Building A Front Axle In Stages?

JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
I'm hoping for some advice, direction. I have an 08 2 door. Last month I was able to get a set of 37,s from a friend. Since my stock tires were just about done, I went ahead and put them on, knowing I would see a decline in power (I have 3.73 gearing). I also knew my front D30 would have to be replaced.

I am now looking for a D44. I'm thinking of something new, maybe a PR44. Here's my question. Can I buy it in stages? Can I purchase the housing, then the rest as money becomes available? If so, can someone give me a list of everything I would have to buy. That would help me start buying the parts I need one paycheck at a time. Or is this not a good plan?

I was told I need 5.13 gearing and a locker.

My rig is not my daily driver.

Thanks for any input.


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jnabird333

jnabird333

-
I would just save and order it complete once you have the money.... This way it is built professionally and ready to bolt in.

Your "Need" for a locker really depends on how you wheel and what you plan to do with your rig.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
hoop said:
I'm hoping for some advice, direction. I have an 08 2 door. Last month I was able to get a set of 37,s from a friend. Since my stock tires were just about done, I went ahead and put them on, knowing I would see a decline in power (I have 3.73 gearing). I also knew my front D30 would have to be replaced.

I am now looking for a D44. I'm thinking of something new, maybe a PR44. Here's my question. Can I buy it in stages? Can I purchase the housing, then the rest as money becomes available? If so, can someone give me a list of everything I would have to buy. That would help me start buying the parts I need one paycheck at a time. Or is this not a good plan?

I was told I need 5.13 gearing and a locker.

My rig is not my daily driver.

Thanks for any input.


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Click to expand...

i would save your money and do the PR44 and gears with rear locker all at once and just have fun with your d30 till it finally fails.

if you want to do it in stages tho yes you can buy just the PR44 housing that reuses the d44 internals and build it up as money allows but i would still suggest going to route i mentioned above.
 
sc_rhino

sc_rhino

Member
Well you have to be careful with your decision to buy the correct housing b/c the elocker housing isn't compatible with a housing that accepts an arb locker.
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
Thanks for the input/advice. So, if I buy the completed axle, it can be bolted on? I'm sure that would save me some cash.

Newb question. If I bought the front 44 complete with new gears and get some help bolting it in, how do I get the rear axle regeared? I know I can't do that on my own, so I would have to take it to a shop. I'm pretty sure u can't have different gears in front and back to drive. So do I tow it?


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OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
hoop said:
Thanks for the input/advice. So, if I buy the completed axle, it can be bolted on? I'm sure that would save me some cash.

Newb question. If I bought the front 44 complete with new gears and get some help bolting it in, how do I get the rear axle regeared? I know I can't do that on my own, so I would have to take it to a shop. I'm pretty sure u can't have different gears in front and back to drive. So do I tow it?


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Click to expand...

Take out your front driveshaft and you can drive it.
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
Also, does anyone have a good price range on the PR44? Complete with 5.13 gears. Am I in the ballpark with 4k?


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OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
You don't need Reid knuckles and you don't need RCV shafts. That'll save you at least $1500. Prosteer balljoint a aren't needed but I would pony up the extra cash for them up front.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
hoop said:
Thanks coz! I'll check it out. Was that with a locker?


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yup. 5.13's, arb, chromoly shafts, dynatrac pro steers, 1310 yoke, reuse stock knuckles. then factor in another $500 +/- or so for a new front driveshaft as well
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
cozdude said:
i would save your money and do the PR44 and gears with rear locker all at once and just have fun with your d30 till it finally fails
Click to expand...

Coz, man I wish I could take it out and have fun until the d30 fails but I'm afraid it will fail on the first trail I hit! Then I'm screwed until I can get the new axle. I'm not too sure the 30 will hold even with going easy!


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hbkid22

hbkid22

Member
Northridge4x4 has a complete PR44 unlimted for around $4500 with gears, locker and master install....I know you are not close to the shop but you could possibly call them up to buy it complete.

Questions - do you have a manual or auto? If you have a manual stick with 4.88 gears otherwise yes on the 5.13.

And yes you can drive after you install the front axle even with different gears. As mentioned you can unhook the front drive shaft or as long as you dont put it in 4wd I believe you can leave it hooked up as long as its a short distance....
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
OverlanderJK said:
You don't need Reid knuckles and you don't need RCV shafts. That'll save you at least $1500. Prosteer balljoint a aren't needed but I would pony up the extra cash for them up front.
Click to expand...

Thanks Overlander! That's good to know. I need to get one ASAP so saving any amount will help.


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hbkid22

hbkid22

Member
hoop said:
Coz, man I wish I could take it out and have fun until the d30 fails but I'm afraid it will fail on the first trail I hit! Then I'm screwed until I can get the new axle. I'm not too sure the 30 will hold even with going easy!


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Click to expand...

Have you put on the c-gussets? You could get away with a few trail runs on 37s if you welded on the c-gussets...You are right it wont last long but you could do a couple runs.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
hbkid22 said:
Northridge4x4 has a complete PR44 unlimted for around $4500 with gears, locker and master install....I know you are not close to the shop but you could possibly call them up to buy it complete.

Questions - do you have a manual or auto? If you have a manual stick with 4.88 gears otherwise yes on the 5.13.

And yes you can drive after you install the front axle even with different gears. As mentioned you can unhook the front drive shaft or as long as you dont put it in 4wd I believe you can leave it hooked up as long as its a short distance....
Click to expand...

Disagree. 5.13's with 37's. 5.38's would be even better but only if he went bigger axles.
 
JK LYF

JK LYF

New member
hbkid22 said:
Northridge4x4 has a complete PR44 unlimted for around $4500 with gears, locker and master install....I know you are not close to the shop but you could possibly call them up to buy it complete.

Questions - do you have a manual or auto? If you have a manual stick with 4.88 gears otherwise yes on the 5.13.

And yes you can drive after you install the front axle even with different gears. As mentioned you can unhook the front drive shaft or as long as you dont put it in 4wd I believe you can leave it hooked up as long as its a short distance....
Click to expand...

The drive to northridge is doable, probably about 70 miles. That's good to know. Heard nothing but good things about them. And yes, I have an auto.


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hbkid22

hbkid22

Member
OverlanderJK said:
Disagree. 5.13's with 37's. 5.38's would be even better but only if he went bigger axles.
Click to expand...

You think its needed though? I only ask because I went to Northridge in Longmont and talked with them about future plans, etc...and mentioned I would want to regear with 5.13s but he noted I had a manually and said I only need 4.88s with 37s and I was planning 5.13s since I also live in CO....
 
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