Axle Shaft Questions...

jnabird333

jnabird333

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After my last wheeling trip to the Badlands, I noticed a little brake squeak coming from the passenger rear. I had hoped that a clean and adjustment would resolve this but as it turns out I have a bent axle flange on the passenger rear (actually the driver's side is a little tweaked too but not near as bad as the passenger).

I had always planned on upgrading axle shafts in the near future but am bummed for two reasons. First, I had hoped to keep the stockers for spares. And secondly, we have babied these things... (as far as wheel speed and big hits go anyway). I have backed off of hills that were going to require "a little bump" to protect the axles. Don't get me wrong, we play about as hard as one can on the East Coast, but have done so in a manner that I really am surprised to have this issue.

So anyway, I'm in the market for axle shafts. I need rears, but plan on getting fronts while I'm at it. I have no plans on running RCVs because I can darn near buy two sets of traditional chromoly ones for the cost of one RCV set. Additionally, I don't like where the likely failure is moved to.

In a another thread, Dynatrac posted some comments about the quality of some brands but was professional enough not to sling mud and disclose what manufacturers they were with.

My questions are...

What brands should I avoid? Why?

Is the failure I had somewhat common? Is there anything else I can do to avoid it in the future? If you've wheeled with me you know I keep things pretty damn slow and controlled so I'm bothered by the bend...

BTW:
I have a 13' JKUR
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Being that you're running 37's, there's really not a whole lot you can do to prevent bending a flange in the future REGARDLESS of what shafts you run. It's just the nature of the beast with semi-float shafts. The only way you can mitigate it for good is to run a full-float axle but, I would imagine that's not something you'd prefer to do.

Having said that, how bad is the bend? I mean, is it visible or just annoying? If it's the latter, I wouldn't worry about it too much. A good hosing out of your brakes and maybe applying some brake squeak stop to the back of the pads will help take care of the squeak. Even if it is slightly visible, I wouldn't hesitate to use it as a trail spare.

Regarding what brands to get, I would be the first to say that I'm with Dynatrac and all about made in the USA products. Unfortunately, there just aren't a whole lot of made in the USA options out there when it comes to axle shafts and again, being that we are talking about a semi-float Dana 44 shaft, I just can't see it being worth it to buy the one or two options available being that they WILL still bend. I know that G2 has started to sell a premier line of shafts that are gold in color and supposedly, they are made by Foote which is here in the USA. At SEMA last year, I was shown a set of shafts that did in fact have the Foote stamp on them but, around the corner, I saw a set that didn't. Of course, new factory shafts will be made in the USA and really, will be just as strong as anything else you can get out there. In any case, for they are and for the cost, I would say to just get a good chromoly replacement - Alloy USA, G2 and the like all offer decent shafts and they will all cost less than OE.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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Thanks for the quick reply!

Both sides are visible but I would put the driver's side in the annoying category. The passenger's side is clearly visible and is something that really needs addressed. I can watch the brake caliper wobble fairly significantly. It's tough to get a good measurement, but I would say it is causing the tire to wobble more than 1/2" in/out.

You are correct that I would prefer to not go full float...yet. I have other more important things to do, like hydro assist so I can turn in the rocks.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jnabird333 said:
Thanks for the quick reply!

Both sides are visible but I would put the driver's side in the annoying category. The passenger's side is clearly visible and is something that really needs addressed. I can watch the brake caliper wobble fairly significantly. It's tough to get a good measurement, but I would say it is causing the tire to wobble more than 1/2" in/out.

You are correct that I would prefer to not go full float...yet. I have other more important things to do, like hydro assist so I can turn in the rocks.
Click to expand...

It's too bad that you have a Rubicon rear axle as the shafts are different lengths. In other words, you can keep the driver side as a spare but the passenger side will probably have to get tossed. When you get your new shafts, try to make sure to get them with the bearing pressed on. It'll cost a bit more but is totally worth it.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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Will do...

