to this, I was topping off with Prestone every once in a while. I figured some fluid probably leaked out while wheeling.

So now in my tank I have a mix of Mopar, Prestone and Peak. Any idea if these mix?

How hot did it get? Did gauge go to red? Any lights illuminate on dash?

brah
02-26-2018, 10:26 PM
Gauge got to full red. Lightning bolt light and CEL came on but have since turned off. By the time I toggled through the onboard computer, temp was at 230, but this was after it was parked. Mechanic turned on the car to pull it into the shop and I noticed a couple plumes of white smoke come out the tail pipe (this was the first time it was turned on since it overheated), not sure if that is typical on a cold start (outside air temp was 80, mid humidity). After they replaced the housing, I noticed no more white smoke out the tail pipe.


Should mention this is a 2014 wrangler

Ruddee
07-06-2018, 05:18 PM
Service Tech at dealership here didn't know there was a difference....that's in West Texas...

VScott
08-09-2018, 02:40 AM
You list a different part number for the OAT than whats on the TSB. Yours is 68163848AA and the TSB 68163849AA

MericaMade
08-31-2018, 01:02 AM
This was really good information and I thank you for taking the time to write this up. It might have been answered and sorry If I am asking again, but is there a Preston or Peak Antifreeze/ Coolant that is compatible with the OEM OTA?

Mike11C
10-19-2018, 09:18 PM
This was really good information and I thank you for taking the time to write this up. It might have been answered and sorry If I am asking again, but is there a Preston or Peak Antifreeze/ Coolant that is compatible with the OEM OTA?

A couple of days ago, I added about 8 ounces of Prestone to my 2015 Wrangler. Yesterday, I stumbled into this thread. *GASP* I immediately started searching for info online but, there was way too much conflicting info. One site says you're going to ruin your engine unless you flush it out and refill with Mopar OAT antifreeze while others say, it's fine, just look at the jug, it says "mixes with all colors" and "won't void your warranty". Well, I emailed Prestone and asked them directly. This was their response:

Good Morning Michael,

*The Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant in the yellow jug is an OAT formulation that is fully compatible with the factoy fluid in your Jeep.* They are both ethylene glycol based.* There is no need whatsoever to drain the system.* Please let me know if you require anything further.

*Sincerely,

*Aaron Jones

Prestone Consumer Relations Representative

Phone: 203-731-8191

sipafz
10-20-2018, 02:12 PM
A couple of days ago, I added about 8 ounces of Prestone to my 2015 Wrangler. Yesterday, I stumbled into this thread. *GASP* I immediately started searching for info online but, there was way too much conflicting info. One site says you're going to ruin your engine unless you flush it out and refill with Mopar OAT antifreeze while others say, it's fine, just look at the jug, it says "mixes with all colors" and "won't void your warranty". Well, I emailed Prestone and asked them directly. This was their response:

Good Morning Michael,

*The Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant in the yellow jug is an OAT formulation that is fully compatible with the factoy fluid in your Jeep.* They are both ethylene glycol based.* There is no need whatsoever to drain the system.* Please let me know if you require anything further.

*Sincerely,

*Aaron Jones

Prestone Consumer Relations Representative

Phone: 203-731-8191

I would keep an eye on it! Its not like Aarons going to help you out if it does gel up.

BaddestCross
10-20-2018, 04:06 PM
It's only when you mix HOAT and OAT that causes the gelling to occur. The universal Prestone won't cause a problem.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

MericaMade
10-20-2018, 06:35 PM
Thanks for the update on this.

TrailHunter
12-08-2018, 05:49 PM
Bump..

I never thought Coolant would be so confusing.... I noticed my coolant is a little below the MIN mark on the reservoir and I would like to top it off and have some extra on hand.... Can I not buy something from A local Napa, Autozone etc..? Is the "OAT" only sold at dealerships? Is MOPAR the only one that makes coolant for JK's?

Edit: Just saw this:


It's only when you mix HOAT and OAT that causes the gelling to occur. The universal Prestone won't cause a problem.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

^^^So Prestone is fine then?