Issue after Winch/Fog Light install

jbaskin28

New member
So today I installed my winch and my dually fog lights. Wired everything up, and everything worked like it should. Except the ignition...

Kept playing with it, and its at the point where I can disconnect both negative terminals (I have a dual battery set up), reconnect them, and the jeep fires right up.

The winch was pretty straight forward, I didn't have to tinker with anything in the stock wiring.

For the Fog Lights, I set up a relay so that they would fire with the steering column switch, and not do the strobe thing when they are off that I have read about.

Positive lead for the lights went to pint 87.
Stock Positive lead went to pin 86.
Ground from Battery went to Pin 85
Fused Positive from Battery went to pin 30.

I used one relay PER light. (should I have run only one relay for both lights?)

Now on the wiring grounds. The light grounds went to their own grounding point on the body.
The ground from the stock wiring, I didn't know what to do with. Right now, it is spliced in with fog light grounds.

If I disconnect both negative terminals and reconnect them, the jeep will fire up. The only things I have connected to my main battery is the jeeps negative/positive leads, one ground wire, a positive lead to the solenoid on the main battery side.
The Aux battery has the leads for the winch (+/-) and all accessory wiring, and the aux battery lead from the solenoid.
If I connect a negative lead from the main to the aux battery, the jeep won't start at all. no negative terminal lead connecting them, will start after the disconnect/reconnect.

That's as much information as I can think to give on what I did today. Really looking for help on figuring out why i can't start every time.

Thanks for any help!
 

toxicwaste29

New member
So when you disconnect and reconnect the leads the jeep starts on its own or you still need to turn the key and all?
 

jbaskin28

New member
I still have to turn the key. But its a one shot deal. If I turn off the jeep, I have to repeat the process.
 

bthomas

Member
I went and checked my wiring, as it was about 6 months ago I did mine and I can't remember what I had for breakfast this morning!
My stock fog circuit now goes to the relay to fire the D2's. Stock positive goes to term 86, that is the trigger. Stock negative goes to term 85, that is ground for the relay. Power from the battery goes through a 15a fuse to term 87, this should be 12v in. Term 30 is 12v out to the D2's, which are then wired in parallel to so as to both run off the one relay. This is how the relay was wired from Rigid, all I did was to re purpose the trigger wire from there included switch. I think terms 87 & 30 are technically backwards at this point, it still works as it just makes/breaks the positive leg. Usually the positive is fed into a relay on the fixed/common side, and fed out trough the normally open side. I hope you were able to make sense of what I posted here. I'm thinking maybe having the stock fog negative going back to ground might be freaking out the TIPM. I know the canbus system is freakishly sensitive. Also, IMHO, I would only use one relay to keep things simple, two is overkill. The less terminations you have the better. Less chances for trouble later on, like loose/faulty connections, etc; Hope this helps. Let me know if I can be of any more help.

Billy
 
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jbaskin28

New member
Haven't changed anything, but the jeep started 8/10 times today. If it comes back and won't start again I'll swap it out. Otherwise it can wait until the weekend when I add my teraflex speed bumps.
 

bthomas

Member
Stick fog neg vs battery neg shouldn't really be an issue. All grounds should be solid. You could try a sep gnd wire instead.

The relay should fire either way, your right. What concerned me about the OP, was he tied the stock fog neg into a chassis ground with the dually's. They way I see it, that stock neg has to ground a device somewhere as the stock fogs don't have a direct chassis ground, that whole circuit comes out of the TIPM and is PWM.
I'd think that could mess with the canbus somehow. Maybe. I could be wrong.
 

jbaskin28

New member
I used your wiring diagram, bthomas. When I got done, had no power.. after a short trouble shooting run, I found that all 4 terminal posts on both batteries were loose. (in the instance, the posts are the added bolt on posts that allow ring terminals to be attached.) The main battery positive was the worst, the wing nut could have rattled off it was so loose.

Needless to say, I wrenched down the terminal posts, tightened the wing nuts enough to get me over to lowe's and swapped out ring nuts for a hex nut and lock washer. Tightened them down pretty good as well.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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