Dynatrac 60 rear???

Jerms

New member
For those of you running Dynatrac 60s in the rear...

Im looking to upgrade, and would love some advice. Im currently running atx slabs and want to keep them, 5.13s and am happy with them, and I like my e-locker. Im also running the factory drive shaft.

What are your thoughts on the locker (or what are you running?), and contacting Dynatrac the best solution for purchasing? Also, what else is going to be required for me to tackle this? Im aware of using my existing brakes etc. Is the possible for $4k?

My goal is to eventually upgrade the front and run 40's. Im going to Moab in 2016, so id like to get this all done before then.

I value the opinions of everyone here and i guess im trying to gather all the info now to do this right the first time.
 
For those of you running Dynatrac 60s in the rear...

Im looking to upgrade, and would love some advice. Im currently running atx slabs and want to keep them, 5.13s and am happy with them, and I like my e-locker. Im also running the factory drive shaft.

What are your thoughts on the locker (or what are you running?), and contacting Dynatrac the best solution for purchasing? Also, what else is going to be required for me to tackle this? Im aware of using my existing brakes etc. Is the possible for $4k?

My goal is to eventually upgrade the front and run 40's. Im going to Moab in 2016, so id like to get this all done before then.

I value the opinions of everyone here and i guess im trying to gather all the info now to do this right the first time.

I have been doing the research myself and found that if you go with a PR60 you can have it all built with what you want for about $7300. That is built with the locker of choice, gears, drive shaft yoke and full float reat axles. If you are planning on running 40's you will need to upgrade to a 1350 front and read driveshaft. JE Reel drive shafts for 1350 is about $500 a piece.

I would recommend building a complete bolt on axle and then sell your current axle. This will offset the cost. I found Northridge 4x4 has the best option for laying out the axle.

R/
Will
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Another solid option is to call Dynatrac directly. They are very informative and helped me with a quote on a PR44. They can help you build the exact axle you want.


Sent from my iPhone
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Sounds like what you want to be looking at is a Dynatrac Trail 60 as it'll be more affordable, can be had in a factory width and with a factory 5x5 bolt pattern. Unfortunately, you will still need to get a new locker and gears as you will not be able to reuse what you have in it. You will also need to get a new drive shaft as the factory one will be too long can cannot be cut down. I personally would recommend an ARB with one as well as a JE Reel 1350 shaft.
 

DirtyJeeP

New member
Can you get the PR60 with the 5X5 bolt pattern? I just ordered some slabs and don't want to have to order them again if I don't need to when the time comes to upgrade to the PR60.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Can you get the PR60 with the 5X5 bolt pattern? I just ordered some slabs and don't want to have to order them again if I don't need to when the time comes to upgrade to the PR60.

No, only the Trail 60. Also, a ProRock 60 is a full width axle and so your rear end will have a wider stance unless you run wheel adapters. This is what we will be doing on Rubicat - changing out our wheels for 5x5.5 and running wheel adapters up front.
 

Jerms

New member
When going with the trail series, and running the arb or Detroit, what happens when using the stock front locker push button inside the cab? I'm assuming it still functions normal with the exception of a rear locker flashing light on the dash?
 

rogerdspe

New member
I have had both the ARB and the E locker and I prefer the ARB mainly due to its instant on and off. But I was also running the elocker up from so just by their design they dont disengage quite as quickly. It's probably not as big of a deal in the rear.
 

HDGasser

New member
You can get a SEMI float PR60 in Jk width, with 5x5 bolt pattern.

Which I THINK may be a trail 60 with a PR housing. Apparently there's a difference in clearance height between the 2.

Dynatrac has tons of options, give them a call and tell them what you want. I spent lots of time on the phone with them before I bought my PR.

They will build you anything you want.
 

Jerms

New member
Also what front dynatrac axle are you running or what would you recommend for 40s? Would the hybrid 44 60 hold up?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
When going with the trail series, and running the arb or Detroit, what happens when using the stock front locker push button inside the cab? I'm assuming it still functions normal with the exception of a rear locker flashing light on the dash?

In order to get the factory front locker to work, you will have to have it think that the rear locker is on. I kinda suck at electrical stuff so I had Off Road Evolution wire it up for me so that I could still use the factory switch back when I was running the set up that you are wanting to do. If you have a 2012 or newer JK, I would NOT install a Detroit as it will not work well due to the ABS computer setup.

You can get a SEMI float PR60 in Jk width, with 5x5 bolt pattern.

Which I THINK may be a trail 60 with a PR housing. Apparently there's a difference in clearance height between the 2.

Dynatrac has tons of options, give them a call and tell them what you want. I spent lots of time on the phone with them before I bought my PR.

They will build you anything you want.

He wouldn't be able to do that within the budget he's trying to work within and really, a Trail 60 with a PR housing is really just a custom PR. The whole point of a Trail 60 is that it's basic and affordable.

Also what front dynatrac axle are you running or what would you recommend for 40s? Would the hybrid 44 60 hold up?

For 40's, Dynatrac would ONLY recommend a PR60 and so would I. The 44/60 is a great setup if extra clearance is needed but for the cost is about the same. We went that route with VENGEANCE because we needed the up travel clearance for our build.
 

Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
On my 2010 Rubi my front locker works well with the factory switch with my rear light just blinking as I had to install an ARB in the back when my rear Rubi locker failed.
 
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