I do not want to run any tire larger than 35's.
I just found out that my 4inch list is a 5+ inch lift which I am fine with BUT I do not want to go any higher. I almost do not fit in the garage. and the parking garage at work. Anything taller and my fat ass will not be able to jump into it. I weigh in at 350. Yep I am a big boy..
Holy cow that's a sky high lift for just a set of 35's! You'd actually consider going taller if not for your parking garage or need to get in your Jeep?! At most, I'd only run 3" of lift. Hell, I'm running just 4" of lift to clear my 40's right now but, if you're just into that 1980's sky high look, to each their own.
I don't want to go hydraulic $$$$
There's no need for just a set of 35's.
So the clearance issues I am going to face are from the 35 so I will be beating up the diff cover and TR but the Diff cover I posted a short while back is the toughest one on the market. The entire cover is made out of a single piece of 1/2 thick steel. Not 1/4 inch. So taking a rock to the diff is handled.
Please don't take this the wrong way but, try placing your tires on the obstacles instead of ramming your diff into them. Aftermarket diff covers look cool and just for that but, I wouldn't even think twice about running a thin factory cover on any trail you can think of.
I am looking for a way to move the steering up out of the way.
Again, I can guarantee you that no matter how high you move your steering, you will STILL hit your tie-rod. This is why I recommend that you save your money and invest it in a HD tie-rod like what Currie makes as it will be able to take the beating.
I do have a tiny bit of bump steer and it wonders but with the lift and I am running all stock control arms, I know I need to do something to make my drag link etc a little flatter.
If you're really running 5"+ of lift and running stock control arms, your Jeep should be riding like crap. If you've never addressed your steering geometry, your handling should feel like crap too. Also, you cannot just make your drag link sit flatter - you NEED to make your track bar sit parallel to it as well. If you do not, you will have even worse handling than you have now.
I don't want to ruin a new set of tires.
You have a solid front axle and therefore - they do not cause the kind of bump steer that you'd see with IFS. You will not ruin your tires. If your toe is off or your shocks/coils suck, then yeah, you can ruin them that way.
I drive shaft guy said my rear pinion angle may be about 2 degrees of but it is pretty good.
If you're still running factory drive shafts, it won't make a difference how off the angle of it is as they use rzeppa joints and won't cause any vibrations. What you should be concerned with is how steep it's now sitting with the crazy amount of lift you have on your 2-door. This steepness will cause your joints to sit in a constant state of pinch and that will cause the boots to fail prematurely and that will lead to bearing failure.
He told me to work on the front...
Not sure why your shop would recommend you work on the front first. You have a 2009 with a manual, your front shaft will not have the same kind of contact issues that an auto of the same year would have or even a manual on a 2012-up would have. It's also a much longer shaft than your rear and while you do have a crazy amount of lift, the CV boots should outlast the ones on your rear shaft being that they will not be pinching as much.
...but if I wanted to do the back to get both upper and lower control arms at the same time to move the whole axle back about an inch
Let me guess, your shop is a Rock Krawler dealer, right? Honestly, with the crazy tall lift you have, what you really need is a long arm kit as it will help you to restore your suspension geometry and that's really what you need.
The front was going to be the same deal to move it forward so both control arms but he knew I was wondering on the road.
For the most part it goes straight unless there is a dip or high spot on the road. San Antonio has horrible roads. It breaks dead straight and fast.
You are wandering because your caster is most likely way off.
So save future tire wear, ground clearance as much as possible, better steering geometry, I don't think I will break a 44 the way I wheel but I do get a little crazy when I am out there.
You can install the tallest lift in the world but in the end, the lowest point on your Jeep will still be the bottom of your axle and diff. The only way to get them higher off the ground is by installing bigger tires. Ideally, a good setup would be to keep your Jeep as LOW as possible while running the biggest tire possible. This will give you greater ground clearance, provide much better approach, break over and departure angles AND do it all with a much lower center of gravity.
Sooner or later I will get a bumper and winch maybe I can lower my front end by a inch or so
At most, a super heavy bumper and winch will only cause your front end to sag about 3/4" - less if you have stiff coils.
I am looking into Currie (as Eddy suggested) control arms. Should I get front upper and lowers first or do the rear end? Right there is 600.00 (Northridge HELP!!!!!) 600.00 Just for the tie rod? What kind of steel do they use.
To be clear, what I recommended was their HD tie-rod being that you were looking into a high steer kit, not their control arms. Yes, it is pricey but if you get it, you won't need to get a high steer kit that costs just as much just for the orange knuckles and more for the arms as well.
