Evo rear coilover spring rates?

HDGasser

HDGasser

New member
Ok I've been running around for a while now with the Evo Bolt on's and LOVE them!!

Other than being so damn noisy (AGM sliders are on there way) my only rear issue is that the rear seems to be too soft. And here's what I've tried so far...

I've cranked the top ring down some and it helped, but looked kinda stupid having the ass end in the air like a hot rod.

Sooo I lowered them back down and turned down the "transition rings"? Dunno what the 2 silver lock rings are called but in my mind they do just that. Transition weight to the lower, stiffer spring when you cycle the suspension.

So right now I have the lower spring pre loaded about 3/4-1" with the 2 silver rings, again this helped with the bottoming out but it seems to me something is being wasted by just using the lower spring. Again it helped reduce the bottoming out but with the wife, kid, cooler, and a Tupperware container in the back and heading up some steep hills and fast g-outs on fire roads it would still hit the bumps.

Right now my kings are set up from evo with a 200/250 coils. I've been contemplating doing a 250/250 setup, or a 200/300 but I think I'll be in the same boat I'm in now not utilizing the lighter spring.

Next on my to-do list is air bumps, but I don't want to be using the bumps as shocks.

Who's done testing with springs? Anybody else have this problem? Not really trying to or with anybody in the jeep with a soft top I can slam the axle into the bumps quite easily.

Talk to me people!!??
 
tweetie7123

tweetie7123

I'm a LOSER
HDGasser said:
Ok I've been running around for a while now with the Evo Bolt on's and LOVE them!!

Other than being so damn noisy (AGM sliders are on there way) my only rear issue is that the rear seems to be too soft. And here's what I've tried so far...

I've cranked the top ring down some and it helped, but looked kinda stupid having the ass end in the air like a hot rod.

Sooo I lowered them back down and turned down the "transition rings"? Dunno what the 2 silver lock rings are called but in my mind they do just that. Transition weight to the lower, stiffer spring when you cycle the suspension.

So right now I have the lower spring pre loaded about 3/4-1" with the 2 silver rings, again this helped with the bottoming out but it seems to me something is being wasted by just using the lower spring. Again it helped reduce the bottoming out but with the wife, kid, cooler, and a Tupperware container in the back and heading up some steep hills and fast g-outs on fire roads it would still hit the bumps.

Right now my kings are set up from evo with a 200/250 coils. I've been contemplating doing a 250/250 setup, or a 200/300 but I think I'll be in the same boat I'm in now not utilizing the lighter spring.

Next on my to-do list is air bumps, but I don't want to be using the bumps as shocks.

Who's done testing with springs? Anybody else have this problem? Not really trying to or with anybody in the jeep with a soft top I can slam the axle into the bumps quite easily.

Talk to me people!!??
Click to expand...

I thought you were selling this lol


2013 jkr
And no I did not forget the u in jkr :) 2 door life
 
HDGasser

HDGasser

New member
tweetie7123 said:
I thought you were selling this lol


2013 jkr
And no I did not forget the u in jkr :) 2 door life
Click to expand...


It's "for sale" doesn't mean it's going anywhere!!

I called the old lady's bluff. I have had a few offers but nothing that tickled my fancy.

Everything's forsale... For the right price.
 
Last edited:
tweetie7123

tweetie7123

I'm a LOSER
HDGasser said:
It's "for sale" doesn't mean it's going anywhere!!

I called the old lady's bluff... I have had a few offers but nothing that tickled my fancy.
Click to expand...

It takes a lot to tickle your fancy dosent it lol I told you I'll trade you my two door lol but u take over payments haha jk .... Hey shoot me a text wanna see if you wanna join wheeling this weekend


2013 jkr
And no I did not forget the u in jkr :) 2 door life
 
Jkzinger

Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
I switched mine to 300/250 in the back and that solved my sag unless I get really crazy and overpack. Also make sure the silver rings are only 1/2 inch from the spring. That solved my noise issue as it used to sound like a haywagon before that.
 
