E-Locker question

MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
After reading the thread about the PR44, I am wonder why you cause an aftermarket e-locker to replace the expensive rubi locker when it fails? I’m guessing that it should be as easy as replacing a connector for the aftermarket with the rubi locker? I’m sure voltage and resistance come into play somewhere, but that again seems to be to be as simple as adding in necessary component to work.
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
I re-read your question several times, but couldn't figure out what you're trying to ask.

Are you curious WHY someone would replace the Rubicon e-locker at all? Or are you asking how hard it would be to replace?
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
JK_Dave said:
I re-read your question several times, but couldn't figure out what you're trying to ask.

Are you curious WHY someone would replace the Rubicon e-locker at all? Or are you asking how hard it would be to replace?
Click to expand...

Well, first off I re-read my own question and no, I did not properly ask the question at all…
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?19050-RCV-axle-shafts-or-chromoly-for-PR44 In this thread, Dynatrac explains the difference between the Rubicon PR44 and the regular PR44

“Rubicon 44F housings are unique in 2-ways. The center pin of the Tru-Loc diff is offset to one side, and the Carrier bearings are slightly different size than earlier model 44’s. The RD157 is the only diff I know of that fits the Factory Rubicon Housing (carrier bearings) and has the 35-spline feature. We offer 2 variations of ProRock 44’s. One for Tru-loc factory Rubicon diffs, and one for conventional 44 (everything else) diffs. Think and plan ahead, they are not interchangeable later. The Tru-loc is a great device, but not the most durable. If you’re building a JK with 37’s or larger tires, consider switching to the ProRock, a new aftermarket diff, and shafts to match at the same time. Yes, that is more expensive. If you are a more mild trail guy, and on 37’s or smaller tires, the Tru-Loc in your Rubicon should last the life of your vehicle. Side note. A replacement Tru-Loc diff for your front Rubicon 44F at the dealer will set you back $1,920.00 MSRP. WOW!!”

Since I have a Rubicon and I would like to get a PR44 I was wondering if there is a better alternative to spending the $1,920.00 for a new locker should one fail. I don’t have exact prices, but I remember most e-lockers being around $1000. So to close (and hopefully properly ask) could you replace a stock Rubicon locker with a different and less expensive e-locker, but still wire it to the stock switch and on board computer?
 
nmwranglerx

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
MR.Ty said:
So to close (and hopefully properly ask) could you replace a stock Rubicon locker with a different and less expensive e-locker, but still wire it to the stock switch and on board computer?
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Yes, you can replace it with the new Eaton elocker (4pin design) or an ARB. If you replace with and ARB you will need to run 35 spline axle shafts. Eaton locker is about $900, ARB is a little more. It would be a real pain to try and wire it in to the computer though. I would just run a separate switch to bypass computer and stock switches.
 
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dwvninety

dwvninety

New member
nmwranglerx said:
Yes, you can replace it with the new Eaton elocker (4pin design) or an ARB. If you replace with and ARB you will need to run 35 spline axle shafts. Eaton locker is about $900, ARB is a little more
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I don't think the ARB air lockers will mate up to the factory Rubicon switch and computer.
 
SDG

SDG

Caught the Bug
You can always buy the new PR 44 setup with all new internals, ARB locker, gears, etc etc and then just sell your existing axle and recoop a chunk of change assuming its still in good condition. Then you are rid of the elocker problem all together.
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
SDG said:
You can always buy the new PR 44 setup with all new internals, ARB locker, gears, etc etc and then just sell your existing axle and recoop a chunk of change assuming its still in good condition. Then you are rid of the elocker problem all together.
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Well I'm hoping to maintain the factory switch and functionality (dash lights etc). I am hoping to save a grand IF my stock lockers were to fail after they are no longer under warranty but still be able to turn them on from the dash switch.

2014 JKUR
 
BBrown626

BBrown626

New member
MR.Ty said:
Well I'm hoping to maintain the factory switch and functionality (dash lights etc). I am hoping to save a grand IF my stock lockers were to fail after they are no longer under warranty but still be able to turn them on from the dash switch.

2014 JKUR
Click to expand...

Instead of trying to hook up to the factory wiring just disconnect the factory switches and e-lockers and run some new wire from the ARB solenoid to a switch you put in place of the factory switch? Maybe use the same location, but a new switch. I believe the existing switches are integrated into a circuit card. with a little work you could use the existing switches and maybe hook them up to a relay?


I am considering an axle upgrade too and have similar questions. Everything suggests the non-rubicon axles are the better choice, though it may cost a touch more and require a little more work.

Thank you.
 
suicideking

suicideking

New member
To the best of my knowledge, no other locker will work with the factory rubicon button other than a replacement rubicon locker.

I havea Rubi front D44 on my Sport. The switch to activate the locker is a simple $5 - $10 12v switch. There is no need to use the factory button. In fact, it would be a giant waste of money to seek out any solution that would use the factory button. An Eaton or ARB will out perform the factory locker.
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
suicideking said:
To the best of my knowledge, no other locker will work with the factory rubicon button other than a replacement rubicon locker.

I havea Rubi front D44 on my Sport. The switch to activate the locker is a simple $5 - $10 12v switch. There is no need to use the factory button. In fact, it would be a giant waste of money to seek out any solution that would use the factory button. An Eaton or ARB will out perform the factory locker.
Click to expand...

Alright, Thanks for the info. :thumb:
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
Yeah, the problem is that the stock locker switch is one switch for both your front and rear lockers. Since they're electronic, they probably run through your canbus and the effort to keep that switch and make it work with your stock rear locker and aftermarket front really isn't worth the hassle IMO. Best of luck however you decide to go!
 
BBrown626

BBrown626

New member
JK_Dave said:
Yeah, the problem is that the stock locker switch is one switch for both your front and rear lockers. Since they're electronic, they probably run through your canbus and the effort to keep that switch and make it work with your stock rear locker and aftermarket front really isn't worth the hassle IMO. Best of luck however you decide to go!
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I was thinking you might be able to use the same switch or the same location with a new switch, but in either case using new wiring. I'd like to avoid having some decommissioned extra switches on the dash. Maybe just cover them with a sticker.
 
Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
BBrown626 said:
I was thinking you might be able to use the same switch or the same location with a new switch, but in either case using new wiring. I'd like to avoid having some decommissioned extra switches on the dash. Maybe just cover them with a sticker.
Click to expand...

It's not just a switch. There is a mini-computer board behind the switch panel.
 
M

Manvan

Member
If the problem is that you want to control an aftermarket locker with the stock controls, use the Rubi switch to activate a relay to control the new locker. That way the solenoid can control a powered circuit or an air valve.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
BBrown626 said:
I was thinking you might be able to use the same switch or the same location with a new switch, but in either case using new wiring. I'd like to avoid having some decommissioned extra switches on the dash. Maybe just cover them with a sticker.
Click to expand...

Lol at Sharkey said, the computer board behind the switch prevents that. The electrical work I was looking at doing was going to happen at the differentials and simply plug into the old wiring for tge factory lockers. Since that seems to be to much trouble ill just run them u ntill they fail and probably go to an arb set up. Thanks for all the responses. :thumbup:

2014 JKUR
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
Manvan said:
If the problem is that you want to control an aftermarket locker with the stock controls, use the Rubi switch to activate a relay to control the new locker. That way the solenoid can control a powered circuit or an air valve.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I think that when both the sway bar and lockers fail I'm going to rip out the factory switch and put my swtich panel there. Since all of these events are at least three years from now thanks to the warranty. :D

2014 JKUR
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
suicideking said:
To the best of my knowledge, no other locker will work with the factory rubicon button other than a replacement rubicon locker.

I havea Rubi front D44 on my Sport. The switch to activate the locker is a simple $5 - $10 12v switch. There is no need to use the factory button. In fact, it would be a giant waste of money to seek out any solution that would use the factory button. An Eaton or ARB will out perform the factory locker.
Click to expand...

It can be done and Off Road Evolution got my ARB's running off the factory switches on Moby. It just takes some work and knowhow. Unfortunately, I don't know how they did :crazyeyes:
 
Rebel JK

Rebel JK

New member
I would think seperate air solenoid at the diffs would be able to use factory 12v signal from factory switch for control. One would need to rewire plug of course. Whether its 12v energizing the stock rubi e locker or air solenoid, how would it matter?
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
wayoflife said:
It can be done and Off Road Evolution got my ARB's running off the factory switches on Moby. It just takes some work and knowhow. Unfortunately, I don't know how they did :crazyeyes:
Click to expand...

That's nifty. Does it work like factory (lock and unlock the rear by pushing the bottom of the swtich and the front by pushing the top) and can you only actuate it while in 4low? Is the compressor wired to a different switch some where else if so where?

2014 JKUR
 
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