Sway bar angle and ride quality?
- Thread starter jeramejk
- Start date
jeeeep
Hooked
post a pic of your sway bar,.
all a sway bar does is control body roll when cornering. As mentioned, they have nothing to do with ride stiffness.
Now if you're feeling a bit too much side to side motion when cornering then yes, an incorrect aligned sway bar will make the front to rear body roll behave differently.
The sway bars should be about parallel with the frame, just slightly down angled
all a sway bar does is control body roll when cornering. As mentioned, they have nothing to do with ride stiffness.
Now if you're feeling a bit too much side to side motion when cornering then yes, an incorrect aligned sway bar will make the front to rear body roll behave differently.
The sway bars should be about parallel with the frame, just slightly down angled
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
As already stated, sway bar won't change ride quality. Most likely your coils.
StrizzyChris
New member
as mentioned a few times....the harshness you are feeling, based on how you've described it, is probably related to coil stiffness. EVERYTHING I am about to type is related to your last sentence saying that you are trying to learn about suspensions, and is my feeble attempt to answer your questions
Slight changes in handling, however, can be attributed to you lifting the Jeep which in turn changes the geometry of all of your steering and suspension components. Depending on how high you lift your Jeep, there will be different routes that you can go to correct these changes and return your handling to a closer to stock feel. Examples of this would be adjustable control arms, drag link flip, axle side raised track bar bracket
When you buy a kit, you are truly at the mercy of the manufacturers choice in coil spring rates. This goes for EVERY kit company out there. If you run a crazy heavy Jeep with huge aftermarket rear bumper, carrier, jerry cans full of liquid, heavy spare ire and rim, roof rack and a ton of gear in the back, etc...then a soft coil will probably not be best for your daily or regular uses. The coils that you have sound like they are a heavy spring rate which is causing the(what I will assume to be a) lighter rear of your jeep to ride harsher than your heavier front where the engine rests. The only way to make your Jeep handle "like stock", after lifting and adding heavy aftermarket mods, would be to get a custom coil rate that completely fits your new lift and Jeep weight.........Long story short, you'll have to learn to deal with the new feel OR buy a softer spring rate to make your jeep ride more smoothly!
no. Having stock control arms will keep the ride "harshness" the same as stock. Not having the correct control arm lengths CAN cause drive line vibrations and/or poor handling at higher speeds and/or flighty feeling of the steering wheel .
no. the only thing that effects your "feel" while going around turns at higher speeds is the sway bar itself. If you want your vehicle to ride smooth while going down the road, then you want a softer sway bar. If you want it to corner like a corvette, then you'll want a more firm sway bar. That being said, I have NEVER seen someone buy a heavier or more thin swaybar in a Jeep and usually only is done on larger and heavier vehicles like RV's or trucks used to tow.
This has nothing to do with what you are feeling BUT...Any time you lift a Jeep, you should have it on the ground and at ride eight before you tighten your control arm and track bar bolts. This will assure that there's no binding or stress on the bushings once the Jeep is on the ground.
This is not true. You are driving a sold axle vehicle. Any time you hit a bump going down the road, you will have shifting of the complete axle from right to left(or vice versa) depending on the severity of the bump or pot hole. upwards compression of the entire axle(like going over a speed bump) will shift the entire axle to the passenger side of the Jeep. A hole causing the entire axle to drop will cause the axle to shift to the drivers side of the Jeep. None of this has anything to do with your swaybar links OR coils. In this particular situation your coils will only change the harshness or severity that these changes occur.
Slight changes in handling, however, can be attributed to you lifting the Jeep which in turn changes the geometry of all of your steering and suspension components. Depending on how high you lift your Jeep, there will be different routes that you can go to correct these changes and return your handling to a closer to stock feel. Examples of this would be adjustable control arms, drag link flip, axle side raised track bar bracket
When you buy a kit, you are truly at the mercy of the manufacturers choice in coil spring rates. This goes for EVERY kit company out there. If you run a crazy heavy Jeep with huge aftermarket rear bumper, carrier, jerry cans full of liquid, heavy spare ire and rim, roof rack and a ton of gear in the back, etc...then a soft coil will probably not be best for your daily or regular uses. The coils that you have sound like they are a heavy spring rate which is causing the(what I will assume to be a) lighter rear of your jeep to ride harsher than your heavier front where the engine rests. The only way to make your Jeep handle "like stock", after lifting and adding heavy aftermarket mods, would be to get a custom coil rate that completely fits your new lift and Jeep weight.........Long story short, you'll have to learn to deal with the new feel OR buy a softer spring rate to make your jeep ride more smoothly!
