Control Arms? Need opinions

JohnnyD

JohnnyD

New member
Guys, need some feedback.

Putting in an RK 2.5" Stock Mod on my 2014 2 door JKR

Going to be putting in Clayton front Lca's and rear uca's.

Question: is there a benefit of going with the full 8 links? If so what??

Money not really issue.

I try to subscribe to the KISS principle and want to keep things as simple as possible...

Opinions?

Btw: driveshafts and gears coming after....
 
noroad

noroad

New member
you dont even need to do control arms and drive shafts if you ar not planning on going over 2.5 inchs
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
No there is no need to do all 8 arms. All you really need is front lowers. If you do an aftermarket DS then you need rear uppers as well.
 
M

Mjay

New member
As others have said, there's not really a need to do them at that height. However you could benefit from the increased off road performance a Jonny joint or other similar joints offer.
 
JohnnyD

JohnnyD

New member
Tx guys , already have 35's and flats....noticed a large drop in power..well, large is relative...noticed a drop...believe 4.88's might be in order to regain the loss...

But to original topic ...I have known a few with the 2.5 who have had to replace drive shafts down the road ie<20k miles after lift, I am looking to do things once...

So, opinions are wait and see???
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
JohnnyD said:
Tx guys , already have 35's and flats....noticed a large drop in power..well, large is relative...noticed a drop...believe 4.88's might be in order to regain the loss...

But to original topic ...I have known a few with the 2.5 who have had to replace drive shafts down the road ie<20k miles after lift, I am looking to do things once...

So, opinions are wait and see???
Click to expand...

well, while you don't need all arms, IMO if you're going to do something do it right. I have all 8 arms and the difference in handling was noticeable.

When I installed my Clayton lift (coils, shocks, 8 arms, track bars) I only installed the coils, shocks, front lowers and rear uppers then went and had the 35's put on then drove around to see how it handled. while the ride was fine, once I installed the rest of the arms, track bars and got everything dialed in, the improved handling IMO is worth the extra cost.

I'm running 4.88's on my 3.8 auto and it made a huge difference, wish I hadn't waited so long to do the gears. You'll get the push to go 5.13 but I wanted a good daily driver and to be able to lock out OD when needed without pushing the rpms too high.

if you have the budget to do it, do it once and not piece meal.
 
steve_r2

steve_r2

New member
jeeeep said:
well, while you don't need all arms, IMO if you're going to do something do it right. I have all 8 arms and the difference in handling was noticeable.

When I installed my Clayton lift (coils, shocks, 8 arms, track bars) I only installed the coils, shocks, front lowers and rear uppers then went and had the 35's put on then drove around to see how it handled. while the ride was fine, once I installed the rest of the arms, track bars and got everything dialed in, the improved handling IMO is worth the extra cost.

I'm running 4.88's on my 3.8 auto and it made a huge difference, wish I hadn't waited so long to do the gears. You'll get the push to go 5.13 but I wanted a good daily driver and to be able to lock out OD when needed without pushing the rpms too high.

if you have the budget to do it, do it once and not piece meal.
Click to expand...

Very glad I did 4.88 as well. As I have a Sahara 5.13 wasn't even on the cards. Workshop did push for me to go 4.56 but after chatting with the manager even he admitted he wished he had gone 4.88 instead of 4.56 on his 3.8.
 
Havoc40

Havoc40

New member
cozdude said:
No there is no need to do all 8 arms. All you really need is front lowers. If you do an aftermarket DS then you need rear uppers as well.
Click to expand...

I've been putting together my lift kit part list for the last couple months. I had planned on adding front and rear JE Reel 1350's when I do the EVO Pro Stage 1 kit, which comes with front lowers. This is the 1st time I've read that you "need" to do the rear uppers just because of an aftermarket shaft. Is it due to the double cardan and vibrations? I understand dialing in the pinion angle and I plan on adding Currie rear uppers shortly after the lift anyway. If they're really needed with the aftermarket shaft, I'll just hold back on installing the rear DS until I pick up the uppers. Just trying to learn :)
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Havoc40 said:
I've been putting together my lift kit part list for the last couple months. I had planned on adding front and rear JE Reel 1350's when I do the EVO Pro Stage 1 kit, which comes with front lowers. This is the 1st time I've read that you "need" to do the rear uppers just because of an aftermarket shaft. Is it due to the double cardan and vibrations? I understand dialing in the pinion angle and I plan on adding Currie rear uppers shortly after the lift anyway. If they're really needed with the aftermarket shaft, I'll just hold back on installing the rear DS until I pick up the uppers. Just trying to learn :)
Click to expand...

Yes it's because of the double cardan and vibrations.
 
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