Help! ESC and ABS light on start up after install of EVO Double D Pro

I know this “I just installed a lift and my ESC light is on” stuff is getting real old.

So to start I have read everything I could find on this subject.
I do know about having the steering wheel centered with the tires pointing strait being set by the drag link.

Used two 6 foot long pieces of 1 inch tube strapped to the tires extended out so you could really tell if the wheels were strait. Took my time and used several methods to really get the steering wheel strait with the tires.
Pretty confidante that it is really close. I don’t know just how sensitive it is but, real close.

Upon startup I turned on the key and waited a minute as I had removed and drained the fuel tank and wanted the fuel pump to charge without trying to start it up too soon.

As soon as the engine started and all the other light’s went off the ESC and ABS remained on.
I even reached down and pressed the switch for ESC, it had no effect.

This vehicle has not been moved out of park and the parking brake is still set. Not driven at all.

Note that I had removed the brake lines and replaced them with the longer stainless braided ones supplied.
Used a vacuum bleeder and tried to make sure I got all the air out.
It seems like I have got good pedal. Have not driven it to confirm brakes at this time.
Have read something about an ABS bleed being done only at a dealership?

Does anybody have any ideas?

Please help if you think you may have an answer. Thank you!

Maybe one of your wheel sensors are not plugged in. Trace the lines back. There are several connectors along the frame, axles, and the backing plates at the wheels. Good luck.

If your steering wheel was all messed up during the lift install it could have messed with it. Drive it around the block and it will go off if everything is normal.

It took over ten miles for my lights to turn off after I had the steering wheel out of whack.

Same thing happened when I replaced my unit bearing.... Drive it around a while, mine cleared after a 1/2 mile

I did have a wheel sensor get tugged on pretty hard as it seems the lines leading to the brake baking plate are pretty short. Will check out.

Overlander, I did have the battery disconnected through the entire install, However I did start the engine up to see if the steering wheel was being affected by the power steering pump and the wheel was still of some at that time. Yes I guess I do need to take it out and see one of it clears and two if my brakes are bled correctly.

Thank you.

UPDATE
Thank you so much you guys. I was so bummed out last night. Just shy of 2 months work and really watched my work closely only to have this little problem crop up.

After I read these post I went back down and started to back it up only to hear really loud metallic clicks and pops then to see my transfer case lever jumping back and forth.
Oh started remembering reading a post about a little bracket that needs to be trimmed. No Adams does not mention that in their videos. Got under there and sure enough it was the problem. No way was I going to pull the drive shaft just for that. I did pull the transfer case skid back off but I had nothing I could get in there with. Sawsall with a long blade=nope,
Right angle die grinder with a cut off wheel=nope, Dremel with a cut off wheel=nope, so I used a small mini hacksaw.

Had to go to work today so Jeep had to sit. Tonight I fired it up and backed out of the garage. Quiet and smooth. :wings: Went to the car wash as she had about 2 pounds of grinding grit all over her. Must have only went 1/4 mile and the lights turned off.

Washed her down and then went for a short cruise. 10-20-30-40 No problems. Rode smooth. Went over the railroad tracks kind of fast and it was just barely noticeable.
Steering wheel was strait/ flat.

So far so good.

Okay time to drink some beer :beer: Virtual rounds on me.