Cam bolts

TheGrinch

TheGrinch

New member
Hi guys!

I've been experiencing death wobble and then just wobble.
I've been lucky enough to have this forum to fix the jeep fast.
Track bar hd, hd ball joint, new Fox steering damper.
BUT,

The local BIG, work with crhrysler, Jeep specialist and mod shop. Is telling me that I should go with cam bolts to fix my caster and overall geometry. Even thought I told him I would go for adjusdtable arms.

He said: yes you would gain ANGLE AJUSTMENT POINTS. But with cam bolts you'd gain alignement point

I understant de overall: propulsion geometry thing and housing positionning. But his statement us kinda different then what I read elswhere!!!

Am I clear?

Here is the overall stuff I put under to fix the wobbly shit

Jku 08
3:25 RC lift kit with:
Fox steering Damp
Procomp trackbar
Moog ball joints

Thanks

Jp
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Yeah, I wouldn't listen to them on this. Just a good set of lower control arms is all you need.
 
GCM 2

GCM 2

New member
It sounds like you already know the right answer.......Don't even bother with cam bolts, just do it right and install adjustable control arms. Maybe even find a different shop to work on your vehicle too ;)
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
all of the above from olram and gcm2^^^ skip the cam bolts and get adjustable arms to set your caster back to stock. make sure as well that your arms are the same length as well when installing. dont cross caster them.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
and the next explanation I pull out of my arse will convince you to get cam bolts, drop pitman arm and drop brackets to return your Jeep's geometry back to stock and it'll increase your power too!

now let me scratch a bit, I know the explanation is in there somewhere :icon_crazy:
 
S

SoK66

Self-Banned
TheGrinch said:
Hi guys!

I've been experiencing death wobble and then just wobble.
I've been lucky enough to have this forum to fix the jeep fast.
Track bar hd, hd ball joint, new Fox steering damper.
BUT,

The local BIG, work with crhrysler, Jeep specialist and mod shop. Is telling me that I should go with cam bolts to fix my caster and overall geometry. Even thought I told him I would go for adjusdtable arms.

He said: yes you would gain ANGLE AJUSTMENT POINTS. But with cam bolts you'd gain alignement point

I understant de overall: propulsion geometry thing and housing positionning. But his statement us kinda different then what I read elswhere!!!

Am I clear?

Here is the overall stuff I put under to fix the wobbly shit

Jku 08
3:25 RC lift kit with:
Fox steering Damp
Procomp trackbar
Moog ball joints

Thanks

Jp
Click to expand...

Get adjustable lower contrl arms for the win. Cam bolts are nothing but a PITA. Also, whie you're at it upgrade your mounting bolts to 9/16" grade 8 everywhere you have the stock 14mm bolts.

The stock front lower control arm mounting bracket holes at the axle have provision to be knocked out and allow the use of cam bolts for caster adjustment. Even if you don't have cam bolts, these holes can eventually get ovaled out, causing problems with front end alignment. Synergy and Teraflex sell what are called "cam bolt eliminators" which get rid of the slop in those lower front control arm bracket holes. Cheap and effective, we use them any tme we see those holes egged out. Axle stays put. Good luck!
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
SoK66 said:
Get adjustable lower contrl arms for the win. Cam bolts are nothing but a PITA. Also, whie you're at it upgrade your mounting bolts to 9/16" grade 8 everywhere you have the stock 14mm bolts.

The stock front lower control arm mounting bracket holes at the axle have provision to be knocked out and allow the use of cam bolts for caster adjustment. Even if you don't have cam bolts, these holes can eventually get ovaled out, causing problems with front end alignment. Synergy and Teraflex sell what are called "cam bolt eliminators" which get rid of the slop in those lower front control arm bracket holes. Cheap and effective, we use them any tme we see those holes egged out. Axle stays put. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Who's "we". And factory bolts are just fine if you keep them properly torqued.
 
S

SoK66

Self-Banned
olram30 said:
........And factory bolts are just fine if you keep them properly torqued.
Click to expand...

TUT, TUT and NAY, NAY on factory 14mm bolts!! Factory bolts are NOT OK on a lifted rig. Their 14mm diameter doesn't match the 9/16" holes in either the control arm or track bar brackets, or the corresponding bushing sleeves in the arms & bars. Worse yet, they aren't shouldered, but fully threaded, which under stress allows the exposed threads of the bolts to act like rat tail files on the bracket holes. This is a LONG understood and well established upgrade and everyone but RK users should observe it. FWIW, RK bushing sleeve holes are 14mm, which cures part of the issue.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
SoK66 said:
TUT, TUT and NAY, NAY on factory 14mm bolts!! Factory bolts are NOT OK on a lifted rig. Their 14mm diameter doesn't match the 9/16" holes in either the control arm or track bar brackets, or the corresponding bushing sleeves in the arms & bars. Worse yet, they aren't shouldered, but fully threaded, which under stress allows the exposed threads of the bolts to act like rat tail files on the bracket holes. This is a LONG understood and well established upgrade and everyone but RK users should observe it. FWIW, RK bushing sleeve holes are 14mm, which cures part of the issue.
Click to expand...

