Genright Rear Tire Carrier unboxing

wwood

Member
Just got the Genright carrier (aluminum version) delivered yesterday.

I had a bunch of questions before ordering that were answered when I got my hands on it.
Here are some pics and info which might help anybody thinking about a swing out tire carrier.

First of all the carrier arrived in huge box and it was in good shape. One reason I chose the alum version was my assumption that the carrier was shipped bare, no box. I had seen other pics of new carriers and they were bare and had UPS stickers on them. I might have ordered the steel version powder coated if I knew it would come in a good box and not have half the powder coat scratched off by UPS.

Second, the carrier looks beefier and better in real life than in pics. It really is nicely made and certainly looks strong as hell. The hardware also looks first class. I hate cheezy, flimsy stuff of any type.... not a problem with this carrier. The passenger side hinges are all 3/16" steel... big, heavy, plenty strong looking. They rotate on 9/16" grade 8 bolts with big hard plastic/rubber bushings. Looks to be very solid. The driver's side mounting plate is all aluminum with the same big plastic/rubber bushings and bumpers secured by 1/2" push in/out pins. I don't like the looks of the push pins. Not doubting they will work fine but to me they are ugly so I will look for something better looking.

I am going to install the carrier over PSC rear corner guards. That is going to require some fiddling, grinding, etc since the passenger side guard does not fit around the Genright hinges and needs to be reshaped a little. Will post more when I get to that install.

The aluminum carrier itself weighs 21 lbs. The box of hardware parts weighs 14 lbs, so that's about 13 lbs actual hardware minus the box itself, for a total weight of 34 lbs. The shipping weights Genright gave me were about 20 lbs heavier for the steel version, so the steel version should come out to about 54 lbs? I used an accurate postal package scale to weigh this stuff. The light weight is the main reason I went with the Genright instead of the EVO carrier which I really love the looks of. Plus the EVO rear corner guards look like a bear to install whereas the PSC corners are very well form fitted and lighter (1/8" steel plate instead of EVO's 3/16" plate).

Could not tell from forum pics exactly how the tire is held on the carrier. Now I see. The wheel/tire hangs on a threaded steel bar that goes thru the bore of the wheel, no lugs or lug nuts to worry about. The tire itself contacts the inside of the carrier and is held there by a threaded nut with bar handles which forces a cone shaped hard plastic/rubber gizmo into the wheel bore that also centers the bore of the wheel on the threaded bar so there is no metal to metal contact between the wheel bore and the threaded bar. Very easy to use and very secure. The wheel itself make no contact with any other metal, the only thing touching the wheel is the cone shaped plastic gizmo in the bore pushing the tire against the carrier. The tire makes no contact with the tailgate. Have not installed anything yet but rubber bumpers on the tailgate might be helpful depending on tire size. I have 35x12.50 Toyos, don't yet know how close to the tailgate the tire will ride.

Here are the pics:

DSC09767.jpg
DSC09769.jpg DSC09771.jpg DSC09773.jpg DSC09774.jpg DSC09776.jpg
DSC09777.jpg DSC09778.jpg DSC09779.jpg

Any questions or requests for different pics, just ask.
 

IBeHeWhoIsJoshua

New member
Just got the Genright carrier (aluminum version) delivered yesterday.

I had a bunch of questions before ordering that were answered when I got my hands on it.
Here are some pics and info which might help anybody thinking about a swing out tire carrier.

First of all the carrier arrived in huge box and it was in good shape. One reason I chose the alum version was my assumption that the carrier was shipped bare, no box. I had seen other pics of new carriers and they were bare and had UPS stickers on them. I might have ordered the steel version powder coated if I knew it would come in a good box and not have half the powder coat scratched off by UPS.

Second, the carrier looks beefier and better in real life than in pics. It really is nicely made and certainly looks strong as hell. The hardware also looks first class. I hate cheezy, flimsy stuff of any type.... not a problem with this carrier. The passenger side hinges are all 3/16" steel... big, heavy, plenty strong looking. They rotate on 9/16" grade 8 bolts with big hard plastic/rubber bushings. Looks to be very solid. The driver's side mounting plate is all aluminum with the same big plastic/rubber bushings and bumpers secured by 1/2" push in/out pins. I don't like the looks of the push pins. Not doubting they will work fine but to me they are ugly so I will look for something better looking.

I am going to install the carrier over PSC rear corner guards. That is going to require some fiddling, grinding, etc since the passenger side guard does not fit around the Genright hinges and needs to be reshaped a little. Will post more when I get to that install.

The aluminum carrier itself weighs 21 lbs. The box of hardware parts weighs 14 lbs, so that's about 13 lbs actual hardware minus the box itself, for a total weight of 34 lbs. The shipping weights Genright gave me were about 20 lbs heavier for the steel version, so the steel version should come out to about 54 lbs? I used an accurate postal package scale to weigh this stuff. The light weight is the main reason I went with the Genright instead of the EVO carrier which I really love the looks of. Plus the EVO rear corner guards look like a bear to install whereas the PSC corners are very well form fitted and lighter (1/8" steel plate instead of EVO's 3/16" plate).

Could not tell from forum pics exactly how the tire is held on the carrier. Now I see. The wheel/tire hangs on a threaded steel bar that goes thru the bore of the wheel, no lugs or lug nuts to worry about. The tire itself contacts the inside of the carrier and is held there by a threaded nut with bar handles which forces a cone shaped hard plastic/rubber gizmo into the wheel bore that also centers the bore of the wheel on the threaded bar so there is no metal to metal contact between the wheel bore and the threaded bar. Very easy to use and very secure. The wheel itself make no contact with any other metal, the only thing touching the wheel is the cone shaped plastic gizmo in the bore pushing the tire against the carrier. The tire makes no contact with the tailgate. Have not installed anything yet but rubber bumpers on the tailgate might be helpful depending on tire size. I have 35x12.50 Toyos, don't yet know how close to the tailgate the tire will ride.

