Front Axle Upgrade Questions

I've been reading about front axle breakage risks with stock parts.
I have a 2014 2Dr. Rubicon, and live and wheel in the Las Vegas, NV area. Also plan to travel to other areas to explore! I climb as carefully as possible, light throttle, but can get into tight spots. Oops! Lots/all rocks, some very loose, some small ledges, all steep. Lockers on for short periods on steep climbs once or twice per ride, mostly try with rear first if slips without, but use front if needed also, and often do. Try to keep straight when using them. And unlock both as soon as not needed. The sway bar is disconnected often also.
I have the 4.10 diffs, currently still using the stock 32" 255/75-17 KM's. Planning to switch to 285/70 KM2's, on the stock wheels, no spacers, when these wear out, probably by the end of the year. I run 18# off-road. Will not be lifting, unless I need a puck on the front to clear tires. Plan to add Evo Protek system soon, to protect oil pan and Auto transmission.
I wheel every time I go out, only use it for off road, have a car for paved roads...12,000 miles in a year and a half. This rate will go up soon also.
So, should I definitely upgrade the front axle parts? Ball joints and gussets for the C's? Chromoly axle shafts, inner and outer with U-Joints?
Brand names of recommended parts would be great. Are the included U-Joints fine? Need to swap out U-Joints every couple of years too? Or not that often?
Better to replace before it breaks, is my thinking.
I tackle rough stuff very slowly, so don't think I need trusses/sleeves for the axle.
Is the rear considered strong enough without new axles?
Thanks for the input.

Anything under 37" on the Rubicon Axle, the standard response here is wheel it till you break it and the swap it, Stock diffs are weaker than almost all aftermaket ones but with those size tires, you probably will have to drive it like you stole it to break it, or maybe a one in a million situation...

Followup Questions

I read somewhere, but cannot find it now, that the knuckle C's where made stronger, and maybe the axle shafts, in 2013. I know that the Dynatrac Prosteer ball joints are a different part #/ lower profile now for more clearance.
Are the knuckle weld on braces still needed to prevent bending on a 2014?
Are the C clips still a concern on the axle shafts?

Harleydav91 said:

I read somewhere, but cannot find it now, that the knuckle C's where made stronger, and maybe the axle shafts, in 2013. I know that the Dynatrac Prosteer ball joints are a different part #/ lower profile now for more clearance.
Are the knuckle weld on braces still needed to prevent bending on a 2014?
Are the C clips still a concern on the axle shafts?

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yes and yes. the knuckles are no stronger than previous years so its a good idea to weld some C gussets on. EVO has some that are only $60 so its a really good investment.

For the axle shafts you can tack weld the caps in place if your worried about the c clips or if you upgrade shafts make sure the chromoly shafts you get have full circle clips.

jorgelrod said:

Anything under 37" on the Rubicon Axle, the standard response here is wheel it till you break it and the swap it, Stock diffs are weaker than almost all aftermaket ones but with those size tires, you probably will have to drive it like you stole it to break it, or maybe a one in a million situation...

Click to expand...

It depends on what part of the "diff" you are talking about. It's true the factory locker is weaker than some aftermarket ones but the R&P are fine and are the same you would get for any D44 aftermarket or otherwise.

The real weakness on all JKs is from the housing itself (all of it).

Harleydav91 said:

So, should I definitely upgrade the front axle parts? Ball joints and gussets for the C's? Chromoly axle shafts, inner and outer with U-Joints?
Brand names of recommended parts would be great. Are the included U-Joints fine? Need to swap out U-Joints every couple of years too? Or not that often?
Better to replace before it breaks, is my thinking.
I tackle rough stuff very slowly, so don't think I need trusses/sleeves for the axle.
Is the rear considered strong enough without new axles?
Thanks for the input.

Click to expand...

If you think you'll be sticking with 285/70R17 (about the size of an advertised 35" tire), you'll want something like EVO gussets installed but that's about it. Worry about your ball joints once they go bad. The 13 shafts do have stronger yokes but still use c-clips but I would still run them as it until they break. Once they do, a standard set of chromoly shafts of any make is what I would get so long as they come with full circle clips. I believe that G2 gold shafts are made by Foote and they are here in the USA. You'll be fine with your rear as is.

Have to throw in my :twocents: here. Mostly for $ reasons I've had to run my 2012 JKUR stock and from the description of how you handle off road, we are similar. I've put 41K miles on my rig in AZ and CO with no worries. C-gussets and call it a day.:thumb:

Sounds good. Can EVO C gussets be installed without damaging the stock ball joints? I understand that they have a plastic part inside. Would they have to be removed and reinstalled when cooled?

Harleydav91 said:

Sounds good. Can EVO C gussets be installed without damaging the stock ball joints? I understand that they have a plastic part inside. Would they have to be removed and reinstalled when cooled?

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With the proper technique it can be done with little to no damage. Your stock ball joints won't last that long anyways so if you take your time and weld in small increments while cooling the welds with a cold rag on between they will work fine. you'll be replacing your ball joint soon anyways more than likely.

I'm assuming that they are being welded on without removing the hubs or axles, any problems with heat damaging the axle seals?

Harleydav91 said:

I'm assuming that they are being welded on without removing the hubs or axles, any problems with heat damaging the axle seals?

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Yep, just remove the wheel and like I said, take your time and do small amounts at a time, maybe 1/4" to 1/2" bead then let it cool with a damp rag, the slower you go the better off you are not to melt the plastic. Many people on here have done it this way with no problems.