Pr44 questions

Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
So I'm gonna order a pr44 unlimited here in February when I do my taxes and my question is should I get just a bare housing and swap my factory internals over or hold out for rcv shafts and a arb or e locker, northridge4x4 has a factory swap deal that comes with synergy ball joints and factory replacement rcv shafts is it worth getting that kit or going factory internals and save for a 35 spline rcv shafts and a arb
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Tanner505 said:
So I'm gonna order a pr44 unlimited here in February when I do my taxes and my question is should I get just a bare housing and swap my factory internals over or hold out for rcv shafts and a arb or e locker, northridge4x4 has a factory swap deal that comes with synergy ball joints and factory replacement rcv shafts is it worth getting that kit or going factory internals and save for a 35 spline rcv shafts and a arb
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I personally would skip the rcv shafts and do some chromoly's with full circle clips. It's cheaper and also just as strong as the rcv's.

As far as what housing/locker to go with, I would skip the factory housing and go with the ARB one.

Ball joint wise dynatrac pro steers are rebuildable and the strongest. If you can't afford them then the mopar or synergy will work. It's just a matter of cost at that point.

When your pricing it out give Dynatrac a call and get a quote from them directly or go on ore's website and build from there. Both have wayyyy more options than Northridge and in some situations cost less as well. Ore is where I got my pr44 from with the internals I wanted and at a cheaper cost.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I'd have to agree. If budget is a concern, skip the RCV's and just get a standard set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips, that will save you about $400. Take the money you save and forward it toward a set of ProSteer ball joints. If you can afford to get an ARB, that's what I would go with. You don't need it or the shafts to be 35 spline. If that's ends up being too much and you have factory Rubicon axle to swap parts out of, that will save you a bundle too. If you need to save even more money, you can get a set of Crown HD ball joints for less than Synergy and they are the exact same ball joint. Either way, you have options and you should explore some before pulling the trigger.
 
Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
Thanks guys il read around more, is there really a huge strength difference between the factory spline count versus the 35
 
Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
wayoflife said:
I'd have to agree. If budget is a concern, skip the RCV's and just get a standard set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips, that will save you about $400. Take the money you save and forward it toward a set of ProSteer ball joints. If you can afford to get an ARB, that's what I would go with. You don't need it or the shafts to be 35 spline. If that's ends up being too much and you have factory Rubicon axle to swap parts out of, that will save you a bundle too. If you need to save even more money, you can get a set of Crown HD ball joints for less than Synergy and they are the exact same ball joint. Either way, you have options and you should explore some before pulling the trigger.
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Hey Eddie, do you know what the difference between the regular pr44 unlimited is and the pr44 extreme duty unlimited
 
nmwranglerx

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
Hey Tanner. I see you are also in Albuquerque like me. If you are planning to install the PR44 yourself, let me know...I could lend a hand if my work schedule isn't too crazy. Last year I swapped out my rear axle in my driveway with hand tools....wasn't too bad. Also, I think the difference between the pro rock's is that the extreme has thicker tubes (1/2 inch i think).
 
Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
nmwranglerx said:
Hey Tanner. I see you are also in Albuquerque like me. If you are planning to install the PR44 yourself, let me know...I could lend a hand if my work schedule isn't too crazy. Last year I swapped out my rear axle in my driveway with hand tools....wasn't too bad. Also, I think the difference between the pro rock's is that the extreme has thicker tubes (1/2 inch i think).
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Alright sweet thanks dude, I'm still a little ways out on ordering it, but il take you up on then offer when I get it :)
 
BadApple

BadApple

New member
Not trying to hijack your thread just didn't see a reason to make another pr44 question thread. I'm in the process of ordering my pr44 and am torn I'm trying to keep cost as low as possible without going to an open carrier. I know, why not just save up the money and go ARB and RCVs? One because I dont have the money right this second and two i made a deal with my wife to keep cost as low as possible so we can also upgrade wheels and tires and third I DO NOT WANT RCVs lol. So I had one priced through Dynatrac and its a really good price but can anyone tell me the pros and cons of going Detroit Truetrac vs going to a Detroit locker?
 
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13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Do you drive on the road a lot? If so the trutrac limited slip would likely be much better choice vs the Detroit locker.

Sent from my SM-G900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
BadApple

BadApple

New member
It doesnt get driven a ton but it does get driven. I dont wanna regret not going to the locker though the trutrac is just a limited slip
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
BadApple said:
Not trying to hijack your thread just didn't see a reason to make another pr44 question thread. I'm in the process of ordering my pr44 and am torn I'm trying to keep cost as low as possible without going to an open carrier. I know, why not just save up the money and go ARB and RCVs? One because I dont have the money right this second and two i made a deal with my wife to keep cost as low as possible so we can also upgrade wheels and tires and third I DO NOT WANT RCVs lol. So I had one priced through Dynatrac and its a really good price but can anyone tell me the pros and cons of going Detroit Truetrac vs going to a Detroit locker?
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IMO the Detroit locker is a horrible daily driver option. It's a self-engaging locker and for trail use it's good but on road you will feel it when turning and at times depending on the conditions, it'll engage in a turn.

They tend to be noisy...well the one I had was and the one my neighbor got in his truck which was a newer DLocker - also noisy.

Why not get an e-locker or ARB?

personally I'm not a fan of RCV's on axles smaller than a 60 and even then, I would likely go with something like Ten Factory or Alloy USA. I don't like the idea of moving the point of failure to the carrier, I'd rather have a u-joint or axle shaft fail, they are cheaper to replace.
 
BadApple

BadApple

New member
Cause i do not have the money right now but i really need this axle im not wasting money on foxong a broken d30 or upgrading to a rubi 44 which isnt much better than a 30. Only difference is r&p not worth it to me
 
Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
BadApple said:
Cause i do not have the money right now but i really need this axle im not wasting money on foxong a broken d30 or upgrading to a rubi 44 which isnt much better than a 30. Only difference is r&p not worth it to me
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If you can't do a locker then look for factory Rubicon internals and get the factory house style pr44 or save and do it the way you want, I plan I going all out on,mine when I have the funds to do it
 
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