Why relays in a simple 12 volt light circuit?

Hangemhigh1

Hangemhigh1

New member
I don't understand why there is a relay in a 12 volt lighting circuit if the circuit is fused (specifically for offroad lights) I work with 220v motors frequently and these motors have relays and fuses however; the relays have a specific task and that is to redirect power so that the ultimate result is the motor running in one direction or the other. in the lighting circuit's case there is only on and off. Am I missing something?
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Hangemhigh1 said:
I don't understand why there is a relay in a 12 volt lighting circuit if the circuit is fused (specifically for offroad lights) I work with 220v motors frequently and these motors have relays and fuses however; the relays have a specific task and that is to redirect power so that the ultimate result is the motor running in one direction or the other. in the lighting circuit's case there is only on and off. Am I missing something?
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The relay is used to carry the large amp draw when turning the lights, compressor, etc. on. If you didn't use a relay, you'd be relying on your toggle switch to carry the initial amp draw. It works much like a starter solenoid.
 
JayKay

JayKay

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Something else that'll help make more sense is that if you're running LEDs, you wouldn't necessarily have to run a relay due to LEDs drawing so few amps. If you're running high wattage halogen lights, you'll definitely want to use a relay.
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Hangemhigh1 said:
I'm running a pair of LEDs with CREE bulbs rated at 2500 lumens for use with a 12v system.
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If they came with a wiring harness with relays, use them. If you don't have relays, you should be ok without them. As long as your switch is rated high enough as far as amps. Most switches are rated for 20 amps.
 
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jnabird333

jnabird333

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JeepKeeper said:
If they came with a wiring harness with relays, use them. If you don't have relays, you should be ok without them. As long as your switch is rated high enough as far as amps. Most switches are rated for 20 amps.
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Edit to remove question.... I see you edited your response so my question was no longer valid.
 
Hangemhigh1

Hangemhigh1

New member
There was no kit it was just the lights. Thx JeepKeeper the info was very insightful. P.S. my lights are surprisingly bright. I thought LEDs were not all that good at lighting up the night, but I was pleasantly surprised. even more surprised that they were about 120.00 for the pair.
 
JayKay

JayKay

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Hangemhigh1 said:
There was no kit it was just the lights. Thx JeepKeeper the info was very insightful. P.S. my lights are surprisingly bright. I thought LEDs were not all that good at lighting up the night, but I was pleasantly surprised. even more surprised that they were about 120.00 for the pair.
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Where'd you get your lights? Where'd you mount them? Spot, flood, driving? I just went with old school KC spot lights with one driving light. Do everything I need them to do, just light up the road when I'm out in the boonies at night.
 
Hangemhigh1

Hangemhigh1

New member
I bought my lights on the internet. I mounted them at the base of the windshield for use when I'm wheeling I don't want to get caught not being able to see should I be out there at night. I'm all about being as prepared as possible.
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Hangemhigh1 said:
the lights are rated at 36 watts and Im using rugged ridge panel switches.
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Yeah, the KCs I have are 130watts and 100watts. I'm using the rugged ridge pillar switches also, definitely wasn't gonna use the KC switches because they're ugly and I'm not screwing holes in my dash or trim
 
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