What if I put on OX locker in the rear of my Rubicon?

a_brick_short

a_brick_short

New member
My rear locker is...broken. I'm not sure what the issue is. The lock ring looks like it engages how it's supposed to, the plunger pin looks right, but it just doesn't lock. No metal in the fluid either. There are no obvious signs of damage anywhere. Being that the JK is out of warranty and the stock locker is ridiculously expensive (and not rebuildable, so I hear), I am in need of a selectable aftermarket rear locker. For various reasons that best suit my needs, I have decided (mostly) on the 35 spline OX locker and 35 spline shafts.

Now, here are my questions:

1. Does the front locker need "confirmation" the rear locker button has been pressed in order to actuate? Because I plan to use the cable system in the OX, obviously my front end won't "know" if the rear is locked.

2. If I disconnect the rear electric locker, what do I do with the wire? Will simply disconnecting it the plug at the axle be enough, or will that cause issues?

Has anyone done this? Or maybe has input on the repair of my stock locker?
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

-
what year is your JKR and how many miles?

Have you contacted the dealer to see if it is still under the power train warranty?

For me, I would go with an ARB simple because the OX locker is $800 then by the time you add in the cable, actuating lever and mount you are at $1100. If you can spend the extra and get the ARB. Again that is JMHO.

R/
Will
 
noroad

noroad

New member
Im putting in a yukon zip locker next week as they have a $2000 warranty as well as the upgraded to lifetime coverage which i took!
 
a_brick_short

a_brick_short

New member
Canvas JK said:
what year is your JKR and how many miles?

Have you contacted the dealer to see if it is still under the power train warranty?

For me, I would go with an ARB simple because the OX locker is $800 then by the time you add in the cable, actuating lever and mount you are at $1100. If you can spend the extra and get the ARB. Again that is JMHO.

R/
Will
Click to expand...

Thanks, Will.

It's a 2008 with 39,000 miles. Unfortunately, it NOT covered under warranty. That, and it's on 35s, and I REALLY don't feel like going through the hassle at a stealership when they inevitably tell me my "oversized tires voided the warranty" even if it was actually still covered.

I'm going with the OX for a few reasons:
1. I prefer the manual engagement system the OX offers
2. I like the ability to use the "drive away" screw plug thing in the event the engagement mechanism fails. No other locker has this.
3. The default position for the locker is "locked," rather than "open." So, really, it's a spool you disengage once you hit the street.
4. I specifically don't like the ARB because it needs constant re-pressurization to stay locked AND I don't want a periodically-running compressor. Also, the air lines and fittings are known weak points on the ARB setup, and almost everyone I know with an ARB finds those and the aforementioned compressor issues annoying.

Anyway, that's why I picked the OX. It's simple.
 
Last edited:
a_brick_short

a_brick_short

New member
noroad said:
Im putting in a yukon zip locker next week as they have a $2000 warranty as well as the upgraded to lifetime coverage which i took!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have a feeling your install will mate right up with the existing electronics, so I don't think you're going to have the same issues I'm wondering about. Congrats on the new stuff though!
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

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sounds like a plan, however I would still check with the dealership. I know my local service manager puts 35's on the new jeeps they lift. What is the worst they can say, Sorry not covered under warranty? They could also say you know that is covered under warranty and we will fix it for you.

R/
Will
 
a_brick_short

a_brick_short

New member
Canvas JK said:
sounds like a plan, however I would still check with the dealership. I know my local service manager puts 35's on the new jeeps they lift. What is the worst they can say, Sorry not covered under warranty? They could also say you know that is covered under warranty and we will fix it for you.

R/
Will
Click to expand...

You're not wrong. I just HATE dealerships, and the idea of going into one to hear something I probably already know irrationally burns me.

I'd probably still be in the market for 35 spline upgrades anyway... :thumb:
 
nmwranglerx

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
a_brick_short said:
My rear locker is...broken. I'm not sure what the issue is. The lock ring looks like it engages how it's supposed to, the plunger pin looks right, but it just doesn't lock. No metal in the fluid either. There are no obvious signs of damage anywhere. Being that the JK is out of warranty and the stock locker is ridiculously expensive (and not rebuildable, so I hear), I am in need of a selectable aftermarket rear locker. For various reasons that best suit my needs, I have decided (mostly) on the 35 spline OX locker and 35 spline shafts.

Now, here are my questions:

1. Does the front locker need "confirmation" the rear locker button has been pressed in order to actuate? Because I plan to use the cable system in the OX, obviously my front end won't "know" if the rear is locked.

2. If I disconnect the rear electric locker, what do I do with the wire? Will simply disconnecting it the plug at the axle be enough, or will that cause issues?

Has anyone done this? Or maybe has input on the repair of my stock locker?
Click to expand...

