Pro Rock 44 Shopping List Advice

bthomas

bthomas

Member
I have a 2012 2dr Sport Auto with a 2.5 inch lift and 35" MTR-K's. In a moment of bad decision making a few months ago I picked up a pair of Rubi 44's w/4.10's complete, caliper to caliper with only a few hundred miles on them. I haven't done anything other than put them under the Jeep for a few thousand miles, no mods, haven't even wired the lockers yet. I'm now going to pull them back out this weekend, (putting my sport 30/44 back in) and try to re sell them for what I have in them, and replace with a non rubi PR44 & and ARB in the rear of my sport 44. It might be overkill for how I wheel my Jeep at this point, but I shouldn't have to worry about much about failures, and I would have a good base to build on and grow with.

I'm looking at a PR44 from Northridge, but they only build them with RCV's now. I know I've read a few guys don't care for them, as it can make the diff the weak link, but I'm unsure if that was with a 1310 or 1350 set up, or on what size tire. I spoke to Dynatrac and Northridge and they think the RCV's, 35's and a 1310 shaft is a good match. I know EVO will build them with Chromo's instead. The price works out to be a few hundred more from EVO with Chromo's vs. Northridge with RCV's. Dyna direct was around the same price as EVO, but plus shipping.

Dyna also recommended I go with the unlimited as I'm probably going to change my springs/shocks later on to EVO 3" plush rides.

At this point my shopping list is this,

Dyna PR44 w/ARB, pro steers, 1310 yoke, & ??? axles, still deciding on 4.56 vs 4.88.
Adam's 1310
Synergy adjustable LCA's
Synergy front track bar
ARB 30 spline rear on my non rubi rear 44, stock axle shafts for a bit, then chromo's?
And a sweet Dyna diff cover for the rear!
I already have an ARB CMKA12 compressor under hood that has the locker manifold and all switch wiring. I had air lockers in mind when I put that in, then got sidetracked I guess.

My future plans might now include 37's, but that is still a BIG maybe to even doubtful. After I recoup from this I will do a 1310 & arms on the rear, then probably start redoing my lift w/EVO 3" stuff. My Jeep is my DD, so I don't really beat on it, just want to be confident in driving it back home at the end of the day. Being broken in the middle of nowhere with my wife and daughter would be a bad day for me...pretty sure about that!
Does anyone have any suggestions or anything I'm missing for now? I have a really bad habit of doing stuff twice, and trying to save a few bucks up front and I'm tired of doing that. I'm going to bite the bullet, pay once, cry once, and be confident I did the right thing. I'm sorry this was a little long, just trying to give good info, so I can get good info, Thanks for the help all! :beer:

Billy
 
tastethebeast

tastethebeast

Member
Everything sounds good except you said 37s are a big maybe or probably a no. Why spend all that money on new axles if you already have 44s? You should be safe running 4.88s with gussets on 35s. I have run a rear 44 (locked) and a front open 30 with no issues for 3 years. I don't beat on my Jeep too hard just like you. My personal opinion would be to put money into a solid suspension system and new driveshafts before touching the axles. Coil overs will be my next big mod because the ride and performance are amazing! I dunno if you have a manual or auto, but 4.10 gears and a 6 speed work great for me for the time being.
 
bthomas

bthomas

Member
tastethebeast said:
Everything sounds good except you said 37s are a big maybe or probably a no. Why spend all that money on new axles if you already have 44s? You should be safe running 4.88s with gussets on 35s. I have run a rear 44 (locked) and a front open 30 with no issues for 3 years. I don't beat on my Jeep too hard just like you. My personal opinion would be to put money into a solid suspension system and new driveshafts before touching the axles. Coil overs will be my next big mod because the ride and performance are amazing! I dunno if you have a manual or auto, but 4.10 gears and a 6 speed work great for me for the time being.
Click to expand...

My thinking is this... I know a catastrophic housing break is fairly unlikely, I know that a bent housing is a real possibility, as is locker failure on a non serviceable locker. If any of those were to happen, I'd have wasted a good chunk of money that could have gone towards the PR build. I don't want to say that 37's are totally off the table, just not likely anytime soon, I just put new tires on last month. But, I'd like to not close the door on that possibility. I have an auto, the 4.10's were good, but left me wanting just a little more pick up as it hit 2nd gear and sometimes in OD up a grade before it would downshift. Coil overs are pretty sweet I'm sure!