Lol, you can save the sales pitch for your customers.
 
piginajeep

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
SoK66 said:
TUT, TUT and NAY, NAY on factory 14mm bolts!! Factory bolts are NOT OK on a lifted rig. Their 14mm diameter doesn't match the 9/16" holes in either the control arm or track bar brackets, or the corresponding bushing sleeves in the arms & bars. Worse yet, they aren't shouldered, but fully threaded, which under stress allows the exposed threads of the bolts to act like rat tail files on the bracket holes. This is a LONG understood and well established upgrade and everyone but RK users should observe it. FWIW, RK bushing sleeve holes are 14mm, which cures part of the issue.
Click to expand...

BULLSHIT......

It's another scare tactic for sales.
 
Moochie

Moochie

Active Member
SoK66 said:
TUT, TUT and NAY, NAY on factory 14mm bolts!! Factory bolts are NOT OK on a lifted rig. Their 14mm diameter doesn't match the 9/16" holes in either the control arm or track bar brackets, or the corresponding bushing sleeves in the arms & bars. Worse yet, they aren't shouldered, but fully threaded, which under stress allows the exposed threads of the bolts to act like rat tail files on the bracket holes. This is a LONG understood and well established upgrade and everyone but RK users should observe it. FWIW, RK bushing sleeve holes are 14mm, which cures part of the issue.
Click to expand...

I have close to 125,000 miles on my 2008. Still using the stock bolts. Never had any problems.
 
S

SoK66

Self-Banned
piginajeep said:
BULLSHIT......

It's another scare tactic for sales.
Click to expand...

Who's selling anything, Ace Hardware? That's where I get 'em. We've seen enough egged out JK control arm & frame brackets to know never to leave those factory die grinder 14mm bolts in there. Cheap upgrade, bulletproof fix.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
SoK66 said:
TUT, TUT and NAY, NAY on factory 14mm bolts!! Factory bolts are NOT OK on a lifted rig. Their 14mm diameter doesn't match the 9/16" holes in either the control arm or track bar brackets, or the corresponding bushing sleeves in the arms & bars. Worse yet, they aren't shouldered, but fully threaded, which under stress allows the exposed threads of the bolts to act like rat tail files on the bracket holes. This is a LONG understood and well established upgrade and everyone but RK users should observe it. FWIW, RK bushing sleeve holes are 14mm, which cures part of the issue.
Click to expand...

Factory bolts are just fine. Nothin wrong with them at all. The grade 8 upgrade is a giant sales pitch. Go back to your shop and sell to your unknowing customs.
 
S

SoK66

Self-Banned
cozdude said:
Factory bolts are just fine. Nothin wrong with them at all. The grade 8 upgrade is a giant sales pitch. Go back to your shop and sell to your unknowing customs.
Click to expand...

What shop, what customers?

Go ahead & run the sloppy, bracket eating 14mm-in-a-9/16" hole SOBs for all I care. Lol!
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
SoK66 said:
What shop, what customers?

Go ahead & run the sloppy, bracket eating 14mm-in-a-9/16" hole SOBs for all I care. Lol!
Click to expand...

How come you didn't respond to Moochie who said he had 125,000 miles on his stock bolts?

Here's one for you. I replaced my suspension bolts with the 9/16's stuff just to prove people like you wrong. Ran both for 20,000 miles. I am currently running the stock bolts again because the 9/16's did NOTHING!

Actually the only thing they did was rub the sleeve on my control arm causing it to groove since it was too tight, but I digress.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
SoK66 said:
TUT, TUT and NAY, NAY on factory 14mm bolts!! Factory bolts are NOT OK on a lifted rig. Their 14mm diameter doesn't match the 9/16" holes in either the control arm or track bar brackets, or the corresponding bushing sleeves in the arms & bars. Worse yet, they aren't shouldered, but fully threaded, which under stress allows the exposed threads of the bolts to act like rat tail files on the bracket holes. This is a LONG understood and well established upgrade and everyone but RK users should observe it. FWIW, RK bushing sleeve holes are 14mm, which cures part of the issue.
Click to expand...

:cheesy: Okay, I think it's time to spill the beans and qualify yourself here pal. You really need to back up some of these nutty statements you keep on making here as if you're some kind of authority in the matter. I mean really, you're saying that people NEED to replace their factory 10.9 bolts with almost $50 worth of grade 8 bolts which are technically slightly weaker? Seriously, if you're Jeep is getting egged out mounting holes just after 45,000 miles, you need to buy yourself a good torque wrench and learn how to use it.

To anyone else reading this thread, allow me to state for the record that Moby, my 2007 JK with 40" tires, ProRock 60 front axle, ProRock 80 rear and EVO DTD suspension system is still running the SAME FACTORY BOLTS and have 140,000 miles on it. Rubicat has 70,000 miles on it and still running ALL factory bolts as well. If anyone really feels the need to get rid of their factory bolts, can I pay you what it'll cost to have them shipped to me? I love having spares. Thank you.
 
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