Jumped to 35s finally

Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
First off happy New Years, may the year bring us all some
Good fortune and be filled with times we will never forget.

So I finally made the jump from my 275s so 32s to 35s. Clearance wise I'm not worried since I'll be swapping out my 2.5 plus 2"tummy tuck for a 4 inch emu soon enough this spring. My question was should I upgrade anything up front or in the back in terms of steering/stabilization components. I'd rather get a little list going so I know what carries a little more importance. Just for a frame of reference I went from 32 duratracs to 35 kev mtr's on my 07. I was planing to do sleeves and gussets up front but not sure what I should be doing.
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

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Congrats on getting bigger tires. So let's start the list.

Since you are going above 3 inches the couple of things will be a front drive shaft and drag link flip. There are several out there but I believe the EVO Drag Link Flip does not require welding. As for the drive shaft look at a 1310 0r 1350 depending on whet your future build plans are. While you have the springs off this would be a great time to gusset the inner c's for added strength. As for sleeving the front axle, you can but I would save for upgrading to a PR44 or PR60.

On the rear axle I would look at getting the EVO Rear track bar relocation bracket. I have seen the Pro-Comp and Rancho brackets and to a big fan. The EVO bracket is beefy.

Another option is to get longer brake lines. I chose to get the Crown Performance 4-6 braided lines. To me it was worth the extra $150 to know I will not have to change them when I finally upgrade to coilovers.

What wheels are you using? Check the back spacing. You will need a minimum of 4.5 inches to keep the tires from rubbing. If you do not have the required backspacing you can always use spacers. I have 1.5 in spyder track spacers and love how it made Canvas' stance a little wider.

R/
Will
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
The drive shaft was on my list. I'll look into the rear track at bracket. And the drag link flip!

One question is there anything you guys can recommend in terms of from steering components? Or will the stock components do fine for the time being. I am a student so first on my list is the c's gussets and sleeves. A pr44 is a little ways away. Engineering school and only working and designing parts part time barely covers my jeep addiction.
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

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Mitrig said:
The drive shaft was on my list. I'll look into the rear track at bracket. And the drag link flip!

One question is there anything you guys can recommend in terms of from steering components? Or will the stock components do fine for the time being. I am a student so first on my list is the c's gussets and sleeves. A pr44 is a little ways away. Engineering school and only working and designing parts part time barely covers my jeep addiction.
Click to expand...

I have 35x12.5x17 Nitto Trail Grapplers and I am running the stock steering stabilizer. Do not waste your money.as far as the sleeving goes I would not simply because it will not add anything extra to the axle. The amount of time and money to put the sleeves in would be better served re-gearing your axles. Depending on what gears you have your performance is going to go down. I am going to re-gear the coming year and have not decided on 5.13's or 4.88's. What gears do currently have? If you have 3.21 you will need a new carrier (AKA Spider gears, what the ring is mounted too)

Give it time and you will get there. Enjoy college.

Do you have a 2 or 4 door? If you have a 2 door you will need a rear drive shaft as well. 4 inches puts too much angle on the read drive shaft.

R/
Will
 
Bacon

Bacon

Member
Stock components will be fine. They may bend/break/wear out under heavy wheeling but you can upgrade as you go along. No need to replace it all right away. You will wear out your ball joints quicker with the bigger meats and your tie rod will likely bend while wheeling.
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
Canvas JK said:
I have 35x12.5x17 Nitto Trail Grapplers and I am running the stock steering stabilizer. Do not waste your money.as far as the sleeving goes I would not simply because it will not add anything extra to the axle. The amount of time and money to put the sleeves in would be better served re-gearing your axles. Depending on what gears you have your performance is going to go down. I am going to re-gear the coming year and have not decided on 5.13's or 4.88's. What gears do currently have? If you have 3.21 you will need a new carrier (AKA Spider gears, what the ring is mounted too)

Give it time and you will get there. Enjoy college.

Do you have a 2 or 4 door? If you have a 2 door you will need a rear drive shaft as well. 4 inches puts too much angle on the read drive shaft.

R/
Will
Click to expand...

Thanks will! I am almost done my engineering degree thankfully! Them law school unfortunately so let the lack of money continue.

I also have a 4 door. And currently running 4.10 gears. But planing to switch to 4.88 when I have the money
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

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Mitrig said:
Thanks will! I am almost done my engineering degree thankfully! Them law school unfortunately so let the lack of money continue.

