2014 JKUR Drive Shaft questions

branman · Mar 17, 2014

I understand that with a 3.5 inch lift I will have some drive shaft issues,

One shop I was talking to said new front drive shaft is needed.

Another Shop said I have 2 options
1) new drive shaft
2) Y Pipe exhaust modification.

The question is: What exactly causes the issue with the drive shaft when lifting?

Any recommendations?

Variables:
Would like to build a Functional Wheeler
Phase 1
3.5" 4arm lift
35" Tires
Stock Fenders

Phase 2
Flat Fenders
New Gears
37" Tires

(Sorry if this has been asked but I couldn't find it)

olram30 · Mar 17, 2014

I'd save for a drive shaft, those spacers and other stuff don't do anything for the angle your drive shaft sits at. But too much droop causes your factory shaft to hit the exhaust pipe. Je reel is a good option.

wayoflife · Mar 17, 2014

branman said:
I understand that with a 3.5 inch lift I will have some drive shaft issues,

One shop I was talking to said new front drive shaft is needed.

Another Shop said I have 2 options
1) new drive shaft
2) Y Pipe exhaust modification.

The question is: What exactly causes the issue with the drive shaft when lifting?

On a 2012-up JK, the exhaust cross over sits at a point where your front drive shaft slip boot will make contact with it if you have a greater amount of droop. Longer shocks from a taller lift will allow for this droop. This is only your first problem and a y-pipe alone can address this. Your other problem is that your front shaft will be sitting at a much steeper angle and cause the cv boot to sit in a constant state of pinch. Over time, this will cause it to fail prematurely and that will lead to total joint failure. A new u-joint style double cardan drive shaft will address both issues and is the best way to address the problems.

Any recommendations?

I have run a lot of drive shafts and prefer JE Reel and Coast if only because they are made well and come with Neapco or Spicer u-joints standard.

Variables:
Would like to build a Functional Wheeler
Phase 1
3.5" 4arm lift
35" Tires
Stock Fenders

Phase 2
Flat Fenders
New Gears
37" Tires

3.5" of lift is a bit tall for just 35's but a good lift if you're going to run 37's for sure.

branman · Mar 17, 2014

Thanks for the quick reply - Shaft it is

wayoflife said:
3.5" of lift is a bit tall for just 35's but a good lift if you're going to run 37's for sure.

Just wanted to use a lift I can build upon.... Want to go straight to 37's but that dirty word "Budget"

Just trying to do a build that won't require any redo's or parts waste.

4.11's should be fine for 35" correct? But not so sano for the 37's?

wayoflife · Mar 18, 2014

branman said:
4.11's should be fine for 35" correct? But not so sano for the 37's?

Actually, if you have a Rubicon, you'll have 4.10 gears and yes, for 35's, it'll be just fine being that you have a 3.6L motor. Heck, I've even ran 37's with it for a long time. Works okay with a 3.6L but a regear will make you happier.

JK_Dave · Mar 18, 2014

wayoflife said:
Actually, if you have a Rubicon, you'll have 4.10 gears and yes, for 35's, it'll be just fine being that you have a 3.6L motor. Heck, I've even ran 37's with it for a long time. Works okay with a 3.6L but a regear will make you happier.

I thought the 4.10's were standard on Rubicon's with a manual transmission, but optional on the automatics? Was I wrong on that because my window sticker doesn't list out the 4.10 gears. Therefore, I assumed I had the 3.73's.

wayoflife · Mar 18, 2014

JK_Dave said:
I thought the 4.10's were standard on Rubicon's with a manual transmission, but optional on the automatics? Was I wrong on that because my window sticker doesn't list out the 4.10 gears. Therefore, I assumed I had the 3.73's.

Sorry, you are correct. On 2007-11 Rubicon's, 4.10 was standard on both manual and automatics. On 2012-up, 3.73 was standard for autos unless you have the tow package.

jesse3638 · Mar 18, 2014

I actually installed both, a 1310 JE Reel driveshaft and the aFe Y-pipe during my lift installation. I was under the impression that both needed to be done. It wasn't until after my install that I learned that I probably didn't need the Y-pipe. The y-pipe isn't bad it just potentially an un-needed expense and it presents its own problems. On the manual transmissions the pipe is in constant contact with the transmissions mount on the passenger side and causes a rattling/vibration at certain RPM's in certain gears. I've loosened and tweaked and pried and done everything I can to move it but it will still sit there. Also no matter how tight I tighten the clamp on the crossover pipes it leaks condensation which could be problematic during a smog check in a few years. Just some food for thought.

TheStick · Mar 18, 2014

wayoflife said:
Sorry, you are correct. On 2007-11 Rubicon's, 4.10 was standard on both manual and automatics. On 2012-up, 3.73 was standard for autos unless you have the tow package.

