Wobble problems

2012wrangler

New member
I know that there is a lot of info on DW, much of which I have read and read...and read. I think much of the info is for jeeps that have been around awhile and have potential wear. My jeep has less than 18,000 miles, with only a couple of light off road/mud adventures. My story below, any help would be super appreciated.

Sorry for the long post, but I want to give all the info the first time to avoid wrong information because of not knowing the whole story.

2012 wrangler sport. Here is what I have on the Jeep now:

Rims: steel. I’m thinking these might be the problem because they are heavy and I have read that steel rims are never really perfect round.

These are not hub-centric:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92600_0009_07.htm

Tires, pretty heavy, also suspect, but then again you can’t swing a dead cat without hitting a jeep doing just fine with bigger tires. They seem to be wearing correctly. They are directional and are on correct in that regard:
LT305/65R17

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92609_13XX_PG.htm

In addition to the wheels (and at the same time) I had a shop put on a budget coil spacer lift, 1” back, 2” front (leveling kit with bump stops) No extended swaybar links.

Problem started when I put the aftermarket wheels/tires/lift on. Shimmy (not death wobble) started immediately around 35mph, went away around 45mph). Put OEM wheels back on and shimmy goes away. This makes me think the lift kit was installed correctly (I hope). Back at the shop, they added an aftermarket stabilizer (steering one did not help, I got the other) and it helped, but did not solve the problem. After several trips to the shop, each requiring several hours (they are really busy) and 2 rebalances, I gave up on the shop and took it to be road force balanced. They said a rim did not spec out, showed me the computer printout. Got rim replaced, shimmy went away. So now all was good with the new combo on. I thought at this point that the issue was behind me.

5000 miles later, I rotate front to back. Now I get real death wobble. Shimmy is there all the time, all speeds over 25mph. Hit a bump and Jeep virtually uncontrollable, have to slow down to under 25mph for control to come back (death wobble for sure). Maybe the road force place was only concerned with the front? This is the only road force place around me and I don’t want to go back. They are very busy, destroyed several lug bolts, managed to lose (and deny that they lost) one of my air pressure sensors. These guys act like they are doing me a personal favor just by taking over 100.00 for balancing my tires. (end rant). But they did fix the problem. So put my wheels back the way they were from the road force place and all is good.

Fast forward another 3,000 miles. I’m beginning to see a little shimmy sometimes around 40mph. I also had one case the other day when I hit a bump while decelerating at 40mph and got a pretty big shimmy for a couple of seconds. So now my worry is that the problem is just being masked and will come back down the road as components wear. Also, I can't rotate, and when the tires wear out and are replaced, I imagine I will have problems again (not to mention another 140.00 for another Road Force balance.

If the shop had messed something up doing the lift, wouldn't I have the problem even after the road force balance and with the OEM wheels? The "loosen everything, shake it, and retighten" advice seems wise but I'm no mechanic (don’t even have a torque wrench, or know the specs), I'm afraid I might find myself in worse shape (and this is my daily driver). They say that it was torqued on the ground, and all seems good and tight, but they may just have said that to get rid of me.

For all I know, my issue could be caused by all these factors, rims, tires, lift. Maybe all these things are off just a bit and it adds up to my problem? That is the frustrating part.

I read on the internet that DW can come from the tires/wheels being too heavy. Could that be it? These steel wheels are heavy for sure. I’ve also read that steel rims are never really perfect round and that I should go alloy.

I found this rim: http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-...UTF8&qid=1394449577&sr=8-1&keywords=jeep+rims

It’s hub centric and alloy, could this be my answer? Very expensive for my limited budget, I would really be bummed if I spent this money and had the same problem!

One other thing. The dampener I have is a Skyjacker Hydro 7000 Series shock absorber – so It’s not made (I imagine) specifically for steering. Problem?

Thanxs again, I really appreciate the help, I'm not much of a mechanic, and know next to nothing about Jeep suspensions.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
i would go to another shop and have your tires rebalanced. i essentally have the same wheels (black rock soft 8's) and have really heavy 315/75/r16 mud grapplers on mine and dont have any sort of wobble. also i would check your trackbar and make sure its torqued down properly. 125 pound feet i believe. also what tire pressure are you running? most run around 28-30 psi.
 

dunstan74

New member
Problem started when I put the aftermarket wheels/tires/lift on. Shimmy (not death wobble) started immediately around 35mph, went away around 45mph). Put OEM wheels back on and shimmy goes away. [/QUOTE]

Did you remove the factory assembly washers before putting after market wheels on?
 