Thanks, Billy
 
10frank9

10frank9

Web Wheeler
If you have a an auto tranny on a 3.6 might I suggest running 5.13's if you plan on 37's? It will get you more of a stock feel and more get up and go. I'm still running 4.10s on mine with 37's and can't wait to regear. 4.88's if you plan on running 35's.
 
Tanner505

Tanner505

New member
10frank9 said:
If you have a an auto tranny on a 3.6 might I suggest running 5.13's if you plan on 37's? It will get you more of a stock feel and more get up and go. I'm still running 4.10s on mine with 37's and can't wait to regear. 4.88's if you plan on running 35's.
Click to expand...

I run 4.56 on my 13 auto with 35s and it feels alot better than the 4.10s and 35s
 
tastethebeast

tastethebeast

Member
So basically you want to sell the 44 and upgrade to the PR before you have a locker or housing issue? That makes sense. Better safe than sorry! I agree with what a lot of people say about 5.13s. I think an auto and 37s work perfectly with that gear ratio.
 
bthomas

bthomas

Member
10frank9 said:
If you have a an auto tranny on a 3.6 might I suggest running 5.13's if you plan on 37's? It will get you more of a stock feel and more get up and go. I'm still running 4.10s on mine with 37's and can't wait to regear. 4.88's if you plan on running 35's.
Click to expand...


Tanner505 said:
I run 4.56 on my 13 auto with 35s and it feels alot better than the 4.10s and 35s
Click to expand...

Yup, I've had a lot of suggestions for 4.88's with 35's


tastethebeast said:
So basically you want to sell the 44 and upgrade to the PR before you have a locker or housing issue? That makes sense. Better safe than sorry! I agree with what a lot of people say about 5.13s. I think an auto and 37s work perfectly with that gear ratio.
Click to expand...

Yes sir, that's the plan. I haven't done anything to them yet, so I figure this is a good time to try and sell them, while they're still new and worth something to some one. I will have a Fr & Rr set of Rubi 44's for sale by next weekend at the latest.
 
bthomas

bthomas

Member
Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on front RCV's vs Cromo and rear 30 vs 35 spline with 35's and 1310 solid joint drive shafts?
Still thinking 37's are a really big maybe.

Thanks again everyone!

Billy
 
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07JKSahara

New member
bthomas said:
Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on front RCV's vs Cromo and rear 30 vs 35 spline with 35's and 1310 solid joint drive shafts?
Still thinking 37's are a really big maybe.

Thanks again everyone!

Billy
Click to expand...

I pulled some RCVs out this week from an axle and it was a massive inconvenience. I might be incompetent, but pulling them On a trail would suck. However, the regular u joint shafts slipped right in. I might get crap for this, but it's my 2 pennies...
 
bthomas

bthomas

Member
07JKSahara said:
I pulled some RCVs out this week from an axle and it was a massive inconvenience. I might be incompetent, but pulling them On a trail would suck. However, the regular u joint shafts slipped right in. I might get crap for this, but it's my 2 pennies...
Click to expand...

That's more than my 2 pennies worth of experience with RCV's. Was it a problem getting the boot to release so you could pull the axle? I see on the install video that you have to put the boot behind the knuckle, then slide the shaft in through the boot and get it to seat on the CV. Thanks!
 
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07JKSahara

New member
bthomas said:
That's more than my 2 pennies worth of experience with RCV's. Was it a problem getting the boot to release so you could pull the axle? I see on the install video that you have to put the boot behind the knuckle, then slide the shaft in through the boot and get it to seat on the CV. Thanks!
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Yes, the boot is like 1 mm too big to fit, which is fine, except the suction that the boot has is mighty strong...

They're def beefy, no question, but my frustration would have been amplified on a trail.
 
Northridge4x4

Northridge4x4

-
I pulled some RCVs out this week from an axle and it was a massive inconvenience. I might be incompetent, but pulling them On a trail would suck. However, the regular u joint shafts slipped right in. I might get crap for this, but it's my 2 pennies...
Click to expand...



They are more work to pull that a standard u-joint shaft that is for sure. If you carry the small boot tool with you its a piece of cake.
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
It's even worse if you happen to have the 35 spline ones. The orange boots don't come off the end of the shaft due to the taper. Have to pull knuckle off to remove them. Although the main point of them anyway is to not need trail repairs.

Sent from my Samsung S5 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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07JKSahara

New member
Northridge4x4 said:
They are more work to pull that a standard u-joint shaft that is for sure. If you carry the small boot tool with you its a piece of cake.
Click to expand...

Wait, how the hell does the tool work? I stared at it like a jackass for a minute then moved on. I was not comprehending how it works....
 
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