I assume you have pulled the diff cover to inspect the condition of the locker? Can you visually inspect/confirm that the magnetic actuator is working? When the locker receives current, it pushes a plate over, maybe an 1/8th of an inch to engage the clutch. You can hear it pop over (see my video).

 
jkjurny

jkjurny

Member
Just a thought, I hear that the new Eaton Elocker4 is a drop in replacement. The new model is stronger and I think you just leverage the electronics already there.

But all your reasons for Ox look good though.
 
nmwranglerx

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
a_brick_short said:
Confirmed. All of that looks the way it's supposed to.
Click to expand...

Ok, if magnetic actuator plate is working, must be something inside casing. Check your mailbox for a PM. I'm sending you a link that might be useful for diagnostics. Just hate to see you spend a lot of money on new locker if it can be fixed.
 
Bill S

Bill S

New member
For your information, I broke my front Ox locker in Moab last week. Ox replaced all the parts and shipped over night at no charge. Perfect costomer service!
 
matt

matt

Caught the Bug
a_brick_short said:
Thanks, Will.

It's a 2008 with 39,000 miles. Unfortunately, it NOT covered under warranty. That, and it's on 35s, and I REALLY don't feel like going through the hassle at a stealership when they inevitably tell me my "oversized tires voided the warranty" even if it was actually still covered.

I'm going with the OX for a few reasons:
1. I prefer the manual engagement system the OX offers
2. I like the ability to use the "drive away" screw plug thing in the event the engagement mechanism fails. No other locker has this.
3. The default position for the locker is "locked," rather than "open." So, really, it's a spool you disengage once you hit the street.
4. I specifically don't like the ARB because it needs constant re-pressurization to stay locked AND I don't want a periodically-running compressor. Also, the air lines and fittings are known weak points on the ARB setup, and almost everyone I know with an ARB finds those and the aforementioned compressor issues annoying.

Anyway, that's why I picked the OX. It's simple.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at their new air setup? They made some nice changes. I'm running the 35 spline in the 44 on my sport using the new air system.

If the electronics for the front are a problem you can bypass all of the factory wiring and wire the front directly to a switch and indicator light.

Just a thought.

Oh and if you decide to stick with the cable, make sure you get the adjustment and routing optimal. Flex it out and check before you get on the trail.

Keep the cable away from the exhaust, I saw one get damaged on the trail and had to loan my lockout tool.

Hope that helps, enjoy the OX!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
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Bill S

Bill S

New member
I'm using the electric actuator on mine. Saved having to find a spot for the cable lever.
 

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AZDIESELPIG

AZDIESELPIG

Member
noroad said:
Im putting in a yukon zip locker next week as they have a $2000 warranty as well as the upgraded to lifetime coverage which i took!
Click to expand...

I was told that the Zip locker is the OLD ARB design. ARB let the paten run out because it as a bad (problematic) design....then Yukon picked up the design. The was from the ARB rep when asked why the Zip locker was very similar to ARB.
 
Skirmish

Skirmish

New member
silversmoke said:
I was told that the Zip locker is the OLD ARB design. ARB let the paten run out because it as a bad (problematic) design....then Yukon picked up the design. The was from the ARB rep when asked why the Zip locker was very similar to ARB.
Click to expand...

The original Zip was, the current version is not.

Sent from my HTC One using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
noroad

noroad

New member
Skirmish said:
The original Zip was, the current version is not.

Sent from my HTC One using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

This is true they have a new one out that is just as strong the one in the video that blows up was yukons but was never sold!
 
suicideking

suicideking

New member
I can confirm about the OEM wiring: The front can work just fine without the rear. I have a Sport with a Rubi d44 front. It's a simple 12v switch.

I also hear you about not wanting an air locker. They are great when they're working, but do seem to be problematic. I have the Rubi e locker in front. It has never failed, never had an issue. Only problem is it takes a little distance to lock and unlock. This is more of an issue in the front since you may want to unlock, steer a bit, and lock again. Shouldn't be as much of an issue in the rear. Not sure how a cable would come into play.

I have an ARB in the rear Sport D44. It has never failed on the trail. However, I have had numerous issues with air leaks and compressor problems. I currently have the ARB twin. It has been working since I got it installed even though I have had repeated air leaks. Last Sunday I did the hardest trails I've ever done. It was hot all day, close to 100 degrees. The compressor lasted all day on the trail.

When it was time to air up, I got about half of a tire done and the air compressor died. I had to hit someone up to use their compressor. I had figured it just overheated. I haven't been able to get it to turn on since and will now have to take it in to get fixed. Again...

I've had the locker and compressor for over a year, before the Eaton 4 pin design came out. If that had been out when my I got my locker, probably would've gotten it instead of the ARB.

I do plan to get a separate small compressor to mount under the hood just for use with the locker. That way I don't put so much wear and tear on the ARB twin and can use it only for airing up. It's under my passenger seat which is really annoying when wheeling.
 
a_brick_short

a_brick_short

New member
Matt and suicideking, thanks for the information. These are the kinds of answers I was looking for.

I'm kind of surprised, with all of the issues the Rubicon e-lockers seem to have, nobody around here has done what I'm talking about.
 
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