Brake caliper seizing/sticking?

I installed the Dynatrac ProGrip brake kit a few weeks ago. The kit has been working great since I installed it and I was able to bed the pads a few days ago. Over the time that I've had it installed I've noticed an odor coming from the forward passenger's side wheel. I figured it was just part of braking-in the pads. Today I drove around town taking care of a few errands (about 14 total miles) and I noticed that wheel's brake seemed like it was not fully releasing when I let off the brake pedal. Within a half mile from home I started to notice brake fade which I haven't had happen since I was in Moab 3 years ago.

When I got home, I decided to spray the salt off of the Jeep and steam billowed out from only the forward passenger's side wheel each time I sprayed it. So I finished spraying off the Jeep's undercarriage. About ten minutes later I sprayed that wheel and it billowed steam again. So I let things cool for and hour and removed the wheel. Here is what I found:




When I removed the caliper it was very tight but came off with a little force and some wiggling.

Here are a few more pictures including the pads:









I was able to compress the caliper's piston with a C-clamp and a board across the piston to make sure I compressed it evenly. It didn't seemed bound, but I didn't remove the dust boot (for fear of ripping it) to see if the piston was scored or corroded.

Here's a picture after I compressed the piston back into the caliper and turned the rotor to expose where the pad had been engaging it when I stopped the Jeep earlier:



Everything is re-assembled and the Jeep is back on the ground. I'm just not sure if its drive-able or not.

Any thoughts?

I'm planning on buying new OEM calipers for both sides to make sure this doesn't happen again. I think the pads and rotors are fine, but I'm looking for some advice.

Thanks in advance guys.
-Matt

Call dynatrac on that dude

wow, they rusted fast

are those the Dynatrac pads? looks like it fused to the rotor. I'd call Dynatrac.

A piston kit is only about $20 and less for just the seals

Thanks guys.

I was planning to call Dynatrac tomorrow once they open to see if they think he pads and rotor are still good to use.

This is no way due to their kit. I'm sure it has to be a function of the caliper, but I wanted to see what everyone else thought based on the pictures.

I got great technical assistance from Collin at Dynatrac tonight. I have a few things to look at tomorrow when I get the Jeep back in the garage. It's sitting outside right now because I didn't drive today. Luckily the kids had school cancelled due to the latest snow storm so I took my wife car to work.
Sad because I love driving the Jeep in the snow.

Based on Collin's advice I have a few checks to do before I replace the caliper.

I'll be checking to make sure the rotor is true all the way around:
- Make sure there is no dip around the circumference of where the pad appears to have burnt onto the rotor's face.
- Verify that the both faces of the rotor are still parallel and not gouged.
If either of these checks fail I will need to get the rotor turned.

Verify if the rotor is warped or not:
- Check the face of the rotor with a straight edge while turn the rotor to see if the straight edge is deflected.
- if I'm able to re-install everything, I will be able to feel any warping if the brake pedal feels like it is being deflected while braking.
If the rotor is warped, I'll be buying a new one from Dynatrac.

I'll also deglaze the pads before I re-install them.

We'll see how things come out. My new calipers should be here tomorrow. I plan to start to work once I get home from work. I post up what I find, success or otherwise.

-Matt

pick up some NAPA Sil-Glyde Silicone to apply on the caliper parts that make contact with rubber components, this will keep the rubber parts from swelling.

Also use it on the pins, - it's better than standard brake grease.

jeeeep said:

pick up some NAPA Sil-Glyde Silicone to apply on the caliper parts that make contact with rubber components, this will keep the rubber parts from swelling.

Also use it on the pins, - it's better than standard brake grease.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I haven't used Sil-Glyde since I rebuilt the calipers about 10 years ago. I'll have to dig it out of the cabinet. I'm pretty sure the stuff I have is in a blue aerosol can. I saw it at NAPA in tubes too a few years ago. I used it on the piston O-rings and the dust boot for the piston. I normally use anti-seize on the pad backs to help prevent any brake squealing. I used Sweepco 101 Moly grease on the pins because I thought it was the best grease out there. I'll see how its held up over the past three weeks on the pins and if it seems to suspect, I'll clean it up and use the Sil-Glyde.

After I replace the calipers, I will attempt to rebuild the bad one when I have time (pending any significant scoring on the piston that may be present once I pop it out). The rebuild kit will be here today as well. I'll post that process up in a different write-up. It's been a few years, but it's pretty easy to do.

interested to see what you find as the cause when you rebuild

MattAlpha said:

I installed the Dynatrac ProGrip brake kit a few weeks ago. The kit has been working great since I installed it and I was able to bed the pads a few days ago. Over the time that I've had it installed I've noticed an odor coming from the forward passenger's side wheel. I figured it was just part of braking-in the pads. Today I drove around town taking care of a few errands (about 14 total miles) and I noticed that wheel's brake seemed like it was not fully releasing when I let off the brake pedal. Within a half mile from home I started to notice brake fade which I haven't had happen since I was in Moab 3 years ago.

