BB or Springs?

I'm starting my work on my 2D JKR build and want to poll the "professionals" for some solid advice.

BB or Springs?

I know you're going to ask the same questions that you ask every new poster, so here they are in advance.

• I plan to run 35" and am looking in the 2" lift range. I want to avoid anything over that so that I can avoid the cost of replacement drivelines. (From what I've read on here, anything over 3" requires a new front drive shaft. I have seen the pics of the mangled OEM stuff, and that is something I don't want to deal with.) I am considering flat fenders so that I can avoid running a body lift and still get the clearances that I would like.
• I did trail runs mostly with my TJ, and now moving into a JK, I expect to do the same. Although, I am not afraid of rocks, and acutally love them, as they are easier to clean up after.
• The Jeep is still my daily driver, so it needs to be streetable after all is said and done.
• (I feel like I'm missing one of those basic questions. I just know it. :grayno: )

I am looking at the JKS 2" kits in particular. The standard kit mainly, but would love to spring for the spec kit with adjustable LCAs, front and rear. The jeep has 85,000 miles on it, so I assume the shocks are worn and the springs probably are as well. In the shock department I am looking at either Bilstein 5100s or Rancho 7000s.

The point I'm going towards here, is that a budget boost is just that. A simple solution for little cost. If I need to replace the shocks already, is it in my best interest to replace the springs as well? Just call it a done deal, preventative maintenance, if you will.

Am I at least on the right track with the 2" kits that I am considering, or are there other kits, for a reasonable price, that I should be looking into?

Thanks in advance for the tips. Really, this JK world is a lot more complicated that I remember the TJ being. :thinking:

since the jeep has so many miles on it i would agree that the shocks and springs and kind of shot so i would look at a spring lift.

as far as shocks go i have the 5100's and it is an awesome ride. but a lot of people have the Ranchos as well and have no complaints about them. so basically its a win win for you on the shocks.

FireWire79 said:

[*]I plan to run 35" and am looking in the 2" lift range. I want to avoid anything over that so that I can avoid the cost of replacement drivelines. (From what I've read on here, anything over 3" requires a new front drive shaft. I have seen the pics of the mangled OEM stuff, and that is something I don't want to deal with.)

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To be clear, on your 2007 2-Door, any 3" lift or more will put your rear drive shaft in a steep enough angle that it will cause it to fail at the joints sooner than later. Of course, in order to install one, you would need adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle. Up front, it's not so much a matter of how high you go but rather, how long of a shock you run and only if you have an automatic. If you do, and you do install a shock that offers too much droop, your front shaft will still get torn on the transmission sump pan even if you were to remove the skid plate. This can happen regardless if you run a 2" BB. Last but not least, you should know that most coil lifts will yield MORE lift than what is advertised. If you want to make sure you only get something in the 2" range, getting spacers is the better way to go.

I am looking at the JKS 2" kits in particular. The standard kit mainly, but would love to spring for the spec kit with adjustable LCAs, front and rear. The jeep has 85,000 miles on it, so I assume the shocks are worn and the springs probably are as well. In the shock department I am looking at either Bilstein 5100s or Rancho 7000s.

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More than likely, your shocks are worn out but your coils should be fine. Both Bilstein 5100's and Rancho 7000 MT's are shocks that I've run or still run and are ones that I would recommend.

The point I'm going towards here, is that a budget boost is just that. A simple solution for little cost. If I need to replace the shocks already, is it in my best interest to replace the springs as well? Just call it a done deal, preventative maintenance, if you will.

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Not necessarily. Unless you're unhappy with the ride you have, I might not change out your coils as they may prove to be less desirable and/or cause problems by virtue of the fact that they'll end up being too tall for your needs.

Since you seem to have first-hand knowledge and testing of many different lifts, are the shocks that come most kits not worth time it takes to install them?

Specifically, I am looking at the teraflex 2.5 kit with the included shocks. Would I be that much better off buying different shocks from the get go or are the included shocks fairly decent?

Thanks again wayalife.

FireWire79 said:

Since you seem to have first-hand knowledge and testing of many different lifts, are the shocks that come most kits not worth time it takes to install them?

Specifically, I am looking at the teraflex 2.5 kit with the included shocks. Would I be that much better off buying different shocks from the get go or are the included shocks fairly decent?

Thanks again wayalife.

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yes buy the shocks on the side. the teraflex shocks are what make the ride ten time worse then it should be. An example i have from experience i had was with Skyjackers 2" BB lift. it comes with 2" pucks and shocks. being that you retain the stock springs the shocks harshened my ride ten fold. i felt like i was compressing my spine everytime i hit a bump (and i like a firmer ride). when i got my teraflex 2.5 coil lift i learned from my past experience to get shocks seperate from the kit.

