Front Rubicon 44 Build up

Hopefully within the next couple of weeks i will be purchasing a stock front rubicon44 housing. My plans are to strengthen the housing with sleeves and C-gussets, purchase 35 spline chromo shafts with full circle clips, upgrade ball joints, install an ARB air locker, re-gear front and rear, purchase new diff covers, and for driveshafts, i will be running 1350's. My questions are:

1) Can i run 35 spline shafts with inner sleeves? I heard that they will not fit...

2) Does ARB make a 35 spline locker for the front rubi44 housing? They have a few options but I'm not sure what the difference is

3) What brand should i be looking at for ball joints, axle shafts, gears, diff cover (that will work with ARB locker), driveshafts

4) Will brakes off of my D30 fit the rubicon housing?

5) Is there anything else i am forgetting besides what is listed above?


For the Rear, i would like to purchase new chromo axle shafts as well and install an ARB locker with a new diff cover for my Sport D44. Is there anything else needed for the rear? what spline count on the rear shafts should i be looking for, 35 as well?

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Sean
 

StrizzyChris

New member
1- no
2- yes
3- any chromo shaft that has full circle clips, certainly the arb diff cover would work with it, any set of gears just be sure to get a rebuild kit as well, prosteer are the best ball joints you can get but be prepared to pay for them
4- yes
5- all your locker equipment (ie compressor, switches, etc.) Will need to be added to the list
 
1- no
2- yes
3- any chromo shaft that has full circle clips, certainly the arb diff cover would work with it, any set of gears just be sure to get a rebuild kit as well, prosteer are the best ball joints you can get but be prepared to pay for them
4- yes
5- all your locker equipment (ie compressor, switches, etc.) Will need to be added to the list

I read somewhere that the evo sleeves will not work but another brand that I don't remember the name to, will work with 35 spline shafts. And I have an ARB dual compressor waiting for install
 

StrizzyChris

New member
Not to tell you what to do....but by the time you buy all of that, you could have bought a Dynatrac PR44 that's much better than what you spent all that time and effort to build :twocents:
 
Not to tell you what to do....but by the time you buy all of that, you could have bought a Dynatrac PR44 that's much better than what you spent all that time and effort to build :twocents:

I figure a prorock 44 is right around 6k with equivalent options, to build a rubi44 is around 3k from what I've priced out. Is that about correct if I were to get the housing for $700?
 

dahreno

Banned
You could buy a Dynatrac housing, install your internals, then down the road if need be, upgrade it.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
I'm too lazy to look up everything above but ARB locker is 1100, chromo shafts 800+/-, housing 700, pro steer bj 600+/- and plus gussets, your sleeves ( which I wouldn't get) your gears and overhaul kit.
Are you installing and welding everything? If not the labor alone for all of that will be over 2,000 easily.
 

JAGS

Hooked
I figure a prorock 44 is right around 6k with equivalent options, to build a rubi44 is around 3k from what I've priced out. Is that about correct if I were to get the housing for $700?

Might be close without any labor. If you have the skills and know how to do it yourself and be comfortable driving on your work everyday, more power to ya. I'd be scared that damn thing would fall apart and metal pieces start flying out from under my jeep.

You could buy a Dynatrac housing, install your internals, then down the road if need be, upgrade it.

I was headed down this road and there are arguments/points to be made on both side here. Some people say the internals will likely go before a "normal" wheeler bends a housing. Most bent housings come from heavy wheeling with coilovers, like Eddie and a lot of folks do here. Others have your line of thinking. Not sure either is right or wrong.
 
I'm too lazy to look up everything above but ARB locker is 1100, chromo shafts 800+/-, housing 700, pro steer bj 600+/- and plus gussets, your sleeves ( which I wouldn't get) your gears and overhaul kit.
Are you installing and welding everything? If not the labor alone for all of that will be over 2,000 easily.

I am on the fence about sleeves as I have heard both good things and heard they are not necessary. That said, I know a few people that can do the welding for the c gussets and I am pretty handy with tools so installing parts should not be a big deal for me.
 
Might be close without any labor. If you have the skills and know how to do it yourself and be comfortable driving on your work everyday, more power to ya. I'd be scared that damn thing would fall apart and metal pieces start flying out from under my jeep.

Well nothing has flown out from under my jeep yet with lift install, sliders, tire carrier and bumpers, etc... So I think I will be okay with the install.



I was headed down this road and there are arguments/points to be made on both side here. Some people say the internals will likely go before a "normal" wheeler bends a housing. Most bent housings come from heavy wheeling with coilovers, like Eddie and a lot of folks do here. Others have your line of thinking. Not sure either is right or wrong.

I will agree that once you get coilovers, you tend to go harder than you thought you would as I have heard others with coilovers say that but I think the rubicon axle will hold up fine in the strength department after gussets and possible sleeves. I figure you can strengthen a rubicon44 for about half the cost of a pro rock 44 and with the wheeling I do, I do not think a pro rock is necessary since I go nowhere near as hard as Eddie and some others do. In the future, if I feel the need to upgrade to a pro rock, I can just ditch the housing and throw the internals in the new housing.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
In that case, I'd just add up all your prices and double check them a few times...then compare that to the out the door cost of a pr44 and then look at your budget. Only you can determine what will work for you in that aspect.

