3.73 gear ratio and 35's on 2013 JKU Auto

Rideski

New member
I'm currently running Dick Cepek 33 Mud Country's on Pro Comp steelies on my 2013 JKU w/auto and 3.73 gearing. I'm moving up to 35's on General Grabbers on Alloy wheels. The 35/rim combo will be a few pounds heavier based on my math (heavier tire but lighter rim). My question is will I notice a difference in the power of the vehicle? I don't know if the larger diameter will have an affect on this or not. If it's just a weight thing then I should't notice much difference...? Am I correct?

I will have my speedo set up after I have the tires installed.

Thanks.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Yes you will notice a difference. You will notice a power lose but it will be drivable and you will be fine for a good amount of time with that set up. Eventually you will want to regear tho to get the power back and to help your crawl ratio


Sent from my iPhone
 

DallasJKU

New member
Its definitely drivable. Its not ideal, but mine never has an issue searching for a gear on highway. However, I don't have hills here in Dallas.
 

mrmet1983

New member
Only time u will see a problem is on hilly highways I was running 373s with 35s for a few months and in very hilly areas it wasn't great to say the least and my mpgs suffered big time now that I'm on 37s with 513s it's better then stock


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
 

redtx

New member
I really don't think it's all that bad I have 35's with 373 i drive it 80 miles to work and back. The hills are the worst and mpg will drop a bit due to that. I have to say I did not get my jeep to drive fast or for its mpg so...
 

Rideski

New member
Thanks Fellas. That's pretty much what I expected. After getting on-board air the gear upgrade will be the top of the to-do list.
 

gantle

New member
Does anyone know if the 3.73 with 35's is offset by the transfer case in a Rubicon when off-road crawling?
 

suicideking

New member
I've been running this combo for over a year now. It's not that bad if you get an AEV Procal or similar (don't remember the name of the one people recommend on her).

I got the Procal and it made a huge difference. It will adjust your shift points, enough so that I'm going to wait until I get 37's to re-gear.
 

gantle

New member
That what I plan to do also. South Florida is so flat I'm betting the ratio thing can wait for the 37's.
Time will tell and I'll be the first to admit I made a mistake.
 

tsalani

New member
I've been running this combo for over a year now. It's not that bad if you get an AEV Procal or similar (don't remember the name of the one people recommend on her).

I got the Procal and it made a huge difference. It will adjust your shift points, enough so that I'm going to wait until I get 37's to re-gear.

Can I ask what mpg's you are getting with the 35s and 3.73s?
 
When choosing gear ratio’s I notice that many folks are too conservative. The popular calculations out there will show you the RPM change at a given speed, but that is not the whole answer.

The size of tires varies greatly. If the sidewall says 35” or 37”, it is just an estimate. Reputable tire manufacturers like BFG, have more detailed data on their websites for each tire, but even that is still an estimate.

Inflation pressure and vehicle weight compress the bottom of the tire. It is different for every tire on every car. The number that is most accurate is called Static Loaded Radius (SLR). That is the distance from axle CL to the ground when the car is loaded, and the tire is inflated to a given pressure. You can measure this yourself in your driveway. Multiply that measurement x2 to get a more accurate tire diameter for your calculation.

The other factor to consider is that tires rolling on pavement create friction and drag. Larger tires create more friction and drag. Lift kits also increase frontal area that adds wind resistance.

Some folks think that if the engine turns slower they will save fuel. Not necessarily. The engine is designed to be most efficient in a given power band. The factory makes this decision to conform to Federal fuel economy laws (CAFE). If the ratio is too high (low numeric number), then the engine will lug, and burn more fuel. The transmission will also spend less time in OD, and hunt in and out frequently. Also bad for fuel economy.

When you do your calculation, you are better off having the engine spin somewhat faster than stock (higher numeric gear ratio, aka lower gear). That will maintain optimal fuel economy, and overcome the wind drag from higher body height, and rolling resistance of the bigger tires on pavement. It will also make the car far more fun to drive. It will feel lively and responsive.
 

suicideking

New member
I get around 14, but I use 90% city. Not great but I didn't get my Jeep thinking I could do much better than that.

My mpg is similar -- around 15 mpg. About half city and highway. I have a short commute to work on the freeway, around 15 minutes each way.
 

