2011 JKUS phases input

Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
I bought a 2011 JKUS auto a few days ago. I have been planning out the phases for a couple months now and I am having difficulty finishing it up. I use it as a regular driver (use my wife's car and carpool but I do drive it weekly). Per the build sheet that I called Jeep prior to purchase it has 3.73s. My offroading consists of going to Colorado once or twice a year and do all the trails around Ouray. Future plan is do Moab, Rubicon, etc. All the "fun" places that y'all go to :rock:. I was able to buy "35 inch" Duratracs with the JK that are being delivered to me shortly. And Using the Moabs that came with it. This is my plan tentatively. I already have a Quadratec 9000lb synthetic winch from my WK2. Plan to go no larger than 37s. I have the funds for phase 1 right now which would remain in this phase for a year to two at max until I have phase 2 funds available but of course anything can happen (regarding being able to buy the items). Any opinions and advice would be appreciated. If I need to move or edit my build I would appreciate the input on that also.

Phase 1
-1.5" Spidertrax spacers
-TF 2.5" BB
-C Gussetts
-Cut fenders
-Under seat lock box
-AEV Procal
-Rugged Ridge Mats
-Truck Lites
-Dead pedal
-Axle parts
-Highrock Tire carrier
Poison Spyder bumper
Poison Spyder fairlead mount
Poison Spyder fairlead


(mid phases) Evo Sliders

Phase 2
Evo Enforcer 4" 37s w/ Bilsteins and drag link flip
JE REEL shafts
Clayton Rear CAs
Currie Front reloc bracket
Currie Front TB
Currie Rear reloc bracket
Currie Rear TB
Currie front UCA
JKS Quick Disco
New wheels TBD

5.13 gears at some point

Phase 3
Front D44 Rubi take-off/Dynatrac 44s front and rear
Lockers?

And other misc toys throughout the process.
 
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MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
Hit submit before finishing... imo regearing ahould be a priority when changing tire size on the 3.8 motor.

2014 JKUR
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
i have a 2011 JK sport as well with 35's. i had 3.73 gears and the way it drove was tolerable. my opinion would be to move the regear to 5.13's up the list a little to make it liveable and easier for you to drive thru the mountains. i know 5.13's is pushing it in the D30 up front but it will be worth the investment for driveability.

other than that your list looks good to me!
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
MR.Ty said:
Are you considering gears for phase one?


2014 JKUR
Click to expand...

Well I have it in Phase 3 but I thought about phase 1. But if I ever want to upgrade do a D44 up front or something else then that will be regearing again. But...if I have the funds for that what is another few hundred for regearing. Same difference I guess.

I have been reading up on 5.13s on a D30 with the 3.8L and it is a mixed bag on whether or not the 5.13s are too small for the D30 and subject to breaking-easier. I would do 4.88 but 37 inch tires are not advised for that size. :thinking:
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
cozdude said:
i have a 2011 JK sport as well with 35's. i had 3.73 gears and the way it drove was tolerable. my opinion would be to move the regear to 5.13's up the list a little to make it liveable and easier for you to drive thru the mountains. i know 5.13's is pushing it in the D30 up front but it will be worth the investment for driveability.

other than that your list looks good to me!
Click to expand...

X2 on this. All of it.

2014 JKUR
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
MR.Ty said:
X2 on this. All of it.

2014 JKUR
Click to expand...

Any thoughts on 5.13 in the D30 (after Evo Cs)? Or anything else to beef things up? I dont have a whole lot of money to work with. Adding gears to phase 1 is gonna push me back but I can deal with it if need be.
 
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cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Jackal01 said:
Any thoughts on 5.13 in the D30 (after Evo Cs)? Or anything else to beef things up?
Click to expand...

i wouldnt put to much money into the D30. all i did was evo gussets, gears, and i did chromoly shafts as well. save the money you would put into the d30 into saving up for a Pro Rock 44
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
cozdude said:
i wouldnt put to much money into the D30. all i did was evo gussets, gears, and i did chromoly shafts as well. save the money you would put into the d30 into saving up for a Pro Rock 44
Click to expand...

So do just shafts, Cs and gears? or just gears and Cs?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Jackal01 said:
So do just shafts, Cs and gears? or just gears and Cs?
Click to expand...

up to you but i would just stay with stock till they break. if they do you can replace them with stock again or upgrade. i only upgraded my shafts because i broke a u joint on one of them, so i went chromolys with full circle clips after the fact.
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
Next question. With the 4" Enforcer are front and rear drive shafts required? I want to say yes but I have seen builds on here that do not have both aftermarket drive shafts on a 2011 JKU auto with 4"lift. The "Newbie suspension" section was a little confusing to me. I would like to know what is needed, what would be advised to have and what would be a "luxury"item. I have tried to get the answers for it all but I haven't found a straight answer. Track bars, Control arms, etc.
 
