Future mods for the jk

Bdent

New member
I know if I go over a 4" lift I should look into getting drive shafts. I love the hight and look of a 4" lift, if I did a 3" BDS lift with a 1" body would I still need to upgrade the drive shafts? I was told I by a local off road shop I wouldn't have to. I plan on doing that setup with 37 open country's and ATX Slabs. If anyone has a similar setup or has any insight on this could you help!
 

bbailey

Banned
I know if I go over a 4" lift I should look into getting drive shafts. I love the hight and look of a 4" lift, if I did a 3" BDS lift with a 1" body would I still need to upgrade the drive shafts? I was told I by a local off road shop I wouldn't have to. I plan on doing that setup with 37 open country's and ATX Slabs. If anyone has a similar setup or has any insight on this could you help!

2.5 inch lift with flat fenders will fit 37's on a JK. Any reason you want to go with a 4 inch lift?

Driveshafts are only "required" if you plan on flexing out your JK. Keep her on the street, you'll likely be fine with stock driveshafts (at least for a little while).
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
2.5 inch lift with flat fenders will fit 37's on a JK. Any reason you want to go with a 4 inch lift?

Driveshafts are only "required" if you plan on flexing out your JK. Keep her on the street, you'll likely be fine with stock driveshafts (at least for a little while).

You'll rub like crazy with that setup.
 

Bdent

New member
2.5 inch lift with flat fenders will fit 37's on a JK. Any reason you want to go with a 4 inch lift?

Driveshafts are only "required" if you plan on flexing out your JK. Keep her on the street, you'll likely be fine with stock driveshafts (at least for a little while).


I like the look of a 4 inch lift with 37s and plan on doing a few trails around the area every once and awhile.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
if you lift it 4" and only use it on the street you will be fine for a bit. eventually your driveshafts will fail just from normal driving. now if at 4" you go off roading you will want new driveshafts asap.

as bbaily mentioned you can do 2.5" of lift with flat fenders and stuff in 37's but you will want proper bump stops to help limit your uptravel.
 

Bdent

New member
if you lift it 4" and only use it on the street you will be fine for a bit. eventually your driveshafts will fail just from normal driving. now if at 4" you go off roading you will want new driveshafts asap.

as bbaily mentioned you can do 2.5" of lift with flat fenders and stuff in 37's but you will want proper bump stops to help limit your uptravel.

So I'll need drive shafts if it's 4" regardless, even if it's just a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body?
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So I'll need drive shafts if it's 4" regardless, even if it's just a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body?

yes. at 3"+ of suspension lift you will need driveshafts. the body lift is just to help with clearance and raise your COG.
 

bbailey

Banned
You'll rub like crazy with that setup.

No, actually you won't. In fact, you can fit 37's under a JK with flat fenders with nothing more than a budget boost if you wanted to (though that does require a meaningful amount of trimming of the pinch seam to avoid rubbing).

A 2.5 inch spring lift works great with 37's so long as you use adjustable rear control arms to move the rear axle back about an inch to re-center it in the wheelwell. With flat fenders and proper bumpstops, you won't have a single issue.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
No, actually you won't. In fact, you can fit 37's under a JK with flat fenders with nothing more than a budget boost if you wanted to (though that does require a meaningful amount of trimming of the pinch seam to avoid rubbing).

You mean a whole hell of a lot of trimming of the whole fender well!

A 2.5 inch spring lift works great with 37's

If you're OK with little to no up travel. I'm all about low cog but to do this and not lose travel is some serious modifications to the tub....not something that someone who chose a budget boost is typically doing

so long as you use adjustable rear control arms to move the rear axle back about an inch to re-center it in the wheelwell

With moving the axle back, be prepared for coils bowing and not lining up properly. Unless you mean uppers to adjust pinion angle only


With proper bumpstops,

This is truly the key!
 
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