The only thing I will add is that you'll need a few special tools to measure the inch pound or your backlash and pinion bearing preload.
 
In that case, I'd just add up all your prices and double check them a few times...then compare that to the out the door cost of a pr44 and then look at your budget. Only you can determine what will work for you in that aspect.

The only thing I will add is that you'll need a few special tools to measure the inch pound or your backlash and pinion bearing preload.

Will do! Doing a gear/ locker install may be something I will let the professionals do but everything else, I can do myself. My budget is pretty limited at this time so it'll be a very slow build up and hopefully It will be done in time for 37's when my 35's wear out. When purchasing a 1350 driveshaft, will I need to modify the axle with parts that do not come with the driveshaft or does everything needed typically come with a coast or JE reel shaft?
 

suicideking

New member
Will do! Doing a gear/ locker install may be something I will let the professionals do but everything else, I can do myself. My budget is pretty limited at this time so it'll be a very slow build up and hopefully It will be done in time for 37's when my 35's wear out. When purchasing a 1350 driveshaft, will I need to modify the axle with parts that do not come with the driveshaft or does everything needed typically come with a coast or JE reel shaft?

All the parts will come with the DS. I'm installing mine Sunday, so will let you know if anything else other than tools and locktite are needed.

Regarding the D44, skip the sleeve. I have a Sport and bought a Rubi D44 front and had it sleeved because I didn't know any better. Found out later about the 35 spline shafts not fitting which eliminates the 35 spline ARB. I'm a ways away (other mods to do first), but not sure what I'll end up putting in the front. Love my ARB in the rear, wish I could add one in the front too. Maybe Eaton (not sure if it will fit), or Ox (will fit).

Also, with the sleeve, it's been mentioned on here many times that breaking a tube is pretty rare anyways. It's just not necessary. There is some sort of sleeve that is a clam shell design that bolts on the outside. Maybe check into that if you must sleeve. Or even a truss.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
You can get a PR for around $4000 if you don't get the best of everything. The $7000 price tag is with the prosteers, Reid knuckles, RCV's and ARB.
 

JAGS

Hooked
You can get a PR for around $4000 if you don't get the best of everything. The $7000 price tag is with the prosteers, Reid knuckles, RCV's and ARB.

Installed? 4k would have to be using a lot of existing internals, knuckels, brakes, ball joints, etc. Not to mention the likely needed gear install.

Again, one can save a lot and maybe get that 4k if they do self install. But most don't have that high level of skill set.


- Jason
 

4x4Jesus

Caught the Bug
Just to throw it out there I am currently driving on a bent rubicon 44 that I had sleeved and gusseted and I'm only running 35s. I don't consider myself a hard wheeler and don't necessarily drive that fast offroad. I wouldn't waste any money on a factory axle. Run what you got and save for a pr44. I will be ordering my pr44 in the next couple weeks and am going to reuse my locker and knuckles but am upgrading to chromoly shafts and having it installed and it will be right at $4k
 
Just to throw it out there I am currently driving on a bent rubicon 44 that I had sleeved and gusseted and I'm only running 35s. I don't consider myself a hard wheeler and don't necessarily drive that fast offroad. I wouldn't waste any money on a factory axle. Run what you got and save for a pr44. I will be ordering my pr44 in the next couple weeks and am going to reuse my locker and knuckles but am upgrading to chromoly shafts and having it installed and it will be right at $4k

I've been running 35's on my d30 for a little under a year now with no issues, I'm worried about bending it or breaking it and haven't regeared because I don't want to make it any weaker. Unfortunately, I can't switch much over to a pro rock besides the brakes on my d30 so It will cost me than 4k
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
You can get a PR for around $4000 if you don't get the best of everything. The $7000 price tag is with the prosteers, Reid knuckles, RCV's and ARB.

^^^ this. i got quoted from dynatrac last year sometime on a PR44. it had 5.13 gears, oem ball joints, arb locker, unlimited housing, custom length 30 spline chromoly shafts with full circle clips, and 1310 u joint. all for just under 4k. here is the invoice