Here are the pics:


Any questions or requests for different pics, just ask.

If you have any questions regarding their stuff call and ask for Michael, he's a good friend of mine and will take good care of you. Thanks for the unboxing, their stuff is real nice in person and their shop/warehouse is impressive as well.
 

nicholsmf

Member
Is your mounting plate, threaded rod, round plate, and the nut with handle (the things on the left in this pic) aluminum?

I only ask because I ordered the aluminum carrier and while the carrier and the latch plate are aluminum, those parts are steel are fighting the rust drives me crazy!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

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wwood

Member
Is your mounting plate, threaded rod, round plate, and the nut with handle (the things on the left in this pic) aluminum?

I only ask because I ordered the aluminum carrier and while the carrier and the latch plate are aluminum, those parts are steel are fighting the rust drives me crazy!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Yes, the driver's side latch plate and carrier is aluminum but all the stuff on the left (threaded rod and mounting plate, round plate, nut with handle, etc) is steel, plated with something (chrome, nickel?).
I am from NJ and know what you mean about rust. Not much of a rust problem here in AZ but I will still paint/powder coat those parts.
 

JKNick07

New member
Very excited to see the install.. love the looks of this and the fact that its lighter.. Might have to end up ditching the rancho bumper/tire carrier
 

jeeeep

Hooked
I like that style tire carrier and also that it's lighter than most. Only thing that keeps me from having one is how often I get in to the back of my Jeep and would get tired of having to unhinge those 2 pins every time...The older I get the more annoyed I get if I have to take to many step to do something...I like simple! :crazyeyes:
 

Serg5000

New member
I have the same carrier. I ran into an issue with how to mount a RotopaX fuel pack on it. After talking with the guys at GenRight, they said I could drill into the upper hoop section of the carrier and it wouldn't affect anything. I also purchased the tube clamps they sell thinking I would use then for mounting the pack but changed my mind as soon as I received them. What I did was install four rivnuts and used 1/4-20 bolts to mount the plate. Check out the pics.
sa4a9ebu.jpg
ne8ara6a.jpg
nesu7abe.jpg
 

JKFlyer

New member
I have the same carrier. I ran into an issue with how to mount a RotopaX fuel pack on it. After talking with the guys at GenRight, they said I could drill into the upper hoop section of the carrier and it wouldn't affect anything. I also purchased the tube clamps they sell thinking I would use then for mounting the pack but changed my mind as soon as I received them. What I did was install four rivnuts and used 1/4-20 bolts to mount the plate. Check out the pics.
sa4a9ebu.jpg
ne8ara6a.jpg
nesu7abe.jpg

Looks great. Nice work! So do u actually keep fuel in the rotopax?

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

HDGasser

New member
I have the same carrier. I ran into an issue with how to mount a RotopaX fuel pack on it. After talking with the guys at GenRight, they said I could drill into the upper hoop section of the carrier and it wouldn't affect anything. I also purchased the tube clamps they sell thinking I would use then for mounting the pack but changed my mind as soon as I received them. What I did was install four rivnuts and used 1/4-20 bolts to mount the plate. Check out the pics.
sa4a9ebu.jpg
ne8ara6a.jpg
nesu7abe.jpg

I ran into the same problem so I did this contraption. I like your setup better... That won't grow legs and walk off!

 

VADER JK

New member
Does anyone have pictures of this carrier with either PSC or EVO corners? I really like that RotopaX mounting idea though serg looks awesome :thumb:
 

wwood

Member
I have the same carrier. I ran into an issue with how to mount a RotopaX fuel pack on it. After talking with the guys at GenRight, they said I could drill into the upper hoop section of the carrier and it wouldn't affect anything. I also purchased the tube clamps they sell thinking I would use then for mounting the pack but changed my mind as soon as I received them. What I did was install four rivnuts and used 1/4-20 bolts to mount the plate.

Brilliant idea! I think I will copy that. Where did you get the rivnuts? Are they extra long compared to regular sheet metal rivnuts, the aluminum tubes are pretty thick?
 

Serg5000

New member
Yes they are almost double the length. Here is a pic. And the part number for McMaster-Carr
verazety.jpg
part # ALS4-420-260B. The end on these is sealed to help keep water out when the plate isn't on there.
 

Serg5000

New member
Let me add, i took a piece of pipe of the same thickness and tested the rivnut first. I bit on the inside great. Having an install tool helps ensure the proper fitment of the rivnut.
 

Elusive

New member
yes im sure you can. this carrier is rated to hold up to a 42" tire

Thanks.
here is why I ask. I tote a couple dirt bikes on a hitch carrier behind my jeep. with the stock carrier and a 35" tire I would strap the inside bike snug against the spare. Now I need a bigger spare but It can't stick out too far or I won't be able to get 2 bikes on the hitch carrier.
 

pvanweelden

New member
Let me add, i took a piece of pipe of the same thickness and tested the rivnut first. I bit on the inside great. Having an install tool helps ensure the proper fitment of the rivnut.

Great idea of using the rivnut instead of drilling all the way through the tubing. and excellent thought to test it first with a piece of scrap so you could see how it is biting on the inside of the tubing :thumb:
 
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