RCCRWLR build (retroactive)

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Rccrwlr

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The build that happened many years ago

This will be the build thread
In the beginning there was this
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And we did this, and that, and out on some of those and we are now up to here
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Along the way we ended up here a lot
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And it's a funny story

Stay tuned as I try to remember what we did because here is where we are going
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Rccrwlr

New member
Proper maint is key to prevent this
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We were able to fill the grooves and get it back together
 

Rccrwlr

New member
Awesome, is that a v8 under the hood?? 

Actually it is. VIN states is came with a 304 but when we rebuilt it 10 yrs ago we found it is a 360. Prob out of a 72-ish Wagoneer. We are 3rd owner and 2 prev owner was the orig owner that did the engine swap. It has been passing smog up until we moved.
 

RockyJk

Active Member
Actually it is. VIN states is came with a 304 but when we rebuilt it 10 yrs ago we found it is a 360. Prob out of a 72-ish Wagoneer. We are 3rd owner and 2 prev owner was the orig owner that did the engine swap. It has been passing smog up until we moved.

Oh nice!! Did it not pass cause it's a 360 and not the 304??
 

Rccrwlr

New member
Oh nice!! Did it not pass cause it's a 360 and not the 304??

No. Just no smog laws in the Tahoe basin where it is registered. We will be swapping an Edelbrock 4 brl for the Howell. I will be updating the build sheet shortly
 

RockyJk

Active Member
No. Just no smog laws in the Tahoe basin where it is registered. We will be swapping an Edelbrock 4 brl for the Howell. I will be updating the build sheet shortly

Oh right on

Will be following along on your build 👍
 

Rccrwlr

New member
Truck-Lites installed
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They are a bit bug eyes compared to stock but the light output is SOOOO much better
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Low
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High
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Biggest issue was the stock lights pulled quite a bit of current and caused the light switch to fail over time. Especially if I was pulling a trailer. When the switch would overheat all lights would shut down and we would be running in "stealth mode" for a few seconds until it turned back on and then repeat. With the TL now the switch is always cool, high or low beam. Very happy!!


"One only needs to follow those that have been there/done that to learn how to do things proper the first time" BCH
 

Rccrwlr

New member
Took some time to start the process of cleaning up the wiring on the Jeep. I have been hacking things into the system since high school. Big amps, subs, misc lights, compressor and ARB switches.

I built an extra Waytekwire relay panel per member instructions when I built one for the JK.

I found a place to mount it but quickly realized that I needed to pull the battery tray to to attach the bracket.
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While it was out I cleaned it up and put a bit of primer and a black topcoat
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Installed and checked fitment
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Good to go! Next will be to remove all of the fuses and relays and install the OTRATTW switches and rockers.


"One only needs to follow those that have been there/done that to learn how to do things proper the first time" BCH
 
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Rccrwlr

New member
Today's progress
Removed all old switches and wiring
Removed all old fuse blocks
Ran new wires
Installed circuit breaker
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"One only needs to follow those that have been there/done that to learn how to do things proper the first time" BCH
 

Rccrwlr

New member
Switch rockers
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"One only needs to follow those that have been there/done that to learn how to do things proper the first time" BCH
 

Rccrwlr

New member
More work updates

Air filter and oil filler cap
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Tbi and spacer installed
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Switches installed and functional
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Vacuum line done, fuel line done, ECM installed, all but the ignition wire is connected. Unfortunately when I was re-routing some wires I pulled a plug wire and I came apart. Need a new set now. Almost ready for a test fire


--rccrwlr
 

Rccrwlr

New member
Air system re-worked. Now I have regulated pressure to the locker and full 120 psi to the tank for filling tires and running tools. Need a few more fittings so I can get rid of the stupid tube loop for the dash gauge but it's pretty much functional. Flipping the air comp switch locks the compressor clutch so it should work!

Air comes out if the compressor into a check valve then the manifold 1. Man1 has pressure switch, pop off valve, dash gauge attachment, then runs to a T that connects to man2 and the tank. Man2 inlet is regulated and has the locker SV and gauge. Air hose attaches at the front bumper on the left of the winch. Need a cap for this but it runs straight off the tank.
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--rccrwlr
 

Woody3

New member
I may have missed it earlier but what compressor are you running? Factory AC?


Keep your head low and your powder dry.
 

Rccrwlr

New member
I may have missed it earlier but what compressor are you running? Factory AC?


Keep your head low and your powder dry.

Sorry for the delayed response. Ya it's the stock compressor. Jeep came from the factory with AC but one of the PO got rid of the under dash unit. We converted it to the compressor for the air system. I believe it's a York unit. Front bumper is the tank




--rccrwlr
 

Woody3

New member
I'm thinking about doing the same thing. (Convert my factory AC pump to on board air).


Keep your head low and your powder dry.
 
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