Locker Strength?

BumpStick

BumpStick

New member
I have a '12 JK Sport with the automatic and it's just a toy and I have already just removed the sway bars, street driving characteristics are not very important to me. So I was thinking of going with a Detroit Locker in the rear. I already have a Detroit locker that will be installed in the front. In February I'm going to be regearing and have lockers installed. So when it comes to the Detroit locker, ARB, ox, and E 4 locker, which is stronger in the 44?
 
David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
Arbs are better as far as versatility, but Detroits are known for their strength. That's one reason they run detroits in drag cars.

When I had my first locker installed when I was 16, the owner of the shop talked me into a Detroit over an ARB for the single reason of strength. He showed me 2 broken arbs sitting on his shelf waiting to be sent back, and said he had NEVER seen a broken Detroit. I was sold, and have run them in 2 rigs since then.

I had an ARB in my Tj for a short period- had a couple problems with it, and went back to Detroit after the axle swap.


In my opinion, it's nice to not worry about compressors, solenoids, and seals, but for MOST people, ARB is the better choice.
 
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David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
Tanner505 said:
I'm not very familiar with Detroits are they an air locker
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No. They are an automatic (mechanical) locker, but similar to ARB, they replace the whole carrier.

While we're talking about it- lunchbox lockers, such as "lock-rite" and "ez-locker" keep the carrier and only replace the spider gears. That's how you can get an ez locker for $350, and a Detroit runs $650-700
 
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M

MarkW13

New member
I have an ox in my yj (ford 8.8). I'd buy one again, but only the air actuated version. I have the cable actuated and the cable stretched. Lost my rear locker 2/3 of the way through the Dusy Ershim. Fortunately the front e locker kept on going. The air actuated model doesn't use cables and will eliminate that problem.
 
David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
MarkW13 said:
I have an ox in my yj (ford 8.8). I'd buy one again, but only the air actuated version. I have the cable actuated and the cable stretched. Lost my rear locker 2/3 of the way through the Dusy Ershim. Fortunately the front e locker kept on going. The air actuated model doesn't use cables and will eliminate that problem.
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Crazy. I think when ox came out they were marketing it as more reliable than the air actuated ARB. -at least that's what I always heard.. "What can go wrong with a cable?"

Good to know. Thanks!
 
M

MarkW13

New member
David1tontj said:
Crazy. I think when ox came out they were marketing it as more reliable than the air actuated ARB. -at least that's what I always heard.. "What can go wrong with a cable?"

Good to know. Thanks!
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Yeah, I got sucked in on that line. The cable requires precise adjustment or it wont engage. Win some lose some. The external air actuator is about $100. If you buy the locker air actuated its all internal.
 
David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
[QU OTE=MarkW13;415810]Yeah, I got sucked in on that line. The cable requires precise adjustment or it wont engage. Win some lose some. The external air actuator is about $100. If you buy the locker air actuated its all internal.[/QUOTE]
how much for a little shifter knob that mounts right in the top of the diff?!! Haha. That's the only way to eliminate all those variables- direct linkage!
 
M

MarkW13

New member
David1tontj said:
[QU OTE=MarkW13;415810]Yeah, I got sucked in on that line. The cable requires precise adjustment or it wont engage. Win some lose some. The external air actuator is about $100. If you buy the locker air actuated its all internal.
Click to expand...
how much for a little shifter knob that mounts right in the top of the diff?!! Haha. That's the only way to eliminate all those variables- direct linkage![/QUOTE]

The cable and shift lever are not cheap. $150 for both (estimate). I have since readjusted the shifter, but its just one more thing to check.
 
David1tontj

David1tontj

New member
MarkW13 said:
how much for a little shifter knob that mounts right in the top of the diff?!! Haha. That's the only way to eliminate all those variables- direct linkage!
Click to expand...

The cable and shift lever are not cheap. $150 for both (estimate). I have since readjusted the shifter, but its just one more thing to check.[/QUOTE]

Yeah- I was making a dumb joke about having the shifter mounted on the axle itself. (To eliminate cable stretching) 😬
 
M

MarkW13

New member
David1tontj said:
The cable and shift lever are not cheap. $150 for both (estimate). I have since readjusted the shifter, but its just one more thing to check.
Click to expand...

Yeah- I was making a dumb joke about having the shifter mounted on the axle itself. (To eliminate cable stretching) 😬[/QUOTE]

My bad
 
BumpStick

BumpStick

New member
Has anyone heard of automatic lockers messing with the 5spd autos in the JKs? Someone said that when installed in the rear an automatic locker does something with the wheel speed sensors making the Jeep go into limp mode.
 
M

MarkW13

New member
BumpStick said:
Has anyone heard of automatic lockers messing with the 5spd autos in the JKs? Someone said that when installed in the rear an automatic locker does something with the wheel speed sensors making the Jeep go into limp mode.
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I assume you are talking about a limited slip? I'm sure you'd have to reprogram the computer with a procal if it wasn't factory installed. These newer cars are very touchy like that.

Update. I can't find a reference in the pro cal guide for this function.
 
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