Reid knuckles

mcsjk

mcsjk

New member
What are the thoughts on Reid knuckles? Thinking about getting them, Prosteers, and probably Carolina Metal Masters tie rod. I currently still have my stock 30 but plan to move up to a 44 sooner than later and know that I can reuse the knuckles and prosteers with a 44.

Is it worth it to spend the money on new knuckles? Or would my money be better spent elsewhere?
 
OscarMike2.0

OscarMike2.0

New member
Don't bother with the ried knuckles. I wouldnt go with the prosteer ball joints until you switch to a 44. Stock tie rod is plenty strong but if you do decided you want to replace the currie one is the best out there. I also really like the new rock krawler one to though.
 
Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
mcsjk said:
What are the thoughts on Reid knuckles? Thinking about getting them, Prosteers, and probably Carolina Metal Masters tie rod. I currently still have my stock 30 but plan to move up to a 44 sooner than later and know that I can reuse the knuckles and prosteers with a 44.

Is it worth it to spend the money on new knuckles? Or would my money be better spent elsewhere?
Click to expand...

I have them. The tie rod relocation is nice. If you have the budget, go for it, but they are by no means necessary. O did mention they are orange. Very orange. They match the RCV shaft boots. So if you want an orange front end they got you covered.
 
mcsjk

mcsjk

New member
OscarMike2.0 said:
Don't bother with the ried knuckles. I wouldnt go with the prosteer ball joints until you switch to a 44. Stock tie rod is plenty strong but if you do decided you want to replace the currie one is the best out there. I also really like the new rock krawler one to though.
Click to expand...

How come regarding the prosteers? My understanding is they work with 30's and 44's so was thinking run them until I upgrade to a 44 and then pull them from the 30 and put them in the 44. Was actually thinking the same with the knuckles.

Spudcannons said:
I have them. The tie rod relocation is nice. If you have the budget, go for it, but they are by no means necessary. O did mention they are orange. Very orange. They match the RCV shaft boots. So if you want an orange front end they got you covered.
Click to expand...

That's another very good point I forgot to mention. I have not flipped my drag link yet and want to do that and the Reid knuckles would accomplish that as well.
 
OscarMike2.0

OscarMike2.0

New member
mcsjk said:
How come regarding the prosteers? My understanding is they work with 30's and 44's so was thinking run them until I upgrade to a 44 and then pull them from the 30 and put them in the 44. Was actually thinking the same with the knuckles.



That's another very good point I forgot to mention. I have not flipped my drag link yet and want to do that and the Reid knuckles would accomplish that as well.
Click to expand...

I don't think you can move ball joints from axle to axle (correct me if I am wrong). So therefore you would have to buy the ball joints again when you do a 44.

As for the draglink just buy a flip kit. Still is cheaper than the knuckles.
 
Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
OscarMike2.0 said:
I don't think you can move ball joints from axle to axle (correct me if I am wrong). So therefore you would have to buy the ball joints again when you do a 44.

As for the draglink just buy a flip kit. Still is cheaper than the knuckles.
Click to expand...

If you don't ruin them taking them out you can.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Orange knuckles are a total waste of money. You will still hit your tie rod on the trail. The money for one would be much better spent on a HD tie-rod. But, that's just my opinion.
 
mcsjk

mcsjk

New member
wayoflife said:
Orange knuckles are a total waste of money. You will still hit your tie rod on the trail. The money for one would be much better spent on a HD tie-rod. But, that's just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Sounds like my money may be better spent with the EVO drag link flip kit and Currie or CMM tie rod and prosteers.

With the EVO drag link flip, Northridge lists a normal kit and one for the PR44. If I ended up going PR instead of Rubi takeoff would I have to buy the flip kit again?
 
Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
mcsjk said:
Sounds like my money may be better spent with the EVO drag link flip kit and Currie or CMM tie rod and prosteers.

With the EVO drag link flip, Northridge lists a normal kit and one for the PR44. If I ended up going PR instead of Rubi takeoff would I have to buy the flip kit again?
Click to expand...

Nope you would reuse your current knuckles.
 
NM2012CherryJK

NM2012CherryJK

New member
mcsjk said:
Sounds like my money may be better spent with the EVO drag link flip kit and Currie or CMM tie rod and prosteers.

With the EVO drag link flip, Northridge lists a normal kit and one for the PR44. If I ended up going PR instead of Rubi takeoff would I have to buy the flip kit again?
Click to expand...

You would have to get a new bracket for the PR44 when you get it. Im in the same boat. Did the EVO Drag link flip, and I'm going to be getting a PR44 next year.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

-
OscarMike2.0 said:
I don't think you can move ball joints from axle to axle (correct me if I am wrong). So therefore you would have to buy the ball joints again when you do a 44.
Click to expand...

Spudcannons said:
If you don't ruin them taking them out you can.
Click to expand...

Removing them and not messing them up is only part of the issue. Ball Joints are a press fit. Each time you this job is done the material is deformed and the engagement will not be as secure as the time before.

Is it enough to matter? I don't know... but for that kind of money I would just put some HD Crown joints in and call it a day. Save the Pro-steers for a housing you plan to keep.


To the OP. I really don'y know enough about the orange knuckles, but they seem kinda pricey for the very little advantage they offer. I have also read where many experience reduced turning radius with them (no personal knowledge of this though).
 
Spudcannons

Spudcannons

New member
jnabird333 said:
Removing them and not messing them up is only part of the issue. Ball Joints are a press fit. Each time you this job is done the material is deformed and the engagement will not be as secure as the time before.

Is it enough to matter? I don't know... but for that kind of money I would just put some HD Crown joints in and call it a day. Save the Pro-steers for a housing you plan to keep.


To the OP. I really don'y know enough about the orange knuckles, but they seem kinda pricey for the very little advantage they offer. I have also read where many experience reduced turning radius with them (no personal knowledge of this though).
Click to expand...

They have adjustable steering stops. if you do not make them the right size they limit turning radius.
 
BigPrince

BigPrince

New member
I have them. Main reason is move the tierod up. You need to do a flip kit for the draglink with them. I haven't hit my tierod since moving to the Reids. it is definitely there and definitely can still get hit, I guess I just haven't.

I do not have any reduced steering with them. I'm happy with the purchase but it was after already doing the other things you mentioned.

I would also recommend not doing ball joints on the 30 unless you have to. Just rock the oem until you change housings. If you have to - throw some synergy's or cheaper ball joints in to get you by.

Reid%20knuckles%202.jpg


Reid%20Knuckles%201-2.jpg
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

-
Spudcannons said:
They have adjustable steering stops. if you do not make them the right size they limit turning radius.
Click to expand...

I should have clarified... What I've read is that even with the steering stops removed some have less turning than they had with their stock knuckles. This is third-hand though so I may not have the facts correct.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom