Rear Carrier Removal

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

Hi Guys,

So I've got a sensor in my rear differential that has caused a light on my dashboard to come on. I've bought a new sensor and would like to change it out. Now here is the question.

Can I take out the rear carrier and make sure that all the shims are in the same spot that I took them out of without any issues? So basically can I take out the rear with any issues or should I have a professional do the work?

HDGasser · Apr 1, 2014

If you've had gears done you should just pop the cover to see if it's in there right.

And ya pretty much, keep an eye on those shims, don't rip the wires out and make sure you don't drop the carrier and you'll be fine.

An extra set of hands is nice too.

Good luck Nd let us know what you find.

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

HDGasser said:
If you've had gears done you should just pop the cover to see if it's in there right.

And ya pretty much, keep an eye on those shims, don't rip the wires out and make sure you don't drop the carrier and you'll be fine.

An extra set of hands is nice too.

Good luck Nd let us know what you find.

So I can take out the rear carrier and make sure the shims are completely in the same location. I watch out for my locker wires. Is there anything else that I would need to consider? I know I have to remove my axle shafts.

HDGasser · Apr 1, 2014

JK's JK said:
So I can take out the rear carrier and make sure the shims are completely in the same location. I watch out for my locker wires. Is there anything else that I would need to consider? I know I have to remove my axle shafts.

Yeah pretty much, couple cans of brake cleaner, a scraper to clean off the old gasket gunk.

Just be careful when your ready to pull the carrier, may take a pry or wack from a rubber mallet just make sure it don't flop out and your hands arent underneath it!

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

HDGasser said:
Yeah pretty much, couple cans of brake cleaner, a scraper to clean off the old gasket gunk.

Just be careful when your ready to pull the carrier, may take a pry or wack from a rubber mallet just make sure it don't flop out and your hands arent underneath it!

I do appreciate your input HDGasser. I'm now a bit more hopeful that I'll be able to complete the gear change out myself. :thumb:

Is there anyone else that has gear experience? I'd like to hear a few others with input just in case something is over looked.

HDGasser · Apr 1, 2014

JK's JK said:
I do appreciate your input HDGasser. I'm now a bit more hopeful that I'll be able to complete the gear change out myself. :thumb:

Is there anyone else that has gear experience? I'd like to hear a few others with input just in case something is over looked.

I'm sure Eddie or someone else with some experience will chime in soon, but changing out the sensor is not a bad gig. Changing out a gear set.... Well that's a whole other can of worms!

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

HDGasser said:
I'm sure Eddie or someone else with some experience will chime in soon, but changing out the sensor is not a bad gig. Changing out a gear set.... Well that's a whole other can of worms!

I do have two additional questions for you.

1 - Sense I'm replacing the sensor. How does the sensor fit back into the slot? Does it just slide into place into the disk?

2 - Do you know the torque settings for the four bolts that hold the carrier in place?

Heholua · Apr 1, 2014

JK's JK said:
Hi Guys,

So I've got a sensor in my rear differential that has caused a light on my dashboard to come on. I've bought a new sensor and would like to change it out. Now here is the question.

Can I take out the rear carrier and make sure that all the shims are in the same spot that I took them out of without any issues? So basically can I take out the rear with any issues or should I have a professional do the work?

Jesse.....when I installed my lockers and gears with the help of a friend, we used a spreader to preload the shims. You will probably be able to get it out, getting back in might be a little tougher.

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

Heholua said:
Jesse.....when I installed my lockers and gears with the help of a friend, we used a spreader to preload the shims. You will probably be able to get it out, getting back in might be a little tougher.

I'm assuming a rubber mallet as long as I'm keeping clear of other mechanical parts and not forcing it into the carrier

I need to get this done before the run up to Bald on the 19th.

Heholua · Apr 1, 2014

JK's JK said:
I'm assuming a rubber mallet as long as I'm keeping clear of other mechanical parts and not forcing it into the carrier

I need to get this done before the run up to Bald on the 19th.

I hope the rubber mallet will do the trick for you.

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

Heholua said:
I hope the rubber mallet will do the trick for you.

Well if the carrier is tough getting back into the carrier then a little wack?? I appreciate the input. :thumb:

Only two things I'm now concerned with is how the sensor gets placed into the disk of the locker and torque specs on the four bolts that holds the carrier.

HDGasser · Apr 1, 2014

JK's JK said:
Well if the carrier is tough getting back into the carrier then a little wack?? I appreciate the input. :thumb:

Only two things I'm now concerned with is how the sensor gets placed into the disk of the locker and torque specs on the four bolts that holds the carrier.

This thread shows a couple pictures on how it's supposed to go.

http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...on-now-rear-locker-indicator-blinks-125889/#b

Also the project JK site has torque specs for everything on your jeep I believe.

Bigbores · Apr 1, 2014

Hello this Is my first post. But I have done many and my own diff set ups.
It is hard to find room on a stock jk locker to hit with a dead blow rubber mallet. Without damaging e locker.
Not saying it's not possible but on your back and not on a lift will be a chore.
There is a good amount of preload on the carrier bearings. I would recommend locating a spreader.

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

JK's JK · Apr 1, 2014

Bigbores said:
Hello this Is my first post. But I have done many and my own diff set ups.
It is hard to find room on a stock jk locker to hit with a dead blow rubber mallet. Without damaging e locker.
Not saying it's not possible but on your back and not on a lift will be a chore.
There is a good amount of preload on the carrier bearings. I would recommend locating a spreader.

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

That's what I'm finding out this morning that I'll need to use a spreader for the rear carrier. Sounds like I have a way to borrow one. Using the mallet would not be the way to go since there is a possiblity to bend the shims.

Tcdawg · Apr 1, 2014

Bearing cap bolt torque is 80ft lbs, for the rubi D44

Make sure that you mark the bearing caps before you remove them and install them back in the same exact orientation.

Bigbores · Apr 1, 2014

Carefully spread diff.

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

JK's JK · Apr 2, 2014

So I talked with the guy that swapped my gears out. He said the switch doesnt take much to be taken out. What he said is to remove the carrier a good 1/2" and that's enough to take out the rear switch. The switch is not extended during normal operation. When the locker is engaged it's extended to engage the disk. Does this sound about right?

Tcdawg · Apr 2, 2014

JK's JK said:
So I talked with the guy that swapped my gears out. He said the switch doesnt take much to be taken out. What he said is to remove the carrier a good 1/2" and that's enough to take out the rear switch. The switch is not extended during normal operation. When the locker is engaged it's extended to engage the disk. Does this sound about right?

Moving the carrier out 1/2" would allow you to replace the switch yes, IF you can get it to only come out 1/2". It is in there tight so when you begin to pry it out my experience is at some point it pops out. If you can move it out 1/2" without it popping all the way out that would be great. Have an extra set of hands available incase it does pop all the way out.

JK's JK · Apr 2, 2014

Tcdawg said:
Moving the carrier out 1/2" would allow you to replace the switch yes, IF you can get it to only come out 1/2". It is in there tight so when you begin to pry it out my experience is at some point it pops out. If you can move it out 1/2" without it popping all the way out that would be great. Have an extra set of hands available incase it does pop all the way out.

The dealership wanted me to buy a bracket that goes into the diff and replace the current one. From what I see, the switch screws into the housing. What does the bracket hold or do and will I be able to take it out with the bracket in place?

Tcdawg · Apr 2, 2014

JK's JK said:
The dealership wanted me to buy a bracket that goes into the diff and replace the current one. From what I see, the switch screws into the housing. What does the bracket hold or do and will I be able to take it out with the bracket in place?

I am not familiar with any bracket that goes along with the sensor. While I have had my carrier out a number of time and my axle broken down, I have never removed the sensor from the pumpkin...only unplugged the sensor from the wire on the outside which leaves the sensor still in the pumpkin.

Rear Carrier Removal

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