Am I doing this right?

GregMort13

GregMort13

Caught the Bug
Alright guys, so in case not everyone knows, i now have a 2015 tank 2 door. It has a manual transmission. Before i traded my 4 door in for a 2 door, i had already purchased the 4" evo enforcer kit with the drag link flip, slabs and 37" toyos and the evo protek system.

I am new to the two door would and want to make sure this would work for me via your guys knowledge. I love the look of quit staring's 2 door with the 4" plushrides so i decided to keep the 4 inch instead of getting 3" coils. From my understanding this is going to net me about 5" of lift. As of right now, the jeep is a COMPLETELY STOCK SPORT. (Have Rubi Rails)

This is my dilemma. I have 1700 bucks to put on my jeep.

NOTE: Jeep will only be driven on the road until i feel I'm set up enough to do light runs at rausch.

At first i was thinking to just use the stock driveshafts for as long as i can. But now I'm thinking i should at least do the front to a 1350.

Just want to get people opinions on where i go from here.

DS's and adj upper rear arms?

Just the Front DS and a stubby bumper and sliders?

HELP!
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
if you had a 4dr you could run it with just a front ds, but.. with a 2dr and that much lift I'm pretty sure you'll need both.
2dr guys will chime in soon and confirm
 
GregMort13

GregMort13

Caught the Bug
Yeah i know of that much. Im thinking maybe i could do 1310's front and back and RockKrawler adj. rear uppers and i would still have enough for a front bumper.

I like to wheel but being in NJ honestly I'm more of a trail ride climb over smaller rocks kinda guy. I don't ever really plan on trying to climb up mountains lmao
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
i have a 1310 in front and 1350 rear with ATX and BFG KO2 37's. ran that in Moab no issues.
IMO I'd run a 1350 rear over a 1310 even if trails are mild.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
GregMort13 said:
Alright guys, so in case not everyone knows, i now have a 2015 tank 2 door. It has a manual transmission. Before i traded my 4 door in for a 2 door, i had already purchased the 4" evo enforcer kit with the drag link flip, slabs and 37" toyos and the evo protek system.

I am new to the two door would and want to make sure this would work for me via your guys knowledge. I love the look of quit staring's 2 door with the 4" plushrides so i decided to keep the 4 inch instead of getting 3" coils. From my understanding this is going to net me about 5" of lift. As of right now, the jeep is a COMPLETELY STOCK SPORT. (Have Rubi Rails)

This is my dilemma. I have 1700 bucks to put on my jeep.

NOTE: Jeep will only be driven on the road until i feel I'm set up enough to do light runs at rausch.

At first i was thinking to just use the stock driveshafts for as long as i can. But now I'm thinking i should at least do the front to a 1350.

Just want to get people opinions on where i go from here.

DS's and adj upper rear arms?

Just the Front DS and a stubby bumper and sliders?

HELP!
Click to expand...

Being that you have a 2015, you will still have your front shaft tear it's slip shaft boot on the exhaust cross over when flexing on the trail. Sure, you could run exhaust spacers but, that won't fix the extreme angle of your shaft and the constant pinch of your cv boot at the output shaft. If you're going to address only one shaft, I would do the front first. The rear will last for a while or at least, long enough for you to save up for a new rear shaft and adjustable upper arms to set the pinion angle.

jeeeep said:
if you had a 4dr you could run it with just a front ds, but.. with a 2dr and that much lift I'm pretty sure you'll need both.
2dr guys will chime in soon and confirm
Click to expand...

Technically, you really should do both but you can get by for a while with just the front.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I would NOT recommend running a 1310 rear shaft. I don't even really recommend a 1310 in the front but if you have to run one, the front is where it should go.
 
JAGS

JAGS

Hooked
wayoflife said:
I would NOT recommend running a 1310 rear shaft. I don't even really recommend a 1310 in the front but if you have to run one, the front is where it should go.
Click to expand...

Maybe a dumb question, but it's been said the front is actually a 1330. Is this the same for a rear 44...is it also a 1330??
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JAGS said:
Maybe a dumb question, but it's been said the front is actually a 1330. Is this the same for a rear 44...is it also a 1330??
Click to expand...

From the factory, your front shaft comes with one 1330 u-joint and it is located where your shaft attaches to the axle. The joint at the output shaft and both factory rear joints are rzeppa joints. They are CV joints and totally different than a u-joint.
 
JAGS

JAGS

Hooked
wayoflife said:
From the factory, your front shaft comes with one 1330 u-joint and it is located where your shaft attaches to the axle. The joint at the output shaft and both factory rear joints are rzeppa joints. They are CV joints and totally different than a u-joint.
Click to expand...

Cool. Thanks.

Lol. Like I said, maybe a dumb question. Ha ha. Learned something new today.
 
hinrichs

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
From personal expierence, I would run a 1350 rear and not a 1310...I have been lucky with the 1310 but I would like to upgrade soon just incase on the rear. Only broke the rear once but that wasnt fun at all, I was wedged tight between a tree however. Going to be a lot of lift with the 4" but thats what you seem to like. I have the 3" and couldnt be any happier with the lift I have with the 37s. Also I am running adjustable front lowers and rear uppers.
 
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