Heavy Duty Axle Swap, Maybe not.

Jtmw

New member
Hello everyone, I am in the process of planning axels for my JK. My original plan is to get a junkyard 60 front / 14 bolt rear set up and use the Artec kit for the swap fill them with ARB's and go from there.

My question is I know new locked D44's come up here every once in a while. I'm trying to decide what to do. I want to make fully overbuilt axles, and be able to get nasty when the time comes. I know their is no comparison to D44's and one tons. I also understand the Dynatrac is a widely used and for good reason. I personally would just rather go one of these two routes. One tons and spend more money, or get lucky and find some 44 take off's that arent too abused fully loaded and ready to go for a much smaller price.

Question is am i overthinking and over building for what I want to do with the one tons?

I want to run a minimum 37 ( the tire size that will start out with regardless of choice ) and be locked loaded and ready to go to hit what i want when i want and not worry about getting home. Granted I dont have a heavy foot and am past the stage in my life where I am going to do Black Triple 5 star upside diamonds. What are some thoughts?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
What you need to know is that a factory Rubicon Dana 44 is pretty much a Dana 44 in name only. The axle tubes, end forgings and knuckles are still just Dana 30's and so really, the only things that make it a 44 is the ring & pinion and axle shafts. This is great being that they are in fact what you're wanting for strength more than anything but, just something to be aware of. Also, the factory e-lockers aren't really anything to write home about. They are weak and prone to failure if you use it hard enough. That being said, you can probably find one for sale for about a grand and they do come up all the time.
 

Jtmw

New member
What you need to know is that a factory Rubicon Dana 44 is pretty much a Dana 44 in name only. The axle tubes, end forgings and knuckles are still just Dana 30's and so really, the only things that make it a 44 is the ring & pinion and axle shafts. This is great being that they are in fact what you're wanting for strength more than anything but, just something to be aware of. Also, the factory e-lockers aren't really anything to write home about. They are weak and prone to failure if you use it hard enough. That being said, you can probably find one for sale for about a grand and they do come up all the time.

Thanks for the quick response. If it were you and you had these two options what would you do? I guess the question after this is, is the thousand bucks worth it? Where I'm located I've got the axles needed for the swap for about 1250, and with lockers and gearing and the labor, it certainly adds up. Is having one tons worth the hassle?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks for the quick response. If it were you and you had these two options what would you do? I guess the question after this is, is the thousand bucks worth it? Where I'm located I've got the axles needed for the swap for about 1250, and with lockers and gearing and the labor, it certainly adds up. Is having one tons worth the hassle?

Being where you are, it might be worth it to just get a factory 44 as you can save quite a bit but, I'd make sure it's one that isn't already bent and I really wouldn't pay more than $1200 and that's for a relatively new one. I'm not a fan of junkyard axles and so if it were just me, I would play with what I got until I could afford a better upgrade or broke what I had and needed to get something better. But again, that's just me.
 

Jtmw

New member
Being where you are, it might be worth it to just get a factory 44 as you can save quite a bit but, I'd make sure it's one that isn't already bent and I really wouldn't pay more than $1200 and that's for a relatively new one. I'm not a fan of junkyard axles and so if it were just me, I would play with what I got until I could afford a better upgrade or broke what I had and needed to get something better. But again, that's just me.

Cool, and I agree. I'm just to that point i'd like to regear and lock up. I'd hate to throw money at the D30
 

Spudcannons

New member
Cool, and I agree. I'm just to that point i'd like to regear and lock up. I'd hate to throw money at the D30

That's where I was a couple months ago. I just ran the D30 into the ground then went with Dynatracs. Break it then rebuild it! :thumb:
 

Jtmw

New member
That's where I was a couple months ago. I just ran the D30 into the ground then went with Dynatracs. Break it then rebuild it! :thumb:

haha that's just it! I have been spoiled by appropriate gearing offroad. I hatttteeeeee fighting my clutch to get over an obstacle.
 

Spudcannons

New member
haha that's just it! I have been spoiled by appropriate gearing offroad. I hatttteeeeee fighting my clutch to get over an obstacle.

The 1st gear starter trick seems to work very well if you don't mind abusing your starter!
 

jkwebbie

New member
I would go with junkyard axles, but thats just me because Dana 60 and 14 bolts are plentiful around me. Plus, I have family members and good friends that have their own auto shops that can help me with a swap whenever I decide to do so. But that's just my .02 buddy
 

Jtmw

New member
I would go with junkyard axles, but thats just me because Dana 60 and 14 bolts are plentiful around me. Plus, I have family members and good friends that have their own auto shops that can help me with a swap whenever I decide to do so. But that's just my .02 buddy

We do live in the land of tons of one tons. Its tempting.
 

Spudcannons

New member
I would go with junkyard axles, but thats just me because Dana 60 and 14 bolts are plentiful around me. Plus, I have family members and good friends that have their own auto shops that can help me with a swap whenever I decide to do so. But that's just my .02 buddy

Those are probably easier if you are doing a custom triangulated 4 link where you would change brackets from stock spots. If you don't do the labor or know someone I think the difference is only a thousand or so, a shop near me quoted that so I just got the Dynatracs with a warranty. Don't forget about the value of great customer service and warranty support!
 

jkwebbie

New member
Those are probably easier if you are doing a custom triangulated 4 link where you would change brackets from stock spots. If you don't do the labor or know someone I think the difference is only a thousand or so, a shop near me quoted that so I just got the Dynatracs with a warranty. Don't forget about the value of great customer service and warranty support!

You are right about that, but I know Artec makes some good control arm mounts and they aren't too expensive so you don't have to change your entire suspension set up if you do drop in some 1 tons. And Dynatrac is hands down the best in the industry but I'm pretty sure I can build Dana 60s front and rear for about the same as a ProRock 60 front. I know I don't have a warranty, but I know most of the companies I would choose for the internal parts will have warranties so that makes up for it a little bit.
 

07silverjk

New member
There has been a lot of problems with the Artec truss system for the JK junkyard swap. Things are not easily lined up and a lot of cutting and fitting is required.

Have you looked into the Mopar 60's?
 
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