Some EVO DTD questions.

JKDriver

JKDriver

New member
I see there are quite a few people here running the EVO DTD set up. Having determined that this will be the ultimate suspension for the varied driving I am going to be doing, I have some questions.

First, here is my JKU now. Poison Spyder Crusher Flares, RK 2.5 Max Travel (upgraded to all 8 arms) w RRD's w/ reservoirs, Teraflex speed bumps. The stance is great, on road handling is good, off road handling is good as long as you are going slow.

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First, I know that the DTD can be set at a low ride height, like 3 inches. At that height, what is your up travel? For washboard trails and fast bumpy stuff (not desert running) what do most of you set your ride height at? I know its adjustable, but just looking to see what a daily ride height would be. I ask because this is my daily driver of choice and I like a lower center of gravity, besides which my wife is short and I have 2 younger kids.

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For the time being, I want to stay with my 35's, although when these wear out I will move down to 17 inch wheel, either a bead lock or a wider wheel with the correct offset.

Second, given my set up and the ride height, is there anything else I would need to add/change? Drag link flip? Does it look like there is enough wheel offset to fit the DTD?

Also, I have seen a lot of flexed out systems. Would anyone like to share some shots of the systems on flat ground?

Thanks!
Dave
 
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GCM 2

GCM 2

New member
If you stay with the stock axles, you will need to run wheel spacers and run wheels with no more than 3.5" of back spacing. Not certain about needing to do both because everyone I know who runs a Double Throw Down has full width aftermarket axles, but it seems like a safe bet with stock axles you will need both.

Staying with 35" tires will allow you to run the coilovers dialed in with absolutely no preload on the coils, so you will sit with a traditional lift equivalent of around 3"-3.5" of lift.

No need for me to post shots of my jeep on flat ground, I'm running 40" tires (like 99% of all DTD's) so there is no real comparison to what it would look like with 35" tires.
 
JKDriver

JKDriver

New member
GCM 2 said:
If you stay with the stock axles, you will need to run wheel spacers and run wheels with no more than 3.5" of back spacing. Not certain about needing to do both because everyone I know who runs a Double Throw Down has full width aftermarket axles, but it seems like a safe bet with stock axles you will need both.

Staying with 35" tires will allow you to run the coilovers dialed in with absolutely no preload on the coils, so you will sit with a traditional lift equivalent of around 3"-3.5" of lift.

No need for me to post shots of my jeep on flat ground, I'm running 40" tires (like 99% of all DTD's) so there is no real comparison to what it would look like with 35" tires.
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Thanks. Yeah axles are on the list, but will probably have to wait a year. I guess I'll need to bite off new wheels this year too. This is my daily driver, but I bought another vehicle last year so I can take this out of service when I need to.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
While the DTD is the best suspension system you can get, I have to wonder if it might be a bit overkill for your needs. Granted, if you have money to spend, I would do it but if not, I might consider the EVO bolt on coil over kit instead. For where you live, I think you might find that it'll get the job done well and for a lot less. Just thought I'd put it out there.

To answer your other question, I run mine DTD at about 4" of lift with 40" tires and my bolt on coil over kit at 3.5" with 37's.

Here's a pic of my DTD Jeep on flat ground...
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And, here's a shot of my bolt on coil over Jeep...
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I think Greg got the rest well :yup:
 
JKDriver

JKDriver

New member
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I have been looking at the bolt on coil over system also. For what I do in Florida and weekend trips to Alabama and Georgia the coil overs themselfs would definitely be enough.

With my company expansion into Central America I will be spending a lot of time running fast on bad roads and trails. Plus I can see a lot of desert fun in Mexico. My though was I don't want to waste any money, but I also don't want to go with a cheaper option and then wish I had gone better.

The plan I was contemplating was the DTD front and rear, and maybe different wheels with more offset this year and a RIPP supercharger. Then aftermarket axles next year.

Any yes, right now I have a D30 up front. It is sleeved, gusseted, and trussed....but I know I'm on borrowed time...
 
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Atch

Atch

New member
JKDriver said:
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I have been looking at the bolt on coil over system also. For what I do in Florida and weekend trips to Alabama and Georgia the coil overs themselfs would definitely be enough.

With my company expansion into Central America I will be spending a lot of time running fast on bab roads and trails. Plus I can see a lot of desert fun in Mexico. My though was I don't want to waste any money, but I also don't want to go with a cheaper option and then wish I had gone better.

The plan I was contemplating was the DTD front and rear, and maybe different wheels with more offset this year and a RIPP supercharger. Then aftermarket axles next year.
Click to expand...

Make sure to plan ahead about the axles and wheels so you don't have to purchase wheels again once you end up with new axles & bolt pattern.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JKDriver said:
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I have been looking at the bolt on coil over system also. For what I do in Florida and weekend trips to Alabama and Georgia the coil overs themselfs would definitely be enough.

With my company expansion into Central America I will be spending a lot of time running fast on bab roads and trails. Plus I can see a lot of desert fun in Mexico. My though was I don't want to waste any money, but I also don't want to go with a cheaper option and then wish I had gone better.

