Rear axel shaft

JeepinLife

Caught the Bug
Just want to confirm that there is no clip on a left rear axel shaft. Or any need to crack open the diff to take the shaft out. Thanks!
 

M_Savage

Caught the Bug
yes i would definitely recommend a puller or a slide hammer. especially if they have never been removed.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Should the race come off of the new bearing? Or can I press on the bearing all together and then install the shaft? The new bearing doesn't seem to come apart

Come off the new bearing? Are you using a new race or the factory one? You shouldn't need to take the bearing apart.
 

OJK12

New member
If you don't have a puller and have a welder you can spray anti-splatter in the tube, put a pig mat inside the tube and run a heavy bead of weld on the race make sure to get it hot and once it cools you can just pull it out with your fingers.
 

JeepinLife

Caught the Bug
If you don't have a puller and have a welder you can spray anti-splatter in the tube, put a pig mat inside the tube and run a heavy bead of weld on the race make sure to get it hot and once it cools you can just pull it out with your fingers.

The race is out of the axel tube. Do you just slide the new seal on then press the bearing and retainer on as far as they will go? Or is there a specific spot the bearing should sit on the shaft
 

Jeep10

New member
Rear Shaft Bearings

When I replaced mine, I also replaced the shafts...but with everything I read up to that point, getting the old bearings and retaining ring off the old shaft can be a bit of a challenge. Heat should work well, but most folks state they snap the olds parts in two with a hammer and chisel. This is a bit risky if you miss and hit the shaft. suggest trying the heat method first.
When I pulled my old axle out, the inner race stayed in the housing. With a slide hammer, it didn't take much to really pull it out of the axle tube. The new bearing was still in one piece. This is normal and correct. Once the rollers wear into the out race over time, it too will split into two pieces.
I used a 12ton press to get everything onto the axle, but is a tight fit and will require perfection for being pressed straight. Pre-grease the seal and slide it on. Then press the bearing on till it stops at the shoulder on the shaft. Then Press the retaining ring on. Make sure the retaining ring starts straight and presses straight or you probably will not get it on. I have also heard folks with large presses, and not pressing straight, causing the new ring to split...and not showing up until later on the road. Once on, if you made a mistake, you will probably have to order all new parts again and start over. Pay close to the orientation of how things came off and ensure the new stuff goes on in the same order and orientation. Just for my own piece of mind, I took measurements of everything, and compared to the new to ensure I ended up exactly the same.

I am not saying my way is the best, just saying this is what I did on mine and it worked well. I do have a bit of experience with high speed manufacturing equipment, but had never seen bearings being held onto shafts in this manner. Although I don't like it necessarily, I can't complain about what seems to be working well.
 

OJK12

New member
The bearing just goes on until it bottoms out on the shaft shoulder (a press is what we used with an old bearing against the new one) the only thing to be careful of is if you don't have the tone rings on the new shaft cause they have a specific place they sit. They don't sit against the flange, there is a certain distance between them. If you had to remove it check it out because they bend super easy and it can be hard to notice by the naked eye. We used a lathe to spin it to check it for straightness. Everything else is pretty straight forward
 

Jeep10

New member
very good advise. I forgot about those rings. They have to be the right direction and located to the right place.
 
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