When I got home, I decided to spray the salt off of the Jeep and steam billowed out from only the forward passenger's side wheel each time I sprayed it. So I finished spraying off the Jeep's undercarriage. About ten minutes later I sprayed that wheel and it billowed steam again. So I let things cool for and hour and removed the wheel. Here is what I found:
View attachment 123334

View attachment 123335

When I removed the caliper it was very tight but came off with a little force and some wiggling.

Here are a few more pictures including the pads:

View attachment 123336

View attachment 123337

View attachment 123338

View attachment 123339

I was able to compress the caliper's piston with a C-clamp and a board across the piston to make sure I compressed it evenly. It didn't seemed bound, but I didn't remove the dust boot (for fear of ripping it) to see if the piston was scored or corroded.

Here's a picture after I compressed the piston back into the caliper and turned the rotor to expose where the pad had been engaging it when I stopped the Jeep earlier:

View attachment 123340

Everything is re-assembled and the Jeep is back on the ground. I'm just not sure if its drive-able or not.

Any thoughts?

I'm planning on buying new OEM calipers for both sides to make sure this doesn't happen again. I think the pads and rotors are fine, but I'm looking for some advice.

Thanks in advance guys.
-Matt

Click to expand...

Them are great pics!
I would replace the calipers and pads. Make sure that the Rotor is not warped and free of bluing hot spots!
Make the repair right the first time, so you don't have to do it a second time!:thumb:

Thanks for the replies guys.

I followed the guidance that Collin from Dynatrac gave me. Based on the procedures he gave me, I was able to determine the rotor wasn't warped or gouged so that I could re-use it. I was also able to remove the glazing on the pads so I could re-use them too. Overall I feel very lucky.

Here's what I did.

Brought the Jeep into the garage after clearing off most of the snow/ice.


Passenger side brakes before picture:


It was painful to get the caliper off even though I only applied the brakes lightly a couple of times to get the Jeep into the garage. I verified there was no scoring or grooves in both faces of the rotor. I then used a straight edge (credit card...not the best thing but I found it effective) while I rotated the rotor to see if the face is flat. You can see the corrosion building up on the card's edge.

As far as I could tell both faces are parallel and not warped. I'll know for sure when I'm driving it for a few days.

I then removed the glaze from the pads using 100 grit sand paper in a circular motion. I had to dump the grit off the sand paper a few times until the glazing was completely removed.


Pads before picture:


Pads after:


I then cleaned the pad clips in the bracket, re-applied anti-seize to the clips and re-installed the pads.


Next I replaced the caliper making sure to keep the brake line elevated to help prevent brake fluid loss and air getting into the brake lines. Here is everything back together:


I used my brake bleeder to get the air out of the caliper, then I used a few presses of the brake pedal to push the piston out to the right amount.


After the tire was back on I switched to the drivers side. Here's the drivers side before shot with the old caliper:

Notice the coatings on the Dynatrac kit components have held up nicely when they are not drastically overheated.

I replaced the caliper (leaving the pads and everything else alone), used the bleeder and the pushed the piston out with the brake pedal. After shot:


Once the tire was back on and the Jeep was on the ground, I bleed the brakes using the pedal method. My wife was happy to help, probably because she knew that I was almost done and the Jeep would work again. I only bleed the front brakes (passenger then to the drivers side).

I finished the work about an hour ago. Everything feels good now with the brakes.

Just a note, if you order OEM replacement calipers from MOPAR, they do not come with the copper crush washers for the brake line's banjo. I had to make a stop at NAPA and luckily they had them in what seemed to be their lucky bin of miscellaneous crush washers and bleeder valves.

When I have time, I'll open up the bad caliper and re-build it. I'll make sure to post that up when I do. I have the rebuild kit, but it's getting late and I still need to finish my mud flap project at some point.

-Matt

nice!
get that old caliper rebuilt soon, curious to find out what caused it to fail lol

I've have the Dynatrac on order and hopefully be getting it soon, I've thought about getting new calipers and getting them powder coated just because I have nothing better to do :cheesy:

Jeeep this update is for you.

I had a few minutes to remove the piston from the caliper, not rebuild it though.

I used air from my onboard compressor to force the piston out of the caliper. I used a hockey puck to prevent the piston from becoming a projectile.


Piston "popped" out.


Here are a few pics of the piston.





You can see two wear-rings that extend most of the way around the piston.

Here the inside of the caliper's body.


After wiping it.

Obviously I need to clean the body of the caliper and finish dissembling it before fully cleaning the caliper. After I've done that, I'll paint it then re-build it to be a ready spare.

thanks for the pics, looks like the piston was sticking based on the crud along the edge.

I used to have this issue when I lived in winter/salting area.

I would end up taking them apart and decrud them about every 2 years.

I guess a plus living in a non-winter area I don't have to worry about it much but I still miss the snow wheeling!

New calipers and brake kit working well? I'm hoping my brake kit shows up soon :thumb:

The kit has been working well now that the calipers are functioning properly.

It was nice living in San Diego for a few years. It was a lot easier on the entire Jeep...well maybe not the dessert wheeling. That sand got into everything. Probably not as corrosive as the salt up here.