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Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
Jackal01 said:
Next question. With the 4" Enforcer are front and rear drive shafts required? I want to say yes but I have seen builds on here that do not have both aftermarket drive shafts on a 2011 JKU auto with 4"lift. The "Newbie suspension" section was a little confusing to me. I would like to know what is needed, what would be advised to have and what would be a "luxury"item. I have tried to get the answers for it all but I haven't found a straight answer. Track bars, Control arms, etc.
Click to expand...


Bump for my question. I am still confused. Reading in Project-JK thread on the JE REEL drive shaft solutions for 2012+ Eddie says, "You only need to replace the front if you have an 07-11 with an automatic. If you have a 2012-up, you will need to replace the front regardless of what transmission you have. If you have a 2-door, you will need to replace the rear. You will also need to install adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle. This is critical."

But in the Newbie section here (albeit not stating whether or not this applies to what years), Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 4" lift?
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.

So my question is, 2011 JKU Auto with 4" lift, are both drive shafts required to be replaced or just one or the other? :thinking:
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Jackal01 said:
Bump for my question. I am still confused. Reading in Project-JK thread on the JE REEL drive shaft solutions for 2012+ Eddie says, "You only need to replace the front if you have an 07-11 with an automatic. If you have a 2012-up, you will need to replace the front regardless of what transmission you have. If you have a 2-door, you will need to replace the rear. You will also need to install adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle. This is critical."

But in the Newbie section here (albeit not stating whether or not this applies to what years), Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 4" lift?
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.

So my question is, 2011 JKU Auto with 4" lift, are both drive shafts required to be replaced or just one or the other? :thinking:
Click to expand...

yes you will want to do both eventually. if you can afford it, do both at once. if not, do the front first then the rear asap.
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
With a 3" Enforcer what else is needed? Front shaft. All control arms? Front track bar/reloc bracket. I will probably do the rear track bar anyway since they are cheap enough. I am just trying to find confirmation on drive shafts and control arms.
 
MTG

MTG

Caught the Bug
Jackal01 said:
With a 3" Enforcer what else is needed? Front shaft. All control arms? Front track bar/reloc bracket. I will probably do the rear track bar anyway since they are cheap enough. I am just trying to find confirmation on drive shafts and control arms.
Click to expand...

Not sure whether you have a 2 door or 4 door. If a 4 door you should get a front DS and lower from control arms (included in the package). The kit comes with the rear TB bracket. Add a draglink flip kit which includes the front TB bracket.
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
MTG said:
Not sure whether you have a 2 door or 4 door. If a 4 door you should get a front DS and lower from control arms (included in the package). The kit comes with the rear TB bracket. Add a draglink flip kit which includes the front TB bracket.
Click to expand...

4 door.

Front DS, done. But adjustable track bars wont hurt (don't need brackets since they both come with it). Control arms (other than the Evo ones) are probably unnecessary.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Jackal01 said:
4 door.

Front DS, done. But adjustable track bars wont hurt (don't need brackets since they both come with it). Control arms (other than the Evo ones) are probably unnecessary.
Click to expand...

If you get the drag link flip kit you can use your factory track bar. The rear comes with a relocation bracket which utilizes the factory track bar as well. The only other thing not included in the kit (other than the front drive shaft already mentioned) is rear upper control arms.
 
Jackal01

Jackal01

New member
cozdude said:
If you get the drag link flip kit you can use your factory track bar. The rear comes with a relocation bracket which utilizes the factory track bar as well. The only other thing not included in the kit (other than the front drive shaft already mentioned) is rear upper control arms.
Click to expand...

Interesting. What is the reason for just the rear uppers? I'll add them to the list. I don't understand why only the front lowers and rear uppers get replaced. I am still learning the geometry of the JKU so this is new to me! :yup:
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Jackal01 said:
Interesting. What is the reason for just the rear uppers? I'll add them to the list. I don't understand why only the front lowers and rear uppers get replaced. I am still learning the geometry of the JKU so this is new to me! :yup:
Click to expand...

Front lowers will fix your caster and rear uppers will fix your pinion angle. When you install a rear drive shaft it's really important to do them. I still run a stock rear shaft and installed rear upper arms just to help prolong the stock shaft. When looking take a look at currie arms since the utilize Johnny joints
 
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