It's actually not even standard with the tow package any more on the auto's. The change was either late '12 or '13. It is now a seperate option to get the 4.10's, but I think it was only $200-$300, well worth it.

wayoflife · Mar 18, 2014

TheStick said:
It's actually not even standard with the tow package any more on the auto's. The change was either late '12 or '13. It is now a seperate option to get the 4.10's, but I think it was only $200-$300, well worth it.

Wow, learn something everyday. :crazyeyes:

noroad · Mar 18, 2014

I know this is hard to hear but ill say it, just save and stash parts as they come run it stock for what ever your budget needs. i can tell you from my own doing that a stage build is expensive! If you want 37s dont do 35s as that is money you could save for 37 and you will never get back what you paid for the 35s. If you want 37s save for some 1350s driveshafts, save for the lift and put it on all at once. it took me a year to get my lift tires and everthing to run but i saved countless dollars by looking for sales and waiting just a little longer. It hurts a ton to see a 3000 lift on you basement floor becasue you dont have tires but its worth it in the end im telling you!

branman · Mar 18, 2014

noroad said:
I know this is hard to hear but ill say it, just save and stash parts as they come run it stock for what ever your budget needs. i can tell you from my own doing that a stage build is expensive! If you want 37s dont do 35s as that is money you could save for 37 and you will never get back what you paid for the 35s. If you want 37s save for some 1350s driveshafts, save for the lift and put it on all at once. it took me a year to get my lift tires and everthing to run but i saved countless dollars by looking for sales and waiting just a little longer. It hurts a ton to see a 3000 lift on you basement floor becasue you dont have tires but its worth it in the end im telling you!

Sound advice and yes I agree do it once do it right. I probably have the money to do it right now, I have the tools and most of the know how. However.com I don't have the space (once lifted I can't get out of my garage lol!) so a portion or my budget is going to labor to have a shop do it.

This raises a new question, How would you spend 9k on a new 2014 JKUR?

noroad · Mar 18, 2014

branman said:
Sound advice and yes I agree do it once do it right. I probably have the money to do it right now, I have the tools and most of the know how. However.com I don't have the space (once lifted I can't get out of my garage lol!) so a portion or my budget is going to labor to have a shop do it.

This raises a new question, How would you spend 9k on a new 2014 JKUR?

wow 9K i would start with a

and then i would say a lift of your choise do some research on which one you want! Also i would have rims, tires, gussests, armor. on my top list, tire carrier for that massive 37s. that will prob round off at about 9K ish!

jesse3638 · Mar 18, 2014

branman said:
Sound advice and yes I agree do it once do it right. I probably have the money to do it right now, I have the tools and most of the know how. However.com I don't have the space (once lifted I can't get out of my garage lol!) so a portion or my budget is going to labor to have a shop do it.

This raises a new question, How would you spend 9k on a new 2014 JKUR?

Id say do it yourself. You'll save a ton of money. The trick to getting it out of the garage is save the stock tires that will allow it to ride lower. If that still doesnt work air them suckers down to near flat and that should definitely do the trick. I also wanted to say, don't settle for anything less that what you want to do to your jeep. I mean if DTD and prorock 60's are something you want most of us don't have that kind of coin to drop. So build it correctly in preparation of where you want it to go. In my lift options I was looking at a 2" BB and 33's originally, then read some stuff and wanted adj CA's, then read you can fit 35's and aren't as stressfull as 37's so I wanted a 3" 8 adj arm lift, then knowing my personality and that I'd prob want it later decided on a 3" long arm lift and couldn't be happier. Now I'm building towads 37's but again making all the necessary improvements to run them successfully. It is expensive yes but totally worth it and will also save you money in having to possibly replace parts you already bought. Also I think if you have the know how building it yourself is part of the "Jeep thang". Its satisfying and really gives you an intimate look at how your jeep works.

noroad · Mar 18, 2014

I have a 4.5 i inch long arm with 37s and im still under 7 feet tall! And park in mine all the time i think you will be fine.

branman · Mar 18, 2014

jesse0920 said:
The trick to getting it out of the garage is save the stock tires that will allow it to ride lower. If that still doesnt work air them suckers down to near flat and that should definitely do the trick.

noroad said:
I have a 4.5 i inch long arm with 37s and im still under 7 feet tall! And park in mine all the time i think you will be fine.

That was the plan but it is a small apartment garage and not what you are picturing, I would have to remove the garage door opener just to get it in there stock.

noroad said:
wow 9K i would start with a and then i would say a lift of your choise do some research on which one you want! Also i would have rims, tires, gussests, armor. on my top list, tire carrier for that massive 37s. that will prob round off at about 9K ish!

9k isn't as much as you think LOL!