HDGasser

HDGasser

New member
Jkzinger said:
I switched mine to 300/250 in the back and that solved my sag unless I get really crazy and overpack. Also make sure the silver rings are only 1/2 inch from the spring. That solved my noise issue as it used to sound like a haywagon before that.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking of doing, 250/300. How's the ride unloaded? You run a soft top or hard?

LMAO! Haywagon, I like that. I had the rings set to about 3/4 away from the sliders and it was almost embarrassing to drive over speed bumps mall crawlin!

Even now that I have the rings pre loading the lower spring they still make some noise but nowhere near what they were, granted there dirty as hell and that makes it worse. Hopefully the agm sliders get rid of it.

Can't have mommas daily driver sounding like a 70's hoopty.
 
BBrown626

BBrown626

New member
HDGasser said:
Ok I've been running around for a while now with the Evo Bolt on's and LOVE them!!

Other than being so damn noisy (AGM sliders are on there way) my only rear issue is that the rear seems to be too soft. And here's what I've tried so far...

I've cranked the top ring down some and it helped, but looked kinda stupid having the ass end in the air like a hot rod.

Sooo I lowered them back down and turned down the "transition rings"? Dunno what the 2 silver lock rings are called but in my mind they do just that. Transition weight to the lower, stiffer spring when you cycle the suspension.

So right now I have the lower spring pre loaded about 3/4-1" with the 2 silver rings, again this helped with the bottoming out but it seems to me something is being wasted by just using the lower spring. Again it helped reduce the bottoming out but with the wife, kid, cooler, and a Tupperware container in the back and heading up some steep hills and fast g-outs on fire roads it would still hit the bumps.

Right now my kings are set up from evo with a 200/250 coils. I've been contemplating doing a 250/250 setup, or a 200/300 but I think I'll be in the same boat I'm in now not utilizing the lighter spring.

Next on my to-do list is air bumps, but I don't want to be using the bumps as shocks.

Who's done testing with springs? Anybody else have this problem? Not really trying to or with anybody in the jeep with a soft top I can slam the axle into the bumps quite easily.

Talk to me people!!??
Click to expand...

The "stock" setup worked well for me after adjusting the transition ring so I am on the lower spring when empty and on flat ground. I have a two door though and my setup is without extra weight in the back, just recovery gear and no back seat. When loaded for the trail I have about an inch of up-travel left in the back, but I don't bottom much.

If you don't have different spring rates between top and bottom then your giving up the benefit of a dual spring rate which is a firmer ride near bottoming, but softer compression through the rest of the shock stroke. Ideally you want the springs to require minimal adjustment of the pre-load adjuster (the top ring) when at your desired ride height. Pre-loading the shock too much will reduce available compression travel. In other words, the desired ride height should be set by adjusting spring rates and some pre-load.

I am not the suspension guru, but 250/250 is cheaper to test out since would only replace one spring on each shock. You might call ORE as surely they have answered the same question for many other folks.
 
Jkzinger

Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
Mine rides really great now loaded or unloaded. Been running topless and doorless for awhile and I have them set for just a little rake so I end up level when wheeling fully loaded. I have a hardtop and a really heavy LOD rear bumper with a 37" Nitto Trail Grappler on slabs for a spare. The AGM sliders should quiet them.
 
RanchoRubi

RanchoRubi

Caught the Bug
AGM sliders will definitely quiet things down. I've had them on from the beginning going on 2 yrs and they are still quiet.
Regarding rear coils, I've had 200/200, 200/250, and now 250/250. I run soft top and carry most of my trail tools and spares in rear. I think the 250/250 will give you the best all around set up with minimal bottoming when fully loaded with gear. Set the transition rings at around 3/4 inches. You should be at about a 4.5 " lift.
Good luck
 
trailless

trailless

Caught the Bug
I'm learning more about the bolt ons as I want to go that route. So I can't offer advice but I have a question if you don't mind.

What type of noise do you have? Why would new or different sliders make a difference?
 
