Thinking about a PR44 housing

bkac

Caught the Bug
I'm thinking about going to a PR44 unlimited housing vs a fully decked PR44. What problems are associated with the factory front locker? What are the disadvantages of going this route besides having to stay with the factory e-locker? I'm going to run 37s for the next few years.

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jeeeep

Hooked
I upgraded to pr44 in May about 11k miles since, I swapped all my d44 parts over ( except ball joints), haven't had any issues.

When the stock locker retires I'll still be able to switch to ARB or the E-locker.
Dynatrac was very helpful in helping with what my future upgrade plans were, give them a call.
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
I was told I either have to go with the pr housing for the factory locker or one for an ARB/Detroit Locker there was no way I could ever switch back and forth between lockers. So are you telling me currently you have a pro rock 44 with a factory e-locker that later you can upgrade to arb locker? Is it is standard AR be 44 in locker and that goes in it later?

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MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
I upgraded to pr44 in May about 11k miles since, I swapped all my d44 parts over ( except ball joints), haven't had any issues.

When the stock locker retires I'll still be able to switch to ARB or the E-locker.
Dynatrac was very helpful in helping with what my future upgrade plans were, give them a call.

I apologize for the thread hijack, but how much did that cost you? If you dont mind me asking?

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bkac

Caught the Bug
Not hijacking, I want to know too. :thumbup:

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cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I was told I either have to go with the pr housing for the factory locker or one for an ARB/Detroit Locker there was no way I could ever switch back and forth between lockers. So are you telling me currently you have a pro rock 44 with a factory e-locker that later you can upgrade to arb locker? Is it is standard AR be 44 in locker and that goes in it later?

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yes there is two different housing set ups. if you do the rubi housing (which allows for the factory locker) you have to use a certain arb locker that fits in the rubi housing. PR44 that doesnt use the factory stuff utilizes a bigger stronger arb locker from my understanding and is a different spline count as well.
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
I was told I either have to go with the pr housing for the factory locker or one for an ARB/Detroit Locker there was no way I could ever switch back and forth between lockers. So are you telling me currently you have a pro rock 44 with a factory e-locker that later you can upgrade to arb locker? Is it is standard AR be 44 in locker and that goes in it later?

This is my understanding as well. I would like to know if I'm wrong. FWIW I would skip reusing the factory locker and go with ARB from the start.
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
yes there is two different housing set ups. if you do the rubi housing (which allows for the factory locker) you have to use a certain arb locker that fits in the rubi housing. PR44 that doesnt use the factory stuff utilizes a bigger stronger arb locker from my understanding and is a different spline count as well.

Gotcha Thanks

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bkac

Caught the Bug
I'm thinking that too.
I signed you for the JKX starting to think what I need to do. Fingers crossed...

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SoK66

Self-Banned
I'm thinking about going to a PR44 unlimited housing vs a fully decked PR44. What problems are associated with the factory front locker? What are the disadvantages of going this route besides having to stay with the factory e-locker? I'm going to run 37s for the next few years.

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None that I know of, other than you're limited to 30 spline axle shafts. (Btw, if you have a rear JK Tru-Loc laying around you can use it in front with custom 32 spline shafts.) With 37s the front locker shouldn't be an issue if you upgrade to chromolys or RCVs, etc. The factory lockers on JKs have been pretty reliable, not a lot of regular failures like we saw with the TJs. The advantage of going to a decked out PR44 wih ARB, RCVs, Reids, Pro Steers, etc. is you can get the thing shipped built as you want it and just stick it in there. I did the TF R44 housing on mine and it went great, just the time & hassle factor of the swap over. I already had Reids, chromolys, Spyntecs, and just figured the swap would be less expensive than going the whole route and then trying to sell the stock housing complete. I got some nice cash for the bare housing, which was sleeved & gusseted, control arm bracket skids & with Pro Steers. That pretty much covered the labor for the install which I had to farm out as I was in recovery from shoulder surgery.

Whatever, the only regret you'll have upgrading the front housing is that you didn't do it sooner, or, maybe that you didn;t just do two crates full of PR60s. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't have put a penny into upgrading the stock JK housing.
 
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bkac

Caught the Bug
I would love 2 PR60s but that will be down the road from now. I really just need something to hold the 37s for the time being.

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My PR44 Unl is done and is being shipped from Northridge 4x4 next week. I went with 4:88s, Reids, RCVs, ARB, weld on TB bracket and LCA skids. I think the ARB is 30 spline.

At some point, I will do a PR60 setup in the rear.

Im sure David at Northridge 4x4 would be happy to walk you thru various options and price out what you would want. Free shipping and no tax.

Good luck with your build.
 
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cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
None that I know of, other than you're limited to 30 spline axle shafts. (Btw, if you have a rear JK Tru-Loc laying around you can use it in front with custom 32 spline shafts.) With 37s the front locker shouldn't be an issue if you upgrade to chromolys or RCVs, etc. The factory lockers on JKs have been pretty reliable, not a lot of regular failures like we saw with the TJs. The advantage of going to a decked out PR44 wih ARB, RCVs, Reids, Pro Steers, etc. is you can get the thing shipped built as you want it and just stick it in there. I did the TF R44 housing on mine and it went great, just the time & hassle factor of the swap over. I already had Reids, chromolys, Spyntecs, and just figured the swap would be less expensive than going the whole route and then trying to sell the stock housing complete. I got some nice cash for the bare housing, which was sleeved & gusseted, control arm bracket skids & with Pro Steers. That pretty much covered the labor for the install which I had to farm out as I was in recovery from shoulder surgery.

Whatever, the only regret you'll have upgrading the front housing is that you didn't do it sooner, or, maybe that you didn;t just do two crates full of PR60s. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't have put a penny into upgrading the stock JK housing.

Are you the new spokes person for teraflex now?
 

jeeeep

Hooked
there is a difference between housings, but when the term larger is used I believe it refers to the R&P thickness. The older D44's (everything else) had thinner gears.

The other difference is the way the carrier is designed - on the stock rubi the carrier is offset so it requires different length axle shafts versus the D44(everything else) version which has same length axle shafts.

As far as ARB lockers, I don't think one is bigger than the other, the difference is whether the carrier is offset or not, the number of splines and which thickness gears they run (seems like you can get a variety of spline counts for either). The thicker gears can be used on the non-Rubi D44 if modified and I believe there are some kits as well.

This is how I understood it when I was buying my PR44, since I had just made an investment in Ten Factory shafts and the stock locker was still good I didn't want to blow the budget (insurance paid for stock and I paid the upgrade difference on the damaged parts).

I may have completely misunderstood all of this in my discussions with Dynatrac but as I concluded, ARB, Eaton and others make the same strong locker for either PR44, just different configuration.


Other than only needing 1 spare shaft with the non-Rubi D44, I guess there might be a strength advantage to equal length shafts. :idontknow:
 
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