9/16ths Trackbar bolt replacements

JEEPnGEO

JEEPnGEO

New member
I did the bolt swap and was totally shocked to see the factory bolts VS the new bolts. I love how the new ones fit and the way they perform. After I installed them I had a very tame drive to the shop where I get my alignments done.

I also did something different. I took the captured nut and removed it from the key and placed the new nut in there and welded it in place. I had to take a grinder to the nut to make it fit. It worked like a charm. Here are some pics.

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Without the edges. I used a chisel
20140315_150339.jpg
Ground the bolt with a bench grinder
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Welded it to match the original. I did both sides.
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Finished product
20140315_193121.jpg
Can't see the head but you can see the captured bolt right there kind of laying down. I want to get a steering stabilizer with a smaller diameter. I have no clue what is on here and how good it is. Looks like it is leaking a little too.
20140315_193055.jpg
I replaced both lower and upper bolts.
I noticed a change in the handling on my way to the alignment shop. I almost didn't get one.

I did use lock washers and Grade 8 hardware.
 
JKUx

JKUx

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Lol how can you love the way a bolt feels?
Click to expand...


^^^LOL!!!^^^

But in all seriousness, is this what corrects death wobble to remove slop from the track bar mounting point(s).

I haven't experienced this yet; however I would like to be pro-active on this by replacing 1 or all in that area if necessary.

Should I replace during front track bar upgrade?
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
JKUx said:
^^^LOL!!!^^^

But in all seriousness, is this what corrects death wobble to remove slop from the track bar mounting point(s).

I haven't experienced this yet; however I would like to be pro-active on this by replacing 1 or all in that area if necessary.

Should I replace during front track bar upgrade?
Click to expand...

No. If your bolts are properly torqued to spec you don't need to replace bolts.
 
MTG

MTG

Caught the Bug
JKUx said:
^^^LOL!!!^^^

But in all seriousness, is this what corrects death wobble to remove slop from the track bar mounting point(s).

I haven't experienced this yet; however I would like to be pro-active on this by replacing 1 or all in that area if necessary.

Should I replace during front track bar upgrade?
Click to expand...

No and no.
 
JEEPnGEO

JEEPnGEO

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Lol how can you love the way a bolt feels?
Click to expand...

You asked...

Truthfully seeing a larger hole with a small bolt looks really sloppy. I think from the start there should of been a snug fit. I think torque setting from the manufacturer are for a stock jeep driving on the road and very little or no off road travel.

My stuff was pretty tight when trying to take everything apart. Pucker factor was a solid 3 out of 5 I could tell there was left and right movement.


Ball joints are tight, tie rod ends are tight why not everything else that has something to do with steering.


At least I didn't say "CUTE"
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JEEPnGEO said:
Truthfully seeing a larger hole with a small bolt looks really sloppy.
Click to expand...

Truthfully, if you really think that, you had better not look at any of the other mounting holes on your Jeep or else you're gonna want to replace all your bolts. :crazyeyes:

I think from the start there should of been a snug fit.
Click to expand...

Did you ever look at the hole when you first got your Jeep? What makes you so sure that it wasn't more snug before? How do you think it got larger?

I think torque setting from the manufacturer are for a stock jeep driving on the road and very little or no off road travel.
Click to expand...

I guess I don't have a lot of wheel travel on my Jeeps. I mean, I still run factory bolts at factory torque settings and don't seem to have a problem. :idontknow:

My stuff was pretty tight when trying to take everything apart. Pucker factor was a solid 3 out of 5 I could tell there was left and right movement.
Click to expand...

What does a solid 3 out of 5 pucker factor = in terms of actual torque? :idontknow:

BTW, if I pay for shipping, can I have your old factory bolts? :yup:
 
JEEPnGEO

JEEPnGEO

New member
wayoflife said:
What does a solid 3 out of 5 pucker factor = in terms of actual torque? :idontknow:
BTW, if I pay for shipping, can I have your old factory bolts? :yup:
Click to expand...


If you want them PM me your address,

Torque specs for larger stronger bolts on an aftermarket trackbar,,, who knows what the "true" spec is.

Pucker 1 = Open end wrench or crescent wrench capable
Pucker 2 = Box end wrench have to brace myself to pull or push
Pucker 3 = Break out the big socket set box end wrenches with having to use both hands/arms
Pucker 4 = Break out the big socket set with having to use both hands/arms bracing myself and having a couple of go's at it.
Pucker 5 = Break out the big socket set with having to use both hands/arms bracing myself using a breaker bar/ torch pipe extension / penetrating lube. I may cut a good fart or a change of underwear. :mad:
Last straw = Cut it off drill it out weld something on it to pry it off, saws-all, send it to the shop and pay...
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Lol that scale is hysterical! Lol I think my bolts on my exhaust were pucker factor 5. It quickly went to last chance lol


Sent from my iPhone
 
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