installed coilspacers

B

Bingobelle

Member
Hi

Just installed 1,75 inch coilspacers front and 0,75 rear.

Losened all the upper,lower controlarms bolt and trackbars bolt. Used a torque wrench when jeep was on ground and refastened all bolts at specified torque.

The old rubber isolator I put on top of the new spacer so frame-rubber isolator - coilspacer - spring.

All went smoth and nice but for what I can hear when driving from a complete stop I can hear a clonk sound sometimes. Is this normal? All stuff is put back in order and also done with the torque wrench when jeep was on ground.

Did use the old swaybar link arms. Is that okej with 1,75 inch lift front or should I look for new swaybar link arms front?

Was it correct to put the old rubber isoloator on top of the new cpilspacer in the front?

Thanks

Christian

By the way, rake is gone and looks real good. Now it is just the 33 all terain missing.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Bingobelle said:
Hi

Just installed 1,75 inch coilspacers front and 0,75 rear.

Losened all the upper,lower controlarms bolt and trackbars bolt. Used a torque wrench when jeep was on ground and refastened all bolts at specified torque.

The old rubber isolator I put on top of the new spacer so frame-rubber isolator - coilspacer - spring.

All went smoth and nice but for what I can hear when driving from a complete stop I can hear a clonk sound sometimes. Is this normal? All stuff is put back in order and also done with the torque wrench when jeep was on ground.

Did use the old swaybar link arms. Is that okej with 1,75 inch lift front or should I look for new swaybar link arms front?

Was it correct to put the old rubber isoloator on top of the new cpilspacer in the front?

Thanks

Christian

By the way, rake is gone and looks real good. Now it is just the 33 all terain missing.
Click to expand...

The rubber isolators are there just to create a buffer zone from the body and the coil. Without them you would just hear metal on metal. The new spacers act as that isolator so it's not necessary to add the stock ones back on. That could be your problem as the pucks prob are not sitting right in the perch both front and rear
 
hudginsja

hudginsja

New member
When I did my lift I put the rubber isolater on top of the coil. So coil spring, rubber, spacer, frame.

You might try double checking the torque on everything you loosened to do the job.

Good luck with your jeep
 
B

Bingobelle

Member
cozdude said:
The rubber isolators are there just to create a buffer zone from the body and the coil. Without them you would just hear metal on metal. The new spacers act as that isolator so it's not necessary to add the stock ones back on. That could be your problem as the pucks prob are not sitting right in the perch both front and rear
Click to expand...

In the rear it sits very nice with the old rubber isolator on top of the new coilspacer. They are cone shaped so about the rear I`ve no worries.

But the front. The old isolator have like a "valley" in the rubber that the spring was seated in. The spring sits very good on the new spacer but ( spring is located correct since I can see the end of the spring in that litle open in the springcap or what it now can be called in english ) I´m not sure if the new spacers sits good on the old isolator. Maybee it is better to have the old rubber under the new specer instead? I would like to keep the old rubber because the lift is perfect now. No rake.

What do you guys think about the swaybar end links? is stock ok with 1,75 inch lift?

Thanks.
 
animalhouse

animalhouse

New member
You may need longer front shocks, that clunk sound maybe the shocks extending all the way out, just a thought.
 
B

Bingobelle

Member
animalhouse said:
You may need longer front shocks, that clunk sound maybe the shocks extending all the way out, just a thought.
Click to expand...

This can happen on a straight and level tarmac road from zero km/hour to just walking human speed. Impossible that the shocks will extend all the way out.

Just found out that the rubicon express coilspacers actually are rebranded daystar spacers. They have the daystar part number ( MO 3758 ) . I also found a installing guide written by daystar and acording to that the old rubber isolator should sit on top of the new spacer like the way I did it.

I will retorque the bolts and see if the clonk sound will disapear. Maybee the swaybar just have to wear in a little because I used the stock swaybar end links.

Anyway, preciate all the advice from all of you!

Thanks
Christian
 
B

Bingobelle

Member
Since I asked this question and some guys tried to help out I think I´m obligated to write down what went wrong. Maybee it can help some others.

Since I live in sweden my torque wrench have a scale in nm and Kgm. The manual I was reading was written by aev and the torque where mesured in ft.lbs.

Somehow I messed it up and used the wrong converter so for example on the rear control arms I only used about 60 nm. 125 ft.lbs is about 169 nm. So I´ve only used about 1/3 of the torque that is specified. No wonder that I can hear a "clonk" sound.

Will retorque everything in the morning but I´m very possitive this will cure the clonk sound.

Now one last thing. I asume ft.lb is the same as ft.lbs?

so 125 ft.lbs must be 169,48 nm.

Cheers
 
Tree Frog

Tree Frog

Member
Look for the app. "Convert pad."
It has helped me a lot with all sorts of conversions.

AEV only has you use the factory rubber isolator in the front and not in the rear.
This is on their 2 inch spacer lift.

Retourque and bet that will solve the clunk.
Drive it for a while and re tourque again.
 
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