no. Having stock control arms will keep the ride "harshness" the same as stock. Not having the correct control arm lengths CAN cause drive line vibrations and/or poor handling at higher speeds and/or flighty feeling of the steering wheel .
no. the only thing that effects your "feel" while going around turns at higher speeds is the sway bar itself. If you want your vehicle to ride smooth while going down the road, then you want a softer sway bar. If you want it to corner like a corvette, then you'll want a more firm sway bar. That being said, I have NEVER seen someone buy a heavier or more thin swaybar in a Jeep and usually only is done on larger and heavier vehicles like RV's or trucks used to tow.
This has nothing to do with what you are feeling BUT...Any time you lift a Jeep, you should have it on the ground and at ride eight before you tighten your control arm and track bar bolts. This will assure that there's no binding or stress on the bushings once the Jeep is on the ground.
This is not true. You are driving a sold axle vehicle. Any time you hit a bump going down the road, you will have shifting of the complete axle from right to left(or vice versa) depending on the severity of the bump or pot hole. upwards compression of the entire axle(like going over a speed bump) will shift the entire axle to the passenger side of the Jeep. A hole causing the entire axle to drop will cause the axle to shift to the drivers side of the Jeep. None of this has anything to do with your swaybar links OR coils. In this particular situation your coils will only change the harshness or severity that these changes occur.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
If you know it all why come here and ask? We give you an answer and you tell us we are wrong. Why ask?
Wizard
New member
I have Synergy coils and Fox shocks and couldn't be happier with the ride (loaded or empty), but then I have some heavy accessories on mine.
I agree with OJK, in that short links on your swaybar won't effect your ride. The only time they will effect it is if they are so short that they are the first thing which limits down travel, as they ideally shouldn't reach full extension at full suspension droop. Hope that makes sense.
I agree with OJK, in that short links on your swaybar won't effect your ride. The only time they will effect it is if they are so short that they are the first thing which limits down travel, as they ideally shouldn't reach full extension at full suspension droop. Hope that makes sense.
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jeeeep
Hooked
your rear sway looks a little low from the pic angle. On the kits I've installed or help friends install, when they come with sway bar links the new links (longer) go on the rear and the rear stock links go on the front.
you might try removing your rear links and see if what you feel gets better or worse. remember to tie the sway bar up so it doesn't hang loose
you might try removing your rear links and see if what you feel gets better or worse. remember to tie the sway bar up so it doesn't hang loose
Wizard
New member
Any change in ride height will make your Jeep handle differently when cornering, and mine is no different. I have almost twice as much lift as you, and yes it does go around corners differently.
A couple of questions which should be asked.
Did you have a full wheel alignment after your Jeep was lifted? I would think this would be a necessity after having new control arms and track bars fitted. Wrong alignment/steering geometry will make your vehicle do some strange things when hitting bumps and turning corners.
What tyre pressures are you running? This can also be a massive factor in handling and ride.
As I said earlier, check that your swaybar links aren't reaching full extension (ie. arm on swaybar stretched to be completely in line with swaybar link) before full suspension droop is reached.
Also check to see that the swaybar or its links aren't snagging or catching on other parts of the suspension or chassis. Make sure you check both sides. If it is, there will normally be a shiny wear mark or gouge or scratch.
Hope some of this helps.
A couple of questions which should be asked.
Did you have a full wheel alignment after your Jeep was lifted? I would think this would be a necessity after having new control arms and track bars fitted. Wrong alignment/steering geometry will make your vehicle do some strange things when hitting bumps and turning corners.
What tyre pressures are you running? This can also be a massive factor in handling and ride.
As I said earlier, check that your swaybar links aren't reaching full extension (ie. arm on swaybar stretched to be completely in line with swaybar link) before full suspension droop is reached.
Also check to see that the swaybar or its links aren't snagging or catching on other parts of the suspension or chassis. Make sure you check both sides. If it is, there will normally be a shiny wear mark or gouge or scratch.
Hope some of this helps.
Wizard
New member
Here is a photo of my swaybar and link. When you compare the position of the swaybar arm with the track bar mount, then there isn't much in it between the two.
