RebelconJk
New member
Hi there, just wondering if anyone is running 40s on their Dana 44s? I'm currently running 37x12.50 17s on my Rubicon. I have the teraflex 6in long arm kit on there. Just wondering if the 44s can take that big of a tire?
40s on Dana 44?
- Thread starter RebelconJk
- Start date
GCM 2
New member
Sure, you can run 40"s, but are you going to use the jeep as a parking lot princess or are you going to wheel it? There are a handful of guys who will tell you they have done it :crazyeyes:, but why would you want to run something that is doomed to fail. And if you chose to regear to the proper ring and pinion of a 5.38 to turn those 40"s and install C gussets on your inner knuckles, truss the entire length of the axle tubes and differential housing, it is still a fact you are going to break something internally.
Why not just save the money you are going to spend on five 40" tires and put that towards a set of Dana 60 axles, and continue to save the rest of the money needed for the front and rear axles while still running the 37"s :thinking:
Bottom line is: Looking cool on big 40" tires is going to cost you more in the long run by not having the right foundation to actually run 40" tires
Why not just save the money you are going to spend on five 40" tires and put that towards a set of Dana 60 axles, and continue to save the rest of the money needed for the front and rear axles while still running the 37"s :thinking:
Bottom line is: Looking cool on big 40" tires is going to cost you more in the long run by not having the right foundation to actually run 40" tires
MTG
Caught the Bug
9 runs? Hell at the rate I'm going that's like 2 years! Gonna order me some 40s today! :rock:
just-lift-it
LOSER
hahaa yeah 9 runs is some peopoles full year a lot of buddies i know are lucky to have the free times 4 times a year to get out! that made me laugh on this boring thursday
RebelconJk
New member
Haha will do. I thought it was a bad idea, just wanted to see everybody's thoughts. I'll stick with my 37s thanks for the feedback. It's new tire time and I was just thinking dumb. Haha.
JKsix
New member
But you can run 37s on Dana 44s with no issues?
Don't know if I said that. What I will say is that everyone has their own idea of what "wheeling hard" and how "often" is often. For me, I've had my fair share of problems running 37's on factory Dana 44's over the last 7+ years but, that's just me. I'm sure you can find plenty of guys who'll swear they run 40's on a Dana 30 and wheel their Jeep hard all the time and how you just need to be easy on the skinny pedal and really, maybe they can and maybe they do. Again, everyone has their own idea of what "wheeling hard" and how "often" is often.
JKsix
New member
Alright. I'm just trying to learn all I can so I'm better educated when deciding on what parts I buy for my build. I want to do it right the first time with an end goal of running 37s the smartest way possible.
JKsix
New member
I would put the following axle required or modifications for tire size as:
33" - max for stock no change axles and you should be completely safe.
35" - stock D44 with Chromoly axle shafts, Inner C gussets, and maybe inner sleeves or truss on front and re-gearing to get back to stock or better ratio.
37" - axle swap to PR44 or similar with better than stock ratio, plus steering sector shaft and tie rod upgrades.
40" - D60/D80/14B with hydraulic steering assist.
Or throw on a set of Rockwells and run whatever you want.
Thank you! Is there a difference between Dana 44 and PR44?
Agreed
Partially agree. If it were me, I would skip the sleeves and would NOT run a truss. C gussets are a must and I personally would run chromoly shafts if for no other reason than the fact that most can be had with full circle clips.
Partially agree. ProRock 44 up front with no more than 5.13 gear ratio. Any higher and your pinion will be too small and WILL be a weak link. Chromoly shafts would be a must for me. Sector shaft brace is a waste of money. A ram assist would be very beneficial. HD tie-rod would be beneficial on ALL setups. I personally would recommend a Trail 60 for the rear especially if you live out west. East coast guys don't need to worry about this as much.
Agreed. At bare minimum, a ProRock 60 front and rear is what I would recommend. Full-float rear would be even better. If you're running a HEMI or LS, a ProRock 80 is what I would get. Ram assist is a must.
Or throw on a set of Rockwells and run whatever you want.
:cheesy:
Yes. The factory Dana 44 is in reality, a Dana 30 with a Dana 44 differential. A ProRock 44 is made by Dynatrac and is BETTER than a true 44 in that it has bigger tubes, thicker tubes, massive end forgings, beefy brackets, can be had with built in 6° caster and has a proprietary differential design that offers the most ground clearance, bar none. They aren't cheap but you get what you pay for.
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
This makes me sad. The Jeeper in me hates living on the east coast. :grayno:
JKsix
New member
Thank you Eddie. I'm adding a PR44 to my build list. 5.13 ratio it is as well.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Sleeves won't stop your axle from bending and that is where most of the issues are. How many axle tubes have you seen split besides trail bud's in the Wayalife video?
You can buy a spare sector shaft for about $150. A spare steering box for $100-300. A sector shaft brace is $300+. I'd rather bring the spare where I could even help someone else if needed.