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View Full Version : Rk joints warn at 2k miles!?



2trackin
01-18-2014, 06:34 PM
So, I have my front end out for gussets and a truss. Taking the time to do my rock lights while I'm at it. I notice my upper control arms just hanging with no noticeable tension. I wiggle them seeing that there is tons of slop coming from the through bolt part of the joint. So I remove them to find that the up and down movement of the axle has caused the bolt to actually wear it's threading into the through bolt hole. These we installed right, tight with no play and even retorqued after a few hundred miles. After only 2k miles on the Jeep these have very noticeable wear. I think the quality steel used for these joints is sub par.
It's somewhat hard to see in the picture. But the threading of the bolt has made threads so to speak inside the through bolt hole.
I'm uncertain of what I should do at this moment. Guess it's back up to the tractor supply to find some bolts with a shoulder to give me tighter tolerances.
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wayoflife
01-18-2014, 07:01 PM
In all fairness, seeing thread marks like that in a joint is totally normal. If you were actually feeling slop in the joint, that isn't.

David1tontj
01-18-2014, 07:13 PM
So, I have my front end out for gussets and a truss. Taking the time to do my rock lights while I'm at it. I notice my upper control arms just hanging with no noticeable tension. I wiggle them seeing that there is tons of slop coming from the through bolt part of the joint. So I remove them to find that the up and down movement of the axle has caused the bolt to actually wear it's threading into the through bolt hole. These we installed right, tight with no play and even retorqued after a few hundred miles. After only 2k miles on the Jeep these have very noticeable wear. I think the quality steel used for these joints is sub par.
It's somewhat hard to see in the picture. But the threading of the bolt has made threads so to speak inside the through bolt hole.
I'm uncertain of what I should do at this moment. Guess it's back up to the tractor supply to find some bolts with a shoulder to give me tighter tolerances.
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I think you're on the right track looking for a bolt with a bigger shoulder.. The pic looked like your bolt was all threads. I would think that if it had been the correct kind of bolt, that this may not have happened.

I hope that the bolt fixes your problem, cause 2k miles to blow them out is ridiculous!


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.

2trackin
01-18-2014, 07:31 PM
In all fairness, seeing thread marks like that in a joint is totally normal. If you were actually feeling slop in the joint, that isn't.

Thread "marks" understandable for sure. These are deep and have warn a substantial amount of slop. To my understanding all movement should be in the joint itself and not rotating on the bolt. Correct?

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OverlanderJK
01-18-2014, 07:40 PM
The bolt isn't threaded into the joint do it's going to move. Look at your track bar and it'll be the same. It doesn't mean there is slop but when your flex out that little slack between the bolt and the joint will make the thread indentation. All mine look like that.

2trackin
01-18-2014, 07:45 PM
The bolt isn't threaded into the joint do it's going to move. Look at your track bar and it'll be the same. It doesn't mean there is slop but when your flex out that little slack between the bolt and the joint will make the thread indentation. All mine look like that.

I know how it went together. Lol I put it together myself. There was not this much slop when put together. I would not have been ok with it that way. There is litterally no wear on the bolt. Proving to me that the material used in the joints is softer than a grade 8 bolt. I would think that wear surfaces would be ensured to be at least of the same hardness.

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2trackin
01-18-2014, 10:53 PM
Went and picked up some grade 8, 1/2 - 20 3" bolts with shoulder. Perfect fit.
For what it's worth, at this point. I suggest not using factory hardware.

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David1tontj
01-18-2014, 11:28 PM
Went and picked up some grade 8, 1/2 - 20 3" bolts with shoulder. Perfect fit.
For what it's worth, at this point. I suggest not using factory hardware.

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Glad to hear it took out the slop. It's nice when a repair doesn't cost a fortune!


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.

piginajeep
01-18-2014, 11:56 PM
Went and picked up some grade 8, 1/2 - 20 3" bolts with shoulder. Perfect fit.
For what it's worth, at this point. I suggest not using factory hardware.

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Nothing wrong with the factory hardware

wayoflife
01-19-2014, 12:20 AM
Nothing wrong with the factory hardware

Agreed. If a tight fit was all that was required to keep things from moving around, there would be no need for torque settings. Still, if you don't want your factory hardware, I'll pay you to have them shipped them to me.

OJK12
01-19-2014, 01:49 AM
Agreed. If a tight fit was all that was required to keep things from moving around, there would be no need for torque settings. Still, if you don't want your factory hardware, I'll pay you to have them shipped them to me.

I totally agree I can't understand why everyone keeps changing these bolts out?? I've been looking for a bunch of stock bolts people are removing but have had no luck! I think one reason jeep does not use a shoulder bolt is so you can remove them later. I know a lot of you guys out west may not have this problem but over here when the road salt has been chewing at your rig for a couple years and you have a tight tolerance shoulder bolt only torches can get them out.

2trackin
01-19-2014, 02:50 PM
I totally agree I can't understand why everyone keeps changing these bolts out?? I've been looking for a bunch of stock bolts people are removing but have had no luck! I think one reason jeep does not use a shoulder bolt is so you can remove them later. I know a lot of you guys out west may not have this problem but over here when the road salt has been chewing at your rig for a couple years and you have a tight tolerance shoulder bolt only torches can get them out.

I'll agree with you on the shoulder bolts seizing. Here in Michigan driving year round can do some killer things to these parts. I owned xjs for years and I don't think I ever had a time I didn't have to torch the leaf spring and shackle bolts off. My jk fortunately isn't driven as a daily driver and only in the winter for weekend trips and what not.
I found that the lower control arm bolts were just fine still. Only the uppers had the issue. I feel much better about having hardware with reasonable tolerances now.


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