It looks like the G2 Gold jobs are only available for 35 spline carriers. :grayno:

I'm leaning toward Ten Factory at the moment because it looks like the G2 sometimes sources them and Ron (who started Ten Factory) has been around the block and left Alloy USA because he was dissatisfied with their quality standards.

(at least that's what the interwebs say ;) )
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jnabird333 said:
Will do...

It looks like the G2 Gold jobs are only available for 35 spline carriers. :grayno:

I'm leaning toward Ten Factory at the moment because it looks like the G2 sometimes sources them and Ron (who started Ten Factory) has been around the block and left Alloy USA because he was dissatisfied with their quality standards.

(at least that's what the interwebs say ;) )
Click to expand...

LOL!! Gotta love the interweb. :crazyeyes:

I know Ron and he's a good guy. I wouldn't hesitate to run Ten Factory shafts.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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Thanks.... I have the Ten Factory shafts on order. I'm praying I get them in time to install before the weekend. We have back to back to back (next three weekends) of wheeling/Jeeping planned.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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Bumping this with the need for help....

My shafts are supposed to be here tomorrow so I started the tear down tonight. Driver's side went well although it needed more coaxing out than I expected.

The passenger side however is kicking my ass. I just walked into the house with my tail tucked between my legs. I simply can not pry it out. Tried slide hammer, nothing. I even made a bar to bolt to the studs so I had something solid to beat on. After several minutes of beating all I have is a bent bar. The axle hasn't budged.

Any suggestions?
 
StrizzyChris

StrizzyChris

New member
As long as you have removed all the nuts, the shaft should come out. Sometimes they need a little coaxing with a slide hammer, but should come out fairly easily with one of those. There's no inner diff c-clips like other vehicles that would be holding it in place. What kind of slide hammer are you using? One like this should do it, and most autozones have them for free rental.

0004.jpg
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
jnabird333 said:
Bumping this with the need for help....

My shafts are supposed to be here tomorrow so I started the tear down tonight. Driver's side went well although it needed more coaxing out than I expected.

The passenger side however is kicking my ass. I just walked into the house with my tail tucked between my legs. I simply can not pry it out. Tried slide hammer, nothing. I even made a bar to bolt to the studs so I had something solid to beat on. After several minutes of beating all I have is a bent bar. The axle hasn't budged.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Mine were a real bear to get out. We used a long prybar on the metal piece the shoes ride on and pryed on the flange and beat the flange also with a bfh.. Went flying back when it finally popped loose.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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Thanks guys I am on a mission to find a bigger/better slide hammer today. The one I have is smaller and I only have the bearing race hook to grab the out portion of the shaft. I'm hoping a direct (inline) blow will free it.

I think the issue is the rust. It's sad how bad everything is rusted in the 1.5 years. Especially when you consider I clean my brakes after every outting with water/mud.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
20jk08

20jk08

Member
re:

I just went through this battle, except with both sides of the jeep. I ended up having to use forks between the axle housing and the backing plate, forcing one side out a bit, wedging it, then working on the other side, back and forth till they popped out,. I use 3 forks, and a ballpeen hammer to defeat the enemy...dang rust, and it's only a 1/2" of metal holding them,,

06SnowSpecToolsE_img_93.jpg
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
I just had a battle with my shafts to swap out my u joints and blood hell I have never spent that long trying to get something out.

I did have an impact hammer on hand though
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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IT'S OUT! :yup: :clap2:

Thanks for the help guys! The better slide hammer and proper mounting tool did the trick.

I gotta say, I was bummed that I bent my flanges because I lost my trail spares, but I'm not sure how feasible it it to replace these on the trail for us east coasters. I know anything can be done but I don'y plan on carrying a slide hammer as a trail tool :crazyeyes:
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Man, I am so glad that I don't live out in the east. The rust crap you guys have to deal with just sucks. Glad to hear you got your shafts out.
 
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