Suspension parts

JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
I know my basics about all of the suspension parts, and I recently purchased a rock krawler stock mod 2.5 kit for my jk so I've got new coils, shocks, front track bar, and quick disconnects. Can anyone lead me into the right direction as what next components I should get next in order to make it more capable, and or ride smoother in general i'd assume LCAs but I'm not sure.
Thanks!
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
If you're unhappy with the quality of your ride, the problem resides in the spring rate of your coils. Long arms will not help this.
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
wayoflife said:
If you're unhappy with the quality of your ride, the problem resides in the spring rate of your coils. Long arms will not help this.
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Oh no I haven't even installed it yet just trying to gather information, that's good to know hopefully it will ride good! Or decent at least haha I'm not too picky. I've heard only quality reviews for Rock Krawler that's why I went with them though you guys did tell me the plush ride coils from evo are the most comfortable I got a deal on the rock krawler. Okay since all the ride quality lies in the coils how about what's the most important piece to increase flex? Would it be all control arms?
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
wayoflife said:
The length of your shocks will determine most of your flex - not your control arms.
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Okay so shocks restrict flex followed by whatever the tire hits or what else? Do people just get lower control arms and stuff to adjust caster? I believe that's the word I'm think of
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

-
Most of the time 4 doors only need front lowers for caster. 2 doors often also need rear uppers for pinion angle. The only real advantage to the other arms are more adjustability and stronger arms with better joints. But TBH the JK stock arms are pretty good compared to the stamped TJ ones.
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
jnabird333 said:
Most of the time 4 doors only need front lowers for caster. 2 doors often also need rear uppers for pinion angle. The only real advantage to the other arms are more adjustability and stronger arms with better joints. But TBH the JK stock arms are pretty good compared to the stamped TJ ones.
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That's good to know so I could do some decent wheeling with stock JK arms? I have a 2 door by the way.
 
metalic

metalic

Member
2.5 stock mod with bilsteins. I like the ride but some friends think it rides stiff. Everyone has a different ride they like. This is with stock arms but did tear the DS boot first te I flexed it.
 

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JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
metalic said:
2.5 stock mod with bilsteins. I like the ride but some friends think it rides stiff. Everyone has a different ride they like. This is with stock arms but did tear the DS boot first te I flexed it.
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Jesus that's a hell of a lot of flex, I've got the same lift sitting in my den. I'm guessing you have to have spring retainers so your springs stay in place?
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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My wife's 2-door has front lower and rear upper arms with the others being stock. While we wheel our 4dr more, her Jeep still sees plenty of trail action.

I have replaced the rear lowers a few times though from them getting bent or damaged on the trail. The good news is they are plentiful and cheap (usually free).

As far as ride goes... you are the only one that should really matter.
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
jnabird333 said:
My wife's 2-door has front lower and rear upper arms with the others being stock. While we wheel our 4dr more, her Jeep still sees plenty of trail action.

I have replaced the rear lowers a few times though from them getting bent or damaged on the trail. The good news is they are plentiful and cheap (usually free).

As far as ride goes... you are the only one that should really matter.
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I can imagine stock arms are pretty plentiful, and true I guess that's what it comes down to. I'm still waiting on a trackbar from northride and I'll put my lift on and see how she rides
 
metalic

metalic

Member
JakeJK said:
Jesus that's a hell of a lot of flex, I've got the same lift sitting in my den. I'm guessing you have to have spring retainers so your springs stay in place?
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No retainers. 2" of bumpstops. The RK springs are long and I don't have a problem with them coming unseated. Here's a shot of the rear in another spot that day.
 

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JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
metalic said:
No retainers. 2" of bumpstops. The RK springs are long and I don't have a problem with them coming unseated. Here's a shot of the rear in another spot that day.
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Welp looks like I'm gonna need flat fenders and 35s pretty soon hahaha
 
metalic

metalic

Member
JakeJK said:
Welp looks like I'm gonna need flat fenders and 35s pretty soon hahaha
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That's 35's. And cut fenders. Those tires have 3 to 4 thousand miles on them and I want 37's and another inch of bumps. I bought those when the wife was still daily driving it and we just bought a 2dr. For her
 
JakeJK

JakeJK

New member
metalic said:
That's 35's. And cut fenders. Those tires have 3 to 4 thousand miles on them and I want 37's and another inch of bumps. I bought those when the wife was still daily driving it and we just bought a 2dr. For her
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Sweet so I just need 2 inch bumpstops to run the 35s with cut fenders?
 
MedixJK

MedixJK

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JakeJK said:
Sweet so I just need 2 inch bumpstops to run the 35s with cut fenders?
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As a general rule of thumb, your bumps should be around the same size as your lift, gave or take a lil bit to prevent rubbing or bottoming out shocks/coils.
 
metalic

metalic

Member
This is the best pic I have sitting pretty. I just cut my fenders back more since that trip.
 

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