engo light bar wiring harness install?
- Thread starter In5ane1
- Start date
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
If it's a harness it should be ready. Plug it to the light connect ground and power and be done.
Here is the engo harness. Can the negative go to one of the bolts by the battery or should it go to negative terminal?
The other harness for my other two single leds is similar to engo harness but the switch has its own positive and negative. I know the switch positive goes to battery but it doesnt have inline fuse. Only the relay positive does. Also the switch has a negative. Where is best place near firewall on drivers side to attach negative?
The other harness for my other two single leds is similar to engo harness but the switch has its own positive and negative. I know the switch positive goes to battery but it doesnt have inline fuse. Only the relay positive does. Also the switch has a negative. Where is best place near firewall on drivers side to attach negative?
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
The ENGO harness ground can go to either a bolt or the negative, whatever is easier.
Your other switch needs a fuse. If you get a fuse with the correct amperage you can tie both positives into one and run it to the battery. You can ground it on the drivers side dash behind the panel. There should be two bolts there that will be fine for grounds.
Thanks.
The other switch is supposed to be plug and play. Wonder why it didnt come with a fuse? The two lights are 18w each I believe. Would a 15 amp fuse be good?
Last edited:
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Do you have a picture of the harness? Did it come with a switch or are you adding your own?
You should be good. I think 20W is like 2 amps.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
You'll be fine with that harness. I have a very similar one and I just plugged it into the battery.
Ok...no inline fuse?
pvanweelden
New member
Yes - 36/12=3 amps is correct- go with the 5 instead of the 30
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Just making sure...thx! Wonder why they package the kit like that...is that not a potential fire hazard?
pvanweelden
New member
The 30 amp fuse would still blow if there is a serious problem like a short. Yes, it could allow the wires to get pretty hot before it would blow, but you said 14-16 gauge wiring, if it was 18-20 gauge wires, I would be concerned.
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Wires to lights are 18 awg. Relay to battery 16 awg.
pvanweelden
New member
^ then be glad you aren't going to use the 30 amp fuse :thumbup:
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Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
pvanweelden
New member
Like I said before- the 30 would still blow if a problem came in to the equation. At least a relay and a fuse is included in the wiring :thumbup:
I don't want to tell you that you are over thinking this, but you are
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I don't want to tell you that you are over thinking this, but you are
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pvanweelden
New member
Just wanted to point out that we are talking about LED lights, and not 100 watt KC lights here. Leds are a lot more efficient and draw a lot less current than the older bulbs.
One led light is averaging 3 watts, the lights he has- have 6 leds per fixture= 18 watts, 2 of those equal 36 watts/12 volts= 3 amps current draw
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One led light is averaging 3 watts, the lights he has- have 6 leds per fixture= 18 watts, 2 of those equal 36 watts/12 volts= 3 amps current draw
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app