I think that you shouldn't worry too much about the handling untill after the alignment, but do check those lengths to full extension.
I think that you shouldn't worry too much about the handling untill after the alignment, but do check those lengths to full extension.
Yes, I think we all get this. It is you who isn't getting us.
But, unless you are driving over an uneven surface or cornering, the only thing your sway bar will do is move up and down with your axle.
Can't imagine why you'd be curious to know what others think being that you already have all the answers.
They're a firm shock and one designed to help absorb bigger hits when driving faster. Paired with a set of firm coils, the two together will offer a ride that is a bit harsh for my taste. But of course, ride comfort and quality is 100% subjective.
Being that you "know things about suspension", I would have thought that you'd know that it all depends on how tall of a lift you install, what kind of coils your riding on, the components you've replaced and how you have them set.
Respectfully, I don't know how it could be so obvious to you that there are what you consider to be "inaccuracies" in some of the responses when you clearly don't know half as much as you think you do.
For someone who claims to know some things that can have an effect on your ride, I find it odd that you'd need to see what others have experienced.
And I sometimes think that people like you write things off quickly because you don't hear what you want to hear.
No need to wait for new longer links, just remove the links you have installed. :naw:
jeramejk said:
You're the one who "know things about suspension", why not you tell us.
Then I suppose you can tell us how this will effect your ride and handling and why.
It's funny but to me, stock suspension SUCKS and a good lift should typically offer a BIG improvement over stock. I'd wish you luck in figuring out why your ride sucks even more but then, I know you have all the answers :yup:
Do you have adjustable track bars and control arms?
Wizard
New member
I have adjustable lowers front and rear and an adjustable front track bar.
I had an alignment done a while back which was perfect, and my Jeep drove great, however after one outing offroad it became a bit skittish again (not as bad as it originally was). I've now had another alignment done recently and it's driving well again. I just hope it lasts a bit longer, and a few more offroad trips this time. I asked the aligner why it would have gone out of alignment so quick, and he didn't really have an answer, only to say it only took mm's to make a difference. He found the toeout to be wrong this last time around.
Any tips or suggestions? I checked to make sure all the adjusters were tight after the last alignment, but is there something else I should be looking at.
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It is totally normal for bolts to loosen up after an off roading trip and making sure they are tightened to the appropriate torque spec is necessary part of routine maintenance. Also, off roading can cause things like your tie-rod to bend and that WILL change your toe and that can effect the position of your steering wheel and handling as well.
To be clear, you did mean to say "toe-in" and NOT "toe-out", right? Because, that's what it should be set at - IN by about 1/16" (3 to 4 mm).
One suggestion would be to save your money and stop taking your Jeep to an alignment shop. The following link goes to a write-up I've done that will help you to do your own alignment and for FREE.
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
Wizard
New member
Thanks for the link, I've already been reading it, and learnt a lot along the way.
Aligning has been one of those things that I've never been confident enough to do myself. I've never had anyone run through it with me, so have just avoided it. I will run through it now guided by your thread instructions, try and work out just what sort of setting my Jeep is at now.
My last 4by (Nissan Patrol) never needed an alignment in the 15 years I owned it, and to need two alignments on my Jeep in relatively quick succession at $85.00 a pop, was beginning to worry me, thinking there is something I'm missing to cause it to go out of alignment.
Thanks again Eddie. I'll buy you a beer one day, or maybe shout you an American Honey.
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Wizard
New member
No worries. :thumb:
Don't go away mad.....
Ummm, yeah. You're not claiming to know everything and yet, in the same breath, are saying that you "understand suspension as in what each component does and what can cause changes". Of course, I'm just a hypocrite who just hears what I want to hear.
Funny, I could have sworn you just got done saying that you "understand suspension as in what each component does and what can cause changes." :thinking:
You got me there. I definitely missed the part where you said your problem was in "turns and over uneven road". Unfortunately for you, it doesn't change the fact that your sway bar is still just a torsion bar with a set rate. What will make a significant difference in how it feels is in where you mount your links along the arms - closer to the bar, the firmer it will feel. Closer to the end and it will make it feel softer. This is why Currie Anti-Rock arms have multiple settings as it helps the user get a ride they are wanting. But of course, you knew all this already.
:cheesy: You're the one who's leaving with his panties in a bunch but we're somehow the ones who are sensitive - got it.
Please don't let the door hit you in the ass as you leave :standing wave: