Poison Spyder cage install

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mrmike

New member
I just started the real install portion of my PS bolt in cage. Problem #1 arose pretty quickly. They use a metal bar spacer between the a-pilar plate and the door jamb. There is some kind of glue/urethane that the factory used in the body joints. It's built up behind the door jamb and is taking all the needed space up. Anyone have an idea of how to deal with it?

Here is a pic from there instructions. I can't get the plate in all the way.
 
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mrmike

New member
Sharkey said:
No pic?

Post a pic of your door jamb too.
Click to expand...

Sorry, posted on phone and needed to get to a computer to post pic. In doing a quick search online I gather there are two options. Eliminate some of the urethane type material or dremel and grind down the metal structure of the dashboard where it makes contact with the a-pillar plate. In the photo I marked the spacer bar with the arrow.

PSC-INST-TRAILCAGEKIT-JK-BOLT-IN_pdf__page_6_of_12_.jpg
 
Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
The OR Fab cage required compete removal of the horizontal metal fins on the sides of the dash structure. Sounds like you are talking about the same thing. I found the best way to do it was using a hammer and a good metal chisel. I couldn't seem to get a good angle with a dremel or grinder. I used the dremel to make lines in the fin and then used the chisel to connect the lines, if that makes sense.
 
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10frank9

10frank9

Web Wheeler
mrmike said:
Sorry, posted on phone and needed to get to a computer to post pic. In doing a quick search online I gather there are two options. Eliminate some of the urethane type material or dremel and grind down the metal structure of the dashboard where it makes contact with the a-pillar plate. In the photo I marked the spacer bar with the arrow.

View attachment 107012
Click to expand...

That looks almost identical to the Rock Hard 4x4 install. I just finished mine up today. Didn't have any problem getting that block to fit back there. Just drilled through the urethane and fit the plate in.

Is it not seating correctly? Or is the top not bolting up correctly? I had to use some man strength to bend the top inward on both sides to get the holes to line up. :yup:
 
M

mrmike

New member
Sharkey said:
The OR Fab cage required compete removal of the horizontal metal fins on the sides of the dash structure. Sounds like you are talking about the same thing. I found the best way to do it was using a hammer and a good metal chisel. I couldn't seem to get a good angle with a dremel or grinder. I used the dremel to make lines in the fin and then used the chisel to connect the lines, if that makes sense.
Click to expand...

I will look at again tomorrow to see what part it contacts. It sounds like removing metal maybe easier than trying to remove that urethane from behind the sheet metal. Now I know why most people go with the rock hard.
 
M

mrmike

New member
When I put the spacer bar it doesn't sit parallel to the door jamb because of the varying amounts of urethane the factory applied. So the top of the bar is tilted in quite a bit and eats up that valuable space I need.
 
10frank9

10frank9

Web Wheeler
mrmike said:
When I put the spacer bar it doesn't sit parallel to the door jamb because of the varying amounts of urethane the factory applied. So the top of the bar is tilted in quite a bit and eats up that valuable space I need.
Click to expand...

Post a photo when you can...
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
10frank9 said:
That looks almost identical to the Rock Hard 4x4 install. I just finished mine up today. Didn't have any problem getting that block to fit back there. Just drilled through the urethane and fit the plate in.

Is it not seating correctly? Or is the top not bolting up correctly? I had to use some man strength to bend the top inward on both sides to get the holes to line up. :yup:
Click to expand...

It is almost identical to the Rock Hard and I could see how if too much adhesive was applied at this point, it could be difficult to get in. Like you, I had to "bump" mine in. Either way, it may take some effort but it should go in.

10frank9 said:
Here's a photo of the passenger side fitted up.
View attachment 107013
Click to expand...

BTW, if I haven't said it already, that looks sharp :thumb:
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Sharkey said:
The OR Fab cage required compete removal of the horizontal metal fins on the sides of the dash structure. Sounds like you are talking about the same thing. I found the best way to do it was using a hammer and a good metal chisel. I couldn't seem to get a good angle with a dremel or grinder. I used the dremel to make lines in the fin and then used the chisel to connect the lines, if that makes sense.
Click to expand...

Unless I'm missing something, the PS cage is bit more similar to the Rock Hard and I don't think you need to remove those fins do make the installation work like you would need to on an OR-Fab cage. Of course, a photo of this area and seeing what really might be holding things up would be helpful.
 
Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
wayoflife said:
Unless I'm missing something, the PS cage is bit more similar to the Rock Hard and I don't think you need to remove those fins do make the installation work like you would need to on an OR-Fab cage. Of course, a photo of this area and seeing what really might be holding things up would be helpful.
Click to expand...

You should be correct. My comment was more because the OP mentioned in post #3 that he may grind down the metal structure of the dash.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Sharkey said:
You should be correct. My comment was more because the OP mentioned in post #3 that he may grind down the metal structure of the dash.
Click to expand...

Ah, I missed that but, if that's the case, I do wonder if the PS cage has the same issue as the OR-FAB. You would think that if it did, it'd be noted in their instruction though.
 
M

mrmike

New member
Won't be able to take a pic or get a closer look until tonight. But I put a call into PS and they said there are two things going on. First if Jeep was heavy handed on the adhesive then yes I will have to remove it. In theory the block should be right up against the sheet metal. Second, there is a chance you have to grind down the metal too. They said they are looking at reducing the size of the A-Pillar plate because in 50% of the instances there is material that needs to be removed. Seems Jeep has been making changes and its a case by case basis on the install.

Now, how to get that adhesive off...

Tonight I will try a little brute force and see if that will help wedge it.

As for quality of the PS parts, they forgot to thread the holes on the plate where the mounting bolts go in. They did offer to swap me for new a-pillars if I wasn't able to tap it out. I told him I would tap first and if botch the job will ask for replacements. Seemed like good customer service so far.
 
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