2012wrangler

New member
thanx for your input, really hoping that the 140 i paid for balance was not wasted. i checked and my air pressure was down to 20, so good advice there for sure. i put it up to 29 and the jeep seems much better, but I whould think this is just a bandaid?

Hadn't thought about the wheel washers, will check. they are so thin...

someone said i should get a spacer to make the rim hub-centric, any opinion.

thanx again.

dave
 
I had the same issue on Canvas and took it to my local tire shop and had the wheels balanced. Drivers front was out by 3oz and passenger was out by 4oz. The tire dude said with big tires .5oz out will give you a shimmy. I would get the tires balanced first and the go from there.

R/
Will
 

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
buy a torque wrench and socket set. worth the money. most dw is caused from loose or worn suspension parts. if your tires are already balanced, and double check your wheel washers were removed also.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
before you toss any more money at it, go to a reputable tire shop and get your tires balanced, Discount tire uses Road Force balancing machines that are very accurate.

If your previous shop used clip on weights they tend to fall off. Also, when you rotate your tires have them re-balanced each time.

That shop that tried to mask the issue by replacing your steering stabilizer should refund that cost and put your stock SS back on.
 

2012wrangler

New member
before you toss any more money at it, go to a reputable tire shop and get your tires balanced, Discount tire uses Road Force balancing machines that are very accurate.

If your previous shop used clip on weights they tend to fall off. Also, when you rotate your tires have them re-balanced each time.

That shop that tried to mask the issue by replacing your steering stabilizer should refund that cost and put your stock SS back on.

Thanx for the good info. The only place around me that does road force is the one that I took it to. I wish the Discount tire place her did. They are stick on, but as I go in the mud from time to time, I put just enough duct tape on them, and they are still present. I just been afraid to undo the 140 road force and end up worse as they did make it better. Except the rear, of course, that when on the front make it undrivable. The steering stabalizer was free :)
 

montanajeeper

New member
Hadn't thought about the wheel washers, will check. they are so thin...

Those retainer clips are not on every stud. So, unless they are all removed, non-stock wheels can never sit completely flush against the hub/disc.

I learned this the hard way when I installed wheel spacers on my TJ without removing those clips. I couldn't figure out the shimmy until I pulled things apart and saw that the spacer couldn't sit flush on the wheel.
 
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AZDIESELPIG

Member
Having had death wobble on my 2013 2 door:

If you have DW, its to late to balamce tires - waste of money

If you have DW - SS...waste of money

Alignment to fix DW - waste of money


If you have DW, you need to check:

Tracbar - is torqued to spec? Are the mounting holes wallowed out?

Are your control arms good?

Check for bad ball joints.

Masking the problem with sterring stabalizers, blancing tires etc only creates more damage down the road and you will end up fixing 3 things instead of one.

I chased the problem for 2 weeks and 2 shops before we found that my OEM upper and ball joints were bad. I only had 8,000 miles on them also. So as you breark stuff, DO NOT replace it with OEM - upgrade it.
 
Having had death wobble on my 2013 2 door:

If you have DW, its to late to balamce tires - waste of money

You must've found this tidbit of WRONG info on another forum. Unbalanced tires IS one of the main causes of Death Wobble. However, retorquing after EACH episode of DW is step #1 as each episode can and will loosen the front end bolts, specifically the track bar bolts.
 

2012wrangler

New member
Problem solved

Problem solved. After many people telling me that the steel rims have imperfect welds and will always cause problems, I broke the bank and bought some alloy wheels. ProComp 7069. Put them on and the problem is completly gone. I went out of my way trying to make it shimmy, hitting bumps goiing 40mph etc. Rides like the day I first rolled it off the lot.

Moral of the story, don't put steel wheels on the new Wranglers. Although you may get lucky, many people like myself have lerned an expensive lesson.

thanx for all the advice.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Having had death wobble on my 2013 2 door:

If you have DW, its to late to balamce tires - waste of money

If you have DW - SS...waste of money

Alignment to fix DW - waste of money


If you have DW, you need to check:

Tracbar - is torqued to spec? Are the mounting holes wallowed out?

Are your control arms good?

Check for bad ball joints.

Masking the problem with sterring stabalizers, blancing tires etc only creates more damage down the road and you will end up fixing 3 things instead of one.

I chased the problem for 2 weeks and 2 shops before we found that my OEM upper and ball joints were bad. I only had 8,000 miles on them also. So as you breark stuff, DO NOT replace it with OEM - upgrade it.

You give some really bad advice in that post. Control arms won't cause death wobble. Tire balancing CAN help it along. And your alignment is certainly a factor in death wobble.
 
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