Question about tires, suspension and engine torque.

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Cavscout263

New member
So I have been researching online and on the forums. I am getting so many mixed answers, so I just wanted to get a good final answer. So I have a stock 2011 Jeep wrangler unlimited Sahara. I want to put a rough country 3.25" suspension lift, with 35"x12.5 on 16 or 17" rims. I have been reading that if I do that I might need to get the engine retorqued to be able to turn and handle and also I general be able to get the right amount of power. Can anyone give me a clear answer or explain what I need to do this or is there something better more sufficient to do with out draining my bank account to $0? Sorry if this is not clear. I just want to be a million percent sure this is the right stuff.


Thanks Chris.
 
ClarksAdventures

ClarksAdventures

New member
By re torque, I'm assuming you mean regearing?

And it all depends on what gears you currently have.

You either have 3.21 or 3.73. You'll notice a little power loss without the regear. Especially with 3.21's
Most guys will suggest a regear especially with the older 3.8.

I have 35's with the new motor and 4.10's, and I can't wait for 4.88's
 
hudginsja

hudginsja

New member
I'm guessing by retorqued you mean re gear. By adding larger tires you will lose some power. The only way to gain that back is to re gear your axles. Well, it's at least the easiest way
 
MedixJK

MedixJK

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Cavscout263 said:
So I have been researching online and on the forums. I am getting so many mixed answers, so I just wanted to get a good final answer. So I have a stock 2011 Jeep wrangler unlimited Sahara. I want to put a rough country 3.25" suspension lift, with 35"x12.5 on 16 or 17" rims. I have been reading that if I do that I might need to get the engine retorqued to be able to turn and handle and also I general be able to get the right amount of power. Can anyone give me a clear answer or explain what I need to do this or is there something better more sufficient to do with out draining my bank account to $0? Sorry if this is not clear. I just want to be a million percent sure this is the right stuff.


Thanks Chris.
Click to expand...

I believe what your referring too is the need to regear your diffs. Upgraded tires are not only heavier, but taller. This in turn alters the distance from your axle shaft to the ground, altering torque and leverage. And it can be a very noticeable loss of low end power. Do you know what diff gear are in your jeep? With 35s youll probably want to be running somewhere between a 4.10 and a 4.88.

Edit: looks like we all chimed in at the same time lol
 
Gadget

Gadget

Caught the Bug
Also consider getting a programmer to set the transmission and speedometer to the bigger tires.
 
dillard09

dillard09

New member
So just as the others have said I believe you are talking about regearing your axles. Since you have a 4x4 you will want to do both axles if you do regear. You do not have to regear when you go up to 35s but your jeep will be a little sluggish and feel like it has lost some power. You do not have to regear and get lift and tires and save some money until you have enough for the regear. It is not required for a lift and tires.
 
C

Cavscout263

New member
Yeah that is what I meant. Regeared. Is this something that I have to take to a professional or what do I need to get that done?
 
dillard09

dillard09

New member
Cavscout263 said:
Yeah that is what I meant. Regeared. Is this something that I have to take to a professional or what do I need to get that done?
Click to expand...

Are you putting you lift on? How mechanical are you? Do you know how to set backlash? Pinion depth? Preload bearings? I would just let a professional handle it!
 
REKLESS-RED

REKLESS-RED

New member
It depends on what your doing with your jeep. You do not need to re-gear with a lift and 35s if you are comfortable not being the fastest of the line or a little sluggish. If your planning on doing some quality offroading I would suggest moving up to 4.88s, local shops will do the work for 500 an axle and then the cost of the gears on top of that. My only other suggestion is recalibrate your speedo and tachometer to match up with the size of tire you now have. I hope this helped.
 
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Cavscout263

New member
What would be the best size lift and tires for a weekend offroading warrior and not cost me to read gear my axels and engine etc...?
 
REKLESS-RED

REKLESS-RED

New member
Cavscout263 said:
What would be the best size lift and tires for a weekend offroading warrior and not cost me to read gear my axels and engine etc...?
Click to expand...

Lets get this straight, you do not have to do anything with the engine...

you can run what ever you would like for lift and tires without re-gearing. the bigger you go the faster you might break stuff and have to replace the entire axle...

But for a weekend warrior, you would do just fine running 35s on a 2.5 inch lift and keep it as a daily driver. if your going to start getting heavy into offroading re-gearing will be necessary. My opinion is to get the lift you want 2.5 inches up to 4.5 inches and throw some 35s on it. Then do what every jeeper knows about, run it till it breaks, then replace it with something better.
 
MedixJK

MedixJK

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REKLESS-RED said:
Lets get this straight, you do not have to do anything with the engine...

you can run what ever you would like for lift and tires without re-gearing.
Click to expand...

True, but this going to be on the 3.8l correct? Even w 3.73s, a 35 is going to be borderline unbearable.
 
REKLESS-RED

REKLESS-RED

New member
MedixJK said:
True, but this going to be on the 3.8l correct? Even w 3.73s, a 35 is going to be borderline unbearable.
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Good point. I didnt think about what he had under the hood. His profile states a 2011 (3.8L), so im with you on this one, it will be boarderline unbearable with 3.73s. it would feel like he's got the power of a governed golf cart...
 
C

Cavscout263

New member
its a 3.8L v6. So I want some longevity out of it. I understand that it can break eventually. Would 2.5" and 34s still require a regear? Also this gearing is completely stock. So 3.21 as far as I am tracking.
 
MedixJK

MedixJK

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REKLESS-RED said:
Good point. I didnt think about what he had under the hood. His profile states a 2011 (3.8L), so im with you on this one, it will be boarderline unbearable with 3.73s. it would feel like he's got the power of a governed golf cart...
Click to expand...

Bahaha. Too much boat, not enough paddle. Id say 285/70s on a 2" budget boost would be a good fit. As mentioned, a flashcal or procal would be nice for an auto.
 
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