E Lockers
- Thread starter jkuone
- Start date
suicideking
New member
You do not need a factory wire harness. It's a simple 12v wire. I have a front Rubi D44 in a Sport. I just have a cheap LED switch to turn on the locker.
suicideking
New member
It's more of a give and take -- If your main priority is to have the best locker, strongest, etc. Then air is the only way to go. If you want to have the most trouble free locker, electric is more reliable, though not as strong.
With an air locker, the air line can get torn, compressor can break, etc.
An ARB will also lock and unlock faster which is most helpful in the front for steering -- You might want to lock to get up an obstacle, then unlock to turn. The Electric will take longer to lock/unlock. So if there's a tight turn at the top, you might have trouble making that turn.
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That was one of the things I was wondering about, how difficult was the swap? That definitely seems like it would be more in my price range rather than buying an ARB kit, etc.
Electric vs Air, that was exactly the info I was looking for Thanks a lot.
suicideking
New member
It's straight forward, just a lot of labor. I had a shop do it, wire up the locker, install sleeve, gussets, diff cover. Definitely less expensive than PR or G2. I'm not planning to go larger than 37's and the shop that did it doesn't see many broken D44's.
:beer:
Hey, F41L I think suicide king had a non-Rubicon electric locker installed in his Sahara. The Rubicon electric lockers are not compatible with Non-Rubicon axle housings or axle shafts and they are more expensive than aftermarket version. If you wanted to do the swap just change the whole axle assembly.
I wouldn't necessarily say the lockers are more reliable either. There are many times when they just won't disengage or engage when you want them to. Driving backwards a bit to disengage them sometimes is not always an option. Etc.
If you can swing it just go for the ARB. Hence the long run comment ^^ axle shafts, housings etc.
If you can swing it just go for the ARB. Hence the long run comment ^^ axle shafts, housings etc.
dhughes
Banned
You can always go with a ox locker with the electric actuator. It operates a cable to engage or disengage the locker. If the actuator or cable breaks you can carry a small manual tool they sell to keep it locked. That way it doesn't screw up you ride.
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suicideking
New member
Not correct: I removed my front D30 and installed a Rubi D44 front which includes the locker. I have an ARB in the rear Sport D44.
Ha! That makes sense because you would of had a D30 front. Sometimes I type faster than I can think.
In response to my question, thanks for the input.....
No you don't need the factory harness. You can buy a harness that connects to the factory locker connector and is made to use with an after market switch in the cab.
Rubicon/Sport axle trade
I have a 2012 Sport Unlimited and my wife has a 2012 Rubicon Unlimited. I'm thinking of trading front and rear axles, so I have the 44 in the front, lockers and the 4:10 gears (on 35s, going to 37s). How difficult would it be to trade them? I have a few guys to help, thankfully.
I have a 2012 Sport Unlimited and my wife has a 2012 Rubicon Unlimited. I'm thinking of trading front and rear axles, so I have the 44 in the front, lockers and the 4:10 gears (on 35s, going to 37s). How difficult would it be to trade them? I have a few guys to help, thankfully.
Atch
New member
It's easy, you'll need to add wiring for your lockers on your sport and 2 programmers (1 for each jeep to adjust for the gear change). Outside of that it's just unbolt & bolt up.