I also have a 4 door. And currently running 4.10 gears. But planing to switch to 4.88 when I have the money
Click to expand...

Do you have a manual or automatic?

If you have a manual you should be good with he 4.10's for a while.

Follow this link to the gears section and you will see a chart that will help guide you in the right direction.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?...s-Every-Newbie-has-about-the-Jeep-JK-Wrangler

Law School, really. Just kidding good luck.

R/
Will
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
Yea I will be writing my lsats the week before graduation. Taking my LSAT prep course next month :( so even more money goes by by. Thankfully I got a lot of my mods set for this month.

Also I drive an auto.
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
Canvas JK said:
You know if you update your profile I would not have to ask so many questions 😉
Click to expand...
Well I did a lot of my mods over this past year. Loved the help on the forum, and the write ups. You guys rock! I can't imagine all how much harder all this would have been without everyone. Trying to learn and teach my buddies who are new to the jeep life.

I'll update it all now finally. And I'll put in the mods which will be going on in the next week or so aswell.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Why would you go to a 4" lift for 35's? If your on a budget don't waste your money on a 4" lift. Keep the 2.5, it is more then enough.
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Why would you go to a 4" lift for 35's? If your on a budget don't waste your money on a 4" lift. Keep the 2.5, it is more then enough.
Click to expand...

The 4 inch old man emu is my goal suspension. I know it's a lot of lift. But I do a lot of trans province up north. Different kind of wheeling compared to central and southern USA. Northern Canada, closer to the territories my 2.5 and 2 body does perfect but I'd rather do 4 coil and just jeep a light tummy tuck to clear the second gas tank. We don't really have the same terrain as you guys, I go down south once or twice a year and my old setup did fine. Rather run soemthing I know will work and give me enough to handle my wheeling conditions. I know it's not a common setup but when I had just the 2.5 it was like a rolling plow at points.

I appreciate the input
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
I understand the terrain but if money is an issue there is no point in the 4" right now. It'll end up costing you a lot.
 
2Cross

2Cross

Caught the Bug
If $ is tight. I'd trim the fenders and put 35s on. Like what was said before. Replace stuff as it breaks or wears out. My sons JK has 35s with no lift. Just trimmed the fenders and rock rails. Still has 4.10 gears with automatic.

I run 2.5" lift with trimmed fenders and 37s. 4.88 gears with PR 44/60.

Low COG (center of gravity) is where it's at.

We've ran the Rubicon and all over Moab and Colorado without issue. Just have to be a good driver.
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
I second Overlander, I wouldn't lift it that high. I mean it's your rig so more power to you if you want. Just if you are trying to save money stick with the 2.5". I ran that with 35s the whole time. Even on 37s I'm a hair under 4" too keep the cg as low as possible. When you say terrain is different totally understand. You just want the extra lift to get the body/frame higher off ground?

As for steering, your stock stabilizer is fine. And even your tie rod is fine, you may end up bending it if you hit it on things then upgrade if you do. You will definitely want to upgrade ball joints when they go bad. Doesn't take long on bigger tires. If you stay at 2.5" you won't have to do anything else. If you go to 4" you should start looking into drag link flip/high steer along with trackbar raising front and rear. Driveshaft, Brakelines, front control arms for castor, Etc.

My jump from 2.5" to 4" was very expensive not counting the coilovers for all the other parts.

Sent from my SM-G900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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Zstairlessone

Zstairlessone

New member
Did you trim your pinch seam? I have 34s and it's really tight. I imagine with 35s (depending on the manufacturer) you may have contact.
 
Mitrig

Mitrig

New member
I know once you reach that height it becomes expensive that is why I am
Waiting till graduation before making such a decision.

Pinch seam and rock rails will the trimmed once the rails are mounted. I have a lot to still add on from my
List so one thing at a time. :( wish I my garage was taller i have to really struggle to get it in. Plus it's like -10
Outside 247 during the day so I can only so one thing at a time indoors
 
rodgerdathug

rodgerdathug

New member
Kind of skimming over so don't know if this was mentioned but what I've heard was goin 35 should look into doing c support bracket. And really anything else isn't need is steering stabilizer
 
noroad

noroad

New member
Sooo I wheel in the north and all i can add is you know real clearance comes from tires right? Maybe some better line choices as well. 4inch is a ton for 35s.
 
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