Donny

New member
When choosing gear ratio’s I notice that many folks are too conservative. The popular calculations out there will show you the RPM change at a given speed, but that is not the whole answer.

The size of tires varies greatly. If the sidewall says 35” or 37”, it is just an estimate. Reputable tire manufacturers like BFG, have more detailed data on their websites for each tire, but even that is still an estimate.

Inflation pressure and vehicle weight compress the bottom of the tire. It is different for every tire on every car. The number that is most accurate is called Static Loaded Radius (SLR). That is the distance from axle CL to the ground when the car is loaded, and the tire is inflated to a given pressure. You can measure this yourself in your driveway. Multiply that measurement x2 to get a more accurate tire diameter for your calculation.

The other factor to consider is that tires rolling on pavement create friction and drag. Larger tires create more friction and drag. Lift kits also increase frontal area that adds wind resistance.

Some folks think that if the engine turns slower they will save fuel. Not necessarily. The engine is designed to be most efficient in a given power band. The factory makes this decision to conform to Federal fuel economy laws (CAFE). If the ratio is too high (low numeric number), then the engine will lug, and burn more fuel. The transmission will also spend less time in OD, and hunt in and out frequently. Also bad for fuel economy.

When you do your calculation, you are better off having the engine spin somewhat faster than stock (higher numeric gear ratio, aka lower gear). That will maintain optimal fuel economy, and overcome the wind drag from higher body height, and rolling resistance of the bigger tires on pavement. It will also make the car far more fun to drive. It will feel lively and responsive.

Meaning in 2013 JKU Sport 3.73, automatic 35" Nitto Trail grapplers 3.5" lift I should be at 5.13 instead of going to 4.88?

Donny
 

Donny

New member
For 35's, you'll probably want 4.88 (some would say 4.56). 5.13 would be a bit low, better for 37's.



x2
Somehow reminds me of a swallow carrying a coconut... :D


If I had an idea how much a used Dana 44 front would be that may be factored into my upgrade...but going 5K for a Prorock 44 just isn't going to work...I would be the swallow being crushed by my coconut wielding wife!:eek:

Donny
 

noroad

New member
If I had an idea how much a used Dana 44 front would be that may be factored into my upgrade...but going 5K for a Prorock 44 just isn't going to work...I would be the swallow being crushed by my coconut wielding wife!:eek:

Donny

if you dont plan on going over 35s a dana 30 will do just fine with 4.56 or 4.88s and some upgraded shafts with full c clips!
 

Cajun JK

New member
When choosing gear ratio’s I notice that many folks are too conservative. The popular calculations out there will show you the RPM change at a given speed, but that is not the whole answer.

The size of tires varies greatly. If the sidewall says 35” or 37”, it is just an estimate. Reputable tire manufacturers like BFG, have more detailed data on their websites for each tire, but even that is still an estimate.

Inflation pressure and vehicle weight compress the bottom of the tire. It is different for every tire on every car. The number that is most accurate is called Static Loaded Radius (SLR). That is the distance from axle CL to the ground when the car is loaded, and the tire is inflated to a given pressure. You can measure this yourself in your driveway. Multiply that measurement x2 to get a more accurate tire diameter for your calculation.

The other factor to consider is that tires rolling on pavement create friction and drag. Larger tires create more friction and drag. Lift kits also increase frontal area that adds wind resistance.

Some folks think that if the engine turns slower they will save fuel. Not necessarily. The engine is designed to be most efficient in a given power band. The factory makes this decision to conform to Federal fuel economy laws (CAFE). If the ratio is too high (low numeric number), then the engine will lug, and burn more fuel. The transmission will also spend less time in OD, and hunt in and out frequently. Also bad for fuel economy.

When you do your calculation, you are better off having the engine spin somewhat faster than stock (higher numeric gear ratio, aka lower gear). That will maintain optimal fuel economy, and overcome the wind drag from higher body height, and rolling resistance of the bigger tires on pavement. It will also make the car far more fun to drive. It will feel lively and responsive.

So my SLR is 14.75 x 2= 29.5. So does this mean that my 255/75r17 are 29.5 in diameter instead of 32.1? Thanks
 
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