FireWire79 said:

Since you seem to have first-hand knowledge and testing of many different lifts, are the shocks that come most kits not worth time it takes to install them?

Specifically, I am looking at the teraflex 2.5 kit with the included shocks. Would I be that much better off buying different shocks from the get go or are the included shocks fairly decent?

Thanks again wayalife.

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The basic shocks that come with most kits are NOT worth the time. Almost all of them are old school hydros and your factory monotubes will offer a better ride than what they will. If you can't afford new shocks, I would just run extensions. If you can afford new ones, I would look at a good monotube like a set of Rancho 7000MT or Bilstein 5100's. Can you get better? Sure, but it'll cost you and I honestly don't know if it'd be worth it with just a BB.

I am out of my realm here but I have a 2" AEV lift (jkur that has 18/60 stock springs) so my original height was about max for a stock jku. the 2" kit gives an honest 2" has shock extensions and has bump stops and I replaced the front sway bar links with rear sway bar links because I did not like the extension brackets in the AEV kit and the rear sway bar links are slightly longer then the fronts combined with the brackets so the sway bar is truly level. I do not think you could run 35" tires with this set up at least not off road. mine measure an honest 33" (285/75-17) and I think I need to add some additional height to the bump stops to keep from rubbing. I replaced 32" tires (measured) and was close at max flex.
on this one I stopped because I needed to extend rear brake bracket so it would have stuffed a little more.

Anything else critical that I need to know before jumping into the world of JKs? I hope I'm on the right track and think the BB with Bilstein 5100s should be perfect fit the moderate wheeling I do.

I have seen the EVO C gusset and the LCA skids, is that something I should look into? I'm a big fan of those cheap upgrades that no one ever sees but do wonders as far as keeping everything running smoothly.

FireWire79 said:

Anything else critical that I need to know before jumping into the world of JKs? I hope I'm on the right track and think the BB with Bilstein 5100s should be perfect fit the moderate wheeling I do.

I have seen the EVO C gusset and the LCA skids, is that something I should look into? I'm a big fan of those cheap upgrades that no one ever sees but do wonders as far as keeping everything running smoothly.

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Being that you are going to run 35's, yes, c-gussets are good to have. LCA skids are nice too if you're looking for something to buy but, not as necessary as gussets.

One more vote for springs and shocks. Those budget boosts essentially cheat physics which will make your ride quality suffer. You get what you pay for.

jeffd said:

I am out of my realm here but I have a 2" AEV lift (jkur that has 18/60 stock springs) so my original height was about max for a stock jku. the 2" kit gives an honest 2" has shock extensions and has bump stops and I replaced the front sway bar links with rear sway bar links because I did not like the extension brackets in the AEV kit and the rear sway bar links are slightly longer then the fronts combined with the brackets so the sway bar is truly level. I do not think you could run 35" tires with this set up at least not off road. mine measure an honest 33" (285/75-17) and I think I need to add some additional height to the bump stops to keep from rubbing. I replaced 32" tires (measured) and was close at max flex.
on this one I stopped because I needed to extend rear brake bracket so it would have stuffed a little more.

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If you trim your fenders, you will clear 35's with either wheels with the proper back spacing or wheel spacers. 2" of lift is plenty. You can easily run 33"s with no lift at all with only a small amount of rub at full stuff

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suicideking said:

One more vote for springs and shocks. Those budget boosts essentially cheat physics which will make your ride quality suffer. You get what you pay for.

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Yeah. But I don't plan in going over 3" so I can avoid purchasing driveshafts. I know that by adding 2" springs I could gain up to 3 - 3.5 inches, putting me the position of having to buy driveshafts.

I'd love to be fully capable at 2.5" with 35s. Just a matter of finding the right parts. LoL

Sent from my SPH-L710 using WAYALIFE mobile app

FireWire79 said:

Yeah. But I don't plan in going over 3" so I can avoid purchasing driveshafts. I know that by adding 2" springs I could gain up to 3 - 3.5 inches, putting me the position of having to buy driveshafts.

I'd love to be fully capable at 2.5" with 35s. Just a matter of finding the right parts. LoL

Sent from my SPH-L710 using WAYALIFE mobile app

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3" springs or taller will get you needing a new rear shaft only if you have a 2-door. Up front, it's not the springs that'll get you needing a new drive shaft, it'll be the length of your front shocks. If they allow for too much droop, you can still damage your front shaft even if you just have a 2" lift.