J

JaySC

Member
I'm curious as well. I've been running the bolt-ons for 2 years and don't have any noise.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
HDGasser

HDGasser

New member
BBrown626 said:
The "stock" setup worked well for me after adjusting the transition ring so I am on the lower spring when empty and on flat ground. I have a two door though and my setup is without extra weight in the back, just recovery gear and no back seat. When loaded for the trail I have about an inch of up-travel left in the back, but I don't bottom much.

If you don't have different spring rates between top and bottom then your giving up the benefit of a dual spring rate which is a firmer ride near bottoming, but softer compression through the rest of the shock stroke. Ideally you want the springs to require minimal adjustment of the pre-load adjuster (the top ring) when at your desired ride height. Pre-loading the shock too much will reduce available compression travel. In other words, the desired ride height should be set by adjusting spring rates and some pre-load.

I am not the suspension guru, but 250/250 is cheaper to test out since would only replace one spring on each shock. You might call ORE as surely they have answered the same question for many other folks.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input BBrown, 2dr vs 4dr are totally different animals tho. But I do agree about limiting the compression by preloading the coilovers to much.

What I did was more of a test... While it worked it's still not to my liking.
 
HDGasser

HDGasser

New member
Jkzinger said:
Mine rides really great now loaded or unloaded. Been running topless and doorless for awhile and I have them set for just a little rake so I end up level when wheeling fully loaded. I have a hardtop and a really heavy LOD rear bumper with a 37" Nitto Trail Grappler on slabs for a spare. The AGM sliders should quiet them.
Click to expand...

Awesome... Were running similar setups, but all my bumpers and carrier are aluminum and my wheel and tire aren't as heavy either.

Are you on air bumps?



RanchoRubi said:
AGM sliders will definitely quiet things down. I've had them on from the beginning going on 2 yrs and they are still quiet.
Regarding rear coils, I've had 200/200, 200/250, and now 250/250. I run soft top and carry most of my trail tools and spares in rear. I think the 250/250 will give you the best all around set up with minimal bottoming when fully loaded with gear. Set the transition rings at around 3/4 inches. You should be at about a 4.5 " lift.
Good luck
Click to expand...

Are you running air bumps too?
 
HDGasser

HDGasser

New member
trailless said:
I'm learning more about the bolt ons as I want to go that route. So I can't offer advice but I have a question if you don't mind.

What type of noise do you have? Why would new or different sliders make a difference?
Click to expand...

The noise is coming from the slider that separates the 2 springs. Since the springs aren't perfectly flat they tend to put the short plastic slider on a bind on the body of the coilover, my fronts barely make any noise when hitting bumps or g-outs but for some god forsaken reason my rears sound like a haywagon!

Some people don't have the problem, some do? I've tried twisting the springs around to clock them differently but no luck.

All German Motorsports (AGM) make some really nice aluminum sliders that are longer so they hold the spring as straight as possible and also have some kind of snazzy Teflon insert that rides on the coilover body that insures quiet operation. Only bad thing is there about $110 bucks a pop.
 
SDG

SDG

Caught the Bug
HDGasser said:
See... Luck of the draw? The way the coils are cut? I dunno.
Click to expand...

Thats funny, mine used to click when they were new. If I was stopped and accelerated I could hear all 4 click 1 time sequentially as I accelerated, but after a few weeks they settled in an stopped. Now they only ocasionally do it.
 
Jkzinger

Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
I get various small noises depending on how dirty they are, wheeling or not, etc. I got rid of the really noisy haywagon sound by adjusting the silver rings a 1/2" above the slider. When I first had them on they were 4 inches above which allowed the slider to move really far all time and I was basically using one spring.
 
RanchoRubi

RanchoRubi

Caught the Bug
HDGasser said:
So before I go and spend a bunch of $$$ on springs... Does anybody here have some 12" 250's or 300's??
Click to expand...

Sorry, my old 250s were shot. Btw in the rear bottoms are 12" and tops are 10". I made the mistake of 12 and 12 after my first tweak. It made the rear harsh.
 
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