The plan I was contemplating was the DTD front and rear, and maybe different wheels with more offset this year and a RIPP supercharger. Then aftermarket axles next year.

Any yes, right now I have a D30 up front. It is sleeved, gusseted, and trussed....but I know I'm on borrowed time...
Click to expand...

Okay, so that's kind of the point I was trying to make. Sleeves and gussets won't do squat to prevent a shaft break and with DTD's, I can guarantee you that you will start bending your front AND rear axles as soon as you start bombing your Jeep on the trails like you will be able to. Having said that, I personally would try and budget money for upgraded axles into your build. If you're determined to run DTD's some day, you can always get the front brackets and EVO lever installed and just run them with single coil overs until you can afford to add the bypass shocks.
 
JKDriver

JKDriver

New member
wayoflife said:
Okay, so that's kind of the point I was trying to make. Sleeves and gussets won't do squat to prevent a shaft break and with DTD's, I can guarantee you that you will start bending your front AND rear axles as soon as you start bombing your Jeep on the trails like you will be able to. Having said that, I personally would try and budget money for upgraded axles into your build. If you're determined to run DTD's some day, you can always get the front brackets and EVO lever installed and just run them with single coil overs until you can afford to add the bypass shocks.
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That's why I came here for the advice! Thanks. I'll look into things a little further. Maybe hold off on the supercharger and go with the DTD brackets and Lever, but not the bypass shocks yet. Then address the axles. I have Nitro chromoly axles now, as well as their gears, but I had always figured on axle replacement. I had been looking at the TeraFlex axles. Should I be looking at something stronger if I decide to go all out later with the DTD set up?

My brother keeps telling me to leave the Jeep alone and just buy his buggy......
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JKDriver said:
That's why I came here for the advice! Thanks. I'll look into things a little further. Maybe hold off on the supercharger and go with the DTD brackets and Lever, but not the bypass shocks yet. Then address the axles. I have Nitro chromoly axles now, as well as their gears, but I had always figured on axle replacement. I had been looking at the TeraFlex axles. Should I be looking at something stronger if I decide to go all out later with the DTD set up?

My brother keeps telling me to leave the Jeep alone and just buy his buggy......
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Well, I would definitely put new axles higher up on your list. I'm no fan of superchargers as I have yet to see one actually deliver the power needed when it's needed or for that matter, not have so many problems. I know most people who have one will swear by them but, every time we have someone in our group with one, they are always at the back of the pack climbing up long grades or can never make it up obstacles that require a good bump. As far as axles go, you've got to ask yourself - do you really want to get one that's made by a company that specializes in suspension system or one from a company that ONLY makes axles? While I have owned and run MANY TeraFlex products in the past, I have since become less than enthusiastic about the Chinese parts they sell and here's why:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?5169-TeraFlex-Front-Track-Bar-Breaks&highlight=teraflex+break
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4740-TeraFlex-Hinged-Tire-Carrier-Break
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4743-TeraFlex-Long-Arm-Bracket-Break&highlight=teraflex+break

If it were me, I would ONLY get a Dynatrac axle. Sure, they cost a bit more but, you definitely get what you pay for.
 
C

chuckt62

Member
[Hi-Jack]

GCM 2 said:
..you will need to run wheel spacers and run wheels with no more than 3.5" of back spacing...

...everyone I know who runs a Double Throw Down has full width aftermarket axles...
Click to expand...

If you run axles that are 3" wider than stock, can you get away with more wheel back space? It's my under standing that the 3.5" spec is to clear the front COs and with +3" on the axle width/WMS, 4-1/2" BS would work. I keep meaning to call EVO and ask, but haven't got around to it.

[/Hi-Jack]

c
 
GCM 2

GCM 2

New member
chuckt62 said:
[Hi-Jack]



If you run axles that are 3" wider than stock, can you get away with more wheel back space? It's my under standing that the 3.5" spec is to clear the front COs and with +3" on the axle width/WMS, 4-1/2" BS would work. I keep meaning to call EVO and ask, but haven't got around to it.

[/Hi-Jack]

c
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The full width axles will help you clear the DTD bypass shock and coilover if running wheels that have 4.5" back spacing. You will still have interference problems with other things. If you are going to be running a 39"- 42" diameter tire on a wheel with 4.5" BS, than you will be rubbing on the frame at full steering lock and get some pinch seam rub in front of the driver and passenger doors at full suspension compression. 37" and smaller tires on wheels with 4.5" BS on full width axles will probably not rub frame or pinch seams due to the much smaller diameter.
 
utiadam

utiadam

LOSER
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So is it possible to run stock axles and either bolt on coilovers/DTD with stock wheels with spacers? That picture is from the Off Road Evolution facebook page and it has the DTD brackets but with only the coilovers installed. I have the same wheels and already have 1.5" spacers installed. I just ordered the bolt on coilovers yesterday but will I be ok with stock wheels and spacers?
 
C

CerOf

Member
I can't comment on your lift, but I would suggest keeping things built strong and simple.

I've had the misfortune of breaking down 100 miles from the closest town, in the US and it was a pain. With your going to Mexico and Central America with the JK, consider availability of tires and parts. Looking forward to your build!


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
 
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