Break-in on PR60/80?

SmokinV10

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
After break in, is there any special procedure for changing the gear oil on a ProRock 60 and 80? I am assuming to pop the front and rear covers. Tap the covers with a mallet, let the oil drain. Inspect for abnormal wear, and then refill? I just fill through the one fill port on top? Is there any gauge on how much? I am planning on using "the right stuff" from Permatex for the silicone. Any torque specs on the bolts? Any guidance on how long it should dry before filling and putting it back in service? I never dealt with drivetrain maintenance this before so any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.
 
SmokinV10

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
I asked Drew on the phone after I left. He explained it enough for me to feel satisfied before I hung up and they closed for the weekend....basically I wasnt thorough in my questions. The devil is the details and I didnt bother to "dot all the i's and cross all the t's" before I hung up. Only problem is that I want to do this on Sunday. I COULD wait until Monday, but I figured one of you would know the answer.
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
My 60 took about 3.5. I'm judging this based on the 4 qts I put in minus what i spilled trying to get it in the little top fill hole and what puked out my vent for the next few days. I'd highly recommend getting a little lube transfer pump. The rear is a bitch to get to. They are like $5 at HF.

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Tumbleweed

Tumbleweed

Member
Before you drain the diffs, make a dipstick out of a zip tie or??? Measure the amount in there now and duplicate it. Drain into something you can measure.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
On your ProRock 80, there are 2 fill ports, one on the diff cover like you would always see and then another on the housing by the pinion. After re-installing your differential cover, you'll want to make sure you add oil at the pinion fill hole first - maybe about half a quart or so (this will ensure the proprietary pinion oiling system will have fluid in it) and then finish it up by using the fill hole on the diff cover. Remember, you just want to fill the diff until the fluid is at about at the base of the axle tubes or, up until it oozes out the weep hole if your diff cover came with one. You do NOT want to overfill the diff.

Your front ProRock 60 shouldn't have a pinion side fill port. If changes have been made since that I don't know about and it does come with one, you need to do the same there.
 
SaddleTramp

SaddleTramp

Member
While we're on the subject, with the manual front hubs, to break-in the front gears, is it recommended to run the first 500 miles with the front hubs locked to keep the front gears turning to heat and break them in like traditionally and like the rears or is it just given that the front will break in when it's used off road?
 
xkid

xkid

New member
Question, could you put a 60 in the rear and move your own rear rubi
D44 up front.
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Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
xkid said:
Question, could you put a 60 in the rear and move your own rear rubi
D44 up front.
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Click to expand...

How would you do that? :thinking: The rear Rubi 44 has the pumpkin in the middle of the housing...let alone the absence of c's on the end for steering.
 
GCM 2

GCM 2

New member
SaddleTramp said:
While we're on the subject, with the manual front hubs, to break-in the front gears, is it recommended to run the first 500 miles with the front hubs locked to keep the front gears turning to heat and break them in like traditionally and like the rears or is it just given that the front will break in when it's used off road?
Click to expand...

It does not really matter which technique you use. For some people, if they choose to do it after 500 miles of locked in off road/trail use, they could be waiting months or even a few years depending on where they live before they do initial service on their front differential. Unless you live out west, 500 miles of off road driving could take someone a long time to rack up :icon_crazy:
 
GCM 2

GCM 2

New member
Sharkey said:
How would you do that? :thinking: The rear Rubi 44 has the pumpkin in the middle of the housing...let alone the absence of c's on the end for steering.
Click to expand...

Oh it's possible to do it, just not practical, and by the time you pay for all the labor and parts to fab that rear D44 into a steering front D44, you have just bought the equivilant of a brand new front fully loaded ProRock 60. :thinking:
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
GCM 2 said:
Oh it's possible to do it, just not practical, and by the time you pay for all the labor and parts to fab that rear D44 into a steering front D44, you have just bought the equivilant of a brand new front fully loaded ProRock 60. :thinking:
Click to expand...

You know, when I went to Northridge, they did have a scrambler that they were going to put jk axles under. So I guess anything is possible.
 
xkid

xkid

New member
GCM 2 said:
Oh it's possible to do it, just not practical, and by the time you pay for all the labor and parts to fab that rear D44 into a steering front D44, you have just bought the equivilant of a brand new front fully loaded ProRock 60. :thinking:
Click to expand...

Good to know.

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