Where I am headed I think:

3" Teraflex 4 arm with Shocks
Front Drive Shaft
Steering Stabilizer
5 Method NV wheels 17"
5 Nitto 35x12.5x17 Trail grapplers
Tera Flex Hinged Tire carrier and adjustable tire mount
Spacers Lugs and Alignment

This already is 6k without tax or shipping +/-

I will cut and cap the stock front bumper

Probably save the rest of budget on the stuff we forget about. Air system, CB, Rock Sliders, Recovery Kit, Spider Top, Half/Tube Doors, Fuel to get too the trail

Thanks for all your input, Im sure more question will arise. I'm off to Moab in a week and not sure I will get anything done before.

Input - Thoughts and Suggestions are always welcome.

olram30 · Mar 18, 2014

branman said:
Where I am headed I think:

3" Teraflex 4 arm with Shocks

Steering Stabilizer

Tera Flex Hinged Tire carrier and adjustable tire mount

Input - Thoughts and Suggestions are always welcome.

Your jeep and money, but I'd look into a different lift, teraflex is stiff and sags, shocks are not the greatest,steering stabilizer isn't needed and the teraflex tire carrier is junk and known to break.

noroad · Mar 18, 2014

branman said:
That was the plan but it is a small apartment garage and not what you are picturing, I would have to remove the garage door opener just to get it in there stock.

9k isn't as much as you think LOL!

Where I am headed I think:

3" Teraflex 4 arm with Shocks
Front Drive Shaft
Steering Stabilizer
5 Method NV wheels 17"
5 Nitto 35x12.5x17 Trail grapplers
Tera Flex Hinged Tire carrier and adjustable tire mount
Spacers Lugs and Alignment

This already is 6k without tax or shipping +/-

I will cut and cap the stock front bumper

Probably save the rest of budget on the stuff we forget about. Air system, CB, Rock Sliders, Recovery Kit, Spider Top, Half/Tube Doors, Fuel to get too the trail

Thanks for all your input, Im sure more question will arise. I'm off to Moab in a week and not sure I will get anything done before.

Input - Thoughts and Suggestions are always welcome.

I would measure the doors lowest point. And a couple things are not really needed Steering Stabilizer and wheel spaces are not needed. And again i would just do 37s if thats what u wanted. And u deff need gussets before u move up in tire size and un less u dont plan on wheeling u need armor oil/tranny. I did my whole jeep for 5k so an extra 4k is a ton. You can get everything u want with just shopping around and not paying for shipping!

branman · Mar 18, 2014

olram30 said:
Your jeep and money, but I'd look into a different lift, teraflex is stiff and sags, shocks are not the greatest,steering stabilizer

Rock Krawler 3.5 Flex System / Bilstein 5100's - same price / Thoughts?

olram30 said:
teraflex tire carrier is junk and known to break.

I have seen a picture of the tire mount that cracked but look at these carriers in the shops holding 40's with no issues on rigs that are wheel'd.

noroad said:
I would measure the doors lowest point. And a couple things are not really needed Steering Stabilizer and wheel spaces are not needed. And again i would just do 37s if thats what u wanted. And u deff need gussets before u move up in tire size and un less u dont plan on wheeling u need armor oil/tranny. I did my whole jeep for 5k so an extra 4k is a ton. You can get everything u want with just shopping around and not paying for shipping!

The door is 74" and my Jeep is 72" - Probably have a shop do it.

I hear you on the shopping around, and the 37's I feel I can build a functional strong jeep on 35's and would be cutting corners on the 37's (front drive shaft, gearing, gusseting....) - I will be able to Wheel my 35's for a year(or until the wear out) to see the true direction I want to go - (that was my thinking)

Wheel Spacers: Lets talk back space - 3" Lift / 4.75" Backspace / 35x12.5x17 Tire. It was shown to me rubbing in the rear when full flexed(compressed) in the rear.

Thanks for taking the time for my noob questions

noroad · Mar 18, 2014

branman said:
Rock Krawler 3.5 Flex System / Bilstein 5100's - same price / Thoughts?

I have seen a picture of the tire mount that cracked but look at these carriers in the shops holding 40's with no issues on rigs that are wheel'd.

The door is 74" and my Jeep is 72" - Probably have a shop do it.

I hear you on the shopping around, and the 37's I feel I can build a functional strong jeep on 35's and would be cutting corners on the 37's (front drive shaft, gearing, gusseting....) - I will be able to Wheel my 35's for a year(or until the wear out) to see the true direction I want to go - (that was my thinking)

Wheel Spacers: Lets talk back space - 3" Lift / 4.75" Backspace / 35x12.5x17 Tire. It was shown to me rubbing in the rear when full flexed(compressed) in the rear.

Thanks for taking the time for my noob questions

You have 4.10 gears which are fine for 37s for a good amount of time i wheel mine and have 3.21z but you can do 35s im just saying and u can not cut conners even with 35s gussets are a must unless u plan on a new axle! And with a 3.5 inch lift you already need the driveshafts. But i can only tell you what i have done and seen! Its your jeep and your 9k so have a ball but dont go cheap on the needed things such as armor and things that keep you driving in the middle of know where as you dont want to be that guy on the trail!

2014 JKUR Drive Shaft questions

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