JK44-1X3010-B
1
Custom Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 Partial Front Axle Assembly w/ARB Air Locker - '07-12 Jeep JK
3,837.00
3,837.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 High Pinion, High Ground Clearance Heavy Duty Nodular Iron Housing
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Heavy Duty 3.0" Diameter, 5/16" Wall DOM Housing Tube Assemblies, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Unlimited Pro Rock 44 Housing Upgrade, Provides Extra Caster & Shock Mount Relocation for 3+" Suspension Lifts - UPGRADE
89.00
89.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Stock JK Axle Width - 65.5"
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Heavy Duty 3/16" JK Coil Spring Suspension Brackets, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Raised Track Bar Bracket Modification for High Steer/Flipped Drag Link Applications - Optional Upgrade = add $79.00
0.00
0.00
DA44-1X4033-F
1
Dynatrac Heavy Duty Pro Rock 44 Nodular Iron Powder Coated Differential Cover, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Heavy Duty Pro Series 44 JK End Forgings, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Heavy Duty Open Differential, D44, 30 Spline, Installed
- (Upgrade to ARB Air Locker Differential, Installed = add $439.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
D44 JK New Generation 5.13 Reverse-Cut Ring and Pinion, Installed
0.00
0.00
JP44-4851-C
1
1310 U-bolt Style Pinion Yoke, Installed, w/Yoke Kit
- (Upgrade to 1350 Yoke, Installed = add $29.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Custom Length 30 Spline USA-Grade 4340 Chromoly Inner Axle Shafts, Fit Stock JK 1310 U-Joint
- (Upgrade to Heavy Duty RCV Performance USA Grade 4340 Chromoly Inner and Outer Ultimate CV Axle Shaft Assemblies w/RCV's Lifetime Warranty = add $796.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
OEM JK Ball Joints, Installed
- (Upgrade to Dynatrac ProSteer Heavy Duty Ball Joints, Installed = add $499.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Customer to Reuse Stock Wheel End Components (Knuckles, Hub Bearings, Disc Brakes, Outer Axle Shafts, and U-joints)
0.00
0.00
Subtotal
3,926.00
Shipping Cost (FedEx Freight® Economy)
0.00
Total
$3,926.00



as you can see you can upgrade everything but that adds to the overall cost
 
^^^ this. i got quoted from dynatrac last year sometime on a PR44. it had 5.13 gears, oem ball joints, arb locker, unlimited housing, custom length 30 spline chromoly shafts with full circle clips, and 1310 u joint. all for just under 4k. here is the invoice

JK44-1X3010-B
1
Custom Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 Partial Front Axle Assembly w/ARB Air Locker - '07-12 Jeep JK
3,837.00
3,837.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 High Pinion, High Ground Clearance Heavy Duty Nodular Iron Housing
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Heavy Duty 3.0" Diameter, 5/16" Wall DOM Housing Tube Assemblies, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Unlimited Pro Rock 44 Housing Upgrade, Provides Extra Caster & Shock Mount Relocation for 3+" Suspension Lifts - UPGRADE
89.00
89.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Stock JK Axle Width - 65.5"
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Heavy Duty 3/16" JK Coil Spring Suspension Brackets, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Raised Track Bar Bracket Modification for High Steer/Flipped Drag Link Applications - Optional Upgrade = add $79.00
0.00
0.00
DA44-1X4033-F
1
Dynatrac Heavy Duty Pro Rock 44 Nodular Iron Powder Coated Differential Cover, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Dynatrac Heavy Duty Pro Series 44 JK End Forgings, Installed
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Heavy Duty Open Differential, D44, 30 Spline, Installed
- (Upgrade to ARB Air Locker Differential, Installed = add $439.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
D44 JK New Generation 5.13 Reverse-Cut Ring and Pinion, Installed
0.00
0.00
JP44-4851-C
1
1310 U-bolt Style Pinion Yoke, Installed, w/Yoke Kit
- (Upgrade to 1350 Yoke, Installed = add $29.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Custom Length 30 Spline USA-Grade 4340 Chromoly Inner Axle Shafts, Fit Stock JK 1310 U-Joint
- (Upgrade to Heavy Duty RCV Performance USA Grade 4340 Chromoly Inner and Outer Ultimate CV Axle Shaft Assemblies w/RCV's Lifetime Warranty = add $796.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
OEM JK Ball Joints, Installed
- (Upgrade to Dynatrac ProSteer Heavy Duty Ball Joints, Installed = add $499.00)
0.00
0.00
General Dynatrac Axle
1
Customer to Reuse Stock Wheel End Components (Knuckles, Hub Bearings, Disc Brakes, Outer Axle Shafts, and U-joints)
0.00
0.00
Subtotal
3,926.00
Shipping Cost (FedEx Freight® Economy)
0.00
Total
$3,926.00



as you can see you can upgrade everything but that adds to the overall cost

I'll have to request quote from them. Would it be the same price from off road evolution as it would be straight from dynatrack?
 
All the parts will come with the DS. I'm installing mine Sunday, so will let you know if anything else other than tools and locktite are needed.

Regarding the D44, skip the sleeve. I have a Sport and bought a Rubi D44 front and had it sleeved because I didn't know any better. Found out later about the 35 spline shafts not fitting which eliminates the 35 spline ARB. I'm a ways away (other mods to do first), but not sure what I'll end up putting in the front. Love my ARB in the rear, wish I could add one in the front too. Maybe Eaton (not sure if it will fit), or Ox (will fit).

Also, with the sleeve, it's been mentioned on here many times that breaking a tube is pretty rare anyways. It's just not necessary. There is some sort of sleeve that is a clam shell design that bolts on the outside. Maybe check into that if you must sleeve. Or even a truss.

Yes, I've seen the outer sleeve as well but I forgot who makes it. If a sleeve isn't necessary, I will just do gussets but I know another company makes inner sleeves that will work with 35 spline shafts that I'm looking into.
 
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