2014 JKUR Lift Ideas

TBird

TBird

New member
So I'm trying to line up what lift to do. I already have the evo draglink flip kit so a nice option is the rough country 6" Long arm kit. That way I can replace their weak track bar bracket and not have to use the dropped pitman arm.

Other option is the Rock Krawler 5.5" xfactor MID-arm kit.

Thing about the rk kit is that it comes with everything the rc lift has but it isn't a long arm and it would leave me with a paperweight drag link kit since I'd use the evo kit. Now I know rk is a bigger and maybe better name but rc can take a good beating too and has more lift/bracing/travel for less money. Going with 37's cut fenders.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
if your going to cut your fenders you dont need that much lift. i would look at a 3.5-4.5" lift. this will help keep your center of gravity lower. also with the cut fenders the tire gap will be a lot with that much lift. i think Eddie runs rubicat at 3.5" with his 37's
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Is there a reason why you want such a sky high lift? If you're just into the look of a tall Jeep, that's cool but, if you want something function, I might recommend something a bit lower. Regardless of brand, I personally wouldn't run a set of 37's with anything more than 4.5" if you need to keep your full width fenders or 3.5" of lift if you can run trimmed or flat fenders.

Of the two options you are considering, I would recommend RK over Rough Country. I have installed and run Rough Country lifts and have been far from impressed with the quality of their parts. Granted, if you really do want a 1980's sky high lift, long arms will do a lot to correct your suspension geometry that will otherwise be significantly off.
 
2

2trackin

New member
I agree with everything said here. I have a 2014 myself running 37s. 3.5" with Evo Plush ride coils on a rk max travel lift gives the perfect ride height. I run trimmed factory fenders.


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TBird

TBird

New member
I guess I'm just stuck in the hillbilly mindset of huge lifts lol I am in Canada's redneck country after all. So then say a 4.5" lift. Different ball game. What would you say is the best choice for functionality added with my evo drag flip and 37's with trimmed flares.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
TBird said:
I guess I'm just stuck in the hillbilly mindset of huge lifts lol I am in Canada's redneck country after all. So then say a 4.5" lift. Different ball game. What would you say is the best choice for functionality added with my evo drag flip and 37's with trimmed flares.
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LOL!! Don't get me wrong, there are definitely differen strokes for differen folk and, if you like a tall lift, more power to you. I just wanted to make sure so that I could advise you accordingly. :yup:

At 4.5" of lift, I would still consider a long arm as your suspension geometry will be off enough to warrant a correction. You could do this with something like an AEV short arm kit that comes with really big drop brackets but, if you were to go this route, I would recommend that you save your money and consider a Rancho Sport kit instead. The later is very similar in design only is a fraction of the cost. If you do want to go long arm, I personally would recommend a true 4-link setup like what EVO makes. If you don't do a lot of big flexing, the Full-Traction long arm kit is a good choice too.
 
TBird

TBird

New member
Hmmm. With all that being said, if I do like the look of a tall lift (or maybe wanted 38's) and have the ride quality of a long arm and flex of a long arm but not lifted to the moon, wouldnt the 5.5 be the best option. Price wise I'm not seeing much I like TBH. I don't do THAT much wheeling (plan on hitting up moab once or twice) and will probably do more mudding than anything. I do understand that the higher it is the higher my cov is (hence why I'm not doing a body lift this time) but if I'm doing moab once or twice and the rest bald ass prairie I'm thinking the 5.5. Ain't a 6 or 7, ain't long arm, but almost.
 
TBird

TBird

New member
Although with picture surfing maybe it does look silly lol maybe a 3.5 x factor with flats would be in better order. Mid arm or long arm then? Ive read that ride quality doesn't change much between them on the unlimited
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
since you already have the evo drag link flip, just get the 4" evo enforcer and call it a day.
 
TBird

TBird

New member
Because in Canada it's a pain to order evo stuff especially if it's custom order like that. And it only has two arms and no shocks or brake lines or other goodies for the price. Its gonna be the x factor mid arm 3.5 and a set of rancho rs5000 for a smooth ride.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
TBird said:
Because in Canada it's a pain to order evo stuff especially if it's custom order like that. And it only has two arms and no shocks or brake lines or other goodies for the price. Its gonna be the x factor mid arm 3.5 and a set of rancho rs5000 for a smooth ride.
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all you really need are front lower arms to set castor, stock arms flex plenty. flex comes from shock length. what exactly is a "mid arm"? i'd get king shocks or rancho 7000mt for a smooth ride.
 
TBird

TBird

New member
The mid arm is basically a longer swt of short arms allowing more clearance for bigger tires and to help clear the Rubicon rails too. Not too sure if it'll clear 37's but I can make it fit haha rancho 7000'S's it is.

Would a tom woods shaft work? I plan on upgrading the shafts before lifting anyways.
 
J

just-lift-it

LOSER
Im in Canada to man, Ontario and not many guys up here run over a 35" tire on 2.5" lift BUT you can get evo stuff with no hassell at all only thing is you will WAIT and wait and wait for it, placed my order for 4" evo plush rides 2.5 months ago there finally a week out you just call up Stan and Northridge 4x4 in Alberta no brokerage fees and free shipping he sells everything evo offers just be ready to wait for it is all.
 
TBird

TBird

New member
Thats just it though right. I don't wanna wait almost 3 months for something I can get in like 3 days. Not that I think evo is junk, I just don't like the kit. To each their own.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
TBird said:
The mid arm is basically a longer swt of short arms allowing more clearance for bigger tires and to help clear the Rubicon rails too. Not too sure if it'll clear 37's but I can make it fit haha rancho 7000'S's it is.

Would a tom woods shaft work? I plan on upgrading the shafts before lifting anyways.
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oh, gonna try pushing the axle back one inch or so, the you might have to get adjustable coil perches and correction wedges and all kinds of stuff.
tom woods? get the better upgraded u joints.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
TBird said:
Thats just it though right. I don't wanna wait almost 3 months for something I can get in like 3 days. Not that I think evo is junk, I just don't like the kit. To each their own.
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ohh, waiting sucks. i think the evo enforcer is a well put together imo. no extra stuff that you dont need. everything they include is all you really need to lift a jeep. other than the drag link flip of front adj trac bar.
make sure to post pics when your done.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
As mentioned, the RK mid arms have a shortest length that are about 1.5" longer than stock. Even at 3"-4" of lift, you don't really need to be more than 3/8" longer than stock to get your axles centered and going more than that will cause enough coil bow in the rear to cause them to make contact with your rear track bar unless you install new adjustable lower spring perches. Wedges alone will not be enough especially on a 2-door. Up front, you can have enough bow to cause the driverside coil hit the sway bar and the passenger side to drag on the bump stop tower. Just something to be aware of.

As far as drive shafts go, if you decide to get a Tom Woods, be sure to pay for upgraded Neapco or Spicer joints. The Chinese joints he uses standard